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Post by Riker on Apr 4, 2015 12:15:03 GMT
Hello all, I would like to share with you my short story with HF X-Can v3 and successful modification. For a long time I was looking for some good amp to my Sennheiser HD 650. On the internet I found a lot of information saying that this amp perfectly suited to them. Amp I bought about a month ago on eBay. In fact, the sound was nice, but to be honest I was expecting something a bit better. Surely it was not WOW effect I was hoping for. In my opinion, did not have good dynamics and the sound was "heavy". At the time as I was looking for a amplifier, I found Rock-Grotto site and this forum full of excellent advice. Shortly after receiving amplifier and the first listening experience I started for modifications. According to the recommendations, I used these components: 10x 2200 uF Panasonic FC 50V, 4x 100 uF Panasonic FC 25V (not 25V but 50V - see below), 2x 10 uF Nichicon Muse, 2x 1000 uF Nichicon Muse 25V, 7x UF4007, some bypass caps, a few heatsinks. I could not find a lower voltage capacitors but from what I know it does not much matter. The whole process ran smoothly. Soldering new components was pure pleasure  . Speaking truthfully difference in sound is huge. A very pleasant surprise, to be honest it's not the same amplifier. While listening to favorite songs, there are many more details that were previously hidden... I would like to thank Mike Grierson (PinkFloyd) for sharing your valuable knowledge and help. Mike gave me interesting ideas for further modifications and explained some of the issues. In the future, I'm going to continue to experiment with different components. For now I enjoyed very much  . Best regards, Krzysztof      |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 4, 2015 21:42:41 GMT
Nice job! Your reference point ( www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-can-v3-tweaks.htm ) is a GOOD ten years out of date. I haven't updated that website, at all, in the past 10 years. Remove the 100uF / 25V caps and replace with 35V / 100uF types. I don't know where you got the 25V thing from but can assure you that "35V" rated caps are what you should be employing with regard to the 100uF caps. I really must get round to updating www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-can-v3-tweaks.htm one of these days (forgotten password / Can't be arsed) Mike. |
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Post by Riker on Apr 5, 2015 8:23:54 GMT
Hello Mike, You're right, I made a mistake in the description. Thank you for correcting me. I used 4 x 100 uF 50V Panasonic FC (picture below). I corrected my part list. I realize that your site is a bit outdated but still this is a huge change Krzysztof.  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 5, 2015 20:33:40 GMT
Hi Krzysztof, I would love to update the original website but, in doing so, it would take away part of it's charm "for me"..... as far as I'm concerned, it captures a moment in time and although it appears outdated and cheesy it means something to me. Far better to leave it "as is" and use this joint as a medium for any "updates" or "news"..... I (personally) think it's quite refreshing to see an original "amateur" website in its original state of play and absolutely detest these "up to the minute" / same format / no character websites that seem to spring up every 30 seconds like a "pop up shop". 50V is the way to go (100uF caps) 25V would have been too "close to the bone" for comfort. Damned nice job Krzysztof, enjoy the music sir All the best, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 5, 2015 20:35:16 GMT
Great photos too, thanks for sharing.
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 5, 2015 20:48:02 GMT
By the way.......... My latest upgrade incorporates Panasonic 3300uF / 35V in the power section......... Totally different kettle of sonic fish Mike. |
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Post by Riker on Apr 6, 2015 13:45:59 GMT
HI, I know what you mean. The original idea and the first steps are always pleasant memories. I myself as a hobby I create a device for a high speed photography - water drop collision. Despite a number of hardware upgrades, I would not get rid of the first version of my project. Leave a page in its original state. Those interested will know what to do next I am glad that you still are upgrading project, I'll definitely use your suggestions for further modification. I also want to replace the power supply. I would like to do it yourself, the parts are on the way. I wonder what will come out Best regards Krzysztof |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 10, 2015 20:20:47 GMT
HI, I know what you mean. The original idea and the first steps are always pleasant memories. I myself as a hobby I create a device for a high speed photography - water drop collision. Despite a number of hardware upgrades, I would not get rid of the first version of my project. Leave a page in its original state. Those interested will know what to do next I am glad that you still are upgrading project, I'll definitely use your suggestions for further modification. I also want to replace the power supply. I would like to do it yourself, the parts are on the way. I wonder what will come out Best regards Krzysztof I'm sure your power supply will be a work of art Krzysztof and will certainly be a lot better than the "as good as useless" wallwart that comes with the V3. Just take your time and, if it's going to be housed in a metal / aluminium enclosure, make sure you pay close attention to earthing / grounding...... are you going to incorporate a chassis mount fuse and what VA rating of toroid will you be using? The center tap is simple on any 12-0-12V toroid..... there are four output leads..... Yellow Orange Red Black....... you basically connect orange and red together and that is 0V...... this connects to the middle pin of the 3 pin DIN plug...... the yellow and black outputs go to the two outer pins of the DIN plug. No load voltage between the two outer pins should be about 28V and 14V between each of the outer pins and center pin. I don't recommend using a HUGE VA toroidal unless you get it custom wound to drop to 12V "under load". Mike. |
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Post by Riker on Apr 11, 2015 9:39:22 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 11, 2015 20:13:00 GMT
The MOV and X2 cap are fine but make sure you fit the MOV "after" the fuse, the connection of the one you linked to is incorrect.... it should be connected after the fuse and not before it.
NICE looking transformer and I love the enclosure and cable, that will look fantastic when it's complete.
Mike.
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2015 19:24:41 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 4, 2015 19:12:37 GMT
The MOV and X2 cap are fine but make sure you fit the MOV "after" the fuse. Mike. Hi, This thread got me inspired. My V3 is sounding good, have a pair of muscular Russian 6N1P in it right now, but was thinking of upgrading. What's included in the upgrade kit - all that's needed, or mainly the basics? Hi, It includes all that you require  All the best, Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 8:38:31 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 5, 2015 21:01:26 GMT
Perfect. Order placed and I'll report how work gets along. Should have done this years ago to realise the V3's potential. My soldering skills are not solid, but that's not stopping me from trying. Gonna be fun. Cheers It'll be a breeze Stefan, don't worry! Go into each joint with a hot iron (400 - 430c) and feed the solder in until it "pools" (turns into liquid) and then withdraw the iron from the joint.... what you are looking for is a "pool" of solder that forms a slight dome. Don't fire the solder in like cement, you don't need a lot. Don't look at tutorials like this: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qps9woUGkvIIn fact, don't look at ANY of those USA "soddering" tutorials.... they are damned annoying and 90% of them haven't got a clue what they are doing! Take the above "tutorial", for example......... I would never solder two wires together the way that girl did...... I would tin both wires first and THEN solder them together and I would make a better job without one of those "helping hands" things...... Jeez, I wouldn't want to rely on her soldering skills if I was flying a fighter jet with her repairs on board Yup..... "soddering" is an apt word for it...... it's a soddin' mess If anything Stefan, the "desoldering" will be the trickiest part. The instruction sheet tells you the easiest way to do it and, to date, most people have found the instructions easy to follow. All the best, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 5, 2015 21:03:46 GMT
BTW.......................... "Safety Goggles"?
My ASS!
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 5, 2015 21:11:45 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2015 22:07:13 GMT
Hi Mike
Elementary, isn't it ? Safety Goggles? I don't remember seeing any more than one or two of our Telstra Installation staff using them for soldering ,(they were available) or for that matter any of our maintenance staff members . I would have soldered 10s of 1,000s of joints in my career too. The most important thing is good ventilation and lighting , along with suitable work benches.
Kind Regards Alex |
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 5, 2015 22:17:33 GMT
Hi Mike
Elementary, isn't it ? Safety Goggles? I don't remember seeing any more than one or two of our Telstra Installation staff using them for soldering ,(they were available) or for that matter any of our maintenance staff members . I would have soldered 10s of 1,000s of joints in my career too. The most important thing is good ventilation and lighting , along with suitable work benches.
Kind Regards Alex It sure is Watson |
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Post by Riker on May 6, 2015 19:50:46 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 7, 2015 6:22:18 GMT
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Post by Riker on May 7, 2015 19:28:20 GMT
HI, Thank you Navermyr, its nice to hear. Since the first listening (original state) until today I really noticed a huge change. The first big WOW effect appeared when I replace components described in my first hread. The sound had become more open, more dynamic, more crystal. There were instruments that do not pay attention earlier. For testing, I use a few favorite songs that I know fairly well. At that time, I used the SoundBlaster Z sound card (slightly modified ). When I first listened to the "new amplifier" I had the impression that I left equalizer enabled or/and "Crystalizer" (SoundBlaster audio enhancer). Really wonderful feeling. I'm not an audiophile type person, hard for me to describe it but the difference is definitely noticeable. Encouraged by the positive result, I invested in new tubes, new sound source (DAC), PSU plus other minor changes. I am very pleased and I highly recommend you to try, you will not be disappointed. Mike told me that his original project (which is what inspired me) has been improved so expect even better results. I listen to different kind of music. Starting from Jean Michel Jarre, Gregorian, Era ending at Trance music, Scooter and Titanic OST - this last is well suited for testing ;D Good luck in the work of the amplifier! Be sure to let us know what are your feelings after the change. Best regards. Krzysztof |
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 7, 2015 20:00:55 GMT
Krzysztof,
That is an absolutely SUPERB piece of quality you have built there, very nice indeed!!
I take my hat off to you sir!
All the best,
Mike.
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Post by Riker on May 7, 2015 20:03:07 GMT
As for the soldering techniques. If you do not feel comfortable with this I strongly recommend buying damaged old computer ATX power supply. It costs almost nothing but as an object of experimental... you will not find anything better for this job . As a tool, for this type of work I personally recommend: flux pen (or equivalent), desoldering vacuum suction pump, solder wick, isopropyl alcohol, cotton sticks, small side cutters, magnifying glass for quality control. |
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Post by Riker on May 7, 2015 20:43:18 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2015 19:28:10 GMT
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