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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2012 8:41:08 GMT
The T1 is excellent value.
I have a Horizon and a T1. If I was going to have to buy one I'd go T1.
£145 from Mike. The choice of an even better (tested) valve with it. You don't have to build it or pay a premium for having it built. It's a very low noise amp and goes loud. It runs a lot cooler.
It's cheaper!!!
Sent from my iPod using ProBoards app
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Oct 6, 2012 12:46:59 GMT
The T1 is excellent value. I have a Horizon and a T1. If I was going to have to buy one I'd go T1. £145 from Mike. The choice of an even better (tested) valve with it. You don't have to build it or pay a premium for having it built. It's a very low noise amp and goes loud. It runs a lot cooler. It's cheaper!!! It's a no brainer Ian, Fantastic sound quality, immaculate looks, choice of valves, goes very loud and certainly runs cool. A T1 from Mike is the obvious choice.
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Post by 99birdy on Oct 9, 2012 4:27:03 GMT
If you like the idea behind the Indeed products, and can afford a little more, why not take a look at the Aune DAC/HA as linked to in the news header at the top of the screen ? It has a solid state amplifier section , but the tube in the DAC section gives it that valve "flavour" It's also more versatile, and judging by the posted photos and replies, it is also quite attractive. Alex Yes that is very nice looking... how does it compare to the Indeed? It's $80 more for me I'd have to know if it was $80 better. I won't be buying it from the UK (this website) so an honest evaluation would be helpful, as one way or another it won't directly affect sales. sorry! Just being honest. Does anyone know who the preferred seller to deal with is for US buyers? Is the "better" valve referred to above talking about the 6922? same electrolux as used in the indeed
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2012 4:50:08 GMT
99birdy Why not just continue to click on the link in the Newsfader at the top of the screen, and read the unbiased reports by members who asked to participate in listening to it ? I have no financial interest in any of this, and I am just suggesting something that so far, is getting very good reviews, and will also provide more than just a simple headphone amplifier. In other words, a future upgrade path. Regards Alex
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Post by 99birdy on Oct 9, 2012 4:54:58 GMT
I will get to all 10 pages later on but wanted to ask here because this thread was (originally) about the G3 but has gone a little offtopic. Although, they would seem to be great competitors considering they both use the same tube.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2012 5:01:15 GMT
I will get to all 10 pages later on but wanted to ask here because this thread was (originally) about the G3 but has gone a little offtopic. Although, they would seem to be great competitors considering they both use the same tube. They may both use the same tube, but the tube is used in the DAC section only of this combined DAC and HA. The HA section is solid state, however when playing music via the DAC, which will almost certainly be of higher quality than via analogue out of the majority of internal soundcards, you will still have the added warmth that the tube brings. Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2012 5:44:23 GMT
The T1 is better than a G3. Lower noise levels. Better volume travel. Better treble extension. It's a more solid unit It doesn't get hot, just warm. I suspect it's a lot more reliable long term - I've gone through 4 of those Chinese cracker amps already.
The thread says it all. It's really worth the money since it will play digitally from the computer as well as normally as an ordinary amp.
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Post by rukmeister on Dec 5, 2012 23:22:20 GMT
Thank you everyone for the info so far, it's been very useful and is much appreciated! I was just wondering if anyone can recommend a replacement volume pot? I've had this little beast for about 6 months, but lately the pot has really been giving me trouble. One channel cutting out, gain going really high, pops and crackles. It has got to the point now where I often have to wiggle it to get it to work right and I'm starting to worry about what it's doing to my amp & speakers! (I mainly use my G3 as a pre connected to either one of those DAC Destroyer hand made DACs or Cowon iAudio9 mp3 player and into an great old Toshiba Aurex amp and Jamo speakers - all sound pretty good too for a budget setup!) It doesn't matter if the replacement pot won't mount on the PCB, I'm enclosing the whole thing because of the RF interference anyway. If I just wire up a ALPS 100k Dual Linear pot it should be fine right? I noticed it's an 8 pin variety. Just wondering if that the extra 2 pins on the right are used for the bass boost function? If so is it possible to bypass that and use a 6 pin dual pot as I don't use the bass boost anyway. I'm assuming the bass boost in the off position just leaves the circuit open and I should be able to just remove the entire switch completely? Also FWIW I switched the tube to one of those cryogenically treated ones from cryoset, a Genelex Gold Lion ECC82 and it was a major improvement. A LOT clearer, tighter bass, better sound stage and female vocals particularly really sound great! I listen to a wide variety of music and it's definitely been an improvement overall. I don't have a lot of experience with rolling but it's definitely better than the stock electro harmonix. I also noticed I couldn't bias to 15.5v the closest I could get was to about 14v on both channels, so I set to 13.5v instead and it sounds fine as far as I can discern, tbh I couldn't hear any difference with different biases between 12v-14v which is the range I was able to change it.
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Post by Alberto01 on Jan 17, 2013 21:48:39 GMT
Can I use a 12AX7 tube with the Indeed G3?
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Post by LuK on Mar 17, 2013 13:43:25 GMT
It's a no brainer Ian, Fantastic sound quality, immaculate looks, choice of valves, goes very loud and certainly runs cool. A T1 from Mike is the obvious choice. Excuse me, but... What is this "T1"? Where can I buy it? Thx.
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Mar 17, 2013 18:19:25 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2013 12:11:48 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 12, 2013 19:53:52 GMT
Just received this little thing which seems to work with my AKGs but runs out of steam and distorts (bass) with the Yamaha HP2 orthodynamic (150 ohms) already before volume control is halfway. With supplied 5814 valve. Anyone tried orthos with the G3? I had hopes that the mosfets would be able to deliver some current. IIRC the Yamaha HP2 was circa 1970's and VERY inefficient..... Treat those 'phones with respect and appreciate them for what they are..... you will not get a big, ballsy, sound from them from ANY amp.... they are what they are and the distortion is possibly more indicative of an aged pair of headphones rather than an amp which is clipping. MIke.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2013 8:30:40 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 13, 2013 10:10:58 GMT
Gonna check the bias. Just to make sure: if I change to 6922 the bias should still be 15,5V, the jumper set to 6V? No no.... the jumper should be set to 12V if you are using the 6922
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Post by Deleted on Jul 13, 2013 11:00:09 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 13, 2013 13:21:36 GMT
Oh, I thought the 6922 was a 6,3V tube and the ECC82/5814 were 12,6V. Don't know much about these parallel/series things. Thanks, will adjust the settings later today. STOP!! The 6922 IS 6.3V, I had ECC82 in my mind when I said 12V...... 6922 IS 6.3V!!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 14, 2013 5:17:54 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2013 8:09:37 GMT
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Crispy
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"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
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Post by Crispy on Jul 23, 2013 7:25:40 GMT
Lovely bit of joinery work, it really makes the amp look different and individual. What's it sound like?
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Crispy
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Post by Crispy on Jul 23, 2013 7:32:31 GMT
This amp is so good I thought maybe it's worth installing a time-delay relay to the plate voltage to prolong tube life. Anyone tried this? If you look at Project Ember you will see that it has a 30sec time delay to the tube to make sure the tube is fully warm before switch on, so you may get some clues from that. I have no electrical experience as such, but I am sure one of the guys on here could help you out with it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2013 8:06:55 GMT
This amp is so good I thought maybe it's worth installing a time-delay relay to the plate voltage to prolong tube life. Anyone tried this? If you look at Project Ember you will see that it has a 30sec time delay to the tube to make sure the tube is fully warm before switch on, so you may get some clues from that. I have no electrical experience as such, but I am sure one of the guys on here could help you out with it. I guess that doing that would allow the unit to run cooler, thereby prolonging the life of the electrolytic capacitors in this design, which often fails at around 1 year of use.. Alex
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2013 16:48:23 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 27, 2013 23:18:42 GMT
Don't worry..... it will be fine for many years.
Enjoy the music!
Mike.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2013 0:00:02 GMT
Don't worry..... it will be fine for many years. Enjoy the music! Mike. Hi Mike IF it uses 105C electros, it should be , yet there are numerous reports , including a few posted here in R.G. that they often fail at just over 12 months. Of course, they are likely to last considerably longer up near the North Pole! Perhaps a few of those special gold looking (?) automotive temp. rated caps that you have in stock ? Alex
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