|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 15, 2011 19:22:45 GMT
The new Indeed G3 headphone amp is here (it's actually been here for a while but am just getting round to it now) and I will be filling this thread with all things "G3" in the next few days. I will look at the amp in depth and take some close up shots but, in the meantime, here is the Indeed blurb on ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Indeed-G3-Headphone-Tube-Pre-Amplifier-ECC82EH-Class-/250876544522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6968460aI had a quick look and there certainly are some changes to the design, just how this equates to sound quality will become evident as soon as I get her up and running. The new potentiometer is quite interesting.... it "clicks" when you rotate it, much like a stepped attenuator.... has a really nice feel to it. There is now a "loudness" button. I will get into it soon, I've got a cold coming on right now and feel like crap.... not in the mood to type away about amps. Anyhoo... the G3 thread has been started, more to appear (a LOT more I hope!) as soon as I feel a bit better.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 16, 2011 19:52:48 GMT
Feeling a lot better today, must have been one of those one day type colds, so here goes! LM3171 x 4, IRF 510 x 2, 25V / 6800uF x 1, 25V / 100uF x 1, 1000uF / 16V x 2, Dale resistors, EVOX film caps... all good stuff. There is an RCA (phono) input as well as a 3.5mm input and these are selected by pushing a switch. There is also a "loudness" button which, essentially, boosts the bass at low to medium volco levels... I'd like to call this a bass button (more on that later). Fit and finish is first class, my only slight criticism (again) would be the 25V / 6800uF cap..... It gets 24V across it and some would say that it's 24V rating is a bit "close to the bone"... if your PSU is a perfect 24V, however, it should be fine. Some "non standard" PSU's may output a bit more than 24V and this is when the 25V cap be will be under rated.... I think a 35V cap would have been better in this position as it gives a bit more headroom.... better to have a 35V cap with 27V going through it than a 25V cap with 27V across it The IRF 510 is the MOSFET that the Indeed amp should have had in it from day one and it's great to see the IRF 510 in the G3 instead of the usual IRF 630N Indeed were fitting (G1 / G2). The twin LM3171's (per side) run pretty much "lukewarm" to the touch (which is good) but the IRF 510 are just as "scorchio" to the touch as the IRF 630's were (you can keep your fingers on them for 2 seconds)..... perfectly OK but don't try licking them or you will scorch your tongue You just have to love the gold knob (Ian will like this ).... It adds a bit of panache to an "already" snazzy looking amp. Indeed were the first to bring this particular type of amp to the mass market and were copied by the likes of Bravo and MiriDiy.... to my eyes the Indeed always stands out as the pack leader and usually has the edge "sonically" over the copycat versions. The Valve that shipped with my indeed is the Electro Harmonix ECC82EH (12.6V type) but you can also choose the Electro Harmonix 6922EH Gold (6.3V type) for £7 more. The "gold" part relates to the pins on the 6922EH and, personally speaking, doesn't account for much "sonically" with a 6922... I have always preferred the NOS chrome pinned 6N23P-EB over these current production Russian made EH valves..... anyhoo, I will get around to trying a wide range of valves in the G3 over the next few month. The ECC82EH is not a valve I am familiar with (by the way) and I will listen to the one that came with the amp and then go down the 6.3V route. PSU is a 24V DC type, Indeed didn't send me one with the review sample so I am using my trusty variable voltage (with integral fan) 6 amp SMPS: It's bigger than the amp ffs! Oh well, it measures a perfect 24VDC so fit for the purpose For any of you wanting to use your own PSU the DC plug you require is a 2.5mm type. The G1 / G2 came with a 2.1mm plug and you will not be able to power the G3 with your G2 PSU unless you swap the plug over They cost about 12 pence each so no biggie. I think that Indeed would also ship JUST the amp if you already had your own PSU.... the shipping costs and price of the amp could be reduced a fair bit if you already had your own PSU OK.... here are a few more photos to look at while I go and make a cup of tea:
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 16, 2011 20:40:33 GMT
I had the G3 turned on most of the day with music playing through it so it was nice and hot for my initial listening session. First thing that struck me when I put my DT-990's on my head was "this is no G2"..... this is nothing LIKE a G2! I was expecting a subtle improvement from the G3, what with the IRF 510 etc. on board and am quite disappointed.... this is no "subtle" improvement, this is a MAJOR sonic improvement! For some reason I had it in the back of my mind "more of the same" and have been putting off listening to the G3.... what a silly man! Just goes to prove that preconceptions are not the best tools to judge gear with, the "ears" are the only tools to use. The G3 trounces (yes, "trounces") the G2 in the sonic department.... the scale, the dynamics, the pace, the rhythm, the timing, the headstage, the detail retreival, the macro detailing.... this is one "kick arse" little amp. I have been listening (mainly) to my Project Sunrise headphone amp the past few weeks and was expecting a bit of a "downgrade" in the sonic dept. switching over to the G3 but, NO! It's very hard to seperate the two of them SQ wise. If anything, I would say the G3 has the edge when it comes to dynamics and sheer GRUNT.... close your eyes and you'd think you were listening to an amp the size of a domestic fridge.... open them, shake your head.... YES, "that" sound "IS" coming out of that little thing! The general tonality is what we commonly refer to as "tubey" but the detail retrieval and dynamic attack would suggest that this is a hybrid of the finest class.... the best of both worlds. The "loudness" button basically whacks up the bass a bit and I would imagine this may be a good feature for AKG K-701 owners..... not the ideal solution but bass is "bass" Jim and if it takes a loudness "button" to provide that bass in a K-701 who's complaining? I will have to ship this to my man in Surrey for a full report on the effect of the "bass" switch on the K-701 as I no longer have a pair of K-701. The volco is quite peculiar.... it tracks PERFECTLY as you "notch" up through the clicks and is totally silent. Pause the CD, however, and notch up...you will hear crackling between the steps.... totally silent when it latches on to the next step but a bit noisy inbetween steps (ONLY when there is no source being amplified) Not a problem to me but quite a strange one, maybe Frans can elaborate. I don't want to be accused of "raving" (even though the G3 deserves a good rave) so will send this over to Ian for a listen...... More to come
|
|
xerxes
Been here a while!
Posts: 1,115
|
Post by xerxes on Sept 18, 2011 10:38:48 GMT
Hi Mike,
I was looking at the G3 and see that it has some RCA output sockets. Are these a volume controlled, pre-amp output or simply a pass through?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 18, 2011 10:46:35 GMT
Hi Mike, I was looking at the G3 and see that it has some RCA output sockets. Are these a volume controlled, pre-amp output or simply a pass through? Haven't looked at it, haven't tried it.... it says in the instructions "The RCA output will be cut off when headphones are plugged in".... I will try it later on. By the way, the On / OFF switch has broken after only "one" throw of the switch.... I went to turn it off and it's bust Not a biggie but just thought I would mention it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2011 11:02:09 GMT
It wasn't hit by a wayward little whirlybird by any chance ? ;D How did the flying session in the room with MERTON's artwork go ?
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 18, 2011 20:53:37 GMT
I like the Indeed G3, I like it a LOT. It is very similar to the Project Sunrise amp having a gorgeous tone, dynamics to die for and a nice bit of GRUNT behind it. I was getting that annoying mobile phone signal noise through it again and thought to myself "sod this!" These open frame things sure do "look" nice but they are "open" to interference. Indeed don't hide the fact either, the instructions clearly state: "Keep a far distance from any wireless device e.g wireless router, mobile phone etc..... this is very important to reduce noise pollution". Well folks, I don't give a rat's arse "what" the amp looks like but I DO give a rat's arse about "noise pollution" so I came up with a very simple "cunning plan". Firstly, I removed the dodgy ON/OFF switch and fitted an axial ferrite link in its place. I then grounded the body of the pot (onto the sleeve of the headphone socket)...... Next up I converted the plastic top and bottom plates into noise nulling screens. This is simple to do, I used sticky backed aluminium tape and some self adhesive copper foil. Basically covered both plates with the tape and then ensured they were grounded.... you can't solder onto the aluminium foil but CAN solder onto the copper (hence the additional copper strips).... did a continuity test and everything is now grounded (even the 4 support) pillars. Not exactly the "prettiest" puppy on the block but, my god, one of the nicest sounding! I've had her on for an hour and the shielding seems to be doing a job (of sorts). If I hold the mobile (iphone) next to the G3 and dial out WITH my headphones on then, yes, I can hear strong interference but if I move the phone half a metre away and dial my own landline there is ZERO interference so I am very happy with the results.... last night (without the noise nulling tape) I was picking up interference when I received an incoming call and the phone was in another room! These amps (G1 / G2 / G3) definitely have an audience PURELY on their looks.... I am not part of this audience.. The G1 and G2 sounded great for the money but had flaws (limited bandwith / susceptibility to interference / crosstalk etc.) The G3 is in a different league, crosstalk problems have been addressed and the bandwith is now up to par thanks to the IRF510.... this is a Seriously good amplifier, "sonically" and I see no reason why the G4 should not be the real turning point for this amp.... FULLY ENCLOSED / shielded design.... forget the colourful lights and the "tube" sticking out of the top.... all just garnish and actually detrimental to the full sonic potential of this amp. Ground the enclosure, ground the body of the potentiometer, ground the lot! In this day and age of "wireless", nobody is exempt from interference, it is all around us and actually travelling through our BODIES as we speak..... It is therefore ESSENTIAL to provide a barrier ( a shield) around an amp to prevent all this shite getting in. The best part is this.... most of the interference that gets into the amp won't be "audible" but it WILL play a major part in how the music sounds to your ears. These amps (Indeed G3 / Project Sunrise) are absolute CRACKERS but (IMO) are not realising their full potential in the open frame guise. I have only partially shielded my G3 and can, already, detect more clarity in the sonics... I will send this "string and sellotape" semi shielded G3 over to my man in deepest Surrey for a test drive. Actually, let me get something off my chest.... I find these open frame designs to be extremely tacky and pandering to the "eye candy" brigade..... they mostly sell on their "looks" alone and the more "lighting" the better..... Thing is, the manufacturers of these amps are shooting themselves in the foot..... It would be EASIER to enclose these circuits in a fully shielded enclosure, they would be a lot more user friendly and a lot less "dust magnet" AND they would sound better into the bargain. They would also be a lot safer and less "proddable" for small fingers to get burnt. I have had second thoughts about the "loudness" button too.... good fun but, another pointless gimmick.... the "quality" of the loudness button is in the same league as the ON / OFF switch and I doubt the "gimmick" would last too long in service..... just pray that it fails in the "OFF" position! G3 is the best yet (sonically), without a shadow of a doubt, BUT the addition of loudness circuits and gimmicks is not what I (for one) am expecting..... NO instruction manual should include: "Keep a far distance from any wireless device e.g wireless router, mobile phone etc..... this is very important to reduce noise pollution" No no no no no!!! SHIELD the amp correctly! It's not everybody who has access to / knowledge of shielding / the time to shield / the tools to shield / the materials to shield so, for that reason "alone" I cannot recommend the Indeed G3. Sonically it is up there with the very best of the breed (on a good day) but if you live next to a mobile phone mast it could be your worst nightmare and I am not prepared to "gamble" and assume that everybody who buys one will live in a Wi-Fi free zone / mobile phone free household. £75.00 is "still" a fair bit of money. I would GLADLY pay £100 for a fully shielded (enclosed) version of this amp and would expect the quality of the switches to be improved too.... the ON / OFF switch, input selector switch and Loudness switch are just cheap junk..... A fully enclosed version would also allow for a reliable "35V" 6800uF power cap to be fitted. I, personally, think this is the best sounding single valver on the market and can EASILY house it in my own enclosure etc. BUT, I am thinking of the guys who don't have the resources / ability when I conclude with "Could be improved upon with a bit of metal around it" Ian, do you have time to listen to the G3? If so, I will send it over this week. Mike.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2011 21:18:06 GMT
Of course Mike!! Always willing to listen to new gear. Many thanks for the opportunity. The noise issue is one of my biggest bugbears (as you know) but the Sunrise is now totally noiseless so it's a dream to listen to.
The mods you've done to the G3 make sense imo because someone, somewhere in the world is going to encounter a dirty phone call or a taxi. However, with a bit of care and attention, they do go down and I think the idea of having the big heat sinks on the Sunrise is great. It runs cool and won't burn and just this gives you more confidence in the amp's longevity. I really don't like the massive heat that you can get from valve stuff because of the scorching that tends to happen with time.
Not one of my Bravo types has kept going. All gone!! Sent away for retirement. It was due imo to heat and things breaking down.
The G3 may run hot like them too perhaps? However, I would prefer a closed box with big heatsinks as well. Just makes you think everything is safer inside.
The earthing of the volpot is a good idea since it's dead to the touch in my Sunrise now, whereas before it was reacting to touch.
What about magnetic plates clinging to the pillars? That'll box it in!!
Ian
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 18, 2011 21:35:55 GMT
Of course Mike!! Always willing to listen to new gear. Many thanks for the opportunity. The noise issue is one of my biggest bugbears (as you know) but the Sunrise is now totally noiseless so it's a dream to listen to. The mods you've done to the G3 make sense imo because someone, somewhere in the world is going to encounter a dirty phone call or a taxi. However, with a bit of care and attention, they do go down and I think the idea of having the big heat sinks on the Sunrise is great. It runs cool and won't burn and just this gives you more confidence in the amp's longevity. I really don't like the massive heat that you can get from valve stuff because of the scorching that tends to happen with time. Not one of my Bravo types has kept going. All gone!! Sent away for retirement. It was due imo to heat and things breaking down. The G3 may run hot like them too perhaps? However, I would prefer a closed box with big heatsinks as well. Just makes you think everything is safer inside. The earthing of the volpot is a good idea since it's dead to the touch in my Sunrise now, whereas before it was reacting to touch. What about magnetic plates clinging to the pillars? That'll box it in!! Ian The enclosure would also act as a heatsink..... IMO they would sell like hot cakes
|
|
|
Post by ohmer on Sept 19, 2011 22:21:20 GMT
Day 1: I just got mine today and only have some cheap Sony ear buds. The amp sounds as well as it can in these, the bass is warm and extended. I'm getting some nice "airyness" from some of my songs. There is some crosstalk. In my excitement, I connected the power without the bulb and got some arcing from the plug. Day 2: After adjusting the bias (Im trying 13.5v first), I can't hear any crosstalk at all. This amp sounds real nice from my JVC HA-D500 HP. Good sound stage. Nice bass maybe not perfectly tight but close. I like the loudness for some songs when I'm listening at low volumes, It can get slightly muddy but not bad. I would stay away from it for already bass heavy tunes like dubstep. Can't wait to hear my AKG K701 and Sony MDR-7506 on this. Fun amp!
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 8:37:00 GMT
What do you think of the loudness circuit ohmer? Great fun! Sure, it's not one for the "audiophile" (the loundness button) but you just can't help pressing it at very low listening levels Had mine on all last night and just one brief incoming phone signal so it's really not that much of a big deal. Ohmer, with your amp connected to your source and with NO music playing.... turn the volume knob up and down, is it slightly noisey between the steps? (Obviously do this test with your headphones on )
|
|
|
Post by porcinet77 on Sept 21, 2011 11:01:32 GMT
Hi Guys
I am from France and I enjoy this Forum.
I also did receive my Indeed G3 amp, great little device! I tried it with 12AU7 valve, sound is very flat, no expression, no feelings With 6922EH, much greater for me!!!!!
How do you adjust bias on the G3? I am not sure about the positive point to be measured........since the layout of the board is not the same as G2!
What is the best voltage for Bias? Is it different than G2?
I did measure 9Volts on the positive of the 16V 1000µF caps, is it OK?
Looking for your comments!
Thanks and best regards.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 13:16:07 GMT
Will explain later on
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 13:18:01 GMT
By the way, Frans..... the 10K resistor is actually "underneath" the 6800uF capacitor which is why it doesn't show on the bottom of the PCB I have "relocated" it and will take a snap to show you. Mike.
|
|
|
Post by ohmer on Sept 21, 2011 14:01:13 GMT
Mike, Sometimes I play it on low just to have an excuse to engage loudness. I did notice the scratchy sound when changing the volume but it has gone down some. Is there a fix for this? porcinet77, I think you're right, I have a 6922EH tube in mine also and it sounds more alive than my Bravo V2 with mods and bias adjustment using a 12UA7. I realize the G3 is a different animal but I suspect the tube is contributing a significant amount. I used the inside leads on R3 and R13 to adjust bias and set it to 13.5V. Is this correct? Also is it advisable to get one of those tube faraday cage?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2011 14:19:00 GMT
Mike, is it a bass boost only or does it do what a loudness button is supposed to do and boost the bass and the treble so that you have a bigger curve in the frequency response.
If I'm honest, I did find this useful on the old NAD amplifiers for very low level listening, but it was implemented quite well on the NAD. The bass boost seemed to be in a good 'place' in the FR.
I also wonder how the K601 would respond to this. (or even 701) The 601 can produce a lot of bass if you equalise so I imagine this could work.
I was thinking about your sticky tin foil idea - a metal plate would work with these perhaps? I do wonder whether it's worth pulling the board off the plates and fixing it all into a tin box. I know it's a pain getting sockets and plugs in, but it may well behave much better then.
The G3 sounds like a good amp. Of all the designs I tried, the Indeed worked nicely. It's not the same company is it? The others all broke down with time. (and heat)
Ian
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 14:26:36 GMT
OK.... just finished the pics..... R3 and R13 are the measuring points (200 ohm). The easiest way is to solder on a couple of temporary "tails", thus: Set your multimeter to the ohms range and connect the left tail to the red lead on the multimeter and connect the black lead to ground (I just clip it on the ground part of the phono socket) Adjust here: Until you get close to 13.5V Do the same on the right hand channel and adjust with the R/H trim pot. Allow the amp 30 minutes to warm up before adjusting. Easy as that
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 14:33:25 GMT
Mike, is it a bass boost only or does it do what a loudness button is supposed to do and boost the bass and the treble so that you have a bigger curve in the frequency response. If I'm honest, I did find this useful on the old NAD amplifiers for very low level listening, but it was implemented quite well on the NAD. The bass boost seemed to be in a good 'place' in the FR. I also wonder how the K601 would respond to this. (or even 701) The 601 can produce a lot of bass if you equalise so I imagine this could work. I was thinking about your sticky tin foil idea - a metal plate would work with these perhaps? I do wonder whether it's worth pulling the board off the plates and fixing it all into a tin box. I know it's a pain getting sockets and plugs in, but it may well behave much better then. The G3 sounds like a good amp. Of all the designs I tried, the Indeed worked nicely. It's not the same company is it? The others all broke down with time. (and heat) Ian Ian, it is a loudness circuit, boosts the bass and treble, correct... very effective too at low volco settings. It's "not" trickery, it's a proper dedicated loudness circuit and a really good feature IMO when listening at low levels. Loudness (on) = 100Hz + 8db / 10kHz + 4db Hope this helps, will send soon so you can have a listen
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2011 16:27:22 GMT
Oh right, so it's a useful thing to have in the circuit then. I used to find that very nice on the NAD amps, but then they're quite nice amps. When it's implemented badly, it's just plain nasty
Night time listening really low is great and there's no strain on the amp so you get a good, clean sound and the addition of a loudness circuit would make it really acceptable in that situation.
I listen very low, particularly late at night (in bed!!) and making a better 'u' curve at those volumes does make sense.
I've always wondered why there isn't a 'trim' on amplifiers to compensate for volume anyway. One that works smoothly like a volume control. I guess it would interfere with the FR and not track smoothly as you adjust?
I'm always adjusting the volume for presence when I change headphone and it would be nice to change the 'trimming' on the amp instead!!
Ian
|
|
|
Post by ohmer on Sept 21, 2011 16:35:20 GMT
Thanks for the bias tutorial (confirmation) Mike. Doh, I went back to actually read your earlier comments and saw why you grounded the pot. ;D I just grabbed a metal twisty tie and stripped it to wrap it around the pot and threaded it over the grounded headphone socket pin. I know its sloppy but it's just for testing until I get home. Nice and clean volume changing!
|
|
|
Post by porcinet77 on Sept 21, 2011 18:36:34 GMT
Thanks Pink Floyd! Good pictures for Bias. I saw that solderdude was advising to set Bias to 15.5v on the G2. Is 15.5 or 13.5v better for G3? Did you notice that output caps were 25v on G2 and are "only" 16v on G3? Is it border line?
To answer a question asked above, rca out is volume controlled, not only pass through.
I am very happy with SQ with my 6922 G3!
Regards.
|
|
|
Post by ohmer on Sept 21, 2011 19:30:18 GMT
procinet77, Check out these post from solderdude. Hope this helps. I have set mine to 13.5 but will also try 15.5.
Mike states in an earlier post that this contains two IRF 510.
Mike, I wonder what your take is on your preference to use 13.5 instead of 15.5? ===============
Re: Indeed G2 tweaks and bias adjustment « Reply #230 on Jul 21, 2010, 10:23am » If you have IRF type MOSFET's bias the amp around 15.5 Volts. If you have IRL type fitted bias around 13.5 Volts. =============== Re: Indeed G2 tweaks and bias adjustment « Reply #233 on Jul 23, 2010, 3:37pm »
Optimal bias voltage with IRF = around 15-16V Optimal bias voltage with IRL = around 13-14V
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 19:34:22 GMT
Hi Porci, 13.5V / 15.5V.... whatever sounds better to your ears. The project Sunrise is biased @ 13.5V and Frans designed that so I am just assuming he now favours 13.5V as I did in the original G2 thread It's not written in stone so try between 13V - 16V and see what suits your ears the best.... good fun playing about with things and won't do any harm The 16V / 1000uF caps are absolutely fine as they only have 9V going across them so PERFECTLY good. The only cap that is running a bit too close to it's limit is the 25V / 6800uF..... It has 24V going across it so ALWAYS make sure the PSU you use is a perfect 24V.... the PSU that comes with it is switched mode so should be very close to 24VDC. Some crappy "wallwarts" may say "24V" on them but can be as much as 40V in some cases! The Indeed SMPS supplies are pretty decent. I had the 6800uF / 25V cap out the other day and it tested at 7540uF and the ESR was 0.00 which is excellent..... 7540uF is even better than 6800uF in this part of the circuit. Peter is doing his best to keep the size of the amp quite small and a 35V / 6800uF would be too large (physically) to fit so he has decided to go close to the max voltage rating for the cap in order to fit in as much capacitance as he can. There is always a bit of tolerance allowed with caps so 24V is not really "pushing" a 25V cap as long as the 24V is a GENUINE, steady 24V, the cap will not fail prematurely and is actually perfectly within limits. It's only a bit close to the bone if that 24V power supply is actually outputting MORE than 24V.... worth checking the output of the supplied Indeed PSU with your multimeter, I think it should be pretty spot on. 35V cap would be a better choice, if the supplied PSU's were "variable" between batches but as long as the manufacturer is sure that they are all 24V then not a problem IMO but, as you have a multimeter, you can do no harm in checking (and confirming here) the output of your supplied PSU. Lovely little amps Porci and the G3 is the best of them by far. I am a little concerned by the quality of the push button switches and my On / Off switch failed after only two "throws"..... I really don't think these amps NEED an on / off switch anyway.... I jumpered over my on / off switch with a radial ferrite link.... I use my little G3 at the computer and it's actually easier reaching my arm out and flicking the main socket outlet switch (which is on the desktop)..... the rest of the amp is pretty nice quality and should last quite some time but, for future reference, if you're going to fit a switch.... fit a decent quality one My G3 came with the ECC82EH fitted and I really like the sound, it's not a valve I have ever really tried.... it's a current production Electro Harmonix valve (Russian) and has an absolutely silky smooth treble and euphonic, mellifluous tone with creamy mids and thrummy bass lines.... very chocolaty but with a touch of minty chips / lemony "zing" as well..... lovely dynamics and superb PRAT. I tested the ECC82EH on my valve analyser and it was not too accurate on both sides but emissions were good. I will be matching up a nice 6N23P-EB from my armoury (NOS version of the current production EH 6922 things) and will flip the jumper over to 6.3V and try it to see how it compares (or trounces ) the ECC82EH. Nice to see you new guys on the forum and it is refreshing to get some new "unbiased" blood.... you have got my circulation going again so any questions, just ask.... any input from you all most welcome (and appreciated) too. All the best, Mike.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 21:40:40 GMT
Oh right, so it's a useful thing to have in the circuit then. I used to find that very nice on the NAD amps, but then they're quite nice amps. When it's implemented badly, it's just plain nasty Night time listening really low is great and there's no strain on the amp so you get a good, clean sound and the addition of a loudness circuit would make it really acceptable in that situation. I listen very low, particularly late at night (in bed!!) and making a better 'u' curve at those volumes does make sense. I've always wondered why there isn't a 'trim' on amplifiers to compensate for volume anyway. One that works smoothly like a volume control. I guess it would interfere with the FR and not track smoothly as you adjust? I'm always adjusting the volume for presence when I change headphone and it would be nice to change the 'trimming' on the amp instead!! Ian Most of the NAD amps I am aware of have "soft clipping" but I don't know of any recent (or earlier) ones that had a loudness button? What NAD amp are you referring to Ian? The loudness "comp" button has not been part of a NAD amp for thirty years. Mike.
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 21:48:21 GMT
|
|