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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2011 21:54:19 GMT
Yes Mike. 30 years ago!!! In those days I used the 3020 and two of the bigger version in bridged mono mode. I can't remember the model (6120?). Very good and they haf the low level switch which (I guess) lowered noise output and the loudness button to compensate.
What a memory eh?
I went from them to a small Cyrus shoebox and then up to the bigger version of the Cyrus before doing what everyone did - Naim/Sondek and loads of assorted speakers.
Gawd - 30 years!!!!
Ian
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 21:56:11 GMT
Yes Mike. 30 years ago!!! In those days I used the 3020 and two of the bigger version in bridged mono mode. I can't remember the model (6120?). Very good and they haf the low level switch which (I guess) lowered noise output and the loudness button to compensate. What a memory eh? Ian 3020 rocked!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 21, 2011 22:01:46 GMT
Shite..... we ARE both old enough to remember the 3020... great little amp.
Yeh, "loudness" button.... "soft clipping" .... good times (boogey!)
Mike.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2011 0:03:36 GMT
Another ex- Nad3020 owner here!
The "B" version for me, I sold the one I owned from new in a moment of madness only a year or so ago, idiot! Regretted it ever since.
Ian, your bridged amps would have been model 2xxx . Probably 2150/2140.
Off the top of head;
1xxx = Pre 2xxx = Power 3xxx = Integrated 4xxx = Tuner 5xxx = Record deck 6xxx = Cassette 7xxx = Receiver 8xxx = 'Speakers
Crikey that was boring!
I have to admit it did not stay as my main amp for long, a strong case of upgrade-itis lead to an Inca Tech Claymore, of which I have another example again now.
If you ever see a 3150 going cheap and in good nik they are great for second system, that was the best integrated they ever made IMHO.
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Post by porcinet77 on Sept 22, 2011 8:11:15 GMT
Hi Pink Floyd,
Thanks for your feedback! I will play around with Bias. I set up yesterday to 13.5v, sound is OK. However, I am afraid that temperature rises too much with Bias at 15.5v (temp of the heatsink is already very high!)
I checked voltage of the psu provided with the amp and it is 24.2v.
I do not hink I will change the 6800µF cap, since my soldering skills are pretty limited!
I just have one of the RCA connector which is a bit too "large" and connection is not perfect, I ll see what I can do.
I also have some noises when turning volume pot, I will try the trick to ground it.
I had on my G2 2 small PC fans each side to cool down the amp, worked perfectly. With the G3, when the fans are close to the amp, it makes parasite noise in the sound......any idea how to fix this? Is it a question of ground also?
I use this amp for my headphones, but also as a pre-amp connected to a Class T amp, combination is perfect!
Thanks for this forum!
Regards
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 22, 2011 9:19:58 GMT
I think it is the pot itself... just a bit "scratchy" between steps but once it makes contact it is totally silent.... nothing to worry about as it is silent when it latches on to the next step.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 22, 2011 9:26:35 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2011 13:05:28 GMT
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xerxes
Been here a while!
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Post by xerxes on Sept 23, 2011 15:09:40 GMT
Thanks Frans, that answers my question. The output to the to RCA out sockets is not just a pass-through but a volume controlled, preamp output.
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
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Post by XTRProf on Sept 25, 2011 0:57:04 GMT
Shite..... we ARE both old enough to remember the 3020... great little amp. Yeh, "loudness" button.... "soft clipping" .... good times (boogey!) Mike. Yeah, me too. Don't forget the Sansui AU217 and 317 as well. Those will give it a run for the money!
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Post by marcoippo on Sept 26, 2011 9:28:41 GMT
Hi everybody. sorry but i very noob. the indeed is very very beautiful. looks amazing. I have a cmoy 2.03 the indeed has a better performance?
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Post by oohms on Sept 26, 2011 14:53:53 GMT
That's a curious arrangement with the 2x LM317 and 250ma current through the IRF510.. i wonder why they don't use one for the filament supply and 2 as CCS for the mosfets (at 120ma), going to ground instead of through the filaments.
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Post by covenant on Nov 10, 2011 12:20:58 GMT
I haven't posted here for a while but bought a G2 on the strength of the many recommendations. I have been happy with it but find that it is very revealing of poor quality recordings when played through my modified Superlux 681's. The G3 looks a serious step up and I am impressed by the comments that it is on a par with the Project Sunrise amp, a more expensive product. Knowing that Indeed follow the comments on this site do you think they will address the poor quality switch issue? ATM it's putting me off purchase.
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Post by beasone on Nov 25, 2011 14:00:00 GMT
Do I need to use different bias adjustment voltage settings for different tubes? I'd like to use: 12au7, Ecc88 (6922), 12av7 (5965), 12at7 The mu ratings are 17, 35, 47, 60. Thank you!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2011 22:35:48 GMT
In stock G2, G3, bravo alike amps all tubes (regardless of type or amplification factor) need to be adjusted to 15.5V (anywhere between 15V and 16V is O.K. b.t.w.)
Those that have fitted IRLxxx type mosfets should adjust to approx. 13.5V.
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Post by jaropda on Nov 27, 2011 10:11:39 GMT
Hi friends I just made the order of the amplifier valve G3 Indeed Electro harmonix 6922 tube . Is this the best valve amplificador offering the first place? apart from the gold pins 6922 I think it has more quality than the 12AU7 and 6N11. It sounds like I will tell you this little tube amp, I have Superlux HD681B headphones that sound great are an imitation of a desire to listen to music AKG. I have serious plan without getting lost in details in listening. I have a tube amp for the guitar, so that is the subject that I have modified it by adding extra for me, is a Harley Benton GA5 vintage sounds for home runs to spare for its volume.
many thanks for this great forum, I'm learning a lot ...
Greetings from Spain
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Post by ozelui on Nov 28, 2011 10:09:44 GMT
Hi there!
Good to know there are some other folks from Spain here, LOL. Wellcome to the forum! I got a modified G2 and the EH 6922 is a good choice of tube for this amp. My guess is that the role played by the tube in the G3 will be the same as in the G2, so it´s a good choice. You can later try to pop-in some NOS 6922 (Mullard, Telefunken) as an upgrade. Or even a 7308, which is considered a "premium" 6922 with longer life ratings and so. I have heard that for this circuit, best results are obtained with a 6992 in place. Whatever the tube, make sure the bias of the amp is properly set. ;-)
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Post by ozelui on Nov 30, 2011 11:54:31 GMT
To current G3 owners...Does the stock G3 sounds better than a fully "Fransified" G2??? Is that good?? Would like to know your experiences! Apart from the extra LM317 and the loudness function, G3 seems not to have received much more upgrades....though Mike says it´s even in league with the Project Sunrise. As Mike highlighted, hope that future G4 comes in an shielded enclosure, at least, as an option with extra $....
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Post by jaropda on Nov 30, 2011 16:18:41 GMT
Hello, I think in this version G3 improvements also affect a redesigned plate board of better quality, more copper and better shielded, out of he new IRF510 aprate opening more frequencies 10 Hz-30kHz.: 92db S/N
LM3171 x 4, IRF 510 x 2, 25V / 6800UF x 1, 25V / 100uF x 1, 1000uF / 16V x 2, Dale resistors, EVOX film caps ... all good stuff
regards
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Post by jaropda on Dec 9, 2011 23:27:14 GMT
Hello, I have my tube Indeed G3 at home, nice gizmo ..... my headphones are a Superlux HD681B, I have to change the filter. has been made according to what I've tried and given a very warm sound in the audio input I have gotten from my LG mp3 320 kbs black optimus, I have not adjusted the bias, the instructions said that it is set at the factory ... I will do more tests, the valve is a 6922EH and I will comment .....
greeting
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Post by jaropda on Dec 10, 2011 11:28:42 GMT
Hi I'm adjusting the bias of my G3 6922EH factory Indeed I was 11.40 v.en bias element, I am adjusting to 13.55 v. but once you finish setting back after a while you measure and this measure has moved upwards or downwards. measurements and adjustments are carried out when the amp is hot after half an hour. I like their sound is very linear, flat, without adornment or make-up as it sounds was recorded and mixed the album to listen ... when I activate the loudness gives a very good depth ideal for low volumes and listening in bed at night ... I have not yet changed the mod filter superlus HD681B, I hope to do better after listening further, I have ordered the components ... some idea of the variation in the bias voltage?
a greeting from Spain thank you very much
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Post by jaropda on Dec 11, 2011 10:08:31 GMT
Hi,the best valve in sound tonal for my g3 indeed?
thanks
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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2011 11:23:51 GMT
yes, it is inherent to the design. Only feeding it with it's own power supply (TSR mod) will cure this. Above a certain voltage the dependancy should be lower.
With 11.4 Anode voltage the LM317 only gets 7.4V (if both channels have a bout equal voltage). As the minimal dropout voltage is around 1.6V (at 150mA) the filament only receives 5.8V When you turn up the bias the LM317 starts to work as needed and the voltage stabilises around 6.1 to 6.3V. Because of this higher and more correct heater voltage the emission is higher resulting in more current, resulting in a lower anode voltage which then needs to be readjusted.
so perfectly normal behaviour for all of those amps (unless TSR modded)
In case IRF510 are used (as in the G3) the bias voltage must be 15.5V instead of 13.5V.
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Post by jaropda on Dec 13, 2011 12:54:57 GMT
Hello, presumably to 15.5 volts gives the highest quality audio amplifier? or is the correct voltage for this valve 6922EH work that I have.
thank you very much and best regards
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2011 19:02:15 GMT
15.5V is the place to be for each tube in all these kind of devices (including G3) which have MOSFET's starting with type .. IRF
This ensures maximum symmetrical voltage swing and thus minimal distortion at higher volume. With IRL fitted this voltage must be set at 13.5V thereby increasing the maximum output voltage swing and increasing maximum output power by approx 50%
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