Project Headphone amp build thread.

[Deleted]

Changes from stock Sunrise-II

the following parts have been changed in value:

Changes in the newer kits and built versions:
R11 was 1k8 but should be changed to 1k
When you have a Sunrise-II with 1k8 already fitted it is easiest to solder a 2k2 resistor in parallel (on the bottom of the PCB)
This increases frequency range and bias stability.

After R11 has been changed the bias voltage should be lowered to 12V (from 13.5V) because of the lower cathode resistor (R11) value.
This increases output power a bit (now 0.9W in 32 Ohm on low output R setting).

This means the LED indicator circuit also needs to be changed:
R18 to 5k1
R19 to 1k
R20 to 2k7

May also be changed but not needed as retrofit:
R5 was 12 Ohm and has become 5.6 Ohm.
This lowers the low output resistance from 11 Ohm to 5 Ohm.
Doesn't make much difference but you get a few mW more output.
In case the 12 Ohm is fitted simply solder another 12 Ohm on the bottom of the PCB.

For more info PM me.

[Garage1217]

These are great, further tweaks to the Sunrise II design which is why they were not included in the current shipped kits. For any of the above, I can ship new parts for the new tweaks. Feel free to build as is and replace certain parts when they come in. The tweaks above are so new, they have not even made the last revision of the manual which will be done before the weekend!

Everyone that has purchased a kit, I will be emailing you all on the new tweaks and parts. Or feel free to email me anytime!

[proid]

I don't know why you use the Nichicon FG in the power supply, it's audio capacitor, power supply caps will work much better in this position. Here's my experience: i plan on buying panasonic 3300uf 35v to replace the stock power supply cap of my indeed g2 but it's out of stock then i bought Nichicon FW instead, i thought it's power supply caps but it's audio caps instead. After some day using it, i switch to panasonic FC and it's a huge improvement, before its soud weak, dull and too soft, now my g2 has super deep bass, more detail, high extend further. If you can find Panasonic FM than it will be the best cap for power supply and it's cheaper than Nichicon FG.
For the output cap, i changed to 470uf cap and see no roll off, no different than 1000uf cap so instead of Nichicon FG, i suggest you use higher grade cap and smaller value like elna silmic II, Muse KZ, Muse Bp 1000uF. The same money but much better quality.

[XTRProf]

May 25, 2012 11:35:25 GMT proid said:

I don't know why you use the Nichicon FG in the power supply, it's audio capacitor, power supply caps will work much better in this position. Here's my experience: i plan on buying panasonic 3300uf 35v to replace the stock power supply cap of my indeed g2 but it's out of stock then i bought Nichicon FW instead, i thought it's power supply caps but it's audio caps instead. After some day using it, i switch to panasonic FC and it's a huge improvement, before its soud weak, dull and too soft, now my g2 has super deep bass, more detail, high extend further. If you can find Panasonic FM than it will be the best cap for power supply and it's cheaper than Nichicon FG.
For the output cap, i changed to 470uf cap and see no roll off, no different than 1000uf cap so instead of Nichicon FG, i suggest you use higher grade cap and smaller value like elna silmic II, Muse KZ, Muse Bp 1000uF. The same money but much better quality.

But TECHNICALLY, the "audio caps" will out gun the normal "power supply" caps. Yeah, by name audio caps but it's actually a nomenclature for meaning higher specs caps.

Of course, the usual subjective vs objective still applies although the audio caps are technically superior. That's only where I'm in agreement with you.

[Deleted]

BTW, Nichicon FW series are only 85c rated.

[proid]

May 26, 2012 0:00:36 GMT XTRProf said:

May 25, 2012 11:35:25 GMT proid said:

I don't know why you use the Nichicon FG in the power supply, it's audio capacitor, power supply caps will work much better in this position. Here's my experience: i plan on buying panasonic 3300uf 35v to replace the stock power supply cap of my indeed g2 but it's out of stock then i bought Nichicon FW instead, i thought it's power supply caps but it's audio caps instead. After some day using it, i switch to panasonic FC and it's a huge improvement, before its soud weak, dull and too soft, now my g2 has super deep bass, more detail, high extend further. If you can find Panasonic FM than it will be the best cap for power supply and it's cheaper than Nichicon FG.
For the output cap, i changed to 470uf cap and see no roll off, no different than 1000uf cap so instead of Nichicon FG, i suggest you use higher grade cap and smaller value like elna silmic II, Muse KZ, Muse Bp 1000uF. The same money but much better quality.

But TECHNICALLY, the "audio caps" will out run the normal "power supply" caps. Yeah, by name audio caps but it's actually a nomenclature for meaning higher specs caps.

Of course, the usual subjective vs objective still applies although the audio caps are technically superior. That's only where I'm in agreement with you.

Technically, power caps have lower esr, high ripple current than audio cap. In fact audio caps have worse spec. IMO we should only use audio cap in signal path, that's where it was designed to work in.

[Deleted]

Technically, power caps have lower esr, high ripple current than audio cap. In fact audio caps have worse spec. IMO we should only use audio cap in signal path, that's where it was designed to work in.

Proid
As a general rule, you wouldn't get too much disagreement from me about that statement. However, you convincing XtrProf is an entirely different matter. Lotsa luck !
Alex

[Deleted]

The Sunrise is a DIY project.
You can fit whatever you like from the start and if someone wants different capacitors based on personal experience or certain convictions they can either be supplied or the ones not needed left out.

The reasons for choosing the capacitors used I do not know, this is Jeremy's choice.
I have no idea whether it was done by ears or general concensus or an availability/price/looks decision.

The technical reasons for choosing certain caps in certain applications are too many to give a straight example.
Those owning a Sunrise have never complained about SQ or the used capacitors as far as I know but I can ask Jeremy.

So in short, unlike completely assembled amps, you can put in whatever capacitor you choose.

[Deleted]

An answer from Jeremy in response to Proid's question:

Per the question as to why I used FG in the power supply, I actually do not and have not in ages.
I use KW series on Sunrise II and Panasonic FC in Horizon in the PS section.

For output capacitors, I use Nichicon FG in Sunrise II
Nichicon KW in Horizon (There is not a proper spec in FG for Horizon that I can obtain)

KZ Muse - Nichicon are not available in the proper 2200uF value for output caps. As you stated, 1000uF works, but rolls off the bottom more which is not acceptable for me.

[proid]

May 30, 2012 18:54:32 GMT @solderdude said:

An answer from Jeremy in response to Proid's question:

Per the question as to why I used FG in the power supply, I actually do not and have not in ages.
I use KW series on Sunrise II and Panasonic FC in Horizon in the PS section.

For output capacitors, I use Nichicon FG in Sunrise II
Nichicon KW in Horizon (There is not a proper spec in FG for Horizon that I can obtain)

KZ Muse - Nichicon are not available in the proper 2200uF value for output caps. As you stated, 1000uF works, but rolls off the bottom more which is not acceptable for me.

Oh, sorry, the Nichicon KW look too similar to FG so i thought you did .
About output cap, i think the sunrise and indeed have the same cut-off frequency if using the same cap value then when using the low ohm superlux 681 with my modded g2, i definetily can't tell if there is any different between 470uf and 1000uf

[Deleted]

G2 with 470uF and Superlux HP has 5.5Hz (-3dB) bottom frequency, so 20Hz @ -0.5dB, which is as 'flat and extended' as one needs to have in THIS particular case.

For Sunrise/Horizon things are different because of the minimal output resistance that can be selected and 16 Ohm HP's can be driven with the Sunrise (II).
To drive a 16 Ohm HP on low Output resistance setting and to keep the -0.5dB point (and, more important, phase shifts) below the audible range (16Hz) a 2200uF is needed.

If you would only drive 300 Ohm headphones a 100uF cap will suffice already and a 2200uF will be indistinguishable from a 100uF cap in that case.

[raduschka]

hello all,
I have just received my sunrise 2 kit and can't wait to get started, although I might have to wait a while since I have just become a father, last Sunday morning. I have a question: the rgb led is a puny square without any leads and the PCB has only one hole and 3 contact spots to receive it. How do I go about soldering that? Thanks

Raduschka

[joethearachnid]

Hi,

The LED is a surface mount design (rather than the normal through-hole) so it's just soldered straight to the pads that you noticed. It's more fiddly than through hole, but I believe there should be detailed explanations in the build instructions.

-JoetheArachnid

[Deleted]

May 17, 2013 22:40:51 GMT joethearachnid said:

Hi,

The LED is a surface mount design (rather than the normal through-hole) so it's just soldered straight to the pads that you noticed. It's more fiddly than through hole, but I believe there should be detailed explanations in the build instructions.

-JoetheArachnid

Sometimes it helps to read the actual thread.
Page 1 for example is where this was covered by the supplier of the kit..