|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 3, 2010 21:15:46 GMT
Look forward to the updates, interesting design supplied with what looks to be a nice selection of parts so hopes are high it has the performance to match . Think about it Leo..... side to side (L/R) you are getting almost IDENTICAL results from your measurements.... not (for example) 1.5V L / 1.8V R..... more like 1.5V / 1.5V! The power caps.... each and EVERY one of them came in at 28V (+/- 500mV) ... the transistors, pretty much identical readings (voltage).... in fact, EVERYTHING I probed on the left was virtually identical to that probed on the right. Most commercial / kit amps show a bit of, erm, "diversity" between channels.... not this puppy..... spot on across the board  That WOULD suggest to me that the parts used (especially the resistors) are genuine 0.1% 15ppm types.... if they are not genuine then I would like to buy up boxes of them at a cheap price! Totally kosher parts IMO (and believe me I have looked at them CLOSELY)... genuine 7 wiper ALPS, ELNA for Audio caps confirmed as kosher by Cliff B from ELNA, Genuine Dale resistors.... it's ALL good stuff as the measurements have shown. I spent 4 hours today probing the live circuit and there is not ONE part of it that differs between channels (assuming a 2% tolerance)..... It's a rare occasion where my postman has to spray me down with pepper dust but I feel one of those painful moments coming on..... I am sitting at the letterbox, with my tongue hanging out, eagerly awaiting the enclosure  |
|
|
|
Post by clausdk on Sept 3, 2010 22:31:14 GMT
I am working on your enclosure Mike, I am almost finished the glue/sawing part and will start the sanding part very soon.. You do not want a cheap chinese box, you want a handbuildt danish one.. Here is a foto of it so far  A real R.G box if I might add.. It will be much prettier once the sanding and finish is done.. |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 4, 2010 19:58:31 GMT
I am working on your enclosure Mike, I am almost finished the glue/sawing part and will start the sanding part very soon.. You do not want a cheap chinese box, you want a handbuildt danish one.. Here is a foto of it so far A real R.G box if I might add.. It will be much prettier once the sanding and finish is done.. Claus, your wooden enclosures are beautiful but please don't make one for me.... I have ordered the Chinese one which I have planned everything around and it will be a lot easier to mount my couplier kit in a relatively "thin" alu enclosure. The damned thing STILL hasn't arrived and it's starting to piss me off now as I want to get this amp housed and up and running.... hopefully it will touch down next week  |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 4, 2010 20:00:41 GMT
Can I use the torrodial from my Andante with this amp ?? It is 15 volts. No need. I will send you one of my transformers which is ready to go.... keep the andante complete mate. |
|
leo
Been here a while! 
Team wtf is it?
Posts: 3,638
|
Post by leo on Sept 4, 2010 22:50:54 GMT
Look forward to the updates, interesting design supplied with what looks to be a nice selection of parts so hopes are high it has the performance to match . Think about it Leo..... side to side (L/R) you are getting almost IDENTICAL results from your measurements.... not (for example) 1.5V L / 1.8V R..... more like 1.5V / 1.5V! The power caps.... each and EVERY one of them came in at 28V (+/- 500mV) ... the transistors, pretty much identical readings (voltage).... in fact, EVERYTHING I probed on the left was virtually identical to that probed on the right. Most commercial / kit amps show a bit of, erm, "diversity" between channels.... not this puppy..... spot on across the board That WOULD suggest to me that the parts used (especially the resistors) are genuine 0.1% 15ppm types.... if they are not genuine then I would like to buy up boxes of them at a cheap price! Totally kosher parts IMO (and believe me I have looked at them CLOSELY)... genuine 7 wiper ALPS, ELNA for Audio caps confirmed as kosher by Cliff B from ELNA, Genuine Dale resistors.... it's ALL good stuff as the measurements have shown. I spent 4 hours today probing the live circuit and there is not ONE part of it that differs between channels (assuming a 2% tolerance)..... It's a rare occasion where my postman has to spray me down with pepper dust but I feel one of those painful moments coming on..... I am sitting at the letterbox, with my tongue hanging out, eagerly awaiting the enclosure Nice! I'd imagine folks will be curious how it compares against the likes of the SCHA, Chiarra etc. Could be the start of another long thread  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2010 23:12:12 GMT
Leo
That seems highly unlikely, as there only seem to have been limited numbers available. Perhaps they were remnants from the original manufacturer ?
Alex
|
|
leo
Been here a while!
Team wtf is it?
Posts: 3,638
|
Post by leo on Sept 4, 2010 23:25:25 GMT
I didn't think of that, oh well  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2010 7:25:05 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by clausdk on Sept 5, 2010 7:42:15 GMT
Claus, your wooden enclosures are beautiful but please don't make one for me.... I have ordered the Chinese one which I have planned everything around and it will be a lot easier to mount my couplier kit in a relatively "thin" alu enclosure. Hmmm it was made with you in mind, but then I will save time as I just will use it myself and do not have to build another one.. Let me know if you change your mind.. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2010 10:14:56 GMT
My kit of parts arrived yesterday, there is a lot of bits and bobs ::)still waiting on my enclosure,probably be a week or so yet, will get started on it ASAP The seller has informed me that he will be making more kits available as from the 8th September on ebay. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2010 18:57:34 GMT
So Mick, have you put your whole life on hold and built it yet  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2010 20:36:58 GMT
So Mick, have you put your whole life on hold and built it yet LOL ;D Well lets put it this way Chris!! I have just moded my G2 to the Frans spec, but with my own base plate does it work! does it f""k. Gone to Frans to be put right, spent about 8hrs doing that, made a lovely job, looks brilliant but doesn`t work. So with that in mind, i might have this Panda completed and probably not running, in time to be mounted on my grave stone, with the words. "I WAS NEVER AN ELECTRICIAN BUT I TRIED".  |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 5, 2010 21:13:04 GMT
So Mick, have you put your whole life on hold and built it yet LOL ;D Well lets put it this way Chris!! I have just moded my G2 to the Frans spec, but with my own base plate does it work! does it f""k. Gone to Frans to be put right, spent about 8hrs doing that, made a lovely job, looks brilliant but doesn`t work. So with that in mind, i might have this Panda completed and probably not running, in time to be mounted on my grave stone, with the words. "I WAS NEVER AN ELECTRICIAN BUT I TRIED". I'm busy at the moment Mick but if you would like me to put it together for you then no problems at all.... postage each way down to you.... if you think you can do it though, go for it as there is nothing more satisfying than firing up a hand made amp that actually works! If you can solder and if you ensure that everything goes where it is meant to go then you should have no problems. If you feel it's a bit too much then I'll be more than happy to populate the board for you Mike. |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 5, 2010 21:19:26 GMT
By the way..... I'd rather put one together than take one apart.... these double sided PCB / through hole plated pads are a BITCH to desolder! As far as I'm concerned, once a component is "in" on these boards it's staying in!!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 5, 2010 21:41:56 GMT
Thanks Mike, but i don`t give up that easily, i will certainly give it a go, the only problem i have if it does not work, is finding out way. The soldering!!, i think Frans would agree, is as good as most i have seen, so i know there`s not much wrong with the G2, but with my very limited knowledge of electronics, how the hell do i track down what`s causing the problem apart from checking the obvious possibilities. Thanks again Mike, if i need any help, i will certainly ask.  |
|
|
|
Post by clausdk on Sept 5, 2010 22:26:18 GMT
"I WAS NEVER AN ELECTRICIAN BUT I TRIED". A very cool gravestone, just go for it Mick it is not that hard to populate the board as everything is written on it.. Well famous last words as I have not completed mine just yet, still need the second shipment from Mike, the caps came in today THANKS Mike.. But I asume that it will work why should it not ?? I used a desolderpump a lot to avoid big blobs of solder on the board and as far as I can see none of my soldering is touching eachother(s).. It is nowhere near as pretty as Mikes work though..   Not the best pictures I have taken, but will try again in the daylight |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2010 18:38:58 GMT
So Mick, have you put your whole life on hold and built it yet LOL ;D Well lets put it this way Chris!! I have just moded my G2 to the Frans spec, but with my own base plate does it work! does it f""k. Gone to Frans to be put right, spent about 8hrs doing that, made a lovely job, looks brilliant but doesn`t work. So with that in mind, i might have this Panda completed and probably not running, in time to be mounted on my grave stone, with the words. "I WAS NEVER AN ELECTRICIAN BUT I TRIED". This was the reply i received from Frans regarding my G2 Amp after he received it, and carried out a fault finding inspection on my efforts.
Hi Mick,
I think there was little to perhaps nothing wrong with it.
Because you didn't do the 'blue LED' mod the 6.5 Volt was only there with a valve in it.
It was wired correctly and functioning as it should.
The LM317's get extremely hot when no tube is mounted.
So far no smoked or destroyed parts.
I took the liberty of putting isolation sets on the FET's (this way your cooling towers do not carry 24V anymore and won't be able to destroy stuff connected with long RCA plugs anymore.
Also I resoldered some stuff and modified the startup relay circuit so it will work better/more reliable.
Will be looking for gold plated 6.3 mm socket too.
Had to replace the cathode caps because it looked like 1 LM317's solder joints was touching the - of the cap.
Inspection revealed it was not... but almost did.
Hope to get it working and adjusted and ready to send back in a few days. Perhaps i am not such a dummy as i thought i was, this has given me a lot more confidence to proceed with the build of this Amp kit.  Mick. |
|
|
|
Post by clausdk on Sept 7, 2010 23:31:09 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 9, 2010 7:46:35 GMT
Still no sightings of this enclosure!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2010 8:28:39 GMT
Still no sightings of this enclosure! Same here Mike. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2010 17:32:32 GMT
Just thinking out loud here. Would this make a decent quality line pre-amp? What changes would be necessary to the output stage to make it compatible with power amps?  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2010 20:14:11 GMT
An input selector with the needed RCA's on the input and 100 Ohm output resistors connected to some output RCA's. A bit 'overkill' to use it for driving a power amp though. You can almost use it as a power amp. Wouldn't recommend using it as a power amp with it's 10 Ohms emitter resistors and 2.2 Ohm power line resistors mind you.  These parts might feel the heat ! |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 9, 2010 20:31:32 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 9, 2010 20:42:50 GMT
Oh shit.... Just noticed I have slightly melted the sleeve on one of the power caps A bit too heavy handed with the heat gun No worries as it's only a plastic "sleeve" By the way guys I have plenty of "rod" left over so if you are going to extend your shaft I'll send you a length.... you will still need a couplier and a mounting bush for the front panel. The front panel has an 8mm hole so you will have to drill it out to 10mm to get the mounting bush to fit. A good idea to pack the mounting bush with grease too, it makes for a lovely smooth action. I'm not quite sure about the switch.... I think you have to manually mount a LED on top and this will shine through the nylon outer cover of the knob when the amp is switched on.... I'll experiment with it tomorrow. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2010 21:27:53 GMT
That looks very smart Mike. The internal shots look better than most consumer products you peep into!
I was under the impression the LED was integral with the switch?
Dean0 used one for his SCHA (sold-on) as did someone else,hmmm, Juke maybe?
Maybe the spec. changed, they don't mention it on the item details now.
Chris
|
|
