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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 2, 2010 14:26:37 GMT
Not on my personal one Alex, no... in Ian's Panda I will encase everything in a little shielded ABS box  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2010 14:52:57 GMT
Not on my personal one Alex, no... in Ian's Panda I will encase everything in a little shielded ABS box My new headphones attached to a Panda:  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 2, 2010 22:32:18 GMT
Not on my personal one Alex, no... in Ian's Panda I will encase everything in a little shielded ABS box My new headphones attached to a Panda: Don't be silly |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 11:25:05 GMT
. Thats good to know Mike, sounds a very useful material will order some on Tuesday when i get home  Mick. |
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Post by clausdk on Oct 3, 2010 16:29:36 GMT
Only a coat of wax from being finished.. This is the topplate    The colours are a bit dull, due to the raw wood, will show pictures after waxing.. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 16:38:52 GMT
Only a coat of wax from being finished.. This is the topplate The colours are a bit dull, due to the raw wood, will show pictures after waxing.. Looking very nice claus, nice work and different from norm which i do like to see, well done, lets have some photo`s after waxing. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 17:18:14 GMT
...as Mick said x2.
Claus, do you make the whole thing from wooden staves or use a veneer, or panels of ready fastened staves or....?
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Post by clausdk on Oct 3, 2010 17:32:52 GMT
...as Mick said x2. Claus, do you make the whole thing from wooden staves or use a veneer, or panels of ready fastened staves or....? Staves, that I glue toogether, it is actually a wodden floor i use.. I have mounted the PCB upside down on the cieling in the box.. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 17:36:25 GMT
...as Mick said x2. Claus, do you make the whole thing from wooden staves or use a veneer, or panels of ready fastened staves or....? Staves, that I glue toogether, it is actually a wodden floor i use.. I have mounted the PCB upside down on the cieling in the box..  Fancy building me a 14inch piccolo snare drum!  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 17:38:18 GMT
I thought so too Mick but when I went to order it was £9 post, mainland only. Non-mainland, Highlands etc is all 'enquire for quote" so I located some on a soon-ending uncontested auction for £10 including postage. I now have severe doubts its the same type of product so I'll probably end up paying twice  Syd |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 3, 2010 19:04:03 GMT
I thought so too Mick but when I went to order it was £9 post, mainland only. Non-mainland, Highlands etc is all 'enquire for quote" so I located some on a soon-ending uncontested auction for £10 including postage. I now have severe doubts its the same type of product so I'll probably end up paying twice Syd Bloody hell..... it wasn't £9.50 last time I ordered  Thing is, I think the £9.50 is a standard charge and if your ordered 100 rolls of the stuff it would still be £9.50. I'll be buying a couple more rolls soon so if anybody wants a roll let me know.... it will save a LOT on shipping. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 3, 2010 19:05:33 GMT
Only a coat of wax from being finished.. This is the topplate The colours are a bit dull, due to the raw wood, will show pictures after waxing.. That looks lovely Claus What are you going to finish it with? Tung oil is very good stuff to work with. |
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Post by Koolind on Oct 3, 2010 19:13:27 GMT
Claus - what a great looking box ! The use of another type of wood at the corners gives it a bit more edge.. very cool !
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 3, 2010 20:34:06 GMT
Ian, good news..... I fired your one up this afternoon and she's working great Just waiting for the enclosure to arrive now. I matched you up a pot which tracks perfectly (or as near as damn it) so I think you'll be pretty pleased with the precision of the channels. I was going to fit a stepped attenuator for you but don't want to spoil the recipe.... I want Panda 2 to sound exactly the same as Panda 1. I will then mess about with Panda 3 (when I've built it) and see if Panda 1 can be improved on... if so then it's a simple case of sending me Panda 2 and I will fit any "improvements" if / when they are available. These days I like to live with an amp for maybe 6 months... really get to know it.... and then start messing about with it The beauty of having two is you always have the stock one to compare with.... "memory mods" are the worst possible type to perform as you don't have anything to compare to apart from your memory which (9 times out of 10) can't remember EXACTLY what the amp sounded like and your mind kind of kicks in with large doses of placebo and convinces you that the modded version sounds better (even if it sounds worse!)..... the amount of people who fit "Black Gates" and then declare the result as a "miracle" can't even remember what the amp sounded like before.... their sub conscience is telling them that the amp with the "Black Gates" must be better / IS better because they are "Black Gates" for christ sakes..... how can it sound "worse" with these UBER expensive caps on board..... your sub conscience drives your conscious mind after all. You then go onto a forum looking for validation and will associate with all the other "Black Gate" gang.... You will home in on all the "positive" comments and dismiss any negative ones.... why? Because you don't want to look like an idiot.... if you start to doubt your belief (or "argue" with your sub conscience) it takes you out of your comfort zone and you feel bad. I call the memory mod the "self talk" mod. Your creative sub conscience only acts on what it is told.... if you are taught that black is white and white is black from an early age then you will not believe people when they tell you that black is black and white is white. Similarly, if you are (incorrectly) taught or "believe" that a certain type of capacitor or resistor (or anything) is the BEST then your sub conscience will control your conscious thought without you even knowing it's doing so! Therefore, if you go into a mod with the built in belief that XYZ components sound the "best" there is NO WAY, after fitting them, that your sub conscious mind will disagree with you.... it will instruct your conscious mind that you have done the correct thing.... This is known as the comfort zone. You are only nervous or agitated when you are outwith your comfort zone.... This is a conflict between your self talk (what you have fed into your sub conscious) and your conscious mind. Remember, the creative sub conscious acts on what you have told it (self talk). Let me give you a prime example..... have you ever lost a set of car keys? What's the first thing you say? "I have lost my car keys"..... you have told your sub conscious mind that you have lost them so the last thing it wants is for you to FIND them!! It now creates a Scotoma (a blind spot) to make sure you DON'T find them Ever heard the saying "Can't see the wood for the trees"? That's a scotoma, a blind spot.... your sub conscious, remember, only acts on what it has been told.... so you will be running about like a headless chicken for ages looking for those keys only to, eventually, find them in your POCKET! You scream out "who put them there!!".... you are now out of your comfort zone and can't believe they were in your pocket all the time.... this is your sub conscious conflicting with your conscious mind.... powerful stuff! We have all been taught to read in black and white instead of being taught to look at things from a different perspective which is why 90% of people can't see what is being communicated to them here:  Remember...... our sub conscience has been programmed (from an early age) to think in black and white Try thinking in white and black I can see it CLEARLY but to make it easier for those of you who don't think out of the box try the following: Look and concentrate at the + sign for 35 seconds and then blink your eyelids repeatedly..... what do you see? More importantly how do you "feel" after seeing this?.... disbelief?, amazement?, are you uncomfortable with it and want to know WHY you can see it? You can see it because the 35 seconds stare and blink is the easiest way..... once you have learn't to think "out" of the box it becomes a lot easier.... it's a gradual process of re- programming your sub conscience to accept that ANYTHING is possible.... some call this an "open mind" others dismiss it and prefer to stay in their black and white world..... It's all good but nice to know how to control our own sub conscious minds.... there IS an alternative to black and white. Quite what all this has to do with the PANDA amp I don't know Just trying to say that "memory mods" are as good as useless... you need at least two amps to compare and, even then, you need to have trained your sub conscience (your self talk) to think in colour Mike. |
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Post by clausdk on Oct 3, 2010 20:49:06 GMT
I am still thinking about what to coat/finish it, I wish that I could still get my hands on some "Patina" from Langglow, but there is no danish supplier  I am not even sure if it should have a gloss.. Spraylack is also spooking around.. Spent more time building the box than the amp. (this is the 3. one ) Messurements 27*22*10.  The silikonetube works like a charm and you were right Lars it is indeed very bendable to 25 degrees or so  I put in the Oakedges to break the pattern and add a little detail, it also helped keep the staves in sync.. I almost made a frame all the way round the frontplate, but I rejected it because it would become to vulgar   I need a set of feet and I am not that happy about my knob either, I have been thinking about making one in the same wood and make the rod from the extension go all the way through to make a light dot in the middle, it would go nicely with the edges.. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 20:51:16 GMT
Brilliant Mike. I'm all geared up for a solid listen. I agree that it is a really good idea to have a stock for comparison purposes. You can talk yourself into anything and it also depends on what exactly you're listening to. These days I like to live with an amp for maybe 6 months... really get to know it.... and then start messing about with itIt takes a lot of recordings to properly identify the strengths and weaknesses of anything. I hear the obvious straight away and then subtleties creep in at odd times when you just don't expect it. Especially listening to stuff you're really familiar with. I don't want to give the answer away but I can see it!! Like a black and white photograph, clear as day. (or is it clear as night) The longer you look, the brighter it becomes and clearer. I've always wondered why you type in white. Maybe it should be called an Adnap. Remember, I'm the screen sniffer who sees 3d ...... Does that mean I've got golden eye balls? |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 3, 2010 21:33:47 GMT
Claus, the heatshrink coupler is a good idea but it will fail with usage... (tried it a few years ago) you either need a "couplier" (a "coupler" in English) or just mount the pot on the fascia. I have experimented with all sorts of couplings and the best (if you don't want to buy a couplier kit) is to araldite (epoxy resin) the two shafts together and supplement with heatshrink sleeving.... it will eventually "break". You are better off going with a proper shaft extension kit from day one. The only "commercially" available kit I know of is www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/extension-kit-p-2195.htmlRobbing bastards but a "tenner" may save you a lot of time Mike. |
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Post by clausdk on Oct 3, 2010 21:39:22 GMT
It is not a heatshrink it is airtube for aquariums and when they have been sitting on an airoutlet for some time they are very hard to remove I will give it a chance to work, if it does not I will buy a proper one..  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 3, 2010 21:44:16 GMT
I am still thinking about what to coat/finish it, I wish that I could still get my hands on some "Patina" from Langglow, but there is no danish supplier I am not even sure if it should have a gloss.. Spraylack is also spooking around.. Spent more time building the box than the amp. (this is the 3. one ) Messurements 27*22*10. The silikonetube works like a charm and you were right Lars it is indeed very bendable to 25 degrees or so I put in the Oakedges to break the pattern and add a little detail, it also helped keep the staves in sync.. I almost made a frame all the way round the frontplate, but I rejected it because it would become to vulgar I need a set of feet and I am not that happy about my knob either, I have been thinking about making one in the same wood and make the rod from the extension go all the way through to make a light dot in the middle, it would go nicely with the edges.. Teak / Tung oil is easy to work with and will enhance the 70's feel you are recreating |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 22:44:23 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2010 22:50:19 GMT
Nah, that's only most Electronics Engineers .  Don't MOST people have dreams in colour ? I feel sorry for those that aren't so lucky. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2010 0:23:57 GMT
That's a clean version of one I saw a long time ago, I've just been trying to find it again but to no avail. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2010 0:55:13 GMT
It is not a heatshrink it is airtube for aquariums and when they have been sitting on an airoutlet for some time they are very hard to remove I will give it a chance to work, if it does not I will buy a proper one.. If it's anything like the reinforced tubing used in food and drink applications it'll do the trick nicely. I tried to remove some from a beer pump when we moved the business, no chance, had to cut it off! From that experience I used some to support a ceiling pendant lamp of approx 3kg (sort of invisible chain if you like), nearly 2 years later it has not budged an iota. |
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Post by MaN227 on Oct 4, 2010 5:02:19 GMT
@claus Mike took the words out of my mouth. tung oil would be nice, takes many coats. but it depends most on the openness of the woods graining. . you could simply wax that bad boy. its gonna look sweet. any way you do it. I have a gut feeling something like minwax american walnut would look quite nice, I did a picture frame I made out of Mahogany with american walnut stain and I was most pleased, thats what your wood looks like to me and with some stains it can come out very red looking. . If you wonder what It looks like I can try to snap a few shots of the frame and send them to you. lemme know man. you just edge glue and clamp the wood bits, scrap glue then run through surface planer, then cut sections to size, and rabbit the edges, glue and clamp? just curious , I miss working with wood, I found it very gratifying. I didn't notice any showing on the face of the box, but be careful if you have endgrain exposed as it could well take whatever finish you apply and drink in more of it, and it'll be much darker than the straight grains beside it. some how I feel you'll know what I mean. can't wait to see the finished box, very nice mate  sorry, ok, all now back to your amp discussion. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 4, 2010 19:30:48 GMT
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Thing is, I think the £9.50 is a standard charge and if your ordered 100 rolls of the stuff it would still be £9.50.
