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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2010 22:26:54 GMT
These any good  On a more helpful note, @ Mick, 1M = 1 mega ohm (1,000,000 ohm) resistor. Thanks Chris, cant beat a nice joint now and again either  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2010 22:32:41 GMT
Well i have all the resistors and diodes in the board awaiting soldering, all parts accounted for with no spare resistors or diodes left over. Looking good so far ;D Mick. PS Mike, what are the two small blue ones(look like resistors) that go in the two 1M positions on the board, are they resistors!!!!!!.  I don't have the kit so can't be 100% but I am sure Dale resistors are available in blue , its possible the brown ones don't do a value as high as 1meg so they provided an alternative series of Dale resistor which comes in a different colour. is there a number printed on the body ? something like 105 ? Hi Leo, There is something printed on there, to small for me to read without a magnifying glass, look tomorrow in daylight, that`s a very high value 1000000 ohms.  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 9:45:50 GMT
the 1M position may also have resistors of anything between 100kOhm and 10MOhm
It does not matter at all which you put in as the resistance of this part of the circuit is defined by the vol pot.
0 Ohm when vol pot is at minimum and the value of the output resistance of the source when the volpot is at max unless an output capacitor is used, in this case the max vol pot resistance.
The resistor is there for only one reason being to 'ground' the input stage when the center contact of the volpot does not make contact with the resistance track.
This is only possible when the pot is old and worn and 'scratches'.
It's functions as a 'safequard' preventing DC at the output in this case.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 10:13:44 GMT
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Post by clausdk on Sept 26, 2010 10:16:26 GMT
Looks good mick, you must be a proffessional..
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 10:35:26 GMT
Looks good mick, you must be a proffessional.. Hi claus, I wish, ;D Doing the Frans mods on my G2,( which sounds fantastic now) and getting them 99.9% correct, has given me a lot more confidence for this build. I am a complete novice, but i take my time and double check everything as i go, Mikes photo`s have been a great help, patience is required as i hope to get it right first time, as trying to "track" down a fault after completing the build, would be a nightmare for me. Mick. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 11:17:49 GMT
Very nice Mick It doesn't really matter but if you wanted to be "really" pedantic you would position all the resistors with their values showing on the top.... this would clearly show you that (for example) 300R was fitted to the 300R position on the board etc. etc. That's the good thing with those Dale resistors they have the actual "value" printed on them and are not colour coded. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 11:22:39 GMT
That's the kind of patience that I don't have Mick!! I'm like a bull in a China shop until things like that are done.
So far so good. Well done.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 11:27:21 GMT
Very nice Mick It doesn't really matter but if you wanted to be "really" pedantic you would position all the resistors with their values showing on the top.... this would clearly show you that (for example) 300R was fitted to the 300R position on the board etc. etc. That's the good thing with those Dale resistors they have the actual "value" printed on them and are not colour coded. Yes that makes sense Mike, will try to sort that when soldering, i am itching to crack on now.  Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 11:28:01 GMT
That's the kind of patience that I don't have Mick!! I'm like a bull in a China shop until things like that are done. So far so good. Well done. Mike's suggestion is even better, as it makes double checking later on far easier.Most of us plow on even when we are tired, so mistakes do happen. Many resistor values can't be checked by a DMM after the PCB is soldered. Alex |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 11:38:05 GMT
That's the kind of patience that I don't have Mick!! I'm like a bull in a China shop until things like that are done. So far so good. Well done. Thanks Ian, Can but try, no rush, sooner take a LOT LONGER and hopefully get it built right first time. I find this kind of work very therapeutic and relaxing, with a sense of achievement, even when things go wrong. ATB. Mick. |
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Post by Koolind on Sept 26, 2010 12:40:00 GMT
I was wondering; Will any 18v toroidal work for this purpose? I see that Mike talked about 50vac being fine?
Do you have any recomandations for specific toroidals suitable for this kit?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 12:57:39 GMT
I was wondering; Will any 18v toroidal work for this purpose? I see that Mike talked about 50vac being fine? Do you have any recomandations for specific toroidals suitable for this kit? 18 volt toroidal / 50VA is what the manufacturer recommends. This is the type of thing you are looking for. |
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Post by Koolind on Sept 26, 2010 13:24:23 GMT
I was wondering; Will any 18v toroidal work for this purpose? I see that Mike talked about 50vac being fine? Do you have any recomandations for specific toroidals suitable for this kit? 18 volt toroidal / 50VA is what the manufacturer recommends. This is the type of thing you are looking for.Any recomandations from a place other than rapidonline ? they seem to have good products and its quite cheap, BUT the shipping to Denmark is 30£ !! 37 for air-mail, which makes it a bit of a deal-breaker for people outside UK I suppose that the quality of the toroidal is quite important for the final sound-quality to avoid noice etc.? Am i correct in thinking this, or will nearly any 18v 50vac do the trick? |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 13:56:15 GMT
DENMARK TRANSFORMER kr 103,50 which is about £11.50 GBP Part number: 671-9104 dk.rs-online.com/web/The Nuvotem is quite a nice transformer, they are put together in the Czech Republic. Hope this helps......
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 14:06:11 GMT
Actually.... you are better with this one as it comes complete with the mounting hardware.... the other one doesn't. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 14:10:40 GMT
Or even this one I, personally, would not touch a clairtonics transformer with a bargepole... I had a lot of very bad experiences with that company (transformers that went on fire) and so did a few others I know.... they have now gone out of business. You are better off with the Vigortronix or Nuvotem. |
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Post by Koolind on Sept 26, 2010 14:39:08 GMT
Great, thank you.. Nuvotem it will be  Your help is very appreciated.. |
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Post by clausdk on Sept 26, 2010 14:56:36 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 16:23:57 GMT
At this very moment I am listening to "Bohemian Rhapsody" through my Panda ! ! Frans spend his weekend helping me getting it OK, it turned out it just needed adjustments   Thanks Frans  Also Thanks to Mike for helping me with parts I will put it in a box as soon as I have the time, some time next millenium ;D ;D This has been a good experience, another step up the learning stairs.. The sound ?? Amazing. A little light on the bass, but it has also under an hour running time.. It has a firm grip on the drivers and can deliver loads of power.. I have not yet tried any resistors on the output but I suspect it will make it even better Amazing that something that wonderfull can be put toogether by me and if I can do it, well then most can.. I got a collague who has a lot of panasonic cap and I will use them in the next kit, if I can buy them  He could BTW be reading this  well I am off to enjoy the music  Well done claus. Got there in the end, Frans did the same for me on my G2, he is a genius with electronics, really pleased for you. Enjoy Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 16:24:57 GMT
Great. I'm glad that it's worked for you Claus. The second one on it's way now? You'll be making them for everyone else next!!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 18:26:22 GMT
Excellent Claus! Try the 75R resistors I sent you... wrap and solder one side of them onto the headphone socket and then wire the output wires onto the other side of the resistor.... just like shown here  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2010 18:59:36 GMT
hi Claus top news and the best I've had today you can build mine for me now well done take care |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 26, 2010 19:07:12 GMT
Claus, As Frans says, best to fit output resistors I went straight in with the 75ohm ones and haven't tried any other values as 75R sounds PERFECT with my HD250ll linears and the HD-600. IIRC I sent you a few different values to try? |
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Post by Koolind on Sept 26, 2010 20:09:39 GMT
Claus, As Frans says, best to fit output resistors I went straight in with the 75ohm ones and haven't tried any other values as 75R sounds PERFECT with my HD250ll linears and the HD-600. IIRC I sent you a few different values to try? Wouldn't it be optimal to match the resistance to the headphone used ? I.e 300 ohm for hd-600.? Or 32 for using grado or k701 |
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