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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 12, 2010 19:57:22 GMT
That gunmetal looks great Mike, much better than pink ;D Cheers Shaun. It's actually a very nice finish for a spray can paint... it's Hycote "Rover Gunmetal".... a couple of quid a tin. Secret with any painting is the preparation (primer and key) and, being a very small item it's pretty easy to apply a nice uniform coating.... if it were a car wing or door then I'd always use a professional spray gun.... the spray cans just don't have the control for larger panels. Some 800 grade / 1200 grade wet or dry paper, a tin of white primer and a tin of gunmetal and you could probably spray three V-CANS for around £6 (£2 each)..... The finish doesn't need waxing but you can wax for a more lustrous appearance after a few weeks.... don't wax any sooner as you want to make sure all the solvent has evaporated out of the paint. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2010 21:16:44 GMT
Hi Mike and MR Rabbit. I know where you¡¦re coming from and agree that a proper PSU should help the sound  I have a history with voltage regulators  , starting with valve ones based around 6080 @ 580Vand such like. Then I got into solid state based on 317's @300v and for filament supplies. A few years ago I came across the TEDDYREG circuit which has a 317 pre reg with a D44H11, 2N5460 gyrator. I made the TR adjustable to use as a bench supply good for 1amp ish  . I've had one hooked up to my Squeezebox Duet for some time now and the difference in SQ to my ears is quite obvious. Much clearer, sharper and better at the frequency extremes. I've read that adding a linear supply makes no difference because the Duet has some on board switchers but that's not my experience. I've also had one on the V-CAN again so much better than the supplied switcher. So yes I'm into linear regs in most cases in a big way and will be trying a little pinkie by way of comparison when the money tree grows a bit more Oh yes just as an aside, I¡¦ve had a play with the X-FEED in a mint tin (tobacco tin in my case) and I like it. More natural sounding to me, thanks again  Take care. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 15, 2010 21:31:43 GMT
Shaun, Feel free to divulge All the best, Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2010 23:41:54 GMT
Hi Mike I found the teddyreg on pink fish media forum www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39990I’m not that technical but managed to cobble one together and get it working first time. I built them on varo board (can't resist the hardwire). The parts i've used are mostly from maplins, the fets and TX from RS. So not my own work but in the public domain hope that helps take care |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 9:37:43 GMT
Many thanks to Mike The 1644 op-amp he sent me is brilliant, got about 20hrs on it now, and it really is a sweet sounding little amp, now for a make over on the enclosure to finish the job off. Thanks again Mike |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 9:54:28 GMT
I agree Mick. The 1644 adds a lovely depth to the V-Can. You were right to wait too. I think that it actually improved after a week. Of all the amps I have, this one has to be an absolute bargain. It has a really addictive sound. The only thing I don't like about them is the daft casing. I'm think of going gloss red.......  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 10:32:54 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 11:11:57 GMT
Hey ..... Habla Espanol y usted es Ingles? Muy bien. Hay muchos Ingles en Espana pero no halblan Espanol. Compre un V-Can . Es realmente bien pero necessita Mike para mirarlo y necissata un 'Little Pinkie' tambien. Pardon my French.  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 12:04:49 GMT
Zut alors, mon ami! Sí, es realmente malo. Mi español no es muy buena pero es mucho mejor que la mayoría de Inglés que han vivido aquí mucho más tiempo. Luego se quejan cuando las empresas españolas y las autoridades no hablan Inglés! Ejem, ¿qué país está usted viviendo? (I had to go to Google to get the accents, takes too long with "insert symbol"  ) This is the point when a true Spanish speaker tells us we've just trashed the language ;D Miguel? I can't justify a v-can.....unless I off-load my least favourite...  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 12:39:22 GMT
;D
Sorry Miguel. I promise to listen to a Grado for at least a day. I couldn't be bothered with the accents!!!
You know, the funny thing about all this gear is that i find myself naturally listening to certain things all of the time and it's not particularly associated with quality.
I use the Neco portabe all of the time.
Porta Pros or Senn PX100
Pocket amp. Ipod Nano or Classic.
Filo E5.
(All cheap stuff!!)
For a special treat I use the X-Can or the V-Can but just on special occasions!!!
Terrible isn't it?
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jul 26, 2010 15:03:25 GMT
Who cares about the language? Instead think of ...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 15:52:58 GMT
Gawd. That comes up big when you click on it!!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2010 16:52:53 GMT
Yes so do i at the moment Ian, got a real taste for it on holiday. Works really well with the Senn250`s, a really great little amp, i prefer its SQ over its big brother`s, no need to spend a fortune to get excellent SQ. Mick. |
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jul 26, 2010 21:57:40 GMT
Gawd. That comes up big when you click on it!! Is that a problem? ;D |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 4, 2010 21:06:09 GMT
I've got 15 virgin V-CAN's in stock and will be happy to modify each of them "to order".
Each will come with the full X-CAP, opamp and gain mods as shown here and the work will be guaranteed for a period of 7 years.
Price for a fully modded V-CAN is £150 GBP shipped (worldwide).
All modded V-CANS will ship with the stock (UK) 3 pin wallwart..... a regulated, Linear DC Little Pinkie PSU will be an extra £100 GBP (£250 GBP shipped worldwide).
If you are interested please PM me.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2010 13:13:31 GMT
Mike,
where does that red wire that is soldered to the op-amp shown in your photo`s of your moded V-CAN go to underneath the board, do i need to do the same on my V-CAN!!!.
Thanks. Mick.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 5, 2010 20:30:29 GMT
Mike, where does that red wire that is soldered to the op-amp shown in your photo`s of your moded V-CAN go to underneath the board, do i need to do the same on my V-CAN!!!. Thanks. Mick. Hi Mick, It's not a tweak.... I lifted a pad on the underside of the board so wired to the opamp direct. Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2010 20:44:45 GMT
Thanks Mike.
Mick.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 6, 2010 20:12:51 GMT
I was modding one of these today and used the stock wallwart when I was testing it.... I was quite shocked to find the "12V" stock wallwart was actually outputting 22 volts!
A word of caution to anyone using a stock wallwart with one of my kits..... the 2 x 2200uF capacitors (just behind the DC inlet) are only rated at 16 volts so they will need to be replaced with 25V types.
If you are using a Little Pinkie with your V-CAN then no need to do anything, the Pinkie outputs a steady 13.5V (no load) and drops to 12V under load.
Maybe the stock wallwart I measured was a "rogue".... I will test 3 or 4 tomorrow and see how they measure up.... if any of you have a multimeter it would be interesting to see what your stock wallwarts output.
Set your meter on the DC range and probe between tip and sleeve on the 1.3mm DC plug (with the wallwart plugged in and switched ON)..... sleeve is the outside of the plug barrel and tip is the hole inside the barrel.
Fortunately, I haven't sold many of these kits and will be shipping with 25V caps from here on in. I will do my best to notify the (very few) people who may be affected but if you are reading this, have fitted a V-CAN kit "and" use the stock wallwart please contact me and I'll send the 25V caps out immediately.
Mike.
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Aug 6, 2010 20:40:27 GMT
Mike, is there also possible danger for the stock components of the V-Can?
My stock wallwarts have an 2-pin Euro-plug mains connector (not UK). As soon as I get a mulitmeter in my hands, I'll have a closer look. It will take some time since I don't have an own multimeter. Probably not a bad idea to get one...
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 6, 2010 21:11:55 GMT
Mike, is there also possible danger for the stock components of the V-Can? My stock wallwarts have an 2-pin Euro-plug mains connector (not UK). As soon as I get a mulitmeter in my hands, I'll have a closer look. It will take some time since I don't have an own multimeter. Probably not a bad idea to get one... No No..... don't worry. Worst possible case scenario, those 2 x 16 V caps will blow a gasket and that will be "lights out"...... it will be a simple matter of replacing them with the 25V caps. Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2010 21:18:43 GMT
Hi Mike,
What was the output voltage of this wallwart when it has an amp attached to it ?
If it falls below 14V there is no need to increase the voltage rating of the caps IMO.
Wallwarts have 'normal' transformers and these things have bad 'regulation' or in other words a high internal resistance giving only the specified voltage when loaded with the specified current.
Toroids have better regulation and have lower internal resistance so their voltage doesn't drop as much when loaded.
I would get rid of the wallwart anyway and get myself a Pinky.
@ Elysion, Sometimes LIDL and ALDI sell cheap DMM (Digital Multimeters) and although these do not measure small AC voltages (below 1V AC) very well they are quite good at measuring everything else and don't need to cost more then 10 Euros.
The DC and resistance settings usually are quite accurate also.
Can be found on ebay too.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 6, 2010 21:30:51 GMT
Let me clarify this.... The STOCK V-CAN does come with 25V caps in this position. My kit employs 16V caps in this position as there is only 12V across them with my Power supply. So..... I "stupidly" assumed that the stock wallwarts run at 12V under load.... this will teach me to never "assume". Bottom line, I've made a balls up. A "minor" one but still a balls up The MF wallwart is NOT 12V, it can run at anything between 10 - 25V.... it is a piece of unreliable / cheap junk...... I will now ship my kits with 25V caps. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 6, 2010 21:32:31 GMT
Hi Mike, What was the output voltage of this wallwart when it has an amp attached to it ? Around 19V!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 6, 2010 21:38:45 GMT
Smoking !... no problem for standard caps but it clearly is for 16V ones.
The ones that have bought your upgrade kits should buy your Pinky anyway IMO.
dropping from 22V to 14V was asking a bit too much anyway... even for crappy warts.
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, starting with valve ones based around 6080 @ 580Vand such like. Then I got into solid state based on 317's @300v and for filament supplies. A few years ago I came across the TEDDYREG circuit which has a 317 pre reg with a D44H11, 2N5460 gyrator. I made the TR adjustable to use as a bench supply good for 1amp ish 
. I've had one hooked up to my Squeezebox Duet for some time now and the difference in SQ to my ears is quite obvious. Much clearer, sharper and better at the frequency extremes. I've read that adding a linear supply makes no difference because the Duet has some on board switchers but that's not my experience. I've also had one on the V-CAN again so much better than the supplied switcher. So yes I'm into linear regs in most cases in a big way and will be trying a little pinkie by way of comparison when the money tree grows a bit more
)
