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Post by krisno on Feb 5, 2009 21:02:53 GMT
It's not like 'the yulong is somewhat better' or 'more fun'.... the V2 is extremly painful using my k701. It really is annoying. This is a £400 investment for me. Its not like 'I don't just somewhat dont like it'....
But it is known as a bright one, and I didn't know that before it was too late. hehe. My own fault, though maybe your praise on it was more than I could take!
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leo
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Post by leo on Feb 5, 2009 21:35:19 GMT
Burson HA-100 headphone amp. If thats based on their discrete op-amps it may be interesting, I've never heard it though so can't comment on its performance
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 21:40:57 GMT
It's not like 'the yulong is somewhat better' or 'more fun'.... the V2 is extremly painful using my k701. It really is annoying. This is a £400 investment for me. Its not like 'I don't just somewhat dont like it'.... But it is known as a bright one, and I didn't know that before it was too late. hehe. My own fault, though maybe your praise on it was more than I could take! Kris Some people find the K701 too aggressive sounding, yet others love them. Increasing the value of the output resistor R114/R214 from 33 ohms to either 47 or 68 ohms .5W Metal Film, may also help tame the brightness. These resistors will be readily available locally from electronics shops, or perhaps a local repair shop may sell you a couple of each. They are very inexpensive, and you have nothing to lose by trying this change. SandyK
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Post by krisno on Feb 5, 2009 21:51:25 GMT
I think Mike is sending me two of them including the iron 'beads'. But guys, we need to fix this! I presume the NOS Reflector are not especially bright. So, what the heck in the discrete circuit is causing this. I can only think of two things. 1: The voltage regulator on the main board, it can be changed with soldering iron 2: The MOSFET output transistors on the main board. It is two of them... I believe these are the source of the damn problem. Can the be changed?? Either for 2 new of the same, OR if I can use some other transistors which are known to be softer sounding? ?? Anyone tried any of that? P.S. Mike, those beads, can you include two of those resistors Sandyk is talking about?
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Post by krisno on Feb 5, 2009 22:01:25 GMT
www.musicalfidelity.com/tune/xseries.html"X-CANV2 upgrade schedule Bypass PSU electrolytics with polycarbonate/polyester type Replace regulators with selected premium types Pure copper noise nulling belly band screen fitted to mains transformer Pure copper noise nulling screen fitted to PSU caps Replace ceramic bypass caps with polycarbonate/polyester type Realign volume control Precision re-bias Heater current, audio characteristics and transconductance matched Replace 4x medium power output transistors with precision matched pairs Replace all audio path electrolytics with low ESR, high temp. type Replace PSU caps with low ESR high temp type Replace bypass caps from ceramic to polycarbonate/polyester Replace 2x ECC88 tubes with precision matched pairs Log owner name, model and serial number in Musical Fidelity archives Issue certificate signed by Antony Michaelson Soak test for 48 hours Cost; £169 inc VAT. In the UK we will pay freight to your house. Overseas clients; all freight charges in both directions, customs clearance charges and duties at your cost. E & OE" What the heck is this?? MF do they own mods?? But anyways.. they write this: "Replace 4x medium power output transistors with precision matched pairs" ... Where can I get 'precision matched pairs', and what are their name, can I replace with something better? I will do that, then maybe brightness and harshness might be gone. ??
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 22:08:04 GMT
Krisno Mike is sending you a couple of resistors to reduce the abrupt action of the volume control. It is reasonably well documented , that reducing the resistance of the output resistor will normally appear to increase "brightness" slightly, and increasing the output resistor's value a little, will give a small perceived reduction in apparent "brightness."
N.B. Many of those Musical Fidelity modifications will INCREASE the perceived brightness. Many people find the original lacking in this area.
SandyK
P.S. It is highly likely that Mike is still in snowbound Wales, so there will most likely be a delay..
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leo
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Post by leo on Feb 5, 2009 22:14:00 GMT
The outputs are Darlington transistors, not Mosfets. I doubt replacing those would help much tbh
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Post by krisno on Feb 5, 2009 22:19:07 GMT
Darlington transistors? So they are not making the sharp highs you think? .... Guys, the russian tubes, are they known to be sharp, bright and harsh on the top-end? I dont think of them as the problem as they are brand new, and the amp sounded the same using the stock jan philips that it came with..
So there is not much to change then really.....
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Post by krisno on Feb 5, 2009 22:25:22 GMT
"Grain", what in audiophile glossary does it mean?... is grain = sharp highs? . When someone says the Tungsram tubes are grain free, does that mean no harsh highs?.
Any info on output transistor swap would be greatly appreciated
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2009 22:41:03 GMT
Krisno "grain" is usually due to a relatively high noise level, but it can also be due to distortion products. SandyK
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leo
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Post by leo on Feb 5, 2009 22:45:36 GMT
Darlington transistors? So they are not making the sharp highs you think? .... Guys, the russian tubes, are they known to be sharp, bright and harsh on the top-end? I dont think of them as the problem as they are brand new, and the amp sounded the same using the stock jan philips that it came with.. So there is not much to change then really..... A Darlington transistor is just a pair of transistors strapped inside a single case to increase HFE. Its possible you don't like the signature of this amp and AKG headphones, remember we all have different tastes. Normally sharp highs mean HF distortion. How loud do you run the amp in normal use?
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leo
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Post by leo on Feb 5, 2009 22:46:21 GMT
Krisno "grain" is usually due to a relatively high noise level, but it can also be due to distortion products. SandyK Beat me to it
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2009 1:33:40 GMT
You know if I did not already own an X-Can V2 and if I had bought the new Solo SRG I would be tempted to swap my Novo for Krisno's V2. I have listened to a few examples (4 to be exact) of the V2 and they all sound fantastic. Wonder what is going on w/ his V2. Miguel Let's see what those simple mods achieve first, before writing it off. The higher value output resistors may (hopefully) take the edge off it a little. Perhaps he is slowly coming to the realisation that Solid State RULES ? Alex
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Vallejos
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Post by Vallejos on Feb 6, 2009 8:12:08 GMT
Kris, If the little Pinkie doesn´t make the trick and if swapping tubes, changing the source or different cans does not help either I feel your best choice is sending the amp to someone for valuation. Then if the amp perfom as it should we know the MF V2 does not suite your preferences and you can pass it on and keep enjoying the Yulong
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Post by dejanm on Feb 6, 2009 8:48:51 GMT
Guys, the russian tubes, are they known to be sharp, bright and harsh on the top-end? I dont think of them as the problem as they are brand new, and the amp sounded the same using the stock jan philips that it came with.. So there is not much to change then really..... I found these Russian tubes to be very well extended in the hights. Normally I would seen that as something positive, but they tended to sound a bit "toppy" and harsh from time to time. So I exchanged them ... I believe that tube rolling is a must but I am not sure whether it is a real source of the problem.
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Post by krisno on Feb 6, 2009 9:37:43 GMT
SandyK: Yes, you are right about 'SS' rules. This thing sounds harsh only like tubes can do, that is the main problem with tubes in my opinion. I had the V3 and V8, and the V3 was sounding nothing like this V2, BUT still it was little fatiguing(sharp) in the long run, causing me to constantly fiddle with the volume and never listen to a whole CD album. The v8 was lusher, but still, it had that sharp 'edge' and was VERY laid back which made it boring.!
The cheap chinese Yulong never ever sounded harsh, no matter what source or album. It never was laid back, and I could listen at whole CD albums, no matter at what volume!!!! That is the amazing sweetness only solidstate can give.
BUT tubes sound magical from time to time and alot more realistic, specially on headphones they give this '3d' soundstage. But this V2 is so harsh... it's sad.
I will not get the Graham Slee with this large external PSU and running with op-amps, atleast not for 5 grand. The last I will ever get is a discrete high quality solidstate, and it will probably make me happy... but it will never be as magical as tubes. So well, its this compromise.
These HIGHER value output resistors will they make it pair up better with AKG?? Or they only change the 'gain'??
It must be something that can be changed here, I should not swapout the output transistors for something better??
K
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2009 9:45:52 GMT
Krisno Good solid state can give a soundstage far superior to the majority of valve amplifiers. The higher value output resistors will cause a small loss of volume, but they should cause a small audible reduction in apparent HF response. Just turn the volume up a little more. If it doesn't make much improvement you can always reinstall the original 33 ohm resistors, or new 33 ohm resistors. I can buy a packet of 8 metal film resistors for AU38 cents, so it's not a big deal if it doesn't do much. I would try 47 ohm MF resistors initially. I would try something simple before worrying about transistor substitution etc.
SandyK
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Post by krisno on Feb 6, 2009 9:52:10 GMT
SandyK: I guess you are not into tubes anymore ? hehe...
But, when using the new PSU, I heard no difference at all whatsoever. I presume it is the voltage regulator which is located beneath the PSU board. It has kind of 'dark/brown/marking' around the solder. Could the Voltage regulator be fried?? Can that be the cause of the damn sharpness.... Can I solder in a new one, which one do I need to get, is there a better one??
This will be my last tubeamp ..
I don't know what kind of resistors Mike is sending me... what is 'MF? when you write MF 47 ohm resistors?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 6, 2009 10:07:47 GMT
www.musicalfidelity.com/tune/xseries.html"X-CANV2 upgrade schedule Bypass PSU electrolytics with polycarbonate/polyester type Replace regulators with selected premium types Pure copper noise nulling belly band screen fitted to mains transformer Pure copper noise nulling screen fitted to PSU caps Replace ceramic bypass caps with polycarbonate/polyester type Realign volume control Precision re-bias Heater current, audio characteristics and transconductance matched Replace 4x medium power output transistors with precision matched pairs Replace all audio path electrolytics with low ESR, high temp. type Replace PSU caps with low ESR high temp type Replace bypass caps from ceramic to polycarbonate/polyester Replace 2x ECC88 tubes with precision matched pairs Log owner name, model and serial number in Musical Fidelity archives Issue certificate signed by Antony Michaelson Soak test for 48 hours Cost; £169 inc VAT. In the UK we will pay freight to your house. Overseas clients; all freight charges in both directions, customs clearance charges and duties at your cost. E & OE" What the heck is this?? MF do they own mods?? hehe so MF are charging £169 to fit the high temp low ESR caps that should have been there in the first place? hmmmmm... it's only taken them 5 years to pick up on this ;D
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 6, 2009 10:09:08 GMT
You know if I did not already own an X-Can V2 and if I had bought the new Solo SRG I would be tempted to swap my Novo for Krisno's V2. I have listened to a few examples (4 to be exact) of the V2 and they all sound fantastic. Wonder what is going on w/ his V2. I still reckon it's down to the fact Kris is using a "laptop" as source ;D
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allenf
250+
tangled up in blue
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Post by allenf on Feb 6, 2009 10:52:54 GMT
Hmm, so MF will sell your V2 back to you at approx original RRP, essentially restored to a guaranteed tweaked "better than new" condition. I don't think that's a bad idea at all, although you should get a commission here Mike
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Post by krisno on Feb 6, 2009 15:31:08 GMT
Any idea on swapping out the voltage regulator(for a new one, or better?? Is it the one in the center on the mainboard just below the psu board)?`Or new output transistors?? maybe there are some 'softer' ones?
K
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2009 1:34:20 GMT
BTW, NFW an SS amp will be better than a Valve amp. Miguel O.K. Just send the SC HA back, and I will pay the freight. I will give it to someone who doesn't mind 2nd best. Alex
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2009 1:38:44 GMT
Miguel
How does the car look after the corrosion removal and respray ? Alex
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Post by krisno on Feb 7, 2009 9:31:53 GMT
Mrarroyo, I am not talking about that mod. I am talking about the transistor(it is big) which is just below the PSU board(stuck on the main board, aprox in the middle). What does that transistor do, isnt it a voltage regulator?
Any case, on that transistor the solder is burned brown around it, maybe it has somehow failed. What does that transistor do, and can i swap it for something better?
Also, output transitors, they are on the main board. Can anything be done with that?
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