Extreme X-DAC v3 mods by sandyK

[Sol]

Sept 16, 2008 21:41:51 GMT @sandyk said:

juke

Perhaps Sol may care to answer this ? Sol uses a Burson in the output of his X-DAC V3.
However, a Burson will perform much better if supplied by a well regulated power supply.
A standard X-DAC V3 has no voltatge regulation for the output stages.
SandyK

Sorry slow on the uptake there ... yes the bursons sound good ... I've yet to use a cap across the pins, and while I use the X-PSU V3 I've yet to venture near the thin traces!! Don't think I ever will eitehr.

In terms of sound ... to my ears it's much more natural, and while it doesn't have the hit that you get with the original opamp, this one small negative is outweighed entirely by the ntural timbres, and superb clarity and detail oming from the bursons.

[maabx]

Alex,

I ran into a little problem. The battery supply seems to work fine when the XLPS is set to MM. But when the MC setting is used, it seems to not have enough gain. I have two tonearms and need both settings. It seems that the battery can't compete with the wall supply in terms of stiffness. As soon as the wall supply was used the gain was normal.

Anyway it was worth a try; and I learned something. I have placed an order for the v3i Little Pinkie.

Thanks, Mike

[Deleted]

sandyK
in a reply on this thread in 2007 you said "and fed directly with high resolution material from the Oppo DV981HD player" etc - can you tell me how you got the high res thread from the Oppo. I have one and apparently digital out is only Cd quality, the others requiring HDMI ?
Thanks, juke

[Deleted]

juke

If you turn off HDMI, you can export via SPDIF, and also have digital remote control of the audio level via a DAC.Set the player to MAXIMUM Resolution LPCM OUT. I ripped some DVD-As, and made a compilation album which did not have the flag set to prohibit SPDIF with DVD-A, however the best I could get was 24/96, despite what the Oppo manual states.
Attached is some info from Oppo about a firmware update.

OPPO DV-981HD 1080p Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI > Firmware Update

OPPO DV-981HD DVD Player

Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Firmware Update Instructions

Version: MVer: 05.00.01.07 Batch: 19-0701A, 19-0701B or 19-0701
(All three batch numbers correspond to the same firmware release and contain the same feature/improvement set. Different batch numbers are used in different production runs.)
Category: Minor Update
Release Date: July 7, 2008

Warning: Although DIY firmware upgrade is an easy and usually trouble-free process, an improper or failed firmware upgrade could render the DVD player unusable. Choose DIY only if you are aware of and accept the risks of performing DVD player firmware upgrade. Otherwise, you can contact OPPO at [e-mail] or OPPO authorized resellers to send the player back for the upgrade.

Before You Start

Follow the instructions EXACTLY; Don't press the "Open/Close" key until the player reboots itself. The entire process takes between 2-3 minutes. Stay focused and be patient during this process.
Make sure the AC power connection is secured; use an Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) from your PC if necessary (in areas where AC is not stable). Do not interrupt power on the DVD player during the update process.
The firmware will have factory default settings that may be different from the settings you currently have. You may want to note your current settings as you will have to reconfigure them after installing this firmware.


DIY Instructions

View the release note below.
Download the firmware from www.oppodigital.com/dv981hd/download/DV981HD-19-0701.iso
Burn a CD from the downloaded ISO image file. Be sure to burn the CD as an ISO image file, not a data file. The CD should contain a 935.BIN and a 981.BIN file if you burned it successfully. Please consult your CD burning software's help/instruction manual for more information on how to do this. Some general instruction for common CD burning software is listed below.
Turn on your TV display and the OPPO player.
Open the player tray and insert the firmware CD, and then close the tray.
As soon as the CD is loaded, you will see "Press Play To Start" on your TV display. Press the PLAY key on the remote or the player once.
The TV display shows "File Copying" and then "UPGRADING"
In about 8 seconds, the CD will be ejected. Remove the CD quickly; DO NOT DO ANYTHING ELSE. What follows is the process when the player will reboot itself.
DO NOT PRESS ANY BUTTONS NOR ATTEMPT TO CLOSE THE TRAY NOR UNPLUG THE POWER DURING THE REMAINING UPGRADE PROCESS.
After approximately 1 - 2 minutes, the player reboots itself and closes the tray automatically to complete the process. The update process is completed when the front panel of the DVD player shows "No Disc".
After updating the firmware, the TV display may lost synchronization with the player and show no picture. It is recommended that you turn off the DVD player, unplug it from the AC power, wait a few seconds and then plug back the AC power.
Turn on the DVD player and adjust the settings if necessary.
With the tray ejected, press the "OSD" button on the remote control to verify the firmware version.
Congratulations! You have just completed the firmware upgrade.


Release Note

The following improvements are included in this version:

1. PAL Disc Compatibility

A handful of PAL DVD discs have been identified to cause the DV-981HD to go into standby mode automatically when the "Video Mode" is set to "Video 2". This revision corrects the problem and can play these discs normally.

2. Subtitle and Audio Selection

Users reported that when playing some international versions of Disney DVD titles, the subtitle and audio selection can only be made at the disc menu. The "SUBTITLE" and "AUDIO" remote control buttons cannot select the desired subtitle or audio tracks. This revision fixes the problem.

3. LPCM Rate for Coaxial and Optical Output

With previous firmware versions, the "LPCM Rate" setup menu item is grayed out when HDMI audio is in use, and users cannot select high sample rate for the coaxial and optical output. This revision removes the restriction. Even when HDMI audio is in use, users can still set the "LPCM Rate" setup menu item and the player will output 96k or 192k PCM audio over its coaxial and optical output if the source material is encoded with such high sample rates.

4. Recorded Disc Compatibility

This firmware version includes improvements made to enhance compatibility with recorded discs based on some user provided materials. Although the product specification indicates "Compatibility with user-encoded contents or user-created discs is on a best effort basis with no guarantee due to the variation of media, software and techniques used," OPPO tries very hard to accommodate our customers' compatibility requests. This firmware version enhances compatibility with some DVD+R and DVD-R media. These improvements are based on materials submitted by users. Thanks to all who provided materials for testing.

All new features and improvements from the previous firmware versions are also included in this revision

General instructions on working with ISO image files

Note: These are general instructions on how to burn the firmware CD with common CD burning software. Please consult your CD burning software's help/instruction manual for more detail.

In Nero Burning Rom version 6 or 7 , go to the ‘Recorder > Burn Image…' menu and select the ISO image you downloaded.
In Nero Burning ROM version 5 or earlier, just go to Nero Burning ROMs ´File > Burn Image' option and select the ISO image you downloaded.
In Nero Express select the option for 'Disc Image or Saved Project' to select the ISO image file you downloaded and burn to CD.
In Easy CD Creator , go to 'File > Record CD from CD Image' and select the ISO image you downloaded.
In Burn At Once (third-party free software), go to 'File > Load Image File...' and select the ISO image you downloaded.

www.oppodigital.com/dv981hd/download/DV981HD-19-0701.iso

[Deleted]

Thanks SandyK. Very clear help and all went well with the update and re-setting the audio. I'm playing a DVD-A now, sounds excellent into MF V8 DAC. Interesting to see how it compares if I ever get the courage to modify my V3 as per your guide.

Have you some means of telling what rate a DVD is playing at?

Regards, juke

[Deleted]

juke
Don't forget that the majority of commercial DVD-As had a flag set to prohibit digital export. I am not sure how to tell what is actually coming out of SPDIF. I used compilation DVD-A discs , made from ripped DVD-As using DVD-Audio Explorer 2008.
That's how I found my Oppo wouldn't output higher than 24/96 via SPDIF. Incidentally, some DVD-As have a LF watermark, which is still in the ripped copies, and this stops some players after several seconds into the track. This subject was discussed in another thread not so long back.
Alex
P.S.
Have you tried remote volume control via the DAC ? You may even be able to go directly into a Power Amplifier using this method. Just don't use too much attenuation, as resolution suffers. Good material can sound stunning from a DAC ,directly into the Power amplifier.

[Deleted]

Thanks for the extra info. sandyK, I'll get a copy of Explorer and have a go at a rip.

I like the idea of trying the DAC directly into a power amp if I can get one spare to try. Mine are fairly jammed into their stand downstairs but I might have a go.

I missed the point about higher res files, I was thinking that they played but at a lower rate and you could tell, but I see now they just don't play. Best, juke

[Deleted]

Alex

I'm trying to assemble an order for the parts to try this mod. You say 'Other polyester capacitors around the NE5532s are replaced by polypropylene types of the same value if obtainable.' These are marked 222J and 272J - can you tell me what I should be looking for? I've Google'd but I’m not enlightened!

I can't seem to find any AD8066 SOIC from UK sources, can anyone help please?

Finally, I had a look inside the Dac’s case and it looks to me as if the toroidal and the Jaycar board could be fixed to the inside top of the case, making a self contained unit, is this feasible or is the power side best in a separate box?

Thanks, Syd

[Deleted]

Apr 13, 2009 22:52:43 GMT @juke said:

Alex

I'm trying to assemble an order for the parts to try this mod. You say 'Other polyester capacitors around the NE5532s are replaced by polypropylene types of the same value if obtainable.' These are marked 222J and 272J - can you tell me what I should be looking for? I've Google'd but I’m not enlightened!

I can't seem to find any AD8066 SOIC from UK sources, can anyone help please?

Finally, I had a look inside the Dac’s case and it looks to me as if the toroidal and the Jaycar board could be fixed to the inside top of the case, making a self contained unit, is this feasible or is the power side best in a separate box?

Thanks, Syd

Syd
You are looking for something like "Capacitor,polypropylene,metallised,radial,MKP1837,100Vdc," values are 2n2 and 2n7 . RS Aust had some polyprops, but not these values. (just checked)
It would be best to use an external power supply such as the complete PSU area of the SC HA, including a JLH, then use a 3 wire lead with a 3 pin DIN plug connected to supply the X-DAC V3 .Centre pin of the plug MUST be 0Volts/earth. Voltage as high as +-16V from the regulator is also O.K.
An unmodified X_DAC V3 will work O.K. with this arrangement.
If modding the X-DAC V3 , just follow the instructions about Bridge rectifier removal etc. so as to get best results from the new power supply.
Alex

P.S.
In the meantime , you could try the LM4562 and see how it sounds there. If it sounds quite reasonable,(not too bright sounding) you could then consider upgrading to the LM4562HA.
I haven't tried these yet ,though.

[Will]

If you really want the AD8066, Farnell stock it, PN: 8621535 £4.85 each. £20 min. spend though.

You also have PM

[Deleted]

Thanks once again Alex and to Will re Farnell, 8066s ordered. I had a few other bits needed and made the order up so no problem.

can't find the capacitors though.

I'll proceed with the PSU side until the parts arrive for the tricky bits!

Syd

[Deleted]

I'll proceed with the PSU side until the parts arrive for the tricky bits!

Syd
Even if you never open up th X-DAC V3s case, I think you will find that the PSU as described will make quite a worthwhile improvement.
Alex
P.S. When you fit the AD8066 adaptor PCB, be VERY careful ,as you may need to slightly enlarge the holes in the PCB to accomodate it.

[Deleted]

"Syd
Even if you never open up th X-DAC V3s case, I think you will find that the PSU as described will make quite a worthwhile improvement.
Alex"

Alex
I've made a start by pinching the Jaycar PSU and JLH from my stalled HA, (stalled due to Solo SRG's arrival a while back and probably will never be completed). The JLH promptly failed as it didn't seem to like some caps being the wrong way round. I've ordered new bits plus adapters for the 8066s. I have also ordered the metal can 4562 ready adapted. Question is does the 4562 need the voltage reduction that the 8066s do?
Thanks, Syd

[Deleted]

does the 4562 need the voltage reduction that the 8066s do?

Syd
No, the LM4562HA is O.K. up to +-17V maximum, although I would never go that high. The original X-DAC V3 has no voltage regulation for the analogue section. The additional LM78L12 and LM79L12 were there for 2 reasons. One was to reduce the voltage down to a safe level for the AD8066, and the other was to give a low impedance power supply close to the AD8066 for various reasons, including stability. You could try the LM4562 there without the regulators, but as Robert can verify, the LM4562 really needs better than average bypassing to really shine. Perhaps you could take a look at the additinal bypassing that Robert has done to his SC HA to achieve that ?
Alex
P.S.
When I originally fitted the additional voltage regulators, I hadn't at that stage considered fitting a JLH into the dual regulated outboard supply, so results may be a little better now without the additional voltage regulators.
It's a shame you didn't get to try the SCHA with LM4562HA and JLH first, as I expect it would be very competitive with Solo SRG.

[Deleted]

Alex
I maybe will return to the HA, I got as far as building it but when the case arrived the SRG was out and getting well praised so there was no incentive to go on just then. When I went back to the thread it had lost me! I have a couple of blank JLH boards and added the parts to my order today, so maybe another order to Jaycar. I have more time now but getting focused to complete one project would be good.

I've had a look at what I think are Robert's mods but unless I see pics and a to b step instructions I'm lost. I'll get as far as the OPA 2134 stage and if it is all working I'll try again!

As usual, thanks for all your help. Syd

[Deleted]

Syd
It could be interesting to try a couple of ordinary generic 2,200uF in parallel, then tack a 100nF across one to see what difference it makes. Don't forget to cut the BC550C/BC560C collector to rail track, and insert a 2K7 MF across the cut.
Alex

[Deleted]

Sorry Alex, lost now

(I have a non-limited JLH board if it makes any difference). Where does the 2*2200uF setup go? is it in place of the present 2K2 from 0V rail ? there are 2 each of 550c/560c on the two sides, which of each's track should be cut? Is it the one nearest to input end?

Sort me on this one and you'll deserve a medal !

Syd

[Deleted]

Apr 17, 2009 22:59:33 GMT @juke said:

Sorry Alex, lost now

(I have a non-limited JLH board if it makes any difference). Where does the 2*2200uF setup go? is it in place of the present 2K2 from 0V rail ? there are 2 each of 550c/560c on the two sides, which of each's track should be cut? Is it the one nearest to input end?

Sort me on this one and you'll deserve a medal !

Syd

Syd
I was just suggesting that as the Suntan caps would have to come from Jaycar, you could try ordinary 2,200uF instead, and also try soldering an ordinary 100nF capacitor across one of them under the PCB.
With the the BC550C and BC560C, you will see that one of each pair has a collector lead that connects to the power supply rail
directly. You make a fine cut through this track and solder a 2K7 across the cut track.
Alex

[Deleted]

Alex
I understand your latest suggestion don't know now how I got confused first time!

I've now got the Jaycar/JLH PSU working (without your mod above as yet (no parts) and I'm at the point of making a lead and plug to connect to the DAC. To identify the correct way round for the + and - can I remove the rectifier in the DAC and check the polarity arriving there so that no current can get further until I have verified it?

Thanks, Syd

[Deleted]

Syd
If you haven't touched the diodes in the X-DAC, it will work O.K. with either way around as long as the centre pin of the plug is 0 volts. It will be the correct way around if the full +Ve voltage from the voltage regulator PCB appears at the incoming side of the diode closest to the rear panel (2 diodes together) If the bridge rectifier is removed then ensure that +VE appears directly across from the + marking next to the Bridge rectifier. i.e. near the "B" of the word "BR1" -VE will actually come in on the same side as where + is marked. + and - actually come in on opposite sides of the bridge rectifier due to track layout.
Alex

[dejanm]

SandyK,

What is the chip set inside DAC V3 ? I mean which receiver, DAC, digital filter ... ?

What do you think about the idea to make a NOS DAC out of this V3 ?

[Deleted]

dejan
Without pulling the cover off, all I can say about the main ones is SRC4192 upsampling chip, and Burr Brown DSD1792,(from a Stereophile review)
DIR1703E (?) and SRC4193I (?) ( I was trying to find out from a friend's photos)
If you could hear what I am presently hearing from high res files ripped and saved to, then played from the Corsair Voyager GT USB drive via the X-DAC V3, then in to the Class A HA and AT W1000 headphones, you wouldn't even be contemplating changing anything.
The better the stuff going into it via SPDIF, the more it keeps on surprising. Playing from a memory device, really is quite a bit better than a spinning HDD, as is a SSD.(so quite a few people are telling me) This isn't just my own opinion.
Regards
Alex

[dejanm]

SandyK,

I got your point. Concerning SSD - it is very exciting new technology. It speeds up conventional computer remarkably. I saw it when friend of mine put SATA SSD instead of classical one. So SSD is very high on my watching list. It does have though a couple of flows: still limited capacity and there are some quality issues, like limited number of writings. But I assume that we will face considerable improvements of the tehnology fairly quickly.

The reason for asking the question about NOS was the idea to skip the analogue part of this DAC by simply connecting transformers at the output - directly to DAC chip output pins. Sowter and Lundahl have some nice transformers specially designed for this purpose. That may give some more transparency. It would also decrease a load on power supply, which is not regulated for the output section - if I remember correctly some of your remarks about V3 power supply.

[Deleted]

It would also decrease a load on power supply, which is not regulated for the output section - if I remember correctly some of your remarks about V3 power supply.

Dejan
My X-DACV 3 has a regulated +-15.5V from the outboard dual regulated PSU incorporating a JLH. This replaces the 12-0-12VAC wallwart, and automatically then provides a regulated supply for the analogue section,as well as a vastly improved low impedance supply for the digital section.In addition to that,additional 78L12/79L12 further improves the power to the analogue section . I could just as easily have used +-18V regulated from the outboard PSU, and used additional local +-15V regulation adjacent to the analogue stage, but I chose to use the fast AD8066 in the output stage, which has a maximum working voltage only a little above +-12V. I believe it is the AD8066 which helps achieve the high performance, although LM4562HA's may come very close to this performance. I always strive for wideband electronics, as I believe it is superior to the limiting factors of even the best transformers if correctly implemented.If you are interested in hearing a 24/96 track that was recently uploaded after being decoded from a 24/96 .flac download from 2008, and then recently converted to.wav and saved directly to a USB pen, send me a PM.

Regards
Alex
P.S. I understand that with recent high quality SSDs such as Vertex,Agility, and Intel, the limited number of write cycles is now virtually a non issue.

[Deleted]

PLEASE NOTE that a JLH Power Supply Addon, as seen in the "Jaycar" thread, is now connected between the PSU and the output jack of the PSU box. This gives a further , very worthwhile improvement.
SandyK