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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 20, 2015 16:49:57 GMT
Hi all ,
This will be my first post (newbie) so i hope i`m in the right category ?
Ok, i have just purchased an X-Cans and although the sound is very good , when switching off power (via wall wart) a second or so after, there`s a strange fairly high pitched whine / buzz emitted through the headphones , this sound travels from right to left then stops ?
I have tried three pairs of headphones but get the same sound.
The sound is not heard when playing music.
If this is a major problem i will contact seller and advise , but would like your input first !
Kind regards
Dave.
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jc
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Post by jc on Feb 20, 2015 18:14:51 GMT
Hello Dave and welcome to the forum.
What you are describing is completely normal, you'll be pleased to hear.
You are are hearing the amp powering down, the draining of stored electrical power.
You should really turn down the volume and unplug the heaphones before powering off the X-Cans as there is an outside chance of damaging your headphones otherwise.
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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 20, 2015 20:15:51 GMT
Hi cj. Thanks very much for your professional advice , i will be looking shortly to purchase the upgrade kit from Mike & looking at replies from other members , these kits are fairly easy to fit ? The inside of the case has a sticker stating 2003 , so i guess first thing would be replace the tubes ? Also replace the tube bases , are these fairly easy to unsolder as there are 9 pins , did i read somewhere of something called a solder sucker ?  Dave. |
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jc
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Post by jc on Feb 20, 2015 20:41:14 GMT
I'll leave the ins & outs of X-Can upgrading to Mike (PinkFloyd) as he is the master of these MF units. In the meantime, yes, a solder sucker aka Desoldering pump and Desoldering braid are are essential itmes. |
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Post by mrpharmacist on Feb 21, 2015 0:13:04 GMT
It's safe and a lot of fun and satisfaction to try once. You need excellent desoldering braid if you try that (pump-no idea). Maybe you can get a local elec guy to sell you a metre length-simply, it shouldn't seem like string and if it doesn't work straight off-stop!
I wouldn't fancy trying to change the base. PM Mike mate
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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 21, 2015 16:33:26 GMT
Ok, thanks for info, also read on another post that a soldering iron of 25w is needed, how crucial is this ?
I`m assuming you need to reach the melting point as quick as possible and not dissipate too much heat through the board, the one i have is a 15w Weller fine tip which i guess is ok for general work !
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 21, 2015 21:52:13 GMT
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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 21, 2015 23:35:50 GMT
Thanks Mike.  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 23, 2015 21:35:15 GMT
Ok, thanks for info, also read on another post that a soldering iron of 25w is needed, how crucial is this ? I`m assuming you need to reach the melting point as quick as possible and not dissipate too much heat through the board, the one i have is a 15w Weller fine tip which i guess is ok for general work ! 25 watt is "sh1te"..... you will do a lot of damage with 25 watts, You will end up spending longer on the joint. I like to solder / desolder at 500C...... go in fast / come out fast...... the WORST thing you can do is spend more than FIVE seconds on a pad with a "warm" iron, that will either lift pads or kill parts. 25 watt Weller? It's much like spreading "real" (refrigerated) butter onto fresh bread........ Mike. |
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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 24, 2015 20:10:04 GMT
Ok , could you recommend the make you use or another favourable one to look for !
I will shortly be ordering the x-cans kit + tubes from you, so obviously need a good solder/desolder unit.
If i have to spend lots of money on a soldering station maybe it would be more economical sending the x-cans to you, if you would be willing ?
Cheers
Dave
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2015 20:51:40 GMT
Ok , could you recommend the make you use or another favourable one to look for ! I will shortly be ordering the x-cans kit + tubes from you, so obviously need a good solder/desolder unit. If i have to spend lots of money on a soldering station maybe it would be more economical sending the x-cans to you, if you would be willing ? Cheers Dave Hi Dave, Actually, a 25 watt iron will be fine..... have a look at this guys video on "soddering"  www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh9pWu6K6tc I've just become used to soldering HOT and fast over the years and like a temperature controlled iron so I "know" what temperature it's running at, at any given moment. The solder is also something to consider, more importantly the melting point..... the solder I use has a melting point of 183C / minimum junction temp. of 245C so a 25 watt iron will be more than enough. Where a 25 watt iron is a pig is when you are trying to "desolder" that crappy lead free solder..... some of that early stuff almost required an oxy acetylene torch to melt it..... the X-CANS (V1) / V2 and V3 were all soldered with 60/40 solder so no worries, it won't be a problem for your 25 watter to melt the stuff fast. Prime the desolder pump and hold it in your left hand with the nozzle close to the pad, apply heat to the joint (with your soldering iron / right hand) and as soon as the solder melts hit the button and suck it up. I'm more than happy to do it for you Dave but I think you are more than capable of doing it yourself...... ATB Mike. |
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jc
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Post by jc on Feb 24, 2015 21:22:11 GMT
Just an extra note on 25w soldering irons, I have a JBC 30ST which is far better than anything I've had from Weller etc. I keep this one at work (repairing work stuff or DIY bits taken to work) for general soldering but if there is anything more exacting or needs extra care/speed I use my variable temperature "soldering station" at home.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2015 22:20:52 GMT
Just another comment CJ........ I don't have a scooby what that "soddering" chap was talking about he was "soddering" and "jibbering" so fast that it took me 39 seconds to locate my hearing aid. That must be one of the funniest guides to making a cock up I have ever seen I'm off to "sodder" my "ass" into bed...... Ah..... bed is good Warm...... |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2015 22:35:05 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2015 22:47:08 GMT
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Post by scorchedearth on Feb 26, 2015 12:53:56 GMT
Lol... Great info guys! Thank you Mike, i will be in touch shortly about prementioned purchases. Once again thanks for all info. Dave. |
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Post by scorchedearth on Mar 26, 2015 15:22:30 GMT
Hi Mike , need your professional opinion on a v2 i have just purchased.
And i do appreciate it can only be a limited opinion from my description and pic`s (photo`s to follow)
Seller`s description :
"In superb and un-modified condition with original box, you cannot find examples as good as this any more.
The sheer sonic brilliance, warmth and detail this headphone amp delivers has to be heard to be appreciated.
It has been a pleasure owning and using this but a complete re jig of my av and sound system forces sale"
So, plugged in left an hour to warm up , played some tunes , audio all seems ok , switched off then wanted to check boards, valves etc.
1. Boards have some scorched/brown areas.
2. Jan Phillips 6922, serial no 8613 & 14167 ?
3. Mospec TIP110 wobbles like a loose tooth ! (but still attached)
So it`s the degree of damage to the boards due to the heat expelled over time , valves don`t appear to be a matched pair ?
I`m wondering if this unit has been put together from other parts , ie the valves, would MF have installed valves with different serial no`s ?
If you feel the boards are good enough , then i will keep as i want to purchase one of your upgrade packages, but only if this unit is ok to proceed ?
And as previously mentioned i`m not experienced in complex soldering issues !
Thanks for any info you can give !
Kind regards
Dave.
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Post by scorchedearth on Mar 26, 2015 15:37:55 GMT
Mike , unable to post pic`s , unless they have to be posted elsewhere ? they are all under 1mb, can i email them to you ?
Regards
dave
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jc
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Post by jc on Mar 26, 2015 18:58:39 GMT
Hi Dave, Yes, you need to host the photos on a site such as photobucket or flikr amoungst others. Once uploaded to there you can use the image link code provided there and paste it into your post. It's always nice to liven up a thread with pictures and gives readers a better idea of what is going on. see hereI'm sure Mike will be along with advice once he gets a chance to drop in here, giving you a chance to get the photos up |
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Post by scorchedearth on Mar 26, 2015 19:54:47 GMT
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Post by scorchedearth on Mar 26, 2015 20:04:22 GMT
Hi cj , uploaded pic`s to photobucket , not sure i got right, but there`s something there !..... I`m an ol git, so takes some time to get things right !  Thx for help. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2015 20:42:36 GMT
Hi Mike , need your professional opinion on a v2 i have just purchased. And i do appreciate it can only be a limited opinion from my description and pic`s (photo`s to follow) Seller`s description : "In superb and un-modified condition with original box, you cannot find examples as good as this any more. The sheer sonic brilliance, warmth and detail this headphone amp delivers has to be heard to be appreciated. It has been a pleasure owning and using this but a complete re jig of my av and sound system forces sale" So, plugged in left an hour to warm up , played some tunes , audio all seems ok , switched off then wanted to check boards, valves etc. 1. Boards have some scorched/brown areas. 2. Jan Phillips 6922, serial no 8613 & 14167 ? 3. Mospec TIP110 wobbles like a loose tooth ! (but still attached) So it`s the degree of damage to the boards due to the heat expelled over time , valves don`t appear to be a matched pair ? I`m wondering if this unit has been put together from other parts , ie the valves, would MF have installed valves with different serial no`s ? If you feel the boards are good enough , then i will keep as i want to purchase one of your upgrade packages, but only if this unit is ok to proceed ? And as previously mentioned i`m not experienced in complex soldering issues ! Thanks for any info you can give ! Kind regards Dave. Hi Dave, MF do not fit matched valves (matched triodes) and just whack them in off the shelf so the date codes could be different. A "matched" pair of valves doesn't mean they have the same date codes, it means that the triodes have been matched for close tolerance. The codes you refer to are not serial numbers, they are date codes...... 8613 means 3rd January 1986 but god only knows what 14167 means..... I have quite a few of the 8613 date coded 6922 in original cartons and the date on the carton is 01 / 86. "If" they are the original MF valves that is the first thing you will be wanting to replace as they will be well out of spec by now (with regard to emissions)...... in this instance, you don't WANT the original valves that came with the amp as they will be almost goosed. They will be especially goosed if the previous owner has left his V2 switched on all the time, 24/7/365, and a good way of ascertaining whether the amp has been left powered up all the time is to inspect the board (which you have already done). Those boards don't respond well to 24/7/365 constant heat and the tell tale signs are brown heat marks on the upper board (usually where the valve pops its head through the hole) and around the TIP transistors on the bottom board. The "loose tooth" wobble is a CLASSIC weak point with these amps (but ONLY if they have been left powered up 24/7/365) whereby the heat actually causes the pads the transistors are attached to to lift from the board...... MF could have got round this by fitting appropriate heatsinks AND fitting the transitors properly but they decided to do it the cheap (short term) way and fitted the transistors a bit higher on the board. The transistor leg "end stops" are supposed to make contact with the board, this ensures there is no stress on the delicate solder pads, but MF haven't "driven them home" so this will always be a weak point with prolonged (years) of heat. I, personally, would not want to accept a V2 that he been left on all the time Dave...... It's a piece of cake (for me) to repair the tracks / reseat the pads around the transistors but you really don't want to be getting involved in all that Dave, especially when a pristine V2 can be had....... for every one like that they are 9 good ones, trust me....... just a case of waiting for one to appear on ebay. I modded one yesterday, for a customer in France, and it was a first edition board V2...... not a damned mark on the boards, totally pristine in every respect. I'll upload some photos when I finish typing this and you'll see what I mean. The sellers description "in superb condition" cannot be disputed, if the unit is in superb cosmetic condition. He sold it as "working" (which it is) so he has done nothing wrong Dave, he's probably never had a look inside the amp. Having said that, if you're not happy with it (and I wouldn't be) I would ask the seller for a refund because it's clearly NOT in superb condition under the bonnet with transitors wobbling about like loose teeth. Have a word with him and explain that you didn't buy this as restoration project, you assumed that "superb condition" applied to both the cosmetics and the inner workings. As I say, he probably didn't have a clue as to the state of play under the bonnet but, nonetheless, it was not what you expected to find under the hood of a normal V2 and therefore a refund would be most appreciated. I don't NEED to see the photos Dave, I have seen quite a few of these "always on" V2's and they all look exactly the same / all have the exact same problems..... e-mail me your photos anyway and I'll have a good look at them. rock DOT grotto AT gmail DOT com All the best, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2015 21:07:07 GMT
What is it with the time lag on this forum? I'm asking a question and the friggin' answer appears before the question! I've just seen the photos Dave and can tell you 100% / without a shadow of doubt that TIP 110 has been replaced at some time, it has been seated correctly!  Yep, a classic "always on" board....... not a biggie / easy to remedy (for me) but certainly far from a "superb" example.  Ditto........ text book "always on" V2.  Just what I said........ around the hole where the valve pops through (the transistors are causing the discolouration, not the valve)....... Personally? I would want a refund, you can get pristine V2 no bother...... I would hold out for a good one Dave. Right...... off onto ebay to search for an "X-CAN V2 / scorched boards / bargain!"  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2015 21:39:56 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2015 21:42:44 GMT
new 2.1mm DC socket...... did anybody notice?
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