pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 17, 2013 12:51:02 GMT
Hi Martin Even though I can feel the words sticking The best team most definitely won. And Jon I’m turning green Great work Take care Well I can remember when we got the wooden spoon more than once. Thanks for the generosity. martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 17, 2013 12:10:39 GMT
Ah, the sting of being thrashed by the Welsh!! (They deserved it, mind you!!) Totally outclassed in my opinion Jon :'(but well worth watching. In the Stadium with the roof on it was MAGIC boys. I think we realy lifted their spirits. Reminded me what we have here, and as usual a very low police profile in near the stadium.....a very good day. Prices in all the bars/cafes/ Gregs all up at least 10% Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 17, 2013 11:57:43 GMT
Hi Florian, If you look closely at the first pix by Leo in the thread Wills mentioned in his post I think you will see at the top the PSU and it looks Like one of the Jaycar kits or a variation on one of them. Maybe Leo can enlighten us Martin PS didn't we do well yesterday
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 17, 2013 11:45:54 GMT
Hi Florian, I looked at that PSU board too, it seems OK as Will said BUT the voltage regs are in the middle of the board so difficult (but not impossibel) to use board mounted heatsinks. The board has loads of power potential and is ample for the HA and then some. Jaycar have a very reasonable kit that I was told (thanks to Shaun for his help) would work with the HA and it has plenty enough current too. On this link, www.jaycar.co.uk/productView.asp?ID=KC5501&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11. If you buy a quantity they come cheaper and post free works out something like buy 3 get 2 free......always handy to have a PSU or two spare, or sell/pass them on on this site Other wise add your name to the GB for the amp / psu / bits and bobs. Marc (Gomer) is working hard on organising this (thanks very much Marc) Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 16, 2013 23:54:18 GMT
Payment sent this morning early Mike. Thanks
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 15, 2013 14:26:08 GMT
Mike you have a PM
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 13, 2013 21:20:13 GMT
Built my Chiara from the printed circuit board; after modifing it for more current output it has been driving mu AKG K340 phones. Hi, Interested in how you modded the Chiarra how and what did you do? Any pix? All the best Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 13, 2013 2:18:44 GMT
Hi Shaun,
Thanks I will remember. If you want some let me know. If you want a shed load I can add it to my order and post on to you so you can avoid postage on the one item.
Bits on their way end of the week I hope, so finish the JLH REs and the PSU then just the HAs to get sorted, when the GB goes ahead.
Freind has just got a BT928 HA that he wants me to mod a la Mike's notes from a while ago. So another job in the list to get round to. Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 12, 2013 11:30:43 GMT
Hi Alex, Shaun,
Thanks for the help. I have now located the diodes SF11/13/14 but no SF12 so I will go with the SF14's they a cheap enough to buy a quantity @ only a few pence each.
Shaun,
Sorry didn't mean to credit you with the boards, also big apolls to Will (they are really nice piece of kit), I just meant the ones you kindly sent me .... oops Thanks both bits on order Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 10, 2013 14:22:22 GMT
Hi, Can anyone pls enlighten me. I have Shuan's PSU boards, can I use 4 x IN5822 diodes for the input retification. (I have some of these from a friend) They are 40v 3amp schottky diodes or must I use the uh 4004 diodes ( but I can not seem to find them at the mo). Any advise gratefuly accepted. Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 6, 2013 16:53:03 GMT
Hi Crispyface, Enamelled copper wire can be bought in small quanties and various diameters from Maplins. Not the cheapest way of doing things but if you only need a few meters probably the best shot. They sell 0.71mm and 0.9mm either should be near enough but I an sure that some one will be able to give you amore better idea. Try this link; www.maplin.co.uk/productsearch?criteria=eameled+copper+wireThe case looks brilliant by the way makes me very envious ....lol Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 6, 2013 12:46:49 GMT
Hi Shaun, Nice pix, very shinny case. Why have you left R5 and R6 out on you PSU BTW? I am looking for the build manuals for the PSU and the HA have you any ideas? All The Best Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Mar 1, 2013 13:21:07 GMT
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 24, 2013 11:58:30 GMT
Hi Marc,
To go back to your post 535 the answer is yes in for boards and GB of bits.
Thanks
Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 22, 2013 12:42:33 GMT
Thanks all, Very grateful Advice much appreciated. Couple of boards going bench Sunday (I hope). Then just waiting for the HA bits and bobs with the boards. All the best to everyone Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 21, 2013 12:42:59 GMT
''i have bypassed the c/l circuit as you suggested with the 4,700 uF caps but upped the voltage to 35v so will cover 12 or 15 volt psu's'' Hi Martin Just to be clear. Does the above mean that you've used 4700uf caps to ''bypass'' the current limiter? If so I have a feeling that is not quite what Alex intended (but I may be wrong but i've not seen that done before) most of us just use a plain piece of wire to bypass with. Maybe a picture would help. Take care Hi Shaun, This was from the thread on JLH RE group buy on DIY a week or so ago. Yes I did not use the c/l circuit in the JLH RE at all and inputted the power via the two caps in parallel straight to R1 and R2. So input from psu to JLH RE then the 4.700uF (+/- pins) caps then to R1 R2. Have I miss-interpreted something? Alex was talking about not using the c/l circuit if I was running a regulated psu and the RE not getting working correctly if I was running more than 100ma. I wanted up to 500ma so opted for the non c/l choice. Maybe I have it wrong? Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 21, 2013 10:33:17 GMT
Hi Alex They are going on the bench tomorrow or Sun. i have bypassed the c/l circuit as you suggested with the 4,700 uF caps but upped the voltage to 35v so will cover 12 or 15 volt psu's. Hope that is OK and what was needed quote; I recommend using a 4,700uF 10V low ESR electro and a normal 4,700uF 16V in parallel on both halves of the PCB. Thanks Martin ......... still laughing over the Pingu Martin Those 4,700uF caps should be lower voltage types. as the voltage across them when working is only around 600 Millivolts. We could have even used 6.3 volt types, but these have a much higher ripple rating which is better for longevity. The 10uF and the 100uF electros can be 35V types if desired. Regards Alex[/quote Hi Alex All noted Alex and will be done before Sunday and powering up on bench. As you can see sorted Avatar out now Thanks again Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 21, 2013 10:03:12 GMT
Hi Alex They are going on the bench tomorrow or Sun. i have bypassed the c/l circuit as you suggested with the 4,700 uF caps but upped the voltage to 35v so will cover 12 or 15 volt psu's. Hope that is OK and what was needed quote; I recommend using a 4,700uF 10V low ESR electro and a normal 4,700uF 16V in parallel on both halves of the PCB. Thanks Martin ......... still laughing over the Pingu
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 21, 2013 9:36:01 GMT
LOL Alex and CJ I love it how can I get this as my avatar picture thingy, it will not copy.
2xHA's on the cards one for me one fro son in law. (when all mods buying is settled) Several ripple eaters now finished and awaiting installing. Projects crack on.
Anyone going to Bristol BTW.( Bit off subject ....sorry )
Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 20, 2013 14:22:31 GMT
Once I get the nod form Marc, I'll send over the revised pcb (and anything else wanted) and the pcb's can be on the way It's very heartening that another couple of AK Class A's are going to be made I ain't nodding yet. Getting my head round everything and trying to decide how far i will take this. I'm considering the following things: HA PCB: sure LS devices: sure Other active parts for HA: maybe Caps and heatsink for HA: maybe resistors: no way PS PCB: maybe (dual LM317 version i guess, although the beefier one also makes sense) Transistor matching: maybe Basically, as I'm starting from scratch with this, I might as well order everything in bulk, there are not that many participants that it will become a logistic nightmare. And matching makes sense, as it would justify to buy 100 or even 250 transistors in order to easily pick matched pairs or quads. I'll decide one of these days what i can commit to, as i have to keep family life in mind too. Cheers, Marc Hi, Pls count me in for 5 PSUs boardsto go with the anp boards. I'll also join in the GB for the other bits as well seems to make sense to bulk buy. All the best Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 18, 2013 14:17:36 GMT
Shaun you have a PM Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 17, 2013 23:41:12 GMT
Frequent removal and re-installation of the PCBs may see these fragile tapped threads damaged. Some may even manage to snap off the taps, and be unable to remove the remainder. That is more likely to happen when tapping say 4mm threads in the top of the heatsinks for mounting covers. It would appear that I am not the the only klutz that has done that. Kind Regards Alex [/quote] Thanks for that Alex I thought I was the only klutz that broke taps . I was told that it was because I was taught to repair my cars with a club hammer and long handeled bar for the sockets .... ooops ther goes another exhaust stud Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 17, 2013 23:01:39 GMT
Hi guys, Just adding that I wouldn't mind adding all the active parts in the group buy, so more than just the LS devices alone. There's not really a hurry, as it seems that Will is going to need some time to change the layout. Cheers, Marc Yes sounds a good idea add me in if you have a GB for all active bits seems better value that way. If not enough intrest well just the LS thingies (tech legal term ) will be OK Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 17, 2013 13:19:16 GMT
Hi Alex, Thanks for the information. I think I'll use your method and bypass the c/l circuit all together, that will save changing Q3 & Q5. Where would the 4,700uF caps go, on the initial input in place of the c/l circuits or elsewhere? (observing polarity of course) Bearing in mind I may be using one board on a 20v psu should I keep one cap to 10v low ESR and up the other to 4,700uF >30v? Thanks for details about burning in I'll hook them up to a +/- 12v 200ma psu for a few days before I use them.
All the Best Martin
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pingu
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Post by pingu on Feb 17, 2013 1:24:31 GMT
Thanks Alex, I understand and yes as they will be used with regulated psu's as you mention so I will just bypass the limiters, seems the easiest way to do things. Just a couple of HA's and a phono so 550ma will be the max I think I will need so a simple approach sounds good. Passed a couple of boards on to son in law so will let him see your comments too.
I see in the article a diode can also be connected across R9... or maybe that is a different approach. Thanks for the advise about PC's I have read that but will not be using them on that type of psu at the moment however will keep it in mind. Thanks Martin
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