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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 7, 2021 20:19:55 GMT
Hi Marco, Sorry for the delay in replying I have been busy sleeping. Stock Valves are JAN Philips 6112 frank.pocnet.net/sheets/009/6/6112.pdfMy preferred choice of valve is the Sylvania 6948 (a ruggedised / military grade version of the 6112) frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/6/6948.pdfThe 6948 is the dog's bollocks. Hope that answered your question Have a look at the specs, the Sylvania 6948 is the (by far) better valve for the job Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 4, 2021 19:56:18 GMT
I'll keep it short and sweet.
Alex contributed a hell of a lot to this forum (and then some!).
We parted company a few years back, the last time I spoke with him was in 2014, he felt he could no longer work with me. Good on him, he was a real man who stood fast on his principles and I respected his decision to leave this forum.
I am really upset to learn he passed away. Alex was a great mentor, with good values and morality, sometimes quite annoying but always level headed and consistently "right"...... he was like an "online" Father to me and always wanted to point me in the right direction and protect me from myself.
It's a real shame that we parted company and I didn't have the opportunity to say "thank you" to him.
Alex....... You are a star mate and I will never forget you.
See you on the Dark Side of The moon my friend.
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2021 20:10:09 GMT
Cheers Mike I’ll send pro boards a bit extra now. Sent you the two boards this afternoon Martin, they should be with you tomorrow No charge mate, they were just gathering dust, I'm happy you will be putting them to good use. Have fun with them, All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2021 20:06:07 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 26, 2021 19:53:16 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 25, 2021 20:04:22 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 24, 2021 22:27:33 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 24, 2021 22:21:30 GMT
Under the board tweaks not shown
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 24, 2021 21:05:00 GMT
Hi Mike Gladly make a contribution no probs at all. If let me know the postage for those PCBs I’ll add it to the payment for you. Probably better than doing an individual payment. It seems the plague has other side effects other than the illness. After all this forum has been a help over the years and it would be a shame to loose its reference posts. Thanks Hi Martin, I'm going to the post office on Friday to ship a few packages, I will pop your jiffy bag into the post then. Very busy ATM mate and not doing my "daily" run into town...... I do two postal runs at the moment, Monday and Friday. Postage will be nominal, around £1.50, don't worry about it. All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 23, 2021 20:48:18 GMT
There hasn't been a lot going on here the past couple of years BUT what this place is, and what it was, is a reference point for many....... it's an archive, and a bloody good one! Things can, and will, improve and people will start sharing their ideas / questions / hopes and dreams etc. once again. I don't want to see this place plastered with adverts (would you like a larger Penis etc.) I am personally going to pay for the one year "diamond" package to make sure this joint remains ad free........ please help me, in any way you can, to keep our forum ad free. Proboards have been absolutely SUPERB over the past 20 years (second to none superb with bells on!) maintaining a free service...... they need our help now, whatever you can donate please do so guys. Patrick Clinger is a seriously genuine guy and he wouldn't be asking for support if he didn't require it, trust me. I will keep this place afloat for one year "ad free" please help me...... www.proboards.com/contributeAll the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 22, 2021 20:30:55 GMT
BTW.... the ONLY reason I want to keep hold of the single Ripple Eater is the fact that is has "Rock Grotto" printed on it. Means a lot to me, a reminder of just what a fantastic joint this once was Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 22, 2021 19:32:38 GMT
Hi Mike , Well actually the double ones that we used in the AKHA on here a few years ago but a few of those will do as I can do a pos and neg version. Yes they be fine This is the one from Greg’s website users.tpg.com.au/gerskine/greg/ (It’s under power supplies / shunt regs strangely enough) But it’s pdf and I can’t get a reasonable priced site to accept pdf to make the boards Thanks Mike PS hope you on the men’s after your fall Martin Hi Martin, Had a hunt around and I have two of them (The latest black edition versions / GE20120421) both are in absolutely pristine condition / as new. I've just taken a photo but light is failing here so can get a much better photo tomorrow if you need one. I only have one of the "single" Ripple eaters (which I would like to keep) but the 2 x GE20120421 (2oz copper) shunt regulators are yours for the taking mate If you're happy to cover the postage cost then they are free to a good home Martin, I know you'll make good use of them Fully recovered from the "involuntary" Winter Olympics "freestyle" maneuver that saw me hit the deck like Eddie the Eagle going backwards down a ski slope...... it wasn't pretty Three broken ribs, a good few weeks of discomfort, I will never again wear a pair of slippers when emptying the bin, a good message that ice can be lethal! Hope all is good with you Martin. All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 22, 2021 12:28:41 GMT
HELP PLEASE So it appears that the pcb on Greg’s website is a jpg which is not suitable to give to any pcb makers. Has anyone got a converted file I can use? Will, do you still have the files from your boards? OR Has anyone got any spare ripple rated boards please? I’d be willing to sort out a GB or pass on any extra pcbs I have surplus from my order at cost. If anyone is interested Is this what you're after?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 11, 2021 21:25:37 GMT
Hi! First post here. Found this place when I bought a X-can v2 and X-PSU at a thrift shop yesterday for 20€. It didn't have the cord between the amp and PSU, so I couldn't try it out yesterday. Today I soldered up a cord and turned the units on. Let them sit for a while and it looks fine. When I plugged in the headphones there was a crackling sound on the left channel, and when I tried to play music through it, with volume to zero, the left channel was playing at full blast. Of course I turned it off. And now I'm scratching my head over where to start. Is it the pot, or the rca-jacks? I'm new to this so trying to find my way forward as best I can. I was kinda hoping it would work fine and sound ok, so I could just skip to the fun part and mod it after reading a few threads here... But I want to find out what's wrong with the unit and have a good listen before I do anything to it. Hi Vilding, Welcome to the forum) Sorry for the delay in replying..... I haven't been too well lately. (not the convids, I went arse over tit on some ice and broke three ribs) Your description of the problem is very good BUT it could, literally, be one of a hundred things that's wrong with the amp and impossible to diagnose online without actually seeing / testing the amp. What I CAN say is that the crackling sound is 97% indicative of a failed valve (tube). My "guess" is a new pair of valves is all you need. Thing is, that's all I can do (without physically seeing the amp) "guess". You say you "soldered up a cord"....... between the X-PSU and the X-CAN V2? Did you ensure that you soldered + to + and - to -? I think you may have soldered one end of the cord + center pin positive and the other end negative? Check that. With your multimeter (set on continuity setting) probe both 2.1mm plugs...... tip should go to tip and ground should go to ground. It could be as simple as that Vilding A simple oversight on your part, check that DIY cable Let me know how you get on with that mate. Hope this helps All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 8, 2021 20:43:40 GMT
they look exactly like mine, the older bass lite version with green drivers I know the driver protector plastic for the "bass heavy" version was grey, but what is the colour for the third, so called "Neutral" version, do you know if it was black and with the 3 pin holes ?? Pink, two holes "mouth and arse".
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 7, 2021 20:24:46 GMT
Hi all, this is my first post so please be gentle with me.
In 2006 I bought an X-10V3 tube buffer. I had seen a mag write-up that said it made a substantial improvement to the sound of the XDACV3 and XPSU which I already had. I then read reports (Some on this forum) of it damaging amplifiers if not allowed to stabilise properly and as I had fairly high end amplification I was too scared to use it but kept it anyway. Having forgotten about it for years it appeared while I was tidying up and my question is this.
The instructions say switch it on, on its own, leave it to stabilise for 30 secs or so and then switch your other components on with your amp last. The XPSU is designed to have the DAC and Tube buffer connected to it at the same time and it's only the XPSU which has an on off switch, not the dac or buffer. This means when you switch the XPSU on both the dac and buffer will power up at the same time so the buffer is not being switched on, on its own. Is this likely to damage anything. Hope this doesn't sound too stupid and any advice is appreciated.
Cheers
John Hi John, Absolute nonsense mate (welcome to the forum, by the way) the MF manual states: "Plug the AC connector lead from the power supply unit into the X-10 V3’s inlet socket, and plug the power supply itself into a convenient wall mains outlet. The blue LED on the front panel will light to confirm the unit is ready for use. Allow a minute or so for the valves (tubes) to warm up, then sit back and enjoy the music." It's basically saying "give the X-10V3 a couple of minutes to warm up before expecting the best sonic performance from it"....... no way, whatsoever, will it damage your amp........ connect everything up and switch everything on, as you usually do, the X-10V3 buffer won't damage a thing mate...... it "can't" All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 3, 2021 21:39:55 GMT
Excellent job Mike and thanks. I noticed the two pins on the left are fused together? Could you explain what each pin does with the circuit? It looks solid now and I look forward to listening through it again. Thanks The two "fused together" go to ground. perfect.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 3, 2021 20:35:12 GMT
OK, All good Here is the fix: You had lifted all six of the solder pads James meaning there was no mechanical "join" between the pot and the rest of the circuit as you can see here: The first thing to do is to gently scrape back the green track coating layer to expose the copper track...... this is best done with a craft knife with a chisseled blade: You then bend over the pins of the potentiometer, flush to the board, making sure they align correctly onto the exposed sections of copper track...... sounds easy.... doesn't look pretty BUT it's the way to do the job: Now for the icing on the cake! Flood in a suitable amount of solder and that pot is a lot more secure than it ever was The pot now has a better footprint and is good to go forever and a day As I say, it doesn't look pretty but neither does open heart surgery......... Your amp is 101% good to go and the direct to track fix is far superior to the original flimsy solder pads........ I tested your original pot and it is 100% good in every respect, I will send it back with your amp. Your valves tested VERY good so no need to change them, they are spot on. I replaced the blue LED (that had broken off) with a new one and also fitted a 100K glow taming resistor to R5...... the LED that was in there could have been used for laser eye surgery! Thank god it had broken off, I dread to think what the stock 330R resistor plus ultra bright blue LED would have done to my eyesight..... jesus it must have been like staring into a laser? Anyhoo..... all is good....... amp is 101% firing on all four. All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 1, 2021 20:36:33 GMT
Pretty much the same as electrolytics..... the band on the side of the cap (shortest leg) denotes "negative" and the long leg denotes "positive.
With a film cap it is always best to connect the outer foil to ground but not all film caps are marked with a "-" lead.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 1, 2021 20:04:55 GMT
Anyone put in better valves for the X-10D? Was toying with the EV Reflectors. Voskhod (Kaluga) or Reflektor (Saratov) can't be beaten IMHO..... they are sublime in the X-10D....... just make sure you source a genuine "NOS / Matched" pair from someone like erm..... me All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 27, 2021 19:40:09 GMT
You've lifted all the solder pads off of the PCB? Ah, they must have come off with the desoldering. I guess some must’ve been loose. That’s why the sound would only come through when I pressed down. I’ll send it up to you Mike if I can. e-mail sent James..... no probs at all...... I will post photos of the fix (how to solder direct to the tracks) using your V2 as the reference point (Not a Guinea pig experiment / I know what I'm doing / I think ) Yes, a couple of the solder pads may have had hairline cracks between the pad and track...... the pot is not "physically" secured to the front panel with a nut so (over time) continual movement "can" cause a hairline fracture between the solder pad and the track resulting in intermittent channel drop out and (eventually) permanent channel dropout. Anyhoo.... send the boards to me and I'll have that 100% good for you in no time mate. All the best, Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 27, 2021 10:10:21 GMT
You've lifted all the solder pads off of the PCB?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 9, 2021 20:28:48 GMT
Hi all, Since our beloved leaders have ordered our house arrests 🤭 there seems to be some rather questionable links coming up on the site. Has anyone dared to click on them or are we all far to cautious? Keep well, keep taking deep breaths Martin Hi Martin, Yes..... "world's largest dog" post (and all the other china spam posts) have been deleted The world's largest dog = www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2019/2/prodigious-pets-five-of-the-worlds-biggest-domestic-animals-558800#:~:text=Great%20Dane%20Zeus%20made%20a,verified%20by%20Guinness%20World%20Records. That f**ker would take a lot of feeding and a helluva lot of exercise to shit it out on the pavement..... I love dogs but that motherf**ker is bordering on "small donkey" in size..... not something you want indoors I have deleted all the China spam and the chinese spammers but feel a bit sad..... they (the China spammers) are the only folk who have taken the time to post anything on this forum.... world's largest dog, biggest penguin ever, man with three heads, mouse with three tails, Mongoose that looks like Hitler, Man with a penis that looks like Winston Churchill's nose etc. etc. etc. Good on them (for whatever reason) they're posting SHITE but that's what happens when we let the pandas into the lion's den. Time to pump our man balls up again. I really don't know what that means. Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 20, 2021 19:57:38 GMT
20th January 2021 - Mark Chesterton's Musical Fidelity X-10 V3 Buffer.... Full upgrades...... Capacitors = EPCOS / Nichicon MUSE / Nichicon Audio Gold / Panasonic FM / WIMA MKS4 and ELNA Silmic ll. 4 x wirewound capacitors were replaced with 1 x Ohmite Audio Gold (non inductive / non magnetic) power resistor. The stock JAN Philips 6112 valves (tubes) were replaced with a precision matched pair of JAN Sylvania (Green logo) 6948 valves, these are the military grade / ruggedized versions of the standard JAN Philips 6112 and originally designed for use in guided missiles..... they also do an excellent "non life destroying" job in the X-10 V3 frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/6/6948.pdf I also replaced the 4 way gold plated line input / loop output phono block with a brand new one. All solder joints were were made with the 60 / 37 / 3 (3% silver) solder. Before the mods: Out with the old: Stripped board: Completed mods: JAN Sylvania Green Logo 6948:
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 17, 2021 20:59:55 GMT
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