|
Post by whiteghost on Jul 31, 2011 10:52:32 GMT
Hello i've juste ordered a "Project Sunrise" Kit on : store.garage1217.com/project-sunrise-hybrid-class-a--tube-headphone-amplifier.htmlI'm wondering about the tube i will use... I'm sure i will order a vintage russian 6H23N but i seen that some peoples seems to prefer 70's Mullard E88CC or Tungsram E88CC... Is there someone who can advice me on the best tube to use ? I will use the "Project Sunrise" with a Audio-GD DAC 19-DSP (source slightly on the warm side)... There are any suggestion on the best tube to use ?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2011 11:02:47 GMT
I know nothing but surely this is down to personal taste? You will have, by general concensus, a very very good amp - that is a given - how it sounds will therefore depend solely on the tube you put in it and the kit you connect to it. To my mind then you may get a more hlpful answer if you advise how you like your music to sound and what other kit will be connected to it. But, like I said, I know nothing about such things . Dave.
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Jul 31, 2011 11:57:20 GMT
I will trust to PinkFloyd and go for a russian tube... but i've seen many topics about mullard or tungsram E88CC... i don't know the difference between all this valve...
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2011 14:34:51 GMT
Hello i've juste ordered a "Project Sunrise" Kit on : store.garage1217.com/project-sunrise-hybrid-class-a--tube-headphone-amplifier.htmlI'm wondering about the tube i will use... I'm sure i will order a vintage russian 6H23N but i seen that some peoples seems to prefer 70's Mullard E88CC or Tungsram E88CC... Is there someone who can advice me on the best tube to use ? I will use the "Project Sunrise" with a Audio-GD DAC 19-DSP (source slightly on the warm side)... There are any suggestion on the best tube to use ? Here is my humble opinion on tubes that I have and have tested, strictly based on listening tests, and very subjective, I must say : You can't go wrong with the 6N23P (6H23N is the same as 6N23P with English attempt to translate the Cyrillic nomenclature - a cyrillic 'H' is a latin 'N', etc.). Especially desirable are the ones that were made during the 1960's. Mike will be the person that can help you with that. I have about a dozen of them, and will not part with them. They have just the right combination of warmth and transparency that seem to make everything sound as was intended. I also like Telefunken tubes for their transparency and accurate rendition, with just enough warmth to make the music sound natural and not too clinical. You can pay a lot of money for a Telefunken, sometimes as much as $300.00 US for one , but there are less expensive ones to be found. Be sure to know whom you are buying from, and guarantee that you can return it if it turns out to be a lemon. One thing the so-called 'experts' look for is the diamond relief at the bottom of the tube, but I have come across some tubes which have that diamond, but are of poor quality, so I would let my ear be the judge! You also have to beware of knock-offs from China, which are of poor quality. The reason that the authentic Telefunkens are expensive is that they are no longer made, and the Telefunken name is legendary partly because of the legendary 1946 U47 tube microphone that is considered by recording engineers the 'Stradivarius' of microphones. As a recording musician, I have had direct experience with the U47 mike and I concur. There is a contemporary version of the U47 microphone for about $8,500 US, sold by BH Video in New York, but as I understand, the original classic 1946 U47 still commands prices upwards of $10,000 US! After Telefunken stopped making tubes, among other things, they re-branded some of the excellent Czechoslovakian Tesla tubes and sold them as Telefunkens. Siemens also made tubes for Telefunken, also very good! The original Czechoslovakian Tesla tube is a very well made tube. I have three E88CC original Czech Military Teslas, and they have the transparency of the Telefunkens, which I like. Another legendary tube is the Mullard brand , especially the one made in the Blackburn plant. You may ask Mike about it. I have a few Mullards, and love their great combination of transparency along with warmth, and full bass. The Amperex Bugle Boy tube, made in Holland, is another one you may want to consider. It also has the wonderful combination of warmth and just enough transparency to prevent it from sounding muddy. In my opinion you can't go wrong with asking Mike to select a tube for you. He tests every tube, and you are hence assured of quality. In the last couple of years I have accumulated a rather ample collection of tubes, which will last me a lifetime, and I think it is fun to roll tubes and experience the varying characteristics of each. One can spend a lot of time doing this, for you can not just simply roll tubes, leave it at that, and expect it to play well. Each tube, because of its individual peculiarity, has to be biased properly to the 13.50V desired voltage in order to sound its best. I hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Jul 31, 2011 17:42:03 GMT
In my opinion you can't go wrong with asking Mike to select a tube for you. He tests every tube, and you are hence assured of quality. In the last couple of years I have accumulated a rather ample collection of tubes, which will last me a lifetime, and I think it is fun to roll tubes and experience the varying characteristics of each. One can spend a lot of time doing this, for you can not just simply roll tubes, leave it at that, and expect it to play well. Each tube, because of its individual peculiarity, has to be biased properly to the 13.50V desired voltage in order to sound its best. I hope this helps. Tranks for your help, I don't have the time to collection tubes, i think i'll stuck on one and go with it... I will be careful with bias setting, thanks again for all theses advices
|
|
|
Post by Garage1217 on Aug 1, 2011 1:12:44 GMT
The 6H23N units Mike is offering are true gems! If that is the one tube you use with this amp, then it would be a very fine choice.
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 1, 2011 13:11:18 GMT
I just bought a "Gem" from mike it will be useful for the review...
|
|
|
Post by Garage1217 on Aug 1, 2011 13:59:14 GMT
Very nice! That is the recommended tube for her without question at this point.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2011 7:45:39 GMT
The best option. Mike knows valves and he would never steer you the wrong way.
The Russians are superb - I have them in my X-Cans. They are really musical valves.
Ian
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 6, 2011 18:06:32 GMT
Just bought another tube for test purpose, a 1962 E88CC Siemens-Halske NOS, now i think i'll just wait to receive the "Project sunrise" Fairly impatient
|
|
|
Post by Garage1217 on Aug 6, 2011 21:54:25 GMT
Went through LA 3 days ago so I bet it is scanned in France Monday
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 7, 2011 17:58:05 GMT
thanks garage1217
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 9, 2011 21:50:44 GMT
|
|
|
Post by Garage1217 on Aug 10, 2011 4:46:01 GMT
Yes sir, will work just fine. So far, I have targeted all of my valves at 13.5V which was recommended by the Frans man and he seems to be correct... on pretty much everything
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 10, 2011 6:00:34 GMT
but 6N1P is different from 6922, E88CC, etc.. and simply don't work on bravo or indeed amps, you mean that 6N1P can work on "Project Sunrise" ?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2011 6:05:32 GMT
The project sunrise is quite different from the bravo indeed amps on multiple aspects. 6N1P will work.
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 10, 2011 6:18:24 GMT
6N1P heater need 600+/-50(mA), 6922 only 300 are u sure it will work?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2011 8:03:01 GMT
Yep.. I know ... no problem for the sunrise The heater power supply is completely different from the bravo/indeed thingies.
|
|
|
Post by whiteghost on Aug 27, 2011 12:40:18 GMT
solderdure...
Is there a list of compatibles valves in the Sunrise Manual ?
Like :
E88CC, ECC88, 6922, 6N1P, 6N23P, 12AU7, etc...
With jumper settings
|
|
|
Post by Garage1217 on Aug 27, 2011 15:05:32 GMT
The next rev manual will contain a list if compatible valves. All jumper settings can be used with any of the compatible valves, except for heater voltage which depends on the tube used.
|
|
Z
Fully Modded
Posts: 3,391
|
Post by Z on Aug 31, 2011 16:10:06 GMT
The 6H23N units Mike is offering are true gems! If that is the one tube you use with this amp, then it would be a very fine choice. what is he charging for these anyway?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2011 16:29:21 GMT
Colt - to give is divine .............
Try giving something instead of taking!!
You'll make more friends!!!
Ian
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2011 16:45:53 GMT
The next rev manual will contain a list if compatible valves. All jumper settings can be used with any of the compatible valves, except for heater voltage which depends on the tube used. That's a really good idea Jeremy. I found the 6n23eb very good in Mike's Sunrise. Sad that I can't wait to get home so Mike can get mine off to me!!!! Ian
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 31, 2011 20:51:40 GMT
The next rev manual will contain a list if compatible valves. All jumper settings can be used with any of the compatible valves, except for heater voltage which depends on the tube used. That's a really good idea Jeremy. I found the 6n23eb very good in Mike's Sunrise. Sad that I can't wait to get home so Mike can get mine off to me!!!! Ian Ian, the ones in my Sunrise were bog standard 6N23P, "BUT" were top quality, 1969 built / NEVER used "genuine" new old stock. I have sorted you out a current production (well.... 1997) Electro Harmonix 6922 (made in Russia)..... I, usually, have no time for them as they differ between batches and it is very hard to get one that matches up on each side.... I went though 15 of them today and eventually came across one that is extremely close (per side) with regards to transconductance, gain and current so have fitted it in your Sunrise and think you may be pleasantly surprised. Just waiting for the additional heatsinks to arrive (I'll piggyback them onto the existing sinks) and it will be all ready to ship. Bad news is that (even with the valve shield AND pot grounding) the amp still picks up the "occasional" stray field and yours has been built with stock parts (apart from the 3,300uF caps).... whatever Jeremy says, this will ALWAYS happen with an unshielded / open frame amp but, thankfully, it only occurs "sometimes" and I don't class it as a problem. Peter (Indeed) "claims" he has lessened the problem with his G3 amp (which arrived today) and I will report back as soon as I find the time to plug it in..... so busy at the moment with all this gear.... good fun though and a sure sign that "summer" is over
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2011 21:55:17 GMT
Well, your Sunrise sounded terrific, Mike. I wonder what's been done to them to reduce noise. I'll put it in a biscuit tin with holes punched in the top!! Or nick a colander from the kitchen.
Tell you what - no chance of interference on Herm Island. It's only one and a half miles long and a boat ride for shopping. Electricity is too expensive to be wasted on interference!!
Ian
|
|