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Post by gommer on Nov 26, 2011 18:13:36 GMT
Anyone interested? This offer isn't exclusive to staff members anymore... The rules: – You pay the postage with PayPal. You can pay after I have shipped it. – Because the postage will be rather high (more than 2kg), it doesn't make sense to ship beyond Europe. Continental Europe will be slightly cheaper. – I need some time to make a parcel. I can't ship it instantly. – You obligate to post in the RG forum about your project with the t5725. A few pics would be nice, but not mandatory. I decided to do something similar as Mike. I want to get rid of some unused stuff. In my case, it's mostly computer stuff. I have a lot of computers and simply can't use everything. I'll give away some of this stuff for free (beside cost of postage which has to be paid with PayPal). First item that I'll let go is a HP t5725 thin client with 1GB memory and 512MB flash memory (on-board placed on a 1.8" PATA connector). It has six USB2 ports (two on the front, four on the rear side), parallel, serial and PS/2 mouse+keyboard ports. Video out is DB15/VGA. It has not a lot of processor power but the used AMD Geode NX 1500 isn't that bad. In fact, it's a low-power version of the Athlon XP, Athlon MP or Athlon XP-M with a Thoroughbred B core with 1GHz. The used chipset is from SIS with integrated Mirage graphics. It should be sufficient for audio playback if used with Windows XP (maybe XP embedded as sold by HP with the t5720 which is the same hardware as the t5725, but with WinXP embedded instead of a custom Linux) or a light Linux distribution. There's a 1.8" PATA socket on the board, but cables for that are hard to find (as are 1.8" PATA drives). I'd suggest to use the USB2 ports for flash storage. Booting from an USB drive is no problem (CD/DVD-ROM or flash/hd storage). What is really interesting is the fact that the system is cooled passive with a headpipe system and there are no fans. Power is provided by an external SMPS PSU (12V DC, positive polarity) and that PSU could be replaced by a custom PSU for audio purposes. The PCI slot can be used only with an optional HP expansion case (which I don't have), but you can build an own case if you want. Maybe a PCI riser card could allow placement of a PCI card in a low-profile hifi-style case. To use the integrated heatpipe, you'd have to use also the inner steel frame (while replacing only the outer case parts). The integrated graphics is rather slow and it's somewhat tricky since some Linux distros don't had/have appropriate driver support. The system is in almost new condition and I'll let it go for free. You'd have to pay only the postage costs. I guess the package will be over 2kg, you should expect postage costs for up to 5kg packages. This offer is exclusive for RG staff members and if Mike, Frans or Alex are interested, they'd be the first ones on my list. At least in Alex's case, I think the postage costs would be too high anyway. If you are interested, please PM me. All the best, Christian en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geode_%28processor%29h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/DocumentIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodClassId=-1&contentType=SupportManual&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3221863BTW: An Atom system (even with an Atom 230) will be faster than this system. But as mentioned above, it should be enough processing power for audio playback. I stumbled upon this while I was looking if a Geode would be enough to install XP and a music player (or Voyage). Reason: I'm soon to order a PCengines ALIX board for a router and was also looking at the ALIX3 boards with VGA and IDE (Geode LX800 based). Anyway, this post come out of the search engine as a single hit and... I'm interested. Is it still available? Cheers, Marc
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Nov 26, 2011 20:59:57 GMT
Hi Marc,
since no one wanted that thing until now, I've took it to my company. Perhaps it will get a terminal for our new ERP system. But this is highly unsure since this box is one of the slowest we have available for this.
I guess you have still a chance. Give me a few days and I'll look if I can take the box home again. I can't promise anything at the moment. We still search a few older boxes for using them as terminals (we have not enough at the moment), but I'm pretty sure that they won't miss it too much.
Regarding usable operating systems: Yes, WinXP should work on it. HP has sold a variant of that box with WinXP Embedded, mainly for space reasons (internal flash is only 512MB).
I've did a few tests with Linux though: Some distributions run very well if you use a FAST USB stick. Forget standard USB sticks, they are simply too slow. External USB HDs will also work fine. Internal HD's would need a PATA interface and the board has a "micro" PATA connector (where the flash module is connected). The main problem is an appropriate cable. It's the same size cable that MicroDrive sized HD's have used. These cables are extremely rare and not cheap (if you find any...). USB works well thogh (all six ports are USB 2.0, all are external).
Postage to Belgium should be payable, although I wouldn't describe it as cheap.
Cheers,
Christian
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Post by gommer on Nov 26, 2011 21:52:56 GMT
Hi Christian, Thanks for your intentional efforts. But don't do too much effort. As you say, I was planning on using an internal harddrive and the microdrive adapter might indeed prove to be a problem. Otherwise, i could use a good excuse to come skiing in Switzerland Cheers, Marc
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Nov 26, 2011 23:52:59 GMT
better late than never.
I just been trying these LM338K reg's to power an Intel D510 psu I use as a music pc.
The LM338K based psu's from this site are not working. more details later.
The LM338T based psu's I got from Audiowind surprisingly do work, just need a bigger heatsink.
beware of the LM338K psu from this site as the heatsinks are live, there are no protection diodes.
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Nov 26, 2011 23:57:00 GMT
Guys, Happy Easter, the bunny called by, hopefully the Playboy type. I've been following this thread with interest as a dedicated music server has been on my "wish list" for a few years now. Interest in power supplies also as the bandwidth of the AK Class A HA must be way up where SMPS noise lives, and because of this it bloody well picks up HF hash/noise somehow via the USB connection from my laptop to the NFB-12 DAC. Noise disappears when the laptop is run off battery. Anyway, I’ve been looking for solutions to this problem in the way of high-current linear power supplies that could also be used IF I ever get to making a low-powered noiseless (except for a little transformer hum maybe) music server. Excerpt below is from a message on this to Alex this morning. BTW, I came across this linear PSU on eBay that might make for a good 19V supply for a laptop or 12V supply for a low-power PC music server. I have a couple of 300VA 9-0-9 transformers spare which if wired in series for 18V AC would probably work OK for these supplies, and then I can use that little Audiowind 'AC/DC in' regulator board I have for a 2-5A 5V supply using a TO220 LM338 regulator or similar for peripherals like an external 2.5" HDD/SDD. cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290547727625&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:ITcgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250499486450&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:ITcheers.. jeffc Hi Jeff that 5A supply looks really interesting and good for the Wilbur. mmmmm i'm tempted. i noticed that When i started to use Alex's great USB PSU that the quality of my rips and playback jumped. so a linear supply for the PC would be interesting. you could try one on your USB between the laptop and DAC which would be interesting. anyway I'm off to EBAY for another look at that 5Amper. thanks for the info take care I hit reply instead of quote. This is the post and site I was referring too.
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Will
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Post by Will on Nov 27, 2011 9:40:49 GMT
Hi Allan, Notice you use 'regs' plural and not singular, so take it you have several supplies dor the d510 motherboard? I'd be interested in how you did it, but I'll explain my plan first. I have an 24 pin ATX power connector from an old PSU, which I'll use to replace the existing picopsu I have. The ATX connector will be connected to supplies for the 12v, 5v, 3.3v and -12V lines. Did you do something similar, if so, I'd be interested in how you handled the power good, PS ON signals and also what current you allowed for on the rails. Sorry for all the questions, but you know how it is
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Nov 27, 2011 11:12:03 GMT
Hi Will I'm using just one linear supply at present. It replaces the external 12v SMPS On board I'm using a 20pin pico psu The SSD hdd sleeps after the pc is up and running, all music files are on either network share or usb hdd. All files are played from ram. To do an analogue psu for the 20/24 pin is possible but whether it's worth it is ?? Whose supply voltages have to come up in sequence IIRC. I been looking at running the asus sound card from it's own psu or filter the supplied voltage lines. Allan
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2011 12:30:05 GMT
Hi Guys, Hope this is not viewed as 'thread crapping' - if that is the considered opinion, mods feel frre to move it - but I just wanted to make you aware of what I'm trying to do. I had a Vaio VGX-XL201 HTPC which recently played it's last tune so after discussing the situation with another very knowledgeable member here, and after receiving an unexpected refund from my dual fuel supplier, I have invested in an Antec Fusion Remote Max case (S/H but mint), an ASUS P8H67 MoBo, an Akasa ES 550W PSU and 4GB Kingston Hyperx 1333 DDR RAM to go with my existing ASUS Xonar ST sound card. Hopefully this will satisfy my need to play HiRes FLAC files on my mid-fi gear. Unfortunately it has proved not to be a simple case of plug 'n' play (I'm a numptie at sorting out 'confuser' problems) so I plan to hand the collection of unco-operative components to my local PC repair man tomorrow - I'll keep you posted . Dave.
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Nov 27, 2011 13:19:52 GMT
Why do you need a 550W PSU? Do you have a very power hungry graphics card installed?
I'm running an i5-2500K CPU on a motherboard with Z68 chipset and the whole box is filled up with components (16GB RAM, additional graphics card, two soundcards, additional Gigabit Ethernet card) and I have still big reserves with my 380W PSU.
550W seems a big OTT to me. Of course, there are only two problems if the PSU is oversized: Your electrical bill will be higher and the PSU will generate more waste heat than a smaller one.
There are also some (cheap) PSU's around that claim to have 500, 600 or even more Watts, but if you look at the exact specification of the output (mainly the 12V output), they have less power than good designed small PSU's. (I'm NOT thinking of the Akasa PSU's here, but "LC Power", "Superflower" and other crap.)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2011 13:36:42 GMT
Hi Christian, As usual, I appreciate your input. Regarding the higher electricity bill, we are not talking megabucks here, your 380W against my 550W, particularly when you consider the time the PSU will be running. My thoughts in deciding to choose the 550W was an attempt to future proof the HTPC as much as possible and not to have the PSU working flat out all the time it's in use. And it is possible I will go for a terrestrial digital TV card at some point in the future - the 'monitor' for the HTPC is our main living/viewing room LCD TV. Cheers, Dave.
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Nov 27, 2011 16:45:39 GMT
Sure, we're talking not about megabucks... and your PSU won't draw 550W all the time (it's only a specified maximum load). The real load will be much lower.
If your PSU is "80 Plus" certified (most newer ones are), then you need only a 20% percent load to have at least 80% efficiency, which is already rather good.
It's not an easy task to get information about how much power each device in your computer really draws.
The i3-2130 CPU you are using has a TDP (Thermal Design Point) of 65W. This means that it can draw a maximum of 65W under full CPU/IGPU load. Most current LGA1155 motherboards draw around 25-60W, but this can vary. I have quite exact ratings for my motherboard, but this was a coincidence since a well known German computer magazine did test that board thoroughly. In the last issue of that computer magazine, they had also a very useful table about the power consumption of most current graphic cards (based on the particular reference design).
You have certainly headroom for many additional devices in your computer. I guess that even an overclocked i7-2700K CPU with a really FAT graphics card would work without problems.
I have a "80 Plus Bronze" Seasonic 380W PSU. Seasonic also sells PSU's with a "80 Plus Gold" certificate, but they are fanless and the range begins at 400W. This for more than twice the price of the 380W PSU. The fan and the price was the main reason why I took the cheaper, less efficient PSU. I don't have anything against (good) fanless PSU's but I found it better to have a fan in the PSU because it is installed in the bottom of the computer case and has no other active cooling. The fan spins only very slow and is absolutely unhearable.
I've noticed also that it is very easy to get monster PSU's in the ATX form factor up to 1,2 kW, but below 400W, there isn't too much choice.
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Will
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Post by Will on Nov 27, 2011 19:49:20 GMT
Hi Will I'm using just one linear supply at present. It replaces the external 12v SMPS On board I'm using a 20pin pico psu The SSD hdd sleeps after the pc is up and running, all music files are on either network share or usb hdd. All files are played from ram. To do an analogue psu for the 20/24 pin is possible but whether it's worth it is ?? Whose supply voltages have to come up in sequence IIRC. I been looking at running the asus sound card from it's own psu or filter the supplied voltage lines. Allan Hi Allan, I'm running my picopsu from a smps at the mo, but I do reckon that it's worth replacing all the smps (and dc/dc converters in the pico) with linear regs. Over at diyA, there is a thread in the PC section on cMP2 mods, and after asking a question or two, it seems that the sequencing on start-up is dependent on motherboard. Sometimes there is no need to worry about it at all. I suppose there is only one way to find out!
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 1, 2011 6:19:07 GMT
Hi Will Sorry for the late response been away for work... to use a linear psu for each voltage line might be a bit overkill, but then this is DIY Can you measure the noise on each voltage line to see if it's worth doing each individual line. IIRC, the pico psu's were pretty good for noise except the 12V line. Found it, this was in 2009 www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=207Seems that the 12v line noise is relevent to the 12v brick supplying it. At present I'm just using one linear psu(LM338 based) to replace the SMPS brick. Allan
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2011 6:41:24 GMT
Allan What value filter cap are you using with the LM338 ? Alex
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 1, 2011 8:34:35 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2011 8:52:31 GMT
Hi Allan I think you may be using the same PSUs as Jeff is in his BIG Linear PSU. If you are running anywhere near 5A, you will need about 4 times that capacitance to avoid momentary voltage drops with program opening etc. Jeff added additional capacitance off the PCB for this reason with the Laptop power section of his big PSU. As a rule of thumb you really need about 4,700uF per Amp of current drawn. The present supply is more suited to varying loads such as Class AB amplifiers etc. Alex
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Will
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Post by Will on Dec 1, 2011 9:37:59 GMT
Hi Will Sorry for the late response been away for work... to use a linear psu for each voltage line might be a bit overkill, but then this is DIY Can you measure the noise on each voltage line to see if it's worth doing each individual line. IIRC, the pico psu's were pretty good for noise except the 12V line. Found it, this was in 2009 www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=207Seems that the 12v line noise is relevent to the 12v brick supplying it. At present I'm just using one linear psu(LM338 based) to replace the SMPS brick. Allan Hi Allan, thanks for the info and link on that, very interesting. I'd read elsewhere that people had had good results with a decent linear feeding these pico supplies, and I was thinking that as an interim to a full linear. Hmmm, reckon I'll try that 12V linear first now.
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 1, 2011 9:43:07 GMT
Hi Allan I think you may be using the same PSUs as Jeff is in his BIG Linear PSU. If you are running anywhere near 5A, you will need about 4 times that capacitance to avoid momentary voltage drops with program opening etc. Jeff added additional capacitance off the PCB for this reason with the Laptop power section of his big PSU. As a rule of thumb you really need about 4,700uF per Amp of current drawn. The present supply is more suited to varying loads such as Class AB amplifiers etc. Alex Alex The SMPS I have been using for this pc previously was 60 Watt the pico psu in the pc is only 80 Watt. I had a power monitor on the ac input and max draw was about 50 Watt IIRC. This pc is only a music player, built for low power consumption. The LM338T linear psu has been working ok for a few weeks Allan edit power monitor www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?keywords=ms6115&keyform=KEYWORD&SUBMIT.x=14&SUBMIT.y=4
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2011 10:34:06 GMT
Allan That PSU is vastly under-rated with both C and heatsinking for anything much more than 1A continuous, even if it can briefly handle short peaks to 5A.With an an Audio PC with Xtal oscillators etc. you really need much better than the amount of ripple in the example. Yes, I realise the LM338 is after the capacitor.
Alex
This is what Rod Elliot's site recommends in his amplifier PSU example. I L = 1.44, ripple = 2V p-p, therefore C = 5,040uF
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 2, 2011 7:55:51 GMT
Alex Yes large heatsink is already used.
just tried the power meter. max reading is 33Watt. so with 12Vac tranny that's about 2.75 amp max draw.
I need to find the instructions for this meter again. havn't used it for a few years.
Allan
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2011 8:19:21 GMT
Hi Allan As you would have seen from that ripple example, your PSU at that current will have quite a high level of ripple going into the LM338. Jeff used additional parallel capacitors off the PCB to supply his laptop,but you could do it neatly with something like the attached. 4 x 2,200uF plus the PCB shouldn't cost too much ? Alex www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=item&id=K3010
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 2, 2011 9:09:57 GMT
Alex Was Jeff using the K version or the T version of the LM338? Allan ps am using the 2 cap version of that Jaycar pcb in a CRC in my 20Watt Class A. 10,000uF - R - 30,000uF dual mono. pps I'll have to get the 20Watt class A out again and play with it. Havn't used it since I moved
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Post by jeffc on Dec 2, 2011 10:04:16 GMT
Allan/Alex et al Sorry to have missed this dicsussion. Below are a couple of pics of my laptop (19V), external 1Tb HDD (12V) and external BluRay writer (12V/5V) linear - all JLH enhanced PSU. All PSUs now work OK, "Ripleys Believe It Or Not". Busy ATM, but I'll get to details of the bits used later. cheers.. jeffc
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2011 10:31:23 GMT
AWESOME !
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pagan
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Post by pagan on Dec 2, 2011 10:56:36 GMT
Alex That's the audiowind one It's the one with 4700uF input and output caps and LM338 T. TO220 package It's the one I have working with the pc, abedt with a larger heatsink. The one's on Jeff's post (above) are the LM338 K. T03 package they have the 2200uF input and 100uF output caps They also have a LIVE heatsink The larger heatsink I use is this www.altronics.com.au/images/thb/H/H0560.gifI'm just about to test this heatsink too www.altronics.com.au/images/thb/H/H0554.gif
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