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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2013 21:06:10 GMT
As I mentioned elsewhere, a 30VA toroidal normally specifies a 0.5A fuse, or on rare occasions a 1A fuse. This transformer, due to it's size and weight is unlikely to be more than 30VA. Anything higher than a 1A slow blow type could see massive damage to the Aune and it's transformer long before the fuse blows in the event of a fault, unless it also has internal protection, which it more than likely does.  The transformer MAY also have internal thermal protection. A 3.15A fuse will need double that current through it to blow quickly. Alex |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 2, 2013 21:15:11 GMT
Alex, I was generalising and 13amp is not what I would use in my mains plug. 1amp / 3amp.... these are generally available from a supermarket. I would, personally, fit a 250mA (T) slow blow to a 30VA transformer for 230V or a 500mA (T) for 115V duty. Thing is, we are talking mains plug here |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2013 21:28:14 GMT
Alex, I was generalising and 13amp is not what I would use in my mains plug. 1amp / 3amp.... these are generally available from a supermarket. I would, personally, fit a 250mA (T) slow blow to a 30VA transformer for 230V or a 500mA (T) for 115V duty. Thing is, we are talking mains plug here Mike I agree. 250mA slo blow is more than adequate for most 30VA transformers.The supplied plug looks robust enough to supply an electric chair !  I doubt that Aune even considered the fact that the supplied plug is fused.The supplied plug with it's internal 13A fuse is designed for general purpose applications, including use with radiators etc.It's far more robust than any normal Australian mains plug.  Kind Regards Alex |
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Post by coil on Jan 2, 2013 21:30:30 GMT
Ok, will get 250mA slo blo for mains plug. Thanks for useful information!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 2, 2013 21:35:30 GMT
Alex, I was generalising and 13amp is not what I would use in my mains plug. 1amp / 3amp.... these are generally available from a supermarket. I would, personally, fit a 250mA (T) slow blow to a 30VA transformer for 230V or a 500mA (T) for 115V duty. Thing is, we are talking mains plug here Mike I agree. 250mA slo blow is more than adequate for most 30VA transformers.The supplied plug looks robust enough to supply an electric chair ! I doubt that Aune even considered the fact that the supplied plug is fused.The supplied plug with it's internal 13A fuse is designed for general purpose applications, including use with radiators etc.It's far more robust than any normal Australian mains plug. Kind Regards Alex Just an old habit.... I always fitted a 3amp fuse in my mains plugs (audio gear) as per www.esc.org.uk/public/home-electrics/plug-fuses/I wish I'd never mentioned it now  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 2, 2013 21:38:52 GMT
Ok, will get 250mA slo blo for mains plug. Thanks for useful information! Please don't...... 3amp is fine  |
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Post by coil on Jan 2, 2013 21:46:25 GMT
M'kay Btw, I was afraid that Aune T1 wont work so easily under Ubuntu 12.04 LTS than under Windows... but... just plug in and get some eargasm! No need for drivers or some setup. Just choose DigiHug USB Audio Analog output from Ubuntu sound settings and good to go ;P |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 2, 2013 21:57:09 GMT
That sounds like a good idea |
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Post by coil on Jan 3, 2013 19:37:50 GMT
Naaah, it seems that under Ubuntu it isnt so simple. Noticed, that output was set to analog and that seemed wierd. Also something had changed in sound (littlebit like mono). PulseAudio seems to cause problems. I`m using Clementine and its Gstreamer output setting must be set to ALSA. After that there should be DigiHub S/PDIF Digital out at sound settings - select it. Terminal: alsamixer ALL other sound devices and their input/output values must be 0 (F6 selects device). Terminal: sudo gpasswd -a yourusername audio Terminal: killall pulseaudio Just in case do also: sudo update-grub After that you can play files with different quality/bitrate/sample rate without software conversions - pure Aune`s job now. And NOW it`s pure audio-jizz in your ears!  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 3, 2013 21:23:35 GMT
As long as you got an eargasm  Thanks for sharing  Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2013 7:47:05 GMT
Mike My 45 year old son has been eyeing off the Aune T1 for some time. Earlier this afternoon he asked if he could have a quick look at it . I gave it to him to try, along with a modified short USB lead (+5V from PC disconnected) to try with it. He just came to my room to tell me that it's pretty damn good. He is into DJ type mixing. He says that his headphones now sound much better at the low end, and with a nice warmth . He loves it ! He has yet to try it with high res audio. Kind Regards Alex |
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Post by coil on Jan 5, 2013 12:30:52 GMT
After getting several eargasms with headphones I finally managed to try out PC (USB) -> T1 (RCA line out) -> amped speakers ....well, what else to expect than another eargasm. It`s like totally different soundsystem! Everything sounds so clean, pure, airy |
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Post by maurits on Jan 6, 2013 14:10:11 GMT
Today I got my my Aune T1 in. It is beautifully made and looks really cool. The T1 feels much better than it is supposed to do for €160.
But much to my chagrin I get the "the connected USB device requires too much power" message when I connect the Aune T1 with a USB cable directly to the camera kit on my iPad. iPad > CCK > Audioquest Cinnamon > Aune T1 USB in > V-Moda headphones.
What am I missing? The Aune T1 is obviously self powered. I suppose it should draw no current from the iPad.
I had expected the iPad and the Aune T1 to immediately match. In fact the dac/amp is advertised by Aune as a plug and play device for: Win7\Win8\XP\Mac\Ipad\Vista.
When I put a powered USB hub in between both devices everything works again. I was, however, hoping to get rid of that hub.
The whole problem is artificial anyway. When I disconnect the power cable from my hub, the iPad happily goes on sending music to the dac. So it is not a power issue per sé.
Any ideas? Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 14:28:16 GMT
Surgery!
On the USB lead. Try this with a cheapie lead, cut the red +5ve core at the "A" end and insulate it.
In theory the iPad will sense any voltage draw but still send the data.
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Post by maurits on Jan 6, 2013 15:00:41 GMT
CJ, thanks!
I just tried with a cheap A to B cable.
I cut the red core immediately after the A plug while making sure everything else remained intact. But still the same message from the iPad. It refuses to send data to the dac.
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gh0st
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Post by gh0st on Jan 6, 2013 16:18:21 GMT
CJ, thanks! I just tried with a cheap A to B cable. I cut the red core immediately after the A plug while making sure everything else remained intact. But still the same message from the iPad. It refuses to send data to the dac. a cheap, powered USB hub fixes this /dom |
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Post by maurits on Jan 6, 2013 16:27:42 GMT
gh0st, thanks!
I know. See a few posts back. But according to all publicity the T1 is supposed to be Plug and Play for iPad. If putting a powered hub between the two devices is an absolute requirement, I would not call that PnP.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 18:30:50 GMT
I had a quick shoof around and this seems to be an ongoing issue with many USB PnP DACs on the iPad. Apart from using a powered hub some DACs have been happy on a newer OS and different versions of the iPad itself will talk to different models of DAC. I am assuming you have the original iPad? cheap thing to try I found on my travels was: another forum see post 606Failing that you could ask the supplier or better, Aune themselves, to test the PnP on the iPad and make suggestions. |
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Post by sonofsteven on Jan 6, 2013 19:10:07 GMT
I recently got one of these from pinkfloyd and added it to my movie/ jukebox/ general tv/ lounge system- sony av amp fed by a mac mini pumping out alac's through kef q5's- and the improvement is incredible Its nice to be able to output straight into the analog direct section of the amp and circumvent its fairly poor (at least for music) converters to once again experience a more natural soundstage with tighter (and seemingly more) bass, well separated lower mids and highs that no longer make my ears bleed after one album! My only previous experience of valves is guitar amps so I had a slight idea of what I was getting into and have not been disappointed. I have tried comparisons between the stock valve and the one i ordered as an extra from 'mr floyd.' although the stock ehx tube was perfectly ok, changing it out for the vintage valve created an improvement that was immediately tangible on anything from Noisia- split the atom's fathomless grimy bass and high band percussive attacks- to peter green's fleetwood mac (rollin' man) with its very organic intimate recording and choppy musical interplays. The acoustic guitars and zither on neutral milk hotel's 'aeroplane over the sea' resonate naturally and the otherworldly vocals stand out further than I have previously witnessed, making me bark along hopelessly without even noticing it! I have no room for it in my proper hi fi system so can't comment as to any improvement over whats already there, but I doubt it would be any in all honesty. But as part of this relatively budget system that required marrying together more cohesively for better, more comfortable listening- its a revelation. Now to bust out the 325i's and Celebration day to see what the headphone stage is all about |
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gh0st
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Post by gh0st on Jan 6, 2013 19:52:29 GMT
gh0st, thanks! I know. See a few posts back. But according to all publicity the T1 is supposed to be Plug and Play for iPad. If putting a powered hub between the two devices is an absolute requirement, I would not call that PnP. Sorry for the duplication. I quite agree - the Aune ought not to claim iPad support if plugging one into an iPad doesn't actually work... I get the same effect on iPad3. I wonder how much current it actually draws - someone with one of these butchered USB cables could tell us if they put an ammeter in series with their severed +5V line. Anyone up for doing that? I'd also be interested to know if it works with the ground wire disconnected, as this would provide full isolation from the (potentially noisy) ground of the audio source. The ground may be used a reference for the datalines though, so this may or may not work. You can get widgets that effectively isolate the power between usb host and device (without cutting cables) but they're quite expensive at ~£30. /dom |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 20:09:03 GMT
More shoofing; There seem to be two problems; one that the iPad itself had its current ability reduced on USB to protect battery life claims. The other has to do with the DAC announcing to an Ipad what its current draw is. see here, there's a bit of fisty cuffs in the middle but the last post ( posted on August 27, 2012 at 03:22:57 ) gets into the groove. So if it's possible on the WaveIO it is possible on any. I am then assuming that USB DACs, that are external power only, should have their firmware changed so that the unit announces a zero or nominal current draw. Rather than leaving the standard in place and then claiming iPad compatibility. It would also help if Apple made their products more out-of-house friendly |
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Post by maurits on Jan 6, 2013 21:28:51 GMT
Thanks again both of you.
I sent a message to Aune explaining what my experiences are. I hope they get back to me soon.
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gh0st
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Post by gh0st on Jan 6, 2013 23:46:48 GMT
It would also help if Apple made their products more out-of-house friendly Yet another reason to shake a fist at the Evil Empire. Feeding audio to the T1 via a Raspberry Pi is my next project, somewhat cheaper than an iPad |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2013 0:08:08 GMT
Not even a USB memory stick will work without the earth wire connected. It's easier said than done to pull apart a heatshrinked USB-A plug, and insert a DMM between the cut red wire and it's terminal, WHILE it's plugged into the PC.  |
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gh0st
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Post by gh0st on Jan 7, 2013 0:54:33 GMT
Not even a USB memory stick will work without the earth wire connected. It's easier said than done to pull apart a heatshrinked USB-A plug, and insert a DMM between the cut red wire and it's terminal, WHILE it's plugged into the PC. If we're being pedantic I'd have to point out that USB has a ground, not an earth You're right though, I was thinking of cases where you connect a usb host to a device, but want to power the device with a PSU, not the host, so you connect v+ and gnd to the external PSU and just the centre two data wires go from the host to the device. This works in some circumstances and not others. /dom |
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The transformer MAY also have internal thermal protection. A 3.15A fuse will need double that current through it to blow quickly.
I doubt that Aune even considered the fact that the supplied plug is fused.The supplied plug with it's internal 13A fuse is designed for general purpose applications, including use with radiators etc.It's far more robust than any normal Australian mains plug. 
Thanks for sharing 
