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Post by PinkFloyd on May 11, 2006 19:30:16 GMT
Just changed my rear brake shoes and cylinders and have also just changed the front pads. I've always bedded my pads in by driving a few miles going from 80 - 10mph, then 10 - 100mph, then 100mph to 10mph then drive on to cool the brakes a bit then into 2nd gear foot on the brakes and foot full on the accelerator for about 500 yards. so on and so forth.
Do you guys bed yours in or just let them bed in slowly?
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Stormy
100+
Advocates putting smokers in a "Sin Bin"
Needs to learn to keep his big mouth shut.
Posts: 153
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Post by Stormy on May 11, 2006 19:52:22 GMT
I believe there is a chap on eBay selling a special CD you can use in your car stereo to speed up this process so you can get on with enjoying your brakes' full potential. From what I can gather it involves hooking up a pair of electromagnetic actuators to the amplifier outputs of your head unit, then in turn attaching them to your accelerator and brake pedals. You simply tether your car to a sturdy anchor point on a suitably large clear area of tarmac and let it drive round in circles. The CD simulates the entire spectrum of cadence braking frequencies, gradually improving the airiness and smoothness of the pedal at the top of its travel, increasing the taughtness and speed of the lower end and removing any wooliness in the middle.
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on May 11, 2006 19:53:32 GMT
just like with my audio gear burn in I just let the "in use" time take of it breaking in parts.
I have a personal theory that intentional break in of anything according to a plan creates an idealised pattern for that mode of expectation but not for a random act which natural occurances are and why I drive somewhere with no particular intention in mind to break in auto parts and listen to music to break in audio gear no different than if it were fully broken in.
Consider it on the job training........but different.........
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thegreatroberto
100+
The Great Roberto "himself" The real deal on a stick!
Posts: 157
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Post by thegreatroberto on May 11, 2006 20:16:17 GMT
Brake shoes and cylinders.Can you still get those Rick ? And yes, a good hard burn is just what brakes need.Don't fanny around. However I'm just running in a new set of bass cones on my speakers and I'm treating them gently for the first 50 hours or so, then I'll let all hell break loose with somthing that has some serious bass !
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 11, 2006 20:31:28 GMT
Yeh I was taught at a young age to bed the bastards in as friction coal develops on the pads at a temperature of approximately 280°C, the pads need to see this temperature in order for them to perform @ their best. If you fart around and just use the brakes softly the first time you do an emergency stop you run the risk of hitting something rather than stopping in plenty of time. I generally floor the accelerator whilst applying the brakes (in a low gear) until I can "smell" the pads burning and then I drive a few miles fast to cool them off. Repeat process a few times (hot and cool cycles) and the brakes will stop on a sixpence. Just thought I'd mention this as I spent the entire day fitting an exhaust, fitting rear brake shoes and new cylinders and also front pads. I also fired in some new spark plugs, synthetic oil, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter and then took the car to get new tyres fitted so, a busy day with the spanners and oil here She's running as smooth as silk now and all ready for the dusty season. If it moves, oil it. If it doesn't move, paint it. Follow these simple rules and you'll have years of trouble free motoring. Drop the oil every 3,000 miles whether it need it or not and fit a new filter whilst you're at it. Also a good idea to use a good engine flush before dropping the oil. Yeh, good to get out in the sun and get down and dirty with the car...... checked ignition timing and it's perfect, all I have to do now is coat the underside with it's yearly dose of waxoil and then wash and polish her ;D
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Post by PinkFloyd on May 11, 2006 20:32:48 GMT
Classic
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on May 11, 2006 20:37:39 GMT
hell yes though I have to say I would rather turn a wrench on the engine or other part of the drive train than to piss around with such things as breaks or the cooling system or electrical harness (fkn nightmare alley).
For those things I know a guy who is an ace automechanic but he has zero personal drive and is a 100% drunk so I first need to find him clear headed enough to understand me then haggle a price which we BOTH know will be $20/wheel+parts,i let him drink a couple of beers to steady up while doing the deed but i am RIGHT THERE supervising,ready to crack him in the head if he tries to sneak a nipper,then when the job is done i pay him and likely he dissapears for a month.
Why ?
Because this idiot will then proceed to drink up every penny and when he is broke beg a ride home (if I am still around I do it) at which time he will pick a fight with his wife,she will flat out whip his ass then call the cops and say he attacked HER and off to jail he goes !
fkn pathetic but the guy is maybe the best wrench turner I know and even though I know a thing or two this guy blows my doors off yet is broke and usually has a menial job because he drinks
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xerxes
Been here a while!
Posts: 1,115
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Post by xerxes on May 11, 2006 20:40:50 GMT
ROFL, taking the piss, just a little bit, methinks. Many years ago I had a Mini, the original dark days of British Leyland variety, not the new BMW version that's twice the size and weight of the original, and probably half the fun. This had a 1275cc twin carb engine, and was pretty quick up to about 70mph and an absolute hoot to drive, but it also had drum breaks and shoes all round. Basically, a stick nailed to the side like a go-cart would have given more stopping power. Also, the drum breaks had no self adjusting mechanism, so as they wore, which was pretty quickly, the pedal would just travel further and further, until you could push it all the way to the floor. I would need to adjust the breaks every fortnight or so and I got pretty proficient at adjusting the breaks; eventually I reckon I could do all four in about 20 minutes. This was still a real chore so I would adjust them "up" as much as possible so they were a bit tight and then let them bed themselves in within a few miles. This was all OK until one day, having just adjusted the breaks, I went down a long hill, because they were essentially half on they were red hot. When I got near the bottom of the hill and tried to break I found they had completely faded and there was virtually no breaking effect at all. Had I not had the presence of mind to slow down on the gears, I may well not have been here today. I sometimes miss that death trap.
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xerxes
Been here a while!
Posts: 1,115
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Post by xerxes on May 11, 2006 20:47:43 GMT
I'll never, ever flush an old engine again! I had a Kawasaki Z1000, with about 30,000 miles on the clock, quite a lot for a bike. I thought it woud be great to flush the engine and clean all the old gunge out of it.
After flushing the engine it smoked like a bastard; basically all the old gunge around the valve stem seals was the only thing stopping it from smoking.
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Stormy
100+
Advocates putting smokers in a "Sin Bin"
Needs to learn to keep his big mouth shut.
Posts: 153
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Post by Stormy on May 11, 2006 22:33:12 GMT
If it doesn't move, paint it. Windscreen/headlights? ;D Incidentally, I had my front discs and pads replaced a year ago, then nearly went into the back of someone because they don't work at all when they're brand new. I was rather new to driving at the time, so I had a go at the garage for not warning me. My rear drums failed on me in February this year, so when I had new shoes fitted I asked the garage if there was likely to be a similar probem with lack of stopping power, and they said "no, because the front ones do most of the work." When I change the front pads next (and it will be me doing it, not them this time), I will be inclined to try some sort of bedding-in process.
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