|
|
Post by vindicator66 on Oct 5, 2011 20:31:17 GMT
Hi all I have two X-cans amps a V1 and a V2
The V2 (bought on ebay) i recently purchased to replace the V1
There is a slight (but constant) hiss on the left channel (regardless of volume) and an occasional swirly hiss on the right channel.
I opened it up and there are a few light brown discolourations around the MOSFETS and some of the diodes but nothing too bad.
One of the MOSFETS under the power board was loose where the solder was old, so i re-soldered it to make sure it was connected proppery, but that didnt make any difference.
My V1 is Mint and sounds great, so i am a bit conflicted as what to do with the V2 in terms of investement to get it fixed.
Any suggestions?
Could both noise problems be down to the valves?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2011 20:33:26 GMT
Send it to the Flying Doctor in Scotland and get it modded. Both my V1 and V2 are totally silent as a result of their operations.
Book an appointment first though!!
Ian
|
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 5, 2011 21:41:04 GMT
Hi all I have two X-cans amps a V1 and a V2 The V2 (bought on ebay) i recently purchased to replace the V1 There is a slight (but constant) hiss on the left channel (regardless of volume) and an occasional swirly hiss on the right channel. I opened it up and there are a few light brown discolourations around the MOSFETS and some of the diodes but nothing too bad. One of the MOSFETS under the power board was loose where the solder was old, so i re-soldered it to make sure it was connected proppery, but that didnt make any difference. My V1 is Mint and sounds great, so i am a bit conflicted as what to do with the V2 in terms of investement to get it fixed. Any suggestions? Could both noise problems be down to the valves? Definitely the valves... the "swirly" hiss is textbook indication that the valves are knackered. The boards are pretty shite on the V1 / V2 and if they have been subjected to prolonged use (heat) there will be scorch marks evident. Nothing to worry about..... what to look out for is the pads parting company / lifting from the PCB. If this has happened (sounds like it) then scrape the track adjacent to the pad with a sharp craft knife until you expose the copper..... solder onto this to supplement / reinforce the joint. Again, don't worry about the "browning" on the PCB.... just shows the amp has seen a lot of usage (heat) and is not indicative of anything failing... just check out the integrity (and reinforce if necessary) the pads and track at these locations. Also have a look at the top board for bulging capacitors.... those 85C Jamicon caps don't last too long in there, especially if the V2 has come from a 24/7/365 always on home. Swap the valves over.... if the "swirl" migrates to the other channel then you've pinpointed the culprit  Quite an amazing amp but NOT so good when the valves / caps are shot. Hope this helps. Mike. |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 5, 2011 21:57:03 GMT
Send it to the Flying Doctor in Scotland and get it modded. Both my V1 and V2 are totally silent as a result of their operations. Book an appointment first though!! Ian Ian, I am winding down on that front (on all fronts actually) and am a rare breed of person who prefers peace of mind to "Money"..... I don't mind doing the "occasional" mod but DO mind when they come in thick and fast..... I don't want that I never discuss my finances "online" but am comfortable and have no intention (or desire) to spend my remaining days out in the workshop soldering I don't mind packing "kits" and I love building my Pinkies but modding amps (for some reason) annoys me! |
|
