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Post by Deleted on Jul 20, 2011 11:37:11 GMT
Looking good Israel, pleased your enjoying the finished result  Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2011 20:58:35 GMT
Looking good Israel, pleased your enjoying the finished result Mick. Thank you, Mick! I am enclosing some more photos of the amp, and a modification that Frans was kind enough to suggest and help me with, expanding the range of the anode bias voltages for both 6V and 12V tubes when the amp's jumpers at the input caps are at the bypass setting (BPC). I am extremely pleased with this great amp, and of all my amplifiers, including the two Necos (which I still dearly love) this is the one I have been listening to the most lately! I recommend this amp kit to anyone who is looking for an amp that has top-notch components, and renders high end performance at a very reasonable price! Thank you, Frans & Jeremy! You both deserve high praise for providing us with this wonderful toy!        Here is the simple modification that Frans suggested, which makes the combined resistance of the original 1K resistor and the 120 Ohm resistor in parallel to 107 Ohms, thus greatly expanding the bias capabilities, and enabling me to bias either 6V or 12V tubes, while bypassing the input caps.  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 23, 2011 21:50:16 GMT
You missed a bit Israel...... you forgot to solder a leg over at..... only KIDDING  Beautiful work and top class soldering.... that is a textbook example of how it SHOULD be done..... Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 23, 2011 22:04:40 GMT
I have not been "active" in this thread as I don't believe in jism'ing over something I don't know....
I have spent a good few weeks with the project Sunrise and can report my findings..... It is CRAP! avoid like the plague..... a transistor radio sounds better.
Seriously? BUY "Now"..... you won't regret later... the Project Sunrise amp ROCKS!..... I may even do a Victor on it and state "I like it so much I bought the Sun".....
ACE kit.... buy with total confidence.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 0:24:10 GMT
You missed a bit Israel...... you forgot to solder a leg over at..... You almost scared me, Mike!  Thank you! Coming from you, it means a lot, especially to a daredevil amateur like me! Cheers! Israel |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 1:12:28 GMT
Hi Israel
I heartily second that !
It's a quality of workmanship that many much younger people can't come close to.
It's even more remarkable given that you are an octogenarian !
Kind Regards
Alex
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 2:43:17 GMT
Hi Israel I heartily second that ! It's a quality of workmanship that many much younger people can't come close to. It's even more remarkable given that you are an octogenarian ! Kind Regards Alex Thank you for your kind words, Alex! They help in encouraging me to take up another project, perhaps find another high quality, maybe this time an all tube/valve headphone amplifier kit.  Do you have any suggestions, or know of any all tube headphone amp kits that you would recommend? All the Best! Israel |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 3:18:58 GMT
Hi Israel
I'm sorry but I can't help you with that one.
I converted fully to Solid State around 30 years ago.
Kind Regards
Alex
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Post by clausdk on Jul 24, 2011 9:57:12 GMT
Hi Israel I heartily second that ! It's a quality of workmanship that many much younger people can't come close to. It's even more remarkable given that you are an octogenarian ! Kind Regards Alex Thank you for your kind words, Alex! They help in encouraging me to take up another project, perhaps find another high quality, maybe this time an all tube/valve headphone amplifier kit. Do you have any suggestions, or know of any all tube headphone amp kits that you would recommend? All the Best! Israel Bottlehead crack should be pretty staright forward to build. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 14:25:56 GMT
Looking good Israel, pleased your enjoying the finished result Mick. Thank you, Mick! I am enclosing some more photos of the amp, and a modification that Frans was kind enough to suggest and help me with, expanding the range of the anode bias voltages for both 6V and 12V tubes when the amp's jumpers at the input caps are at the bypass setting (BPC). I am extremely pleased with this great amp, and of all my amplifiers, including the two Necos (which I still dearly love) this is the one I have been listening to the most lately! I recommend this amp kit to anyone who is looking for an amp that has top-notch components, and renders high end performance at a very reasonable price! Thank you, Frans & Jeremy! You both deserve high praise for providing us with this wonderful toy! Here is the simple modification that Frans suggested, which makes the combined resistance of the original 1K resistor and the 120 Ohm resistor in parallel to 107 Ohms, thus greatly expanding the bias capabilities, and enabling me to bias either 6V or 12V tubes, while bypassing the input caps. That looks like a useful mod Israel, as i can not set either sides biasing to 13.5 v when using the bypass cap mode on my Amp at zero volume. The nearest i can get is around 8-9 v, and 14.5v and 8v with volume control at full on. Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 14:49:17 GMT
You can either replace the 1k resistors to 100 Ohm or solder 120 Ohm in parallel to it.
It is the resistor right next to the bias pot.
This mod is recommended if the tubes can only be adjusted below 13.5V without reaching ever it.
So a tube that can be adjusted between upto 12V and below for instance.(high emission tubes)
In case the adjusted voltages are only above 13.5V (so for instance you cannot get it lower than 15V or something like that) the 10k bias pot can be replaced for a 20k or 25k pot resistor.
This is for tubes with lower emission.
With a 20k (or 25k) pot AND the 1k replaced by a 100 Ohm there should not be 1 tube around you cannot adjust properly.
If they still can't be adjusted it is faulty...
And there are a lot of faulty tubes around, even sold as new.
Buying tubes from Mike eleminates the problem of buying bad tubes.
Also note that some tubes can have 1 good working half and 1 bad.
Matched tubes should be O.K. (otherwise they aren't matched)
In case you have to unsolder the 10 k pot...
Simply heat all 3 pins at the same time (big blob of solder that covers all 3 legs) and pull the pot out gently (gets hot !)
Now suck out the 3 holes (solder wick or solder sucker) or blow them open by heating the solder till it melds and blow compressed air (spray acn or otherwise) and blow the solder out.
becarefull not to damage the pads.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 15:09:23 GMT
Ok Frans,
All the valves i have tried so far have come from Mike, so should be ok, they all fall short of the 13.5v at zero volume as specified in the set up instructions, so i will try 120 ohms in parallel, as Israel has done.
I can get the 13.5 volts spot on with all the valves with plenty of adjustment either way when using the "through cap mode", which to be honest sounds fine to me.
Mick.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 15:26:25 GMT
That looks like a useful mod Israel, as i can not set either sides biasing to 13.5 v when using the bypass cap mode on my Amp at zero volume. The nearest i can get is around 8-9 v, and 14.5v and 8v with volume control at full on. Mick. I had exactly the same problem, and this is why I contacted Frans for advice on what can be done to enable me to bias both 6V and 12V tubes. I told him that (just as your results show as well) I couldn't bias any of my 6V tubes (some of them brand new, or new old stock), and that on some I wasn't even able to reach higher than 2.7V with the jumpers at BPC. I had rolled about ten 6V tubes and the average I was able to reach at zero volume and BPC was 8-9V (just like your results). Frans advised that I replace the 1K resistors (the ones that are in series with the trim pots) with 100 Ohm resistors, but soldering 120 Ohm resistors in parallel is almost equivalent to that at 107 Ohms. It worked like a charm, and the problem is now gone! You may want to do the same, or desolder the 1K resistors and mount a 100 Ohm resistor on top of the PCB. I was going to do that after I tested with the 120 Ohm on the underside of the board, but since it is working so well, decided to leave it as is. Jeremy just told me that they will be supplying the new kits from now on with 100 Ohm resistors instead of the 1K. Thank you Frans!!! I am simply amazed at the SQ of this wonderful amplifier! I think it is just a matter of time before people realize this! IMHO it beats many fancy glamorous high end, high priced amps! Mike is absolutely on target raving about this baby! Cheers! Israel |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 19:46:16 GMT
Bottlehead crack should be pretty staright forward to build. Hmmm... Would you care to clarify this, or provide a link to it?...  Does it require a soldering iron, a syringe, or do you just drink it straight out of the bottlehead? ;D Seriously, Claus! I have no idea of what you are talking about. There must be a language barrier here. Or maybe I am of the wrong generation.  Cheers! Israel |
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Post by clausdk on Jul 24, 2011 19:58:51 GMT
Bottlehead crack should be pretty staright forward to build. Hmmm... Would you care to clarify this, or provide a link to it?... Does it require a soldering iron, a syringe, or do you just drink it straight out of the bottlehead? ;D Seriously, Claus! I have no idea of what you are talking about. There must be a language barrier here. Or maybe I am of the wrong generation. Cheers! Israel Here is a link for it: www.bottlehead.com/store.php?crn=44&rn=442&action=show_detail |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 20:35:58 GMT
My apologies, Claus! I was totally unaware of the existence of this amp, so please excuse my ignorance! I will take a closer look at this when I get some more time. Have you built this kit, and if yes, what are your impressions of it? Thanks for the information! All the Best! Israel |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 22:00:23 GMT
My apologies, Claus! I was totally unaware of the existence of this amp, so please excuse my ignorance! I will take a closer look at this when I get some more time. Have you built this kit, and if yes, what are your impressions of it? Thanks for the information! All the Best! Israel That looks like a nice kit to build Israel, for reasonable money. Has anybody on here built one, or purchased a factory built example, looks a nice simple design. Mick. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 24, 2011 22:19:08 GMT
My apologies, Claus! I was totally unaware of the existence of this amp, so please excuse my ignorance! I will take a closer look at this when I get some more time. Have you built this kit, and if yes, what are your impressions of it? Thanks for the information! All the Best! Israel That looks like a nice kit to build Israel, for reasonable money. Has anybody on here built one, or purchased a factory built example, looks a nice simple design. Mick. The Bottlehead is a nice kit to build but nowhere near as nice as the Sunrise..... the "customer" service is also a lot more "polite" and informative with the PS Why is it that some "Americans" have a "if you don't like it, f**k off" type attidude? they are doing themselves no favours...... that was the "vibe" I got from the Bottlehead man and I told him to go "f**k himself too with bells on" (have a banana) ..... he hasn't got back to me  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 22:39:48 GMT
Beat me to it, we were working on this last night For the current kits and built amps, the revision will be included and called out in the next manual rev. 100R fixed / 20K trimmer and I could not find a valve I could not dial in, in either BPC or TC, unless of course as Frans pointed out, it is a bad TOOOB Hi, Jeremy The tinkerer that I am , I am contemplating the possibility of doing the complete revision with the 100R/20K trimmer, and remove the temporarily intended 120R from the underside of the board to assure myself that in the future I will not come across a tooob that will not bias. Can you send me a PM with a link to the 20K trimmer? I assume it will also be a 25 turn one. All the best! Israel |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2011 22:55:37 GMT
That looks like a nice kit to build Israel, for reasonable money. Has anybody on here built one, or purchased a factory built example, looks a nice simple design. Mick. The Bottlehead is a nice kit to build but nowhere near as nice as the Sunrise..... the "customer" service is also a lot more "polite" and informative with the PS Why is it that some "Americans" have a "if you don't like it, FunKadelic CoWpat off" type attidude? they are doing themselves no favours...... that was the "vibe" I got from the Bottlehead man and I told him to go "f**k himself too with bells on" (have a banana) ..... he hasn't got back to me Thanks for your input, Mike! I looked at the kit, and to my eyes it doesn't look too elegant  , and in order to get the ultimate performance from this amp they are also peddling the Speedball upgrade kit for another 99 bucks , which brings the price of the kit to $318 US plus shipping. It may be worth going for it if I knew that it would indeed be in at least the same SQ class as the Sunrise. As much as I try not to, I frankly doubt it! Mick, Perhaps we should wait and hear from some people who have built it, and get some input about SQ, etc., although, as we all know, SQ is hard to describe, and let us face it, any attempt to describe SQ is very subjective. Cheers! Israel |
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Post by hiflight on Aug 4, 2011 23:28:27 GMT
You can either replace the 1k resistors to 100 Ohm or solder 120 Ohm in parallel to it. It is the resistor right next to the bias pot. This mod is recommended if the tubes can only be adjusted below 13.5V without reaching ever it. So a tube that can be adjusted between upto 12V and below for instance.(high emission tubes) In case the adjusted voltages are only above 13.5V (so for instance you cannot get it lower than 15V or something like that) the 10k bias pot can be replaced for a 20k or 25k pot resistor. This is for tubes with lower emission. With a 20k (or 25k) pot AND the 1k replaced by a 100 Ohm there should not be 1 tube around you cannot adjust properly. If they still can't be adjusted it is faulty... And there are a lot of faulty tubes around, even sold as new. Buying tubes from Mike eleminates the problem of buying bad tubes. Also note that some tubes can have 1 good working half and 1 bad. Matched tubes should be O.K. (otherwise they aren't matched) In case you have to unsolder the 10 k pot... Simply heat all 3 pins at the same time (big blob of solder that covers all 3 legs) and pull the pot out gently (gets hot !) Now suck out the 3 holes (solder wick or solder sucker) or blow them open by heating the solder till it melds and blow compressed air (spray acn or otherwise) and blow the solder out. becarefull not to damage the pads. Would paralleling the 1k resistor with a 100 ohm work just as well? It gives a paralleled resistance of 90 ohms. I have a good supply of 100 ohm resistors but am out of 120's, and I hate to make a special order for just a couple of resistors. Thanks! Ron |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2011 5:20:48 GMT
Hi Ron,
yes 100 Ohm in parallel will work too.
I wouldn't simply place a short though, nor go lower than 50 Ohms.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2011 9:53:06 GMT
I just had a close look at Israel's 'Sunrise' board, it it's been changed slightly from the one I'm currently listening to.
The one I have is 'Pre-Release' 2 so I'm wondering whether this changes would make sonic changes or whether it was a convenience thing?
I love the black board!! (Mine's green)
Ian
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2011 17:41:32 GMT
The major difference is the value of the output resistor.
The green one has a choice 34 and 68 and the black version 10 and 68 Ohm.
This can be easily changed by parallel-ing a resistor on the bottom of the PCB.
So in short aside from the choice of OP resistance the sonics are the same.
34 Ohm cannot be set with the black version and 10 Ohm cannot be set with green version.
So in that part... yes there are sonic differences.
When both are set to 68 Ohm the sound excatly the same (when the same tube is used ?)
In the same go you can also mount a 100 or 120 Ohm in parallel to the 1k resistor. (you can adjust more tubes properly that way)
Other differences are more cosmetic (the LED under the tube can only do 3 colors on or off (giving just a few colors) while the newer version can be set to virtually any color you want as you can adjust the LED stepless in all 3 colors.
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Post by hiflight on Aug 5, 2011 18:54:04 GMT
Hi Ron, yes 100 Ohm in parallel will work too. I wouldn't simply place a short though, nor go lower than 50 Ohms. I added the 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the 1K and it is working out just fine. I can now easily bias my valve using the BPC jumper. Before, it was not possible. Thanks much for the tip! Ron |
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Do you have any suggestions, or know of any all tube headphone amp kits that you would recommend? 
Does it require a soldering iron, a syringe, or do you just drink it straight out of the bottlehead? 
, and in order to get the ultimate performance from this amp they are also peddling the Speedball upgrade kit for another 99 bucks