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Post by coolmeadowkid on Aug 9, 2014 22:58:17 GMT
What tubes are you buying? My favorite so far is the RCA Clear Top. I have an RCA long black plate that is just so-so. Had to really think about the Clear Top since the other one didn't do much for me. I also have a Raytheon made Baldwin tube that is pretty good, just not as clear of bass as the Clear Top RCA. Do the cross talk mod ASAP! That also made a big difference for me. With some reading, you can come up with Frans' list (Solderdude), but I'm hoping to get it also as a one stop easy to use list. Not sure if I will do any of them unless the amp dies like others have experienced. Mine doesn't get hot with an 80mm computer fan blowing on it. Might make sure you have some extra help with air flow too. Jim.
edit: Forgot to mention that I'm using AKG K240s.
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Post by darkgenerals on Aug 10, 2014 0:10:14 GMT
Well thank you for the link. After modding this amp, I love this thing. Started listening to classic music agian, first time in 10+ years.
I've noticed that if I unplug from the source and turn the amp all the way up, I get a little hissing. Maybe need to do the heater mod? Either way, I may leave it alone, very happy.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2014 0:32:07 GMT
Hi
That's not a fair test of any amplifier. You should have the input terminated by a resistance more like the output impedance of the source. Modern CD players, for example have output impedances of less than a couple of hundred ohms.
Regards Alex |
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Post by darkgenerals on Aug 11, 2014 3:55:13 GMT
Thank you for the heads up, I'm still learning about a lot of this.
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Post by gr34td3str0y3r on Aug 11, 2014 11:00:38 GMT
I recently purchased the Electro-Harmonix 12AU7 and JJ Electronics 12AU7 to try out. Does anyone have any experience with these?
It will be a while. I had to import them to Japan, I could only find one of them in Japan and it was more than triple what I paid for it.
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Post by maximalz on Sept 8, 2014 21:37:03 GMT
Hi, I had a MUSE-Audio Headphone Amp with a 6N11-Tube on stock. I don't know witch Version it is? So I don't know witch mod is right for my MUSE-Amp? I need your HELP  please. Here some Pics of the MUSE: pic 01pic 02pic 03pic 04 |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2014 4:26:46 GMT
Hi, I had a MUSE-Audio Headphone Amp with a 6N11-Tube on stock. I don't know witch Version it is? So I don't know witch mod is right for my MUSE-Amp? I need your HELP please. Here some Pics of the MUSE: pic 01pic 02pic 03pic 04This thread is now 4 1/2 years old, and many of these amplifiers were lucky to even last >12 months due to overheating problems caused by poor design. Very few current posters are likely to have any expertise in this area. Far more reliable and higher performing amplifiers of this type, that were designed by one of the original main contributors to the thread are available from Garage1217 (Jeremy) www.garage1217.com/ |
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Post by maximalz on Sept 9, 2014 14:46:25 GMT
hi sandyk, thx for this information an the link. please understand, i know that the bravo/indeed/muse is a cheap chinese poor design. but by the way i search for this mods to save my muse lifetime, that save my money for it - too   so is there any member in this forum they made the mod and his amp works today?  ?? (please tell me) or is my muse the only one that is not killed by overheating    ?? if the mod work - i will do my very best for a giant new greater cooler to save the IRL510's and the LM317A's  best regards - maximalz |
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Post by floriangerard51 on Sept 9, 2014 20:47:50 GMT
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jc
Fully Modded
Posts: 5,417 
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Post by jc on Sept 9, 2014 23:42:00 GMT
Delightfully over engineered, a work of art! Did you fashion the carbon fibre panels yourself? |
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Post by maximalz on Sept 10, 2014 6:38:10 GMT
floriangerard51 - absolute AMAZING ... ... that's it what a fantastic work - 1A - TOP, a special thanks for the pdf link. but i don't think so BIG for the cooler the first pic's amp is a crazy design with the passiv cpu cooler , do you need the cooler so big? the second design is more like my idea, with the normal SK cooler. please tell me the dimensions of the SK cooler? with linear power supply is it? DIY or on stock? is it possible to tell me the right names on a list of the parts - PLEASE - so i can search it better on sites like conrad.de i have a beyerdynamic DT770 and a Sennheiser HD600 headphone, with tube is your favorite for your HD650? hey florian if you use your amp's in winter - you dont need any other heating in your rooms  power loss is not an issue  ... any one else out there ? THX - maximalz
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Post by floriangerard51 on Sept 10, 2014 12:00:02 GMT
Delightfully over engineered, a work of art! Did you fashion the carbon fibre panels yourself? hello Yes i actually have a CNC for Drone purpose (my facebook page : www.facebook.com/grenobledrone ) So i have many carbone fiber sheet to cut I like the carbon fiber touch... ;-) |
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Post by floriangerard51 on Sept 10, 2014 12:03:38 GMT
floriangerard51 - absolute AMAZING ... ... that's it what a fantastic work - 1A - TOP, a special thanks for the pdf link. but i don't think so BIG for the cooler the first pic's amp is a crazy design with the passiv cpu cooler , do you need the cooler so big? the second design is more like my idea, with the normal SK cooler. please tell me the dimensions of the SK cooler? with linear power supply is it? DIY or on stock? is it possible to tell me the right names on a list of the parts - PLEASE - so i can search it better on sites like conrad.de i have a beyerdynamic DT770 and a Sennheiser HD600 headphone, with tube is your favorite for your HD650? hey florian if you use your amp's in winter - you dont need any other heating in your rooms power loss is not an issue ... any one else out there ? THX - maximalz Well depending of the classA current you're choosing....the SK are differents. With the original 4.8ohms a "normal" would me enough but with 2.2ohms actually the 2 CPU cooler are 70°C after 10min working.. ;-))) For linear power supply i bought over ebay a pcb board and then populated with standard caps ans others...and a LT1083CP (quite expensive...) |
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Post by maximalz on Sept 10, 2014 14:21:41 GMT
70°C after 10min working that is terrible - with this giant cpu heatpipe cooler now i understand, what sandyk says about the overheating problems with the mod. floriangerard51 - 1) you use the amp's every day? 2) and the heat of 70°C is not a problem for you? 3) what is the max heat and was is the low heat - the amp's working? 4) how long you use your amp's in a normal headphone session? 5) the heat is the same problem as over clocking cpu's, is watercooling a possibility? 6) if i want play my headphones with 250ohms and 300ohms - i need a 2,2ohms? thx - maximalz
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Post by floriangerard51 on Sept 10, 2014 18:35:26 GMT
I added the original fans from ARTIC COOLING and with FANs @7v well both sides are now at 33°C.....without FANs 70°C! Theses are ARTIC COOLING big tower stated for 130W CPUs www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134i have the bravo V2 since 2012....and the little bear since june of this year... |
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Post by dingding on Sept 17, 2014 10:21:28 GMT
Hi,I am a diy beginner and my english is not good ! I have got Bravo V1 which work s with 6922 Russian tube . I had got the old FET 2SK134 which had been Unsoldered from old amplifier . I Want to know whelther I can the FET K134 instead of IRF630?
Thanks a lot!
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Post by darkgenerals on Sept 20, 2014 4:39:36 GMT
floriangerard51 love your modded amp. Would you mind linking the parts for the linear power supply? I'm currently in need of a new power supply, my stock on gives terrible feed back. Also, I tried to check out your link and download your PDF mod list and it said non valid file. Thank you.
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Post by floriangerard51 on Sept 20, 2014 11:30:16 GMT
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Post by darkgenerals on Sept 21, 2014 21:54:02 GMT
Thanks you for the link. I will be ordering a board soon. Does it come a parts list? Also ouch on the lt1083 price, digikey has them for 14.7 US. |
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Post by e346aa on Jan 8, 2015 13:47:22 GMT
Hello, guys! I don't speak english) Maybe you can help me to mod that shit) How do you think, what kind of Bravo V2 I bought? Is it latest modification of koriginal scheme in the top?    |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 8, 2015 21:05:31 GMT
Hello, guys! I don't speak english You just have Rox. I would rather tear my hair out thanks. I've seen it before and you don't own it Rox. Give up now, you are wasting your own time....... it takes you an hour to register / post images..... it takes me 3 seconds to ban you..... your call....... [/quote] |
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Post by e346aa on Jan 9, 2015 7:22:36 GMT
I've seen it before and you don't own it Rox. Give up now, you are wasting your own time....... it takes you an hour to register / post images..... it takes me 3 seconds to ban you..... your call....... Dear Pink Floyd) Can you explain me, what does it mean that word "ROX", please? Is it Amp name? Rox is bad? And why you are so sure that is not mine one? Maybe anybody can explain what relay installed in the righy of jack input? Thank you  |
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Post by jheu02 on Jan 19, 2015 22:18:35 GMT
Hello! I know this must get old, someone new joining the forum and immediately asking a question, so sorry about that. But I have read over this old/resurrected thread and have been considering one of these Bravo amps as a gift for my son. My main question has to do with tube rolling into it. I understand that the VR bias mod is best to do if you intend to do this. Does this also open it up to tubes other than the 12AU7?
For instance, I have a boatload of 12AT7s, but they're higher gain. Would there be other mods needed to get them running at their optimum? Or could they run "well enough"...at least not damaging anything else. I've been comparing the datasheets, but I'm not sure how much the big difference in plate resistance makes. I'm lacking in tube theory/design knowledge, but have rebuilt a couple console amps.
if the answer for this particular amp and 12AT7s is no, is that where the V1 comes into play with its switchable voltage? I do have some nice JAN 6DJ8s, 6CG7s, and adapters to use 6SN7s where the 6CG7s are used (again, a boatload of 6SN7s to choose from).
thanks for helping yet another newb in the headfi area.
john
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Post by zeejet on Jan 26, 2015 22:10:37 GMT
Hi all! I found this thread very helpful and makes a great summary of good mods. The PDF by floriangerard51 was also a great resource (although I do not intend on going as far as florian did with his mods). It doesn't look like this thread gets much attention anymore, but I had some burning questions (I'm fairly new to DIY).
I wanted the remove/replace the LEDs (the blue and red lights are very unnatural looking and fatiguing to my eyes). I understand that shorting them can do the trick, but I wanted to add a warm white led under the tube and have the red LED removed completely. Is it a good idea to simply short that connection and then replace the blue one with the warm white? I'm also assuming that this does not affect any of the mods that involve those nodes.
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Post by jheu02 on Jan 27, 2015 16:05:16 GMT
I'm still waiting for a reply here, but I'll try a stab at the answer. From my reading of this entire thread, it looks like the blue can just be shorted by soldering a wire across the leads. The red is needed in the circuit because it helps set the Voltage past it for the CCS if I'm remembering correctly. So go back through the thread or the file and see what specs are needed, and then find one in the color you like that has the same specs.
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please. 
power loss is not an issue 
