Bravo / Indeed Headphone amplifiers

[PinkFloyd]

The soldering seen on the pics Mike took a while back don't seem to be of high quality.At least certainly not up to standard.

Frans,

The soldering on the Indeed amps is actually VERY good quality.... as good as you will get these days.

Mike

[MaN227]

talking about miri here, I ask about power supply being 1A and not 1.8A as listing states. reply , 10 % off price. ok , ok. now try it out. and as u know right side no sound. contact... reply take it somewhere to fix it , pretty much lol. I can't believe it. need to toss that around my brain for a bit. to be honest I thought reply would be more akin to lets see if we can't figure out what the problem is and even send a new female 1/4 inch socket.

had some real sh!t luck here as of late in some regards.

what is the price diff between a 1A and a 1.8A psu?

10% is a savings of $5.64 for this sale.

[Deleted]

the amps are all about making easy money for them as they notice they sell being the cheapest tube stuff around.
Not about providing quality stuff to buffs.
the price difference (for a Chinese supplier) might be somewhere in this range they might even have to pay less for the difference.
It draws only about 350 mA (continuous it's Class A) so 1A should provide enough power.
Don't know about longevity ... ;D

Chaz,

take the whole thing apart and if you feel lucky again ship just the PCB without tube and acc. to me.
I'll fix it for ya.

[MaN227]

Mar 17, 2010 5:51:24 GMT @solderdude said:

Chaz,

take the whole thing apart and if you feel lucky again ship the PCB ONLY to me.
I'll fix it for ya.

lucky? hummmm lemme think about that .... howz about we sort out the modded 681, pads, plugs $$$ first ;D the 19th will be one month, PLENTY long enough waiting. If you can refund my money I'm more than happy to resend money to you should they ever show up.

on the miri I was offered 20 % discount to "take care" of this wrong psu and none working amp, seems its the hp female socket. hummm....

how can I tell if the socket is good or not?
how much does a new one and solder cost?
and would the difference of the psu cost and the cost of new hp socket that will fit this layout.... would they be less than 12.78 usd in total cost?
as that in essence is what is being offered off of total cost. I figured ship cost into getting that 20% off figure of 12.78 us.

does it sound like it'd be the socket bad solder or faulty socket? I'd hate to think there were more wrong with it and I have a interesting paper weight.

thanks all for input.

[Deleted]

check your mailbox (not RG mailbox)

You already knew you can have my modded padded recabled HD681 resent FOC or your funds back.

The search for it is just started if it doesn't arrive by saturday I will refund you.
The loss of the shipment will be mine... not yours.
It's a matter of trusting people and patience.

For this reason the last modded HD681 will be shipped today (Australia) as I have made no profits on this (except for the kind beer tokens of some RG members) and costs me lots of time and now money too.

[Deleted]

Frans,

Your work is appreciated so I hope you don't feel you're being taken advantage of.

I really appreciated your offer to play around with the Bravo and we all know how much time you've put into the HD681 what with filters and pads for us.

Actually, I wish I was more useful!! What with Mike and his ton of work/emails, you and the filters/pads and Claus and his wonderful thread on leather.

The leather one is great and has had me in stitches ........

Claus is such a character and working hard on the development of his headband padding with donated coats!!!

So just to say, thank you.

Ian

[Deleted]

Mar 17, 2010 3:17:58 GMT MaN227 said:

talking about miri here, I ask about power supply being 1A and not 1.8A as listing states. reply , 10 % off price. ok , ok. now try it out. and as u know right side no sound. contact... reply take it somewhere to fix it , pretty much lol. I can't believe it. need to toss that around my brain for a bit. to be honest I thought reply would be more akin to lets see if we can't figure out what the problem is and even send a new female 1/4 inch socket.

had some real sh!t luck here as of late in some regards.

what is the price diff between a 1A and a 1.8A psu?

10% is a savings of $5.64 for this sale.

I'm surprised that you weren't offered another one. You could send it back and cancel the order, I suppose.

Then when that's gone through, order a Bravo or an Indeed.

One thing about the headphone socket on the Miridy - it does easily move from side to side and doesn't strike me as ideal. The mini-jack input is the same. It just means you have to be careful when plugging/unplugging your headphone. (Or glue it down) I had the same feeling about the Bravo but looking at the Miridy has made me realise that the Bravo is better in this respect.

Not great to be told to go and fix it is it? The thing is, it's easily fixable but that's not the point. I suppose it's also a long way to post it back and then wait for another one. I seem to remember that it took a long time to get to you too didn't it?

Maybe this is the price we pay when it just gets too cheap?

Ian

[MaN227]

Ian, I paid 28 feb , took 16 days.

the G2 arrived in 10 days time.

I already have an indeed G1. I think to take the 20 % off offered and take it from there. I honestly don't want to trouble with shipping it back and waiting yet again. Rather fix and resell, maybe get my money back out of it, or keep it. yet to determine that as I need to give it a good listen first. Hell, I may just fall in love with it hehe

he [miridiy] did offer 20% off or to return it.

[Deleted]

One thing about the headphone socket on the Miridy - it does easily move from side to side and doesn't strike me as ideal.

Ian, the HP socket has 4 little locating pin legs, to mate with the board, problem is, no mating holes in the board, so it sits on the board held only by 3 soldered joints, not ideal for the loading required when plugging and un-plugging your HP lead.

I de-soldered mine, applied a small amount of Epoxy to the socket, stuck it on and re-soldered, solid as a rock now, apart from this issue i find the build quality to be on parr with the Bravo, and it does sound sooooooooo nice

[Deleted]

Yes. It's not good is it Mick? I might stick the devil down as well. I may go for an Indeed as well after I hear it. Especially if the build is good. The cost is just at a point where I start to think twice though, once you stick postage on top.

Or I'll go G1 if it's cheaper.

Ian

[Deleted]

Or I'll go G1 if it's cheaper.

The G2 is very nice Ian, and i like it a lot, but is it producing a better SQ than the Miri or Bravo, Hmmm not sure yet.

[PinkFloyd]

I think we can gather from this that the "Miridy" after sales support is crap.... the old addage "you get what you pay for" seems to ring true here. The Indeed after sales support is excellent so probably worth paying that little bit more knowing you are getting a better built amp with actual back up should it go tits up.

[mrB]

Mar 16, 2010 21:13:58 GMT @solderdude said:

IF the voltages on the adj pins are different (referenced to ground) than there must be a open connection somewhere.
Measure the resistance between the 2 adj pins with NO power to the device to check.

The voltage between the adj and out pins MUST be exactly 1.25 Volts.
If this is not the case then probably the voltage drop across the in- and out-put is too low therefore the LM317 is not functioning properly as a current source.

The LM317 also can be defective.

You will need to get the anode voltage up.
You can try lowering the current (8.2 Ohms instead of 7.5) and if that is not enough you can alter the Anode CCS current by exchanging the emitter resistors for slightly smaller values increasing the anode current and thus making the anode voltage higher which in turn makes the voltage drop across the LM317 bigger.

Re: Indeed G1

I have measured the voltages on the adj pins of the LM317s to be the same now with ref to ground (must have probed the wrong point first time round - i will go back to my earlier post and make a correction), and i measure no resistance between the two.

The voltage difference between the out and adj pins of the LM317s is currently 1.13V and 1.08V and between in and out 1.73V and 1.68V. Not very encouraging!

I'm willing to have a go at changing those resistor values you mentioned. Would it be possible to get trim pots that could handle the heat they would generate? that would be a nice way to do it.

Thanks again for all your input. Cheers!

[Deleted]

You will have to get the anode voltage somewhat higher.

The LM317 resistors will have to be replaced by the same wattage fixed resistors.
I would not recommend a pot for it.
WW pots sometimes have dead spots.

You can also replace the 3k resistors in the anode CCS circuit for a lower value say 2k7 or even 2k2 to get the anode voltage higher.


@ Ian,

I don't feel I am being taken advantage off by any member in the Grotto.
Sure don't mind modding things for others or even repair things.
I don't even want to be paid for the time... I won't charge anything more for the used parts then the price I paid for it.
I just hate it when you ask and pay someone for a service (the postalservices in this case) and they can't even do that right.
I take pride in what I do but feel there are many postal workers that don't give a ...

For me the neat thing about HD681/Bravo-alike's is the low price and feel that it should remain low priced.

[zenfire]

HI, and thanks for the forum, I'm new. After reading this post mostly through, and bleary eyed as I may be, I decided to buy the New Indeed MK2 6922, since it appears to have many of the fixes that you all suggest they do. And I bought the Bravo 12AU7. They are both on the way. Now I would love to find a way to buy a package of several tubes for both of them, and wondered what is the best way to compile a library of tubes. Is there a site with prepackaged varieties, or do I have to collect one by one? Also, any advice as to immediate mods to enhance the decks is greatly appreciated. Thanks for such a great forum. Cheers, Z

[toad]

Welcome to the Grotto zenfire

[mrarroyo]

Welcome aboard zenfire, if in the USA visit The Tube Store since they carry a variety of 6922 and 12AU7. However unless you find an use with a bunch of tubes to sell you will have to buy them one at a time. Cheers.

[toad]

Well I'm now listening to one of these wonderful little amps. Mick sent me his Bravo a few days ago, cheers mate and this is the first time I've had a chance to post my impressions of it.

What a cracking amp this is. Very, very musical. This little amp has ousted my Aune as my number 2 home amp. It's a different sound to my Solo but complements it perfectly. It's the sort of sound you can listen to after a hard day at work (and indeed I have) and be chilled out and tapping your feet within minutes.

It's a smooth laid back listen. Warm, rich and totally engaging and so relaxing you're likely to find yourself nodding off even during energetic numbers. This isn't a dig at the Bravo by the way, it's a compliment to just how musical this little amp is.

If I'm honest I prefer the sound of my Solo for those serious listening sessions but for just chilling out after a crap day this amp is perfect.

With the Bravo I can get into the music within minutes whereas my Solo can take me a good while to get into.

So it's the Bravo for those quick fix few tracks or single album sessions and Solo for the lazy afternoon or evening sessions when you have the time to savour the music.

As I said, a perfect compliment to the Solo. What a great little amp!

Ian

[PinkFloyd]

Ian, I was tweaking the G2 today and noticed this:



"Miri-Design"

Now....... Miridiy obviously stands for "Miri-DIY"....

WHY would the Indeed amp have "Miri-Design" stamped on it if it didn't have anything to do with Miri-DIY?

We have all assumed (possibly incorrectly) that there's a lot of backstabbing / cloning going on in deepest China..... it could be that these are all one and the same thing just being marketed under different names........

I must "ask" Peter

[attilio]

This may be of interest www.slugsite.com/archives/1289

[Deleted]

Anybody know where i can get a better quality same fitting push on push off switch as this:-




This one lasted all of 50 or less, on - off`s.

[Deleted]

I think you could swap it for one of these....
www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Switches/Toggle-Switches/Sub-miniature-PCB-toggle-switches/61573/kw/switch+pcb

[Deleted]

Thanks Chris, that`s the sort of switch i`m after, but there`s` loads of different configurations when you open the PDF specification chart, its doing my head in because i don`t know what i am looking for, other than something that resembles the original.

Mick.

[Deleted]

Hmmm, I'm approaching this from an uninformed/unknowledgeble angle Blind leading the blind?

I would guess, (I don't have to one look at)
look at the board tracks, are all the terminals being used?

If not which ones are surplus.

Maybe you have +/- in, +/- out for main power and poss. another +/- out to feed that blue LED?

Soooo, choose right angle for easy access, DPDT (if both the + and - pass through the switch from the power in, if only + then SPDT) then you choose on/off as appropriate to what you found. (not on/off/on or such like).

Together I'm sure we are able to blow it up

Hopefully one of our savvy brethrin will chime in ;D

Chris

EDIT by jove I think I've got it!



Negative is not switched, positive is, wired,for good measure, to both terminals of a dual pole, and 3lug pairs for anchorage. So, I'd say DPST right angle.

[Deleted]

Together I'm sure we are able blow it up :oHopefully one of our savvy brethrin will chime in

LOL, thanks Chris at least you have made me laugh, and i am MORE than capable of blowing the AMP up myself thank you. Cheers mate