bullpup
Been here a while!
How much is that doggy in the window?
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Post by bullpup on Sept 9, 2008 16:04:30 GMT
Afternoon all
The power amplifier in my main system has stopped working and while I track down someone who can fix it I need advice on a suitable temporary replacement that will ultimately migrate to power my computer speakers - a pair of blue-room minipods.
My main system consists of various sources with DPA 50 pre and power amps into 15" Tannoy Dual Concentrics.
I need either a nice integrated or power amp preferably secondhand and a "sleeper".
Any suggestions please?
Many thanks
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Post by derekrumble on Sept 10, 2008 11:41:18 GMT
How much money you going to throw at your temporary replacement?
I had a similar problem some years back when my MF B200 failed. Had two young kids then so couldn't afford to replace it with anything as good. So bought a Kenwood KA3020se via a mail order catalogue so that I paid for it in small chunks. And although I hadn't heard it, I was sure that it would be a sufficiently good 'workhorse' amp to last me until I could afford better. It runed out I wasn't actually that impressed with the Kenwood - it got sort-of muddled on complex passages of music. But it did me ok as a stop-gap.
However I now use it in my office / pc based system driving an old pair of JR149s and it's turned out to be a great little amp. It was only the other day that it occurred to me why I didn't like the Kenwood within my main system back when I bought it - but love it, now, in my office. Thinking back, I was using Magneplanar SMGa's at the time; a 4 Ohm speaker with, probably, a 2 Ohm minimum !! Not surprising then, the Kenwood couldn't handle things when the going got tough. It just didn't have the current I suppose.
So, Bullpup, what sort of budget do you have in mind? MY favourite cheap-but-sound amp is the Cambridge Audio A1 - cheap when new, only pennies 2nd hand via Ebay. Also I bet anything from Rotel would be great. I had a pair of mono-blocked RB971's for quite a while - solid! But those are all mainstream, consumer brands. It's all down to budget to start with... so give us an indication and I bet you'll be flooded with advice.
Derek
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Post by sometrolls2 on Sept 10, 2008 13:57:41 GMT
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2008 18:59:14 GMT
Also, most of NADs output, reliable work horses of decent sound quality.
Just avoid any model ending in "PE", which meant to stand for "Power Envelope" but we dubbed them "Pops Easily"!
Even their cheap integrateds, e.g. 3020 can be split (external jumper pins) to be pre or power only.
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bullpup
Been here a while!
How much is that doggy in the window?
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Post by bullpup on Sept 10, 2008 19:21:05 GMT
Thanks for the responses.
I hadn't really thought about the budget but I suppose in the worst case I could pick up an Audiolab 8000a for around £150 or so but I would be prepared to pay a bit more than that. So let's say a few £100 with a max of £500 but would prefer to go lower than that if possible.
Many thanks
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Post by ticktockman on Sept 10, 2008 21:59:15 GMT
I believe there is a DPA integrated on ebay uk at the moment that might do what you want very nicely and retain the DPA house sound, they also respond very favourably to some judicious modification if that is your type of thing. The Audiolab A has its pluses and minuses. IMO the late model versions were quite good with a nice phono stage for the money but be aware(I found this out to my cost) the earlier versions I think around pre 1991 use obsolete power transistors so if anything goes wrong you will have a very dead amp and no easy solutions for repairing it. I note you have 15inch dual concentric s... have you considered trying the dreaded class T amps like the Super t Amp or Trends TA10.1. Both are obtainable for around £100ish and give you about 6-8watts into 8ohms. I have used two pairs of TA10.1 vertically biamped and they sounded very impressive and much better than their cost or technology would suggest. Unless you play loud they may be enough to keep you going. If you need you DPA50 power sorted, Colin at Chevron(formerly Chevin) audio has repaired quite a few of them and knows them quite well. Well worth ringing him for a chat, he knows the DPA product range pretty well and what goes wrong and if they can be sorted out. Before you ask I am a fan so I cannot be considered unbiased on this .
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Post by sometrolls2 on Sept 10, 2008 22:29:40 GMT
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
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Post by XTRProf on Sept 11, 2008 11:34:12 GMT
How much power you need. About < 10 watts, don't forget the class D "digital" amps like Sonic Impact, Dr Amp and Trend Audio TA 10. I've been using 2 SI amps as backup amps for more than 4 years. Drives my 91 db sensitivity speakers quite loudly. Of course, don't expect the real oomph of a muscle amp. Hopes this helps.
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bullpup
Been here a while!
How much is that doggy in the window?
Posts: 517
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Post by bullpup on Sept 12, 2008 11:00:27 GMT
Thanks for the suggestions.
I will track down Chevron and see what he recommends.
I realy like the idea of the t-amps and the trends review is remarkable if it is accurate. Is it really better than the rest or are they all pretty much of a muchness?
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
Posts: 5,689
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Post by XTRProf on Sept 13, 2008 11:34:51 GMT
I realy like the idea of the t-amps and the trends review is remarkable if it is accurate. Is it really better than the rest or are they all pretty much of a muchness? Well, all of them uses the Tripath chip. So it should be about the same. How good the t-amp sounds will depend on PSU your are using. I had tried a car battery, as they uses 12V, and the round is really better than using those wall wart. More dimensional, better depth and, of course, queiter to give the first 2 attributes. But to warn you, don't expect the drive and dynamics of a muscle amp here, ok? Only loud enough for 91 db speaker sensitivity.
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