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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2008 22:24:55 GMT
Dave Those sharp pointed instruments usually get a workout when I take the easy way out (?) and use a Dalo pen for simpler PCBs. Mike Glad to see that you haven't left the Scottish Highlands and moved to a honeymoon suite yet ! I hope that you are still head over heels, and really enjoying life again.? Regards Alex
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jonclancy
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Post by jonclancy on Jun 15, 2008 16:58:11 GMT
Hi Alex, Your not wrong there, mate!! The 4P has a fold down rear door, so if you wait until the paper is being pulled through the manual feed, and flip the back hatch down, it wont trigger a paper jam message. Once the paper is just about to hit the pinch rollers at the exit, I pull up the tension release lever and presto, the work exits in one piece. If I try the transfer paper by itself, with no carrier piece, it gets jammed 100% of the time as it isn't stiff enough to push through the final set of pinch rollers. Took me ages to clear the first jam, ended up using tweezers to remove the paper bit by bit!! As it is, I get better results using normal glossy inkjet photo paper with less hassle than this stuff, but I bet it's down to operator error. I'd like to try the blue film sometime. My laser prints out excellent artwork - absolutely razor sharp. If I can find a reliable way (for me) to transfer it onto the copper, then I'll be well on the way to getting some really nice boards made up. I have been thinking about your suggestion for using less, etchant as well, Alex. As I'm now using single unit boards (rather than 4 on A5 sized copper), I'll be able to use the bubble tank with the 500ml of etchant I have here and use some cotton thread to suspend the boards just off the bottom of the tank. This way, 500ml will cover the board and as I don't et have a tank heater, then the partial fill won't matter. I'll warm the etchant beforehand by bunging the container in a sink of hot water, into the etch tank and away we go. Cheers Jon
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Post by canjunkie on Jun 15, 2008 21:12:45 GMT
I really need to get out more.............. Homemade etching tank.............. Made with: 1. Disused fish tank air bubbling thingy (Battery operated!) 2. Disused reptile tank heater (Brown cord) 3. Plastic 'tank' from pound shop 4. Small bucket (or small painters' kettle?) Further insulation to keep the water bath/etchant I dug out an old cooler box Cut up some strimmer cord & a slidebinder to make a board holder, added etchant & hot water........ Rinsed board - etched in 10 minutes rather than 45 - and no repeated trips from shed to get moore hot water So the boards are now trimmed and ready for trinning. All done in half an hour The boards are those I made yesterday with the white press 'n' peel system. Playing with electrickeronics AND chemicals - this is fun....
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2008 22:37:06 GMT
Dave Nice work! Amazing what a little heat and a few bubbles can do to help speed up the process. Alex P.S. I don't need bubbles, I am a stirrer from way back !
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insomniac
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Post by insomniac on Jun 16, 2008 0:20:23 GMT
Ingenious PS kids...don't drink the blue slush puppy
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insomniac
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Post by insomniac on Jun 16, 2008 1:38:09 GMT
Dave Nice work! Amazing what a little heat and a few bubbles can do to help speed up the process. Alex P.S. I don't need bubbles, I am a stirrer from way back ! Your right about the bubbles and heat.....though I had to file the sharp corners off the PCB's before putting them in the tank as my etcher was complaining. My etcher?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2008 2:15:45 GMT
You wish! ;D We can all dream though, can't we ?
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jonclancy
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Mr. Ripple Eater
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Post by jonclancy on Jun 16, 2008 16:28:07 GMT
CJ, you're a genius mate!!! Out of interest, here are some of my results using the toner transfer method with glossy inkjet photo paper. Still a little flaky on the transfer, but CJ's tips by PM helped loads - thanks!!! The only thing I haven't done is wiped down with isoproply alcohol after scouring with deterget, so maybe this might explain why my transfers have a few areas of non-stick toner! Here are the pics............... Cheers Jon
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Post by canjunkie on Jun 18, 2008 20:46:36 GMT
Tried out using glossy photo paper as a PnP sheet. The paper was cheap 'n' cheerful but I tried using it to do a sort of screen print job on the topside of a scrap board.... I'll be trying it again with better paper - the cheap stuff nearly trashed my iron
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2008 21:43:30 GMT
Dave You may need to spray the top of the PCB with a protective coat for longevity ? It may be better to do this overlay before drilling? Interesting ! Alex
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Post by canjunkie on Jun 18, 2008 21:53:44 GMT
Alex, I hadn't thought about the Lacquer - nice one! The toner seems firmly stuck to the board even when I'm scraping off remnants of paper. I did think about transfer before drilling but I'm wondering whether the holes let the water get under the paper - I seem to have much less trouble than the guy that suggested this method getting the paper off. I'll give it a go though I've tried out some Kodak Premium paper and the results are much better....
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2008 22:04:10 GMT
Dave What you need now is a Colour laser Printer . Alex
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Post by canjunkie on Jun 18, 2008 22:14:03 GMT
Dave What you need now is a Colour laser Printer . Alex I think I'll stick to the Henry Ford line - so........... You can have any colour print - as long as its BLACK
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jun 18, 2008 22:29:26 GMT
CJ.... I'll get round to populating those two boards this weekend and will offer one of them up as a "prize". I'll also do a step by step pictorial guide on "how to populate the board"... hopefully it will supplement the rest of the excellent construction guidelines.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2012 12:33:06 GMT
Hi All i found this lurking in the archives it's a great tutorial and it's pretty much what I've used for My build of Alex's class A PA. i did the reg boards,offset corrector and main amp boards. press and peel works really well even for the fine tracks found on the offset corrector. so time to bring this superb thread back to the top. take care
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