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Post by clk230 on Oct 26, 2007 21:16:06 GMT
hi , my 1st post hope someone can help. after having done the capacitor and diode upgrade to my v2 xcan i thought I'd do the same to my xlp. So i solder away replacing the caps with nice new panasonic ones replaced the diodes with the faster ones . Switch the xlp on, led lights up, left her to warm up for 20mins place some Chris Rea on the turntable. DISASTER STRIKES NO SOUND WHAT SO EVER  I've tried desoldering and re soldering in case of any dry joints. both Chanel's zero. PLEASE HELP |
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mrarroyo
Been here a while! 
Our man in Miami!
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Post by mrarroyo on Oct 26, 2007 22:45:17 GMT
Did you solder things oriented with the right polarity?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2007 22:57:40 GMT
clk230
I assume that you are powering with the supplied 12-0-12VAC wallwart ?
In that case it suggests that you have most likely made a mistake with diode polarity or something basic. I hope you didn't let the smoke out ? If you have a multimeter you should check the voltages across the main filter capacitors. These should be close to +-17VDC.
If you don't have a meter, I suggest that you take a couple of decent quality photos and post them if you are able. Someone more familiar with this type of gear may readily spot your mistake.
SandyK
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Post by clk230 on Oct 26, 2007 23:11:54 GMT
hi,
i'm using a diy psu made using the step by step instructions on mikes website, xlp was working fine before i took my soldering iron to her, i've modded my v2 with no problems at all.
will post some pics over the weekend.
i'm sure all the caps are in right using the + sighn on board as guidance and the thicker black mark for the silver line on diodes.
oscar
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2007 23:44:08 GMT
Oscar
It may not help, but I have attached the schematic of a fairly typical dual regulated PSU
Sandyk
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Post by sometrolls2 on Oct 27, 2007 4:53:45 GMT
Schematic of MM phono stage part, at least that gives a reading to check, I suppose you then work backwards or forwards looking for the problem. aycu31.webshots.com/image/33470/2004968006592269727_rs.jpgThe LED is probably taking power very early in the PSU circuit, so you could start at the begining. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2007 5:46:22 GMT
"the thicker black mark for the silver line on diodes."
clk230
If the diodes used are the 1N4001-1N4007 series, or the faster UF4001-4007 series, the silver/white band on one end is the "k" (cathode) This is the end that I have shown on the previous attachment with a green dot. If you have in fact reversed all these, the main filter electrolytics may also be damaged. If the diodes are the wrong way around,correct the orientation and try again. If still faulty, or with a hum,I would start by replacing all other power supply electrolytic condensers shown in the typical attachment. Hopefully, the voltage regulator I.C.s will have survived.
SandyK
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Post by clk230 on Oct 28, 2007 16:23:56 GMT
hi,
just checked the polarity ,all fine,so i've ordered some new regulaters.
fingers crossed.
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Post by clk230 on Oct 30, 2007 22:13:35 GMT
just fitted the new power supply regs,along with some slightly thicker internal wire.
powered up and all is FINE
thanks for everyones help.
will post any SQ difference (if any) once i've had a proper listen.
thanks again oscar
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Post by coolmaster on Nov 24, 2007 7:04:58 GMT
Replace those 5534 opamps to better types offered by National Semicon.
Remove the input coupling cap and 2 ea of 100k resistors altogether, replace 100k resistor with 47k paralleled with another 100pF cap.
Replace output 10uF cap with bipolar or some audiophile cap of your choice.
ALong with all other caps upgrade and abovementioned, the sonic quality will be lifted to another level.
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Post by clk230 on Nov 24, 2007 23:46:39 GMT
hi coolmaster ,
what opamps would you suggest , i've replaced all caps with panasonic fc types the power supply ones with slightly larger values,and fast diodes fitted.
definte improvement.
pictures and diagrams would be most helpfull.
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Post by coolmaster on Nov 25, 2007 1:44:27 GMT
My ears seem to like best, LM6171 (very revealing, utmost clarity and somewhat analytical and dry) which is much cheaper than OPA627 or OPA637. Don't worry about hi-speed opamp oscillation as the circuit already have some power bypass caps to the +ve and -ve. You could also try LME49710 or OPA134/132. Having said the results of the LM6171, the X-LP goes to an improved/upgraded internals X-10D to warm up the sound and enhance the musicality.
The X-LP or associated gear will certainly benefit from a more powerful AC tranny like the DIY one offered on this site.
I'll post up some pics soon.
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Post by clk230 on Nov 25, 2007 10:51:10 GMT
I'll try the lm6171 any idea were i can get them from,is it a case of just pulling the existing op amp out and plugging the new one in.
I've already made 2 of the power supplies as per the grotto site.
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mrarroyo
Been here a while!
Our man in Miami!
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Post by mrarroyo on Nov 25, 2007 13:19:50 GMT
I wonder if the LM4562 works in it?
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Post by coolmaster on Nov 26, 2007 3:16:09 GMT
LM4562 is a DUAL opamp and not pin compatible.
You'd need Single channel opamp type for X-LP. I believe the single version is LME49710.
LM6171 can be gotten from RS Components or Farnell.
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mrarroyo
Been here a while!
Our man in Miami!
Posts: 1,003
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Post by mrarroyo on Nov 27, 2007 1:15:31 GMT
LM4562 is a DUAL opamp and not pin compatible. You'd need Single channel opamp type for X-LP. I believe the single version is LME49710. LM6171 can be gotten from RS Components or Farnell. Oops |
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Post by clk230 on Jan 19, 2008 23:45:48 GMT
hi
well lots of listening between lp and cd(new clock)
not tried new op amps yet but vinly is sounding great the who live at leeds FANTASTIC
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