1500mA P.S. for X-can V2 (115V version now found!)

[sinwerm]

Just bought a used X-can V2 and am looking for wall plug in power supply to try some different tubes (the russian 6n1p) until I can afford the little Pinkie. Is this one suitable ? www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&productId=167151

Thanks , I been reading this site and all the fantastic mods make me drool. The only replacement power supplies I see are for U.K. voltage though.

[Deleted]

sinwerm
At the bottom of the main screen, do a "google" in rockgrotto.proboards39.com
Search for X Can V2 PSU
You will find an item called "Alternative PSU for X-10V3" by lukey. The answer is there in an item about a transformer from Rapid Electronics.
SandyK

[PinkFloyd]

Thge jameco PSU you link to will be absolutely perfect with the v2 Mrarroyo will be very happy he's been looking for a psu like this for ages.

Cheers man

[sinwerm]

Thanks for the fast replies ! Great to hear it will work since I already ordered. Will definately check out the post you reccomended also sandyk. So much good info here I been keeping a pen and pad by my side while I read this site , really great.

Yeah , I had a bear of a time tracking something like this down also , jameco ships them down to a quanity of 1 and mine has been sent out already so they seem to be trustworthy.
They also sell a 1000mA version with the same specs.

[Deleted]

Jameco is a great company to deal with. You will most likely start receiving regular copies of each new catalogue.
SandyK

[sinwerm]

When I get the PSU's (I ordered both the 1000mA and 15000mA) I will try to compare the difference with a more power drawing tube such as the 6N1P-EB. I also have a pair of 6N23P on order that should use much less power.

So now my new question is .... will the 12V output be higher , say about 13V or 14V because the lesser draw and load and the resistancne of the PSU is not being meant.

[Deleted]

That is the reason I gave the non commital answer of referring to the previous posting. I wanted to give you some kind of answer without waiting for Mike to reply. He probably had only just got to sleep . Different time zones are great fun aren't they?
I did expect that Mike would give you the definitive answer later on, as he knows a helluva lot more about the voltage tolerance of this type of equipment than I do.
(I STILL prefer a good solid state design, although I tried a new valve preamp circuit briefly a few weeks ago, great soundstage,but didn't like lots of things happening at the same time. Same criticism of an Ongaku valve amplifier worth over AU$100,000 that I heard years ago)
SandyK

[PinkFloyd]

So now my new question is .... will the 12V output be higher , say about 13V or 14V because the lesser draw and load and the resistancne of the PSU is not being meant.

Probably will measure around 14V with no load..... perfectly good the MF X-PSU measures the same (or thereabouts) no problems at all

[sinwerm]

Good news , thank you for the info PinkFloyd. Im a worry wart anyway and will never leave it plugged in all the time. Like my guitar tube amps though it does sound much better with a few hours of "cooking" before I listen.

[sinwerm]

Recieved my 2 P.S.U.s from Jameco today , one is the 1000mA the other is the 1500mA. Figure I would give some in-hand specs and information about them for those interested or to clarify.

Jameco ReliaPro (1000mA)
Product No: 10081
Model No: ACU120100
Input: 120AC 60Hz 16.5W
Output: 12VAC 1000mA
The 1000mA is smaller than the supplied 500mA from MF but almost as heavy.

Jameco ReliaPro (1500mA)
Product No: 167151
Model No: ADU150120
Input:120VAC 60Hz 24W
Output: 12VAC 1500mA
Nice big beefy PSU 1.5 LBS a little bigger than the MF supplied one but seems heavy for its size.

[Deleted]

It would be interesting to see how the 1A Jameco compares under actual load compared to the original MF 0.5A. Sounds like the original MF might be of a better quality . (Pommy built?)
It may even run cooler , too ? Looks like the 1.5A Jameco is probably the pick of the bunch.
SandyK

[sinwerm]

Im listening some Folk/grunge (Neil Young) and the 1000mA is running about the same temp as the stock MF unit from my palm temp reading , perhaps a little cooler even. Have not tried the 1500 mA version yet , no need as yet still waiting in on tubes. Im struck by the similar design of both these PSU units though. Seem like the same Chinese manufacture for the MF units.

[PinkFloyd]

The best off the shelf one I've come across (for the UK market) is the 1000mA Power Pax plug top psu Just £5 and comes with 2.1mm DC plug fitted so is a direct drop in replacement for the stock wallwart and the extra 500mA on tap sure does give the old V2 a very welcome boost in all departmnents.

[sinwerm]

Update !

Now useing the 1500mA PSU with a matched pair of 6n1pEB. The PSU runs about as warm as the stock 500mA with the stock tubes. No worries. Just a little warm on the palm. Nice sound from the 6n1p alot of punch but smooth.

I say this with a few bloated caps once I got inside my V2 to change the tubes. So very happy I am getting a V2 upgade kit from pinkie Thanks.

[sinwerm]

I will be sure to take some pics as I go along , can't promise I will be able to properly post them though I have a question about installing heat-sinks on the V-2. There are 2 sets of voltage regulators (?) on the bottom board one near the front one near the back. On both sets one has an open hole and the one next to it has another component connected through the open hole with a nut and bolt. For the ones with the open hole I have found a suitable heatsink. The ones bolted together I really don't know what to do about. Can I separate these compnents or do they need to be attached with the nut and bolt ? I have many heatsink styles around from building computers just need to know if these require a heatsink also. Hope I did'nt make this too confusing it's hard to explain.
Link to the heatsinks I can use with the open holes www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2216875&cp=2032058&f=Taxonomy%2FRSK%2F2032058&categoryId=2032058&k I will just connect these with thermal epoxy for heat transfer. www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm
What does everyone think ? have not done this yet. Can I separate the the ones with the nut and bolt then sandwich a suitable heatsink between or do they need to be insulated from each other ? Thanks for any input if all this works out well I will be sure to post pics LOL.

Also desoldered the P.S.U. board caps that my V-2 came with (used) they are labeled 6x 1000uF 35v tLec (brand) 2x 1000uF 16v tLec and 2x 470uF 35v TEAPO. The tLec are 105c marked and the TEAPO are 85c. I was told it was stock but these are not stock parts are they ? Going to replace all positions with these www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=401744&Row=877965&Site=US Going to wait for the rest of the kit from PF before I do it though , should have bit the bullet and bought all the stuff from mike though his prices are better and you know what your getting is the right part.
This should be alot of fun just hope I don't let the smoke out of my V2 I hear it's hard to get back in
Dimension and material specs for the heatsinks not shown on link
14x14x8 mm
10g each
solid copper
8 pcs (parts)

[PinkFloyd]

Just undo the nut and bolt and sandwich the heatsink between the two transistors... I would use a thermal pad between them if youhave one but this is not essential. Just make sure that the heatsinks dont contact each other (the one on the other transistor) and that they don't contact exposed parts of other components.