Output caps, V(dc)s & silly ideas...

[FauDrei]

...so I swapped the 220 µF 6,3 V(dc) non polar output caps on X-Can V2 with CapXon 470 µF 35 V(dc) ones and initial impressions are:

Grado SR80 reached new depths and improved in general.

Sennheisser HD600 subtly improved in detailing and staging...

But...

The same HD600 lost the "punch" in the bass section. It is still there, just it does not "kick in" authoritatively like it used to.

My questions are:

1. Does those new CapXons have to "burn in" before giving back to HD600 their kick? If yes - for how long?

2. V(dc) specification on those CapXons is much greater than original (35 V vs. 6,3 V). Does this V(dc) specification mean just maximum DC voltage that a cap can stand or it also has some other meaning? Something like charge/discharge speed? Could this difference affect the sound or it doesn't matter - like we can put there 100 V(dc) cap and have the same result?

Disclaimer: My electronics knowledge is very limited (consider that as euphemism) and I am aware that I may be plunging a major kick in the void. Going to anyway.

I have a silly idea that, being able to cope with five time greater DC voltage, those fine CapXons are not able to charge/discharge so fast/thoroughly as original caps did. Hence, my hypothesis is that exchanging 470 µF 35 V(dc) CapXons with 470 µF (or even 1000 µF) 16 V(dc) (or 6,3 V) ones could make a positive difference.

Is it worth trying this out?

Mike? Rick (even though you will perhaps implicitly help Sennheisers )? Others?

V3

[PinkFloyd]

faudrei said:

...so I swapped the 220 µF 6,3 V(dc) non polar output caps on X-Can V2 with CapXon 470 µF 35 V(dc) ones and initial impressions are:

Grado SR80 reached new depths and improved in general.

Sennheisser HD600 subtly improved in detailing and staging...

You'll notice a big improvement in the Grado bass as the 470uF doesn't roll off the bass the same way the 220uF does.

But...

The same HD600 lost the "punch" in the bass section. It is still there, just it does not "kick in" authoritatively like it used to.

My questions are:

1. Does those new CapXons have to "burn in" before giving back to HD600 their kick? If yes - for how long?

2. V(dc) specification on those CapXons is much greater than original (35 V vs. 6,3 V). Does this V(dc) specification mean just maximum DC voltage that a cap can stand or it also has some other meaning? Something like charge/discharge speed? Could this difference affect the sound or it doesn't matter - like we can put there 100 V(dc) cap and have the same result?

I only use 16V non polars in this postion. Electrolytic caps shouldn't really be used where the DC across the cap is significantly below the rated voltage. You'd think it may provide some degree of a safety margin but when you realise the dielectric is formed by the voltage applied across the cap they'll tend to lose capacitance when operated quite a lot below their rated voltage.

16V would be as high as I would go in this position.

[FauDrei]

Thanks for quick answer.

Do you think that V2 could manage 1000 µF 16 V(dc) in that position? Or, perhaps, would be more sensible trying something rated 6,3 V(dc) in 470-1000 µF range (but not CapXon NK)?

[PinkFloyd]

faudrei said:

Thanks for quick answer.

Do you think that V2 could manage 1000 µF 16 V(dc) in that position? Or, perhaps, would be more sensible trying something rated 6,3 V(dc) in 470-1000 µF range (but not CapXon NK)?

1000uF 16V work extremely well in that position in the V2, they're a bit big (physical dimensions) but you'll manage to get them in no probs. The 16V 1000uF Nitai isn't a bad sounding non polar (ie: it doesn't add much of it's signature to the sound) There really is nothing wrong with the capXon non polars either and, yes, they do take a good few hours playtime before they give their best... from new they'll sound pretty shrill and compressed which is why I give every amp I mod a good 48 hour workout before sending it back to the owner... they definitely improve over a few hours have no doubt about that.

Mike.