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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 12, 2007 21:05:23 GMT
A relatively cheap tweak here for you. Instead of running two output capacitors per channel in parallel (as is the case at present) fit only one larger value per channel. It makes sense that the signal only has to pass through one capacitor instead of two. I fitted 1 x 16V 1000uF per channel and I do believe there's a slight improvement and, as we know, any improvement however slight is worth the effort. Another thing I tried was damping the PSU capacitors by pumping hot melt glue in between them and adding felt pads to the tops of the caps, I'm sure the bass is now firmer.... could be my imagination but, what the hell, give it a try it's only glue and doesn't cost the earth  Looks like it was also meant to be there too.... looks even better in real life     Don't worry, it doesn't flood out all over the place just pump it into the space between the caps from the top and it contains itself within the space very nicely indeed. |
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Post by aurum on Feb 12, 2007 22:59:59 GMT
I got blutac on top of my caps & thought it made for tighter bass
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Feb 13, 2007 2:50:33 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 15, 2007 0:27:13 GMT
Rick here is a better picture of mine, would it be the yellow resting on its side or the square green sticking up. Thanks.  Keep the two yellows Miguel and lose the greens (desolder them or twist them off the board) the two 1000uF (the yellow ones) stay where they are.... seriously, if you don't want to desolder the green WIMA film caps just physically pull them off the board. I must have been on drugs to have fitted those  Literally grab them and then twist them until they snap off the board.... no need to strip the amp, they're paralleled onto the 1000uF..... just pull them off with all your might and you'll notice an immediate improvement in SQ.... my apologies Miguel, I was obviously in another zone when I fitted those guys ;D Mike. EDIT: I'm not joking about snapping them off.... just grab the capacitor body and twist it from side to side until it parts from the PCB..... that's all that's required. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 0:37:59 GMT
Mike/Rick I removed the two green Wima caps. However soldered in parallel (under the board) you also soldered two red Wima caps (one per green Wima cap) as show in the pic below (click on the thumbnail to view full size pic).  I also removed the two red Wima caps under the board. Hope that is the way to do it. If not let me know and I will re-solder them. BTW bass does seem to be more pronounced. Of course it could be placebo.  Miguel, I must have been on another planet when I did that (or a different mindset than I am now in) It will certainly sound better with both the bypass caps removed (NOT placebo) Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 0:45:11 GMT
BTW, wtf are those two zero ohm links doing there? The only thing I can think of is maybe I fitted some extra capacitance in parallel with the 2200uF? If so then I must have got 1 thing right that day |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 12:52:29 GMT
Yes, an extra 2200uF per channel..... nice  Get those two 10uF input caps out Miguel and jumper across the pads... also remove the two orange 470nF caps.... I'll send you some zero ohm links (to jumper over the 10uF pads) and also a couple of 470nF polyprops.... are you ok for UF4007 or chall I send you seven of them as well? PM me with your detail again Miguel and I'll get those parts over to you. Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 15:53:02 GMT
I'll send you a picture of how to jumper over the 10uF caps along with the bits.... will go out tomorrow.
Mike.
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Post by bennyboy on Feb 18, 2007 18:29:01 GMT
I still dont get why there are extra caps in your unit? did you add these? I've got your tubes boxed up, they'll go out Monday.  Mike, enclosed you will find a picture with arrows pointing at the items I believe you recommend I change. In the picture below I have an arrow to a 10uF cap (there are two but the second can not be seen on the enclosed pic), are these two the ones you want me to put a jumper on? On the picture there are two arrows aimed at two orange 470 nF caps which I believe you recommend I change for 470 nF polyprops. Did I get it right? As you can see on the pic below I already change to the fast acting diodes, is that what you refer by changing the 7 uF4007?  I will send you my address via PM. Thanks. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 18:33:53 GMT
No. I did an extra 2200uF per side. Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 18, 2007 23:28:32 GMT
Mike one more question. Now that I have 1000uF after removing the Wima's would it do any good to adding an extra 1000uF to each channel using another pair of the yellow capcitors? I mean will adding 1000uF to each channel increase the bass? Thanks. Miguel No, adding an extra 1000uF won't decrease the bass but the signal will be passing through "two" electrolytic capacitors where it will only be passing through one if you just use one 1000uF per channel. 1000uF is PLENTY for all headphone impedances: 16 ohm / 10Hz corner frequency 32 ohm / 5Hz 300 ohm / 0.5Hz 600 ohm / 0.3Hz Adding an extra 1000uF is overkill in this application and you'll have an extra cap in the signal path. MF used 220uF in the X-CAN V2 and obviously had a large stock of 220uF when they put the v3 into production so instead of buying in and fitting 1 x 470uF per channel they paralleled 2 x 220uF per channel.... the best "catchall" value IMO is 1000uF as it will cater for 'phones from 16 ohm to >600ohm. Before the v3 was introduced I was constantly harping on that the V2's 220uF should be upped to "at least" 470uF.... the v3 got 440uF (2 x 220uF in parallel) Since the advent of the v3 (and the extra space inside to fit larger caps) I've been a great advocate of 2 x 470uF in parallel... recently, however, I think it sounds better with just one (large value) 1000uF per channel.... not night and day better but 1000uF / 1 cap instead of 470uF / 2 caps seems the obvious way to go. 1000uF would be ideal in the v2 too, what's good for the goose is equally good for the gander, it's a bit of a tight squeeze to get 2 x 16V 1000uF into the v2 however so 470uF is the value I ship with my kits being easily mountable and well within spec for 32ohm - >600ohm 'phones. The v2 doesn't allow large caps to reside due to the inherent cramped nature of the design but it's possible to get 2 x 1000uF on board with funky angling..... I'll pop a couple into the jiffy bag I'm sending you Miguel, feel free to substitute your 470uF capXon non polars with them (the 1000uf "will" fit but you'll have to form the leads to make sure: A: they don't short out (lead touching)B: the caps sit nicely in the available space .... I'll go pop a couple in the jiffy bag now. A Filter frequency calculator should explain things.... www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htmResistor (ohms) = your headphone's impedance Capacitor (uF) = the value of your output capacitor Hit the "calculate" button and that will show the corner frequency. Try many combinations and you'll see that 1000uF is pretty much a catchall value..... do the same but enter 10uF or 20uF into the Capacitor field and you'll see just what I mean Darkvoice 336i is implimenting 30uF in this position....... check 30uF out with a 32ohm load Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 28, 2007 12:07:36 GMT
Awesome job Miguel, you're getting really good at this Should sound a bit better now eh? |
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Literally grab them and then twist them until they snap off the board.... no need to strip the amp, they're paralleled onto the 1000uF..... just pull them off with all your might and you'll notice an immediate improvement in SQ.... my apologies Miguel, I was obviously in another zone when I fitted those guys ;D 
Get those two 10uF input caps out Miguel and jumper across the pads... also remove the two orange 470nF caps.... I'll send you some zero ohm links (to jumper over the 10uF pads) and also a couple of 470nF polyprops.... are you ok for UF4007 or chall I send you seven of them as well?