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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 16:48:11 GMT
WARNING!! do not use 6N1P-EB (or any derivatives) in X-CAN V1!!!!!Hi, this is MaZa from *gasp* Head-Fi.  I've been searching for ideal tubes for my "new" X-Cans that is driving my DT880. Im looking for more "tubey" sound, better bass and soundstage and all etc... And affordable/easy to get ones, not-one-of-a-kind Mullard NOS costing more than piece of same sized gold. Any suggestions? Nick Dangerous recommends new JJ Electronic E88CC, but it isnt exactly favored tube here or so i understood. Then there are Tesla 6922/E88CC NOS Military ones that are quite affordable, but i havent found any info about those, how they sound compared to original ones? Same thing with Electro Harmonix 6922 / E88CC tubes.
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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 18:02:01 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 15, 2007 20:16:27 GMT
Hi, this is MaZa from *gasp* Head-Fi. Hi Mazda, welcome aboard the sinking ship  I tried a few many years ago in the X-CAN V2 www.rock-grotto.co.uk/valvetest.htm they should all be good with the original X-CANS. The 6H1P-EB are fantastic in the X-CAN V3 but not suitable in the V2..... I'll go, now, and fit some into my X-CANS (V1) and see if they're ok in it. I've had good reports about the electro harmonix 6922 valves, they're current production as are the JJ valves.... the old sovtek 6922 are also good as are NOS Brimar, Tesla, Amperex etc. Let me go see if the X-CANS like the 6H1P-EB or if it'll spit it out like the V2 does. I'll be back. |
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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 20:27:47 GMT
 Thanks. Looking forward to it. 
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 15, 2007 21:05:38 GMT
OK, It was out with my trusty old X-CANS, out with the camera and in with a 6H1P-EB. Here they are, fresh in 15 minutes ago:    First off, they are as quiet as a mouse. Rotate the volume control to maximum and not a sound, inky black silence. Wallwart is running cool which is also a good sign. Initial impression is BINGO! The superb 6H1P-EB works in the X-CANS (V1) as well as the X-CAN V3, this is superb news! Of course I'm running a modded X-CANS with OPA2107 opamps but that shouldn't make any difference.... I'll roll in the stock NE5532 just to make sure the 6H1P-EB are still good with them. As to sound, I don't need an extensive listen (but I will) I can immediately tell these sound as good in the V1 as they do in the V3, no doubt about that. Wonderfully open and beautifully extended bass. To be honest, this little guy (the V1) will be remaining out of the cupboard for quite some time, what I'm hearing right now is pretty fantastic. I must try these in one all three of my V2's just to make absolutely sure that the whistling I heard the last time wasn't down to the valves themselves or the particular V2 I tried them in. This is a new batch of 6H1P-EB from 1973 I've got in. One thing's for sure, the V1 is sounding like a totally different amp with them on board.... I'll definitely report back on this, thanks for asking about the V1 if you hadn't I'd probably not have bothered trying the 6H1P-EB in it for ages. Mike. |
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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 21:22:52 GMT
Oh man, I need to start bitching my parents or my relatives if they are willing to loan me their Visa or Mastercard... Few questions: Do you know a place where i can get 6H1P-EB, preferably in EU? Is it same as 6n1-P as this site states? www.triodeelectronics.com/6nsovmatpair.htmlWhat is that R.G marking on your X-Cans? Mine does not have one. |
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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 21:32:19 GMT
Oh, and question not related to this thread directly, but a thing I just noticed while browsing this site. While common word used is tubes, you Pinkie use valves? Why and whats the difference?  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 15, 2007 21:35:27 GMT
Do you know a place where i can get 6H1P-EB, preferably in EU? I've got 50 pairs of them so yes I do know somewhere you can get them The "EB" are the military versions of the 6N1P being a lot more rugged in construction and a lot longer lasting than the standard 6N1P. The site you link to mentions "All the 6N1P we sell are the heavy duty 6N1P-EV(Russian 6H1P-EB ) version" so they appear to be the right ones. Stands for "Rock Grotto" basically it's a heavily modded V1 with EVOX polyprops, Panasonic FM, dubilier DJ4X, OPA2107, all 10uF polar electrolytics replaced with 10uF non polar 105C types, Purple LED, Jalco pro headphone socket, 10K ALPS potentiometer, new gold plated quad phono socket, UF 4007 diodes and now 6H1P-EB valves  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 15, 2007 21:40:50 GMT
Oh, and question not related to this thread directly, but a thing I just noticed while browsing this site. While common word used is tubes, you Pinkie use valves? Why and whats the difference? Ok, The term 'valve' is a shortened form of "thermionic valve" that's what us Brits call them, the Americans like to call them tubes. And 'tube' is just a shortened form of "electron tube". Add the two names together and it gives a pretty spot on description of how these things work.... a Valve controlling Electrons flowing in a glass Tube due to Thermionic (heat) action. So valve, tube, thermionic valve, electron tube..... all mean the same thing |
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Post by maza on Jan 15, 2007 21:49:03 GMT
Ah, so it is Brit vs. Yankee english thing. Got it. Duh... Should have figured that myself...  Splendid!  You might get an email in few months. Need to sell some gear away first. How much you want from a working good pair? |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 16, 2007 0:52:59 GMT
Quite a few hours now since I installed the 6H1P-EB into the V1. The stock 500mA wallwart is almost in meltdown being roasting hot to the touch and the 6H1P-EB themselves are red hot. I'm measuring the progress but can pretty much say at the moment definitely DON'T fit the 6H1P-EB in the X-CANS (V1) !!!!!!!
I'll keep her running and see just what gives first...... My guess is the wallwart........ sounding absolutely beautiful but the possibility of total meltdown / fire dictates they are a definite NO NO!!!!!!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 16, 2007 1:45:58 GMT
Still playing away, scorching hot, SQ fantastic..... transformer and valves scorchio...... what will give in first I wonder..... will stay up and monitor the situation.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 16, 2007 2:00:45 GMT
One thing's for sure, the V1 beats the pants out of both the V2 and V3 respectively with 6H1P-EB on board, absolutely electric <listening to Kraftwerk "minimum / Maximum" at the moment> Meltdown hasn't happened yet but the 500mA wallwart sure is being put to the test! I'll roll in an extra 2000mA and see what happens if, when, she blows....... as it stands (as hot as it all is) the V1 outperforms V2 and V3 by quite some margin..... the original and, at the moment, the best..........
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Post by maza on Jan 16, 2007 9:07:44 GMT
Aiii! Poor X-Cans. And still going strong.
So, you presume that better PSU would fix the overheating problem?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 16, 2007 15:55:48 GMT
Aiii! Poor X-Cans. And still going strong. So, you presume that better PSU would fix the overheating problem? I decided to pull the plug late last night.... no point destroying a wallwart. All seemed fine for an hour or two then that wallwart started to get REALLY hot. I'll try the 6H1P-EB with a much bigger transformer and see how that gets on. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 16, 2007 23:18:09 GMT
Back to the 6922 again and I can't understand why this amp has been sitting on a shelf for so long, it's a super sounding wee thing! A lot more "valve" like in presentation than either the V2 or V3 and in fact Class A single ended triode. I remember just tweaking it with OPA2107, polypropylene film caps, a truckload of non polar electrolytics and some Panasonic FC caps and then sticking it on a shelf. Your post prompted me to fire her up and boy I'm glad I did! What a beautiful tone it produces..... very mellifluous, flowing yet full of sparkle I could listen to this type of presentation until the cows come home. There's a lot more going on inside the V1 than the V2 and I'm counting 29 'lytic / film capacitors, a couple of opamps and a few other extra bits and bobs meaning this would have been a lot more expensive to produce than the V2. A few of us here prefer the V2 over the V3, I must come out of the closet and confess I like this V1 better than the V2. On paper it may not appear as good with >80db SNR compared to V2's >108dB SNR and it's output power only 100mW but sonically it's hitting the spot sounding as sweet as a nut. Hard to describe but I'm getting the feeling the V1 is more of an "instrument" than an amplifier... as if it is part of the music instead of amplifying it. It's also a lot closer to the MF house sound than either the V2 or V3. Obviously the OPA2107 and different caps have squeezed a bit more out of her and I'm pleased with the result but I still can't believe this beauty has been sitting on a shelf for a year! What was I thinking?? It'll be sitting right by my side from now on and switched on 24/7! It's not very often you experience a real breath of fresh air and even more rare when it does blow in in the form of a 12 year old amp..... fantastic! Thanks for starting this thread, you've got me enjoying the "music" again Another little tweak the V series respond to is "foam" yes, foam, sit her on a block of foam and it improves the sound  |
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Post by maza on Jan 16, 2007 23:40:54 GMT
This almost sounds like something coming from Patrick of Headfi... *lol* So, I take that the better powersupply remedied the overheating problem? *edit* Oh, and im glad that you have found something new and exciting! If i understood correctly, you also do X-Can Improvement modifications to people with no DIY skills like me, no? (for money ofcourse) |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 17, 2007 0:04:51 GMT
This almost sounds like something coming from Patrick of Headfi... *lol* Probably, the Swedish do have a lot of foam between their ears Didn't try Mazda. The stock JAN philips 6922 are back on board and she's sounding heavenly. I'll make up a Little Pinkie V2 tomorrow and try the 6H1P-EB with it. Not so much found more rediscovered after a long hiatus. The V1 seems to have come round full circle. Quite a lot actually, I'm slowly winding it down though as I'm thinking about buying a boat and catching lobsters (or crabs) I do enjoy modding the occasional amp though. For money, of course, I can't afford to do it for free. Details in here somewhere www.rock-grotto.co.uk/xcanpropage.htmPinkie. PS: I'm the same Pinkfloyd from Head-Fi www.head-fi.org/forums/member.php?u=3810 or should I say "ex" member |
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Post by maza on Jan 17, 2007 0:45:25 GMT
Hmmm... you should do some organising I think, so finding information would be easier. So far, only thing i found about this subject is that X-Cans upgrade kit and its cost. But nothing about how much you ask about if you would it for butterfingers like me. But its late anyway, I'll do more extensive search tomorrow. I was just considering that if you could do about same modifications to my X-Cans what you have done to yours, minus the aesthetic stuff like volume knobs and whatever that affect soundquality (functional stuff only). Your X-Can mods are known to be very special, I'd love to hear what its all about. And I know your identity... Heck, how else do you think I would end up in this damp distant dark corner of headphone world. Ok. Lets see how it turns out. Oh, and i prefer eating Rice, not drive them.  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 17, 2007 0:56:47 GMT
Hmmm... you should do some organising I think I've been organising for years. I "intentionally" keep a low profile Honda |
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Jan 17, 2007 1:05:24 GMT
what does the X-Can use to generate the heater supply mike ? Is this a "derived" voltage tapped off the main supply or is it a separate feed ?
If separate just use an external 6.3 VAC 2 amp power source but if derived bump up the wall wart current to 2.5 to 3 amps so you can properly feed the "Valves" enough current
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jan 17, 2007 1:26:18 GMT
what does the X-Can use to generate the heater supply mike ? Is this a "derived" voltage tapped off the main supply or is it a separate feed ? If separate just use an external 6.3 VAC 2 amp power source but if derived bump up the wall wart current to 2.5 to 3 amps so you can properly feed the "Valves" enough current Have a look  ![]() freespace.virgin.net/mcg.mcg/v1upgrade/DSCF4264.jpg[/img]     Old pics, best I can do right now, off to bed. Those are pics of X-CANS (V1) by the way.... the original. Mike. |
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Jan 17, 2007 2:02:21 GMT
Doesn't tell me a whole lot man (dyslexia setting in and kicking my ass ) so how about this-how many connections does the power inlet jack have ? If just two (hot and ground) then all voltages come from a single buss then are split off to generate the +/- power source and the heater supply but if more than two mayb be (likely is) a separate power transformer winding for the main voltage and the heater supply. If the former just use the same type of trafos but with an increase in the current delivery to the 3A range.If the latter just use a separate 6.3V 2A ext. transformer to supply the heater voltage (and cut the present connection obviously) |
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Post by maza on Jan 19, 2007 5:37:20 GMT
For the love of God, if you really have to tarnish my good name with japanese cars, atleast call me Nissan! (cuz im driving one... ) Anything new on X-Cans? |
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Post by bennyboy on Jan 19, 2007 22:12:00 GMT
Still playing away, scorching hot, SQ fantastic..... transformer and valves scorchio...... what will give in first I wonder..... will stay up and monitor the situation. LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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You might get an email in few months. Need to sell some gear away first. How much you want from a working good pair?
