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Post by versil on Feb 17, 2006 20:09:19 GMT
Hi,
have troubel with my X-Can. Has everybody a schematics (as a jpeg or pdf)?
Thanks for help.
Versil
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thegreatroberto
100+
The Great Roberto "himself" The real deal on a stick!
Posts: 157
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Post by thegreatroberto on Feb 23, 2006 18:38:24 GMT
Come on ! Someone must have one. This sounds like a must have for all owners of an X-can and a soldering iron ! Oh you didn't tell us what the trouble was  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 23, 2006 18:49:25 GMT
I've got one somewhere for the main board only (no PSU) it's a trace out but seems pretty accurate in parts I'll go look for it.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 23, 2006 18:52:43 GMT
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Post by versil on Feb 24, 2006 22:15:34 GMT
…..perfect….thumps up for the schematic…thanks to PinkFloyd, I think that would be helpful.
My problem with the V2 (with X-PSU, Cardas Cabel and HD600) is as follows:
Every time I switch on my X-Can the sound in the left channel is distort. It sounds almost
very similar to what you hear if you turn off the PSU…a caps-discharging-fading-sound.
To solve the problem I have to pump up the volume to max reiteratively for a short time and
abrupt the soundquality is perfect.
Like that what I do with the accelerator of my old car at wintertime to activate all cylinders.
A great miracle is that a Grado (32ohm) runs fine (HD600 has 600ohm).
That won’t solve my case:
-the pot….I’d changed it to alps 10k
-the caps….replaced all with fc’s, silmics, Mundorf Caps
-the tubes….stock does it just as bad (at time SEL LORENZ PCC189)
-the HD600….switching the cabelconnectors and the distort goes over to the right channel.
I’m stumped with that problem….any suggestions?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2006 23:40:40 GMT
Was this happening "before" you changed the valves, the caps and the pot?
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thegreatroberto
100+
The Great Roberto "himself" The real deal on a stick!
Posts: 157
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Post by thegreatroberto on Feb 25, 2006 13:02:36 GMT
Um............as PF says did the proble exist before ?
If so, then as you can see from the drawing of the circuit,there are few items that could die and cause this.
Assuming that all your soldered connections are good,then I'd be after changing the output trannies.
PF is the left channel the "hot one" under the PSU board ?
The TIP 110 and 115 trannies are cheap and readyly available .........
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Post by versil on Feb 25, 2006 13:34:59 GMT
Hi PinkFloyd,
yes, it was happing befor I did the modifications.
It seems that a higher current is necessary to break the deadlock. That would be explain (IMO) the trouble-free use with the grados. I'm
understand it right that the lower impedance of the grados result (same pot setting) in a higher current at the socket?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 25, 2006 14:47:48 GMT
OK.
Using logic, if it was happening before you replaced the valves, capacitors and potentiometer and it is "still" happening then you can probably assume the caps and valves are OK so, therefore (as the man above suggested) look toward maybe the transistors and also double check "all" of the soldering joints are OK and are not bridging anywhere. Is the board directly under the TIP110 /115 transistors Brown? Have the pads the transistors are connected to lifted off the board?
This sounds really random but it's unfortunately the only way to go about fault finding, you have to first look for the obvious and (if you can't find anything untoward) it's a process of elimination I'm afraid. Seeing as you have "already" replaced the caps, the pots and the valves your process of elimination will be a lot easier, especially as this only happens on one channel. Try swapping over the transistors from the right channel to the left, if the problem changes channel you've found the culprit... if not you haven't done any harm swapping them over. Continue checking every last component, swapping them over to the opposite channel is the best way, it's easy to ascertain what component is playing up that way. Unfortunately, from your symptoms it's virtually impossible to pinpoint exactly what's causing this to happen, it could be a number of things.... just work your way round the board swapping components between channels and hopefully you'll find the culprit... it may be a long labourious way but it's the best way, you'll either strike it lucky with the first component you swap over or you'll find it's the last one you swap over (sods law dictates that's usually the case) Good luck and let us know what it was, when you find it.
Mike.
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Post by versil on Feb 25, 2006 15:47:09 GMT
Only the TIP110/115 under the PSU is a littel bit brown on the PCB. The board under the other TIP-triple (near the pot) is in mint condition. I guess this is a thermic problem of the impeded convection under the PSU-board.
At first I will resolder the jack an the RCA-Unit. These point are under a lot of mechanical stress. I've checked all soldering joint without any result but sometime it's hard to see.
After that I will follow your tip and swapping the components between the channels.
I will report about my findings.........
By the way, the both TIPs are easily to source (RS) but I found no dealer for the 2SC3788?
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thegreatroberto
100+
The Great Roberto "himself" The real deal on a stick!
Posts: 157
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Post by thegreatroberto on Feb 25, 2006 17:44:21 GMT
Yep.RS supply the 110 and 115's.Go for the ( i think) 4 amp versions.The 2sc3788 is not supplied by RS.Use Google, there are UK suppliers of these.
Oh, are the trannies under the psu board wobbly ?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 25, 2006 17:49:29 GMT
Looking into the 2SC3788 thing right this minute, will post back.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 25, 2006 17:50:54 GMT
Only the TIP110/115 under the PSU is a littel bit brown on the PCB. The board under the other TIP-triple (near the pot) is in mint condition. I guess this is a thermic problem of the impeded convection under the PSU-board. At first I will resolder the jack an the RCA-Unit. These point are under a lot of mechanical stress. I've checked all soldering joint without any result but sometime it's hard to see. After that I will follow your tip and swapping the components between the channels. I will report about my findings......... By the way, the both TIPs are easily to source (RS) but I found no dealer for the 2SC3788? Try swapping the valves first.... the left to the right and the right to the left, see what happens. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 25, 2006 17:59:46 GMT
Also, pictures sometimes assist in diagnosing... do you have any?
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 25, 2006 18:35:36 GMT
David White of White Noise Audio sells the 2SC3788 transistors. 90p each + 50p postage and packing.
Contact David @ david.white38@ntlworld.com
Mike.
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Post by versil on Feb 26, 2006 18:39:45 GMT
Hi thegreatroberto, no the transistors don't look wobbly, I've resolder the transistors-joints.
Only my English is a little wobbly :-)
I think I'm a little bit wiser now.......I took no notice of the weak left channel because I changed my warm-up-procedure. Today I did it like I usually do it....spend the X-Can 30 minutes before I listen to him....and....the left channel work fine. Due to the fact that I've upgrade the caps I us the headphones right from the start ( I'm a curious boy and I would hear the unequal sound-quality cold/warm X-Can.
So, perhaps the valves-conditions (heater?) may not be ideal right from the start. IMO a normal behavior for a tube.
And I can report that these kind of power-down-noise (attention...not my problem! I mean this last breath out of the headphone that every? X-Can-owner knows) is absolutely gone after the caps-replacement ( double all µ's).
Pictures, yes a large and interesting gallery but I have not a personal www. which is necessary to post my pics. Our is there another way to do it?
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thegreatroberto
100+
The Great Roberto "himself" The real deal on a stick!
Posts: 157
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Post by thegreatroberto on Feb 26, 2006 20:21:27 GMT
It shoul only 10 no more than 10 seconds to charge the caps and get the X-canV2 ready for action.Okay,so any tube device does need to heat up so 20 mins or so is better than trying to use it cold.
I did use to keep my X-cans on all the time.MF claim they can be left on.However,I think we have all seen the effects that that has..........Burnt boards,caps that have been cooked,trannies that have got so hot they have lifted tracks.So, for me and my X-canV2,I give it 10 mins or so prior to playing and then switch it off before bedtime.
Anyway.What about a new game.How long can you listen to your X-cans/V2/V3 after turning it off ? Or, how much capacitance do you have ? Capacitance for me is 30,800uF............Yes,8*3300uF@35V and a pair of 25V 2200uF's..................Come on beat that !
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 26, 2006 22:28:43 GMT
It shoul only 10 no more than 10 seconds to charge the caps and get the X-canV2 ready for action.Okay,so any tube device does need to heat up so 20 mins or so is better than trying to use it cold. I did use to keep my X-cans on all the time.MF claim they can be left on.However,I think we have all seen the effects that that has..........Burnt boards,caps that have been cooked,trannies that have got so hot they have lifted tracks.So, for me and my X-canV2,I give it 10 mins or so prior to playing and then switch it off before bedtime. Anyway.What about a new game.How long can you listen to your X-cans/V2/V3 after turning it off ? Or, how much capacitance do you have ? Capacitance for me is 30,800uF............Yes,8*3300uF@35V and a pair of 25V 2200uF's..................Come on beat that ! I don't have it now but you have to believe me I was running one with 10 x 6000uF (high inrush current limiters, the works) it was in a bigger enclosure and, to be honest, not the same improvement as going from 1000uF to 2200uF plus the disadvantage of losing the lovely little X-CAN enclosure. That schematic, by the way, is flawed.. a few of the resistor values are wrong. I spotted it when writing my gain tutorial www.rock-grotto.co.uk/xgain.htm I'll rectify the mistakes as soon as I've got time. Mike. |
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