Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin 
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Apr 6, 2005 16:26:07 GMT
 I have just replaced the "far from audiophile" JAMICON caps in my X-CAN V3 with the PANASONIC FC types. The sonic benefits are stunning, even before they have properly run-in. Detail retreival is amazing: layers of music I'd never heard before are revealed, beautifully clear and rounded. Voices and instruments have a clarity and realism that the old JAMICON X-CAN V3 could only dream off, while the bass is wonderfully deep and well defined. But above all, there is a brilliant sense of presence: you can hear not only the vocals and instruments, but the room in which they were played and recorded. This is the amp the X-CAN V3 should have been. The FC cap values I used: six 2200uF/50v; 4 1000uF/ 50v;4 100uF/63v; 2 10uF/63v. Unfortunately, I couldn't replace the 4 220uF/6.3v caps because they are BI-POLAR types. I'm trying to source a ELNA alternative (ELNA PART NO: RBD-6V221M or RBD-10V221M). If anybody has any idea where I can lay my hands on 4 of these little beauties I would be eternally grateful? If not, I've heard NITAI are good caps and they produce a BIPOLAR type with the right values. Also be careful when ordering the 2200 uF above 50v as you may have difficulty placing them on this rather cramped part of the curcuit board. These caps are superb and I'd highly recommend them to any X-CAN v3 owners out there. Have pics of the PANASONIC FCs in place. Will post them at a later date. Fergus
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Post by derekrumble on Apr 11, 2005 8:49:06 GMT
Thanks for this report Fergus.. I will need to follow your example soon. Maybe I will wait until the guarantee runs out! Looking forward to some pics.
Derek
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Apr 12, 2005 16:45:36 GMT
Derek, You're right to wait for your guarantee to run out. But the morning after, order the PANASONIC FCs and unpack your soldering iron. Truly, you won't believe the difference. And all for about twenty quid. Fantastic! Fergus
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on May 6, 2005 14:54:29 GMT
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Jun 22, 2005 17:03:47 GMT
Operation X-CAN capacitor change is now complete. On the output stage, I've replaced the old JAMICONS with NITAI 220uF/35v bi-polars. Sonically, the NITAIs give the X-CAN more "body": by this I mean the soundstage appears bigger, fuller and richer. And as you'd probably expect, resolution of fine detail is also noticeably better. But again be careful. I made the mistake of ordering the 35v NITAIs. This means that, physically, the NITAIs were considerably larger than the old JAMICONS. In the end, they were so large that the front fascia would not close properly because the small curcuit board holding the pot was hitting off the new capacitors. To remedy this I resorted to laying the front two NITAIs completely flat. The NITAIs are excellent capacitors and are unquestionably better than the "bog-standard" JAMICONS, which is a good thing for all X-CAN owners since there appears to be no real alternatives out there (the ELNAs, for me, were impossible to source). Fergus
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Post by creeky on Jun 25, 2005 15:40:40 GMT
Nice work there good to hear it brings improvments. I am currently plucking up the courage to do this same mod although might try building a PSU for the xcan first.  Recently changed the tubes to Brimar 6922 which was quite a nice improvment so looking to do a few more mods to improve the sound even more |
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Jun 28, 2005 19:18:46 GMT
Creeky, Building your own X-CAN PSU sounds like a seriously ambitious plan. I would suggest trying the capacitor upgrade first. Even for some one like me, who barely knows one end of a soldering iron from another, it's a pretty straightfoward procedure. In any case, I think the sonic benefits are more noticeable. I own an X-PSU V3, and it undoubtedly improves the sound of the X-CAN, but the improvements provided by a capacitor upgrade are greater. When the guarantee on my X-PSU runs out, I'll open it up, check it out and post details of its design and layout. Fergus
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 14, 2005 18:00:21 GMT
Nice one Fergus  Just a few things you may also want to try to get the absolute best out of your X-can V3: 1: Replace the 2 x 10uF electrolytic polar input caps with 2 x 10uF "non polar" types. There is no DC across the 10uF caps and it really amazes me that MF have employed polar caps in this position. The V3 sounds a LOT better if you substitute these with non-polars.... the Nitai ones are fine or you can use the Samwha non polar caps from Maplin. You could also bypass them with polypropylene caps, this improves the sound also.  2: Remove the 4 x 220uF non polar output caps:  Fit 2 x 35V 1000uF Non Polar caps (lay them on their side) into two of the spare capacitor bays:  3: Fit two x polypropylene caps (any value 100nF upwards) into the two spare cap bays. This effectively bypasses the 2 x 1000uF non polars (connects to them in parallel) and makes the V3 sound much better. The 220uF caps that MF fitted were paralleled making 440uF per channel...... 1000uF per channel is much better and improves the bass response a lot:  4: Instead of just replacing like for like fit 2200uF FC's in place of the Jamicon 2200uF "and" the 1000uF's. The additional capacitance further improves the clarity and dynamics of the amp:  2200uF fitted in place of the 2200uF & 1000uF stock caps 5: This is purely optional but I found it helped improve the SLAM of the V3...... bypass all of the electrolytics on the bottom of the PCB with film caps. The pictures that follow show only one film cap per electrolytic but, for best results, a minimum of 2 should be used per electrolytic.... ideally something like a 220nF polyprop, a 1uF polyester and a 100pF silvered Mica in parallel with each electrolytic.... as I say this is optional and you really do need ears like a bat to hear the improvement... the improvement is subtle and not immediately noticeable but, after a while, you realise the amp has got more slam and is able to deliver crescendos with ease.... a bit more seperation between instruments too:   6: On a purely mechanical note.... fit heatsinks to all the transistors and use some Mica insulating sheets between the sinks and transistors.... doesn't improve sound quality but it helps dump the heat from the trannies:  Happy listening |
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Nov 16, 2005 19:08:32 GMT
Hi PinkFloyd, Great work! Your innovations will be invaluable to all X-Can V3 owners. However, I have a number of questions: 1. What POLYPROPYLENE capacitors would you recommend? MAPLINS are selling an "audiophile quality" capacitor, which, they claim, is used in the "finest quality valve amplifiers" (LCR - VM87U). Likewise, RAPID are supplying POLYPROPYLINE caps from the likes of BC COMPONENTS and WIMA. 2. When bypassing the 10uF stock capacitors, what value and make of POLYPROPYLENE capacitor did you use? 3. Do you replace all 4 1000uF for 2200uF? 4. What make are the 2 1000uF non-polars? Would NITAIs do the job, or are there more "audiophile" brands out there? 5. Where did you buy your heatsinks and what make are they? I noticed when I opened my X-CAN that there was scorching around the transistors, especially on the left hand side. Thanks again, Fergus
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 19, 2005 21:44:31 GMT
Hi PinkFloyd, Hi Fergus. Great work! Your innovations will be invaluable to all X-Can V3 owners. Cheers 1. What POLYPROPYLENE capacitors would you recommend? MAPLINS are selling an "audiophile quality" capacitor, which, they claim, is used in the "finest quality valve amplifiers" (LCR - VM87U). Likewise, RAPID are supplying POLYPROPYLINE caps from the likes of BC COMPONENTS and WIMA. The Wima ones from Rapid are great for bypassing..... use something like a 10nF polypropylene (part number 10-1460) and a 220nF polyester (part number 10-2220) per electrolytic.... so basically you solder a polypropylene "and" a polyester in parallel with each of the electrolytics... you can even use three or four bypass caps per electrolytic...... to be honest it's probably best just bypassing the 10uF input caps and the 220uF output caps (or bypass the 1000uF if you have changed from 220uF) I didn't hear a lot of difference from the bypassed 2200uF caps but you will notice an improvement if you bypass the input and output caps with film types. 2. When bypassing the 10uF stock capacitors, what value and make of POLYPROPYLENE capacitor did you use? 10nF polypropylene and 220nF polyester.. see above. 3. Do you replace all 4 1000uF for 2200uF? Yes. In the X-can amp capacitance is your friend... swap out those 4 x 1000uF for 4 x 2200uF and see what you think 4. What make are the 2 1000uF non-polars? Would NITAIs do the job, or are there more "audiophile" brands out there? Nitai are ok yes. Rapid now do another type of non polar called "suntan" I haven't tried them yet. There are NP audiophile caps like black gates, again I haven't tried them and knowing black gate they'll be huge and very costly.... try the Nitai 35V 1000uF (RS also do them) bypassed with a polyprop and a polyester...... sounds better than the stock 440uF (2 x 220uF) per channel IMO. 5. Where did you buy your heatsinks and what make are they? I noticed when I opened my X-CAN that there was scorching around the transistors, especially on the left hand side. I got those heatsinks at Rapid (part number 36-0150) you may also want to order some Silicone rubber insulated mounting kits.... these fit onto the heatsinks (part number 38-0245) and help dissipate heat. IMO heatsinks are required on the transistors and that will stop them from "scorching" the board. Another thing you may want to do is to remove the three resistors next to the transistors and replace them with "raised" resistors as shown:  I asked MF about these three resistors and the reason they now fit them "raised" is to protect the PCB from damage should there be a fault... you can see from this picture what they do to the board if they are not raised and "if" there is a fault:  Picture showing damaged PCB (not my amp BTW!) The values of the resistors are R213 =10ohm, R214 = 32ohm and R215 = 10ohm More on the resistors here www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=143449Have fun Mike. |
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Nov 21, 2005 15:23:40 GMT
PinkFloyd, Thanks for the help. Much appreciated. I'll get to work as soon a possible. However, I might hold off until the guarantee on my X-DAC V3 runs out; considering MF's history of employing cheap and generic components, there's bound to be some tinkering needed. Also, I can order all the necessary parts for both the X-CAN and the X-DAC at one time. Have you, or anyone one out there, had any experience of the X-DAC V3? Thanks again, Fergus
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 5, 2005 18:27:08 GMT
Have you, or anyone one out there, had any experience of the X-DAC V3? No experience of the X-Dac V3 sorry ;/w |
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Post by hbkwa on Dec 8, 2005 13:35:39 GMT
Hi PinkFloyd,
What NP cap do you use to replace the 63V/10uF polars in the x-can V3? Can you use the 50V/10uF NP's? Is a bigger capacity better?
Thanks
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 10, 2005 18:47:19 GMT
Hi PinkFloyd, What NP cap do you use to replace the 63V/10uF polars in the x-can V3? Can you use the 50V/10uF NP's? Is a bigger capacity better? Thanks Hi, I've removed mine completely and jumpered over the pads with zero ohm links. If you must have input caps (ie: if there is DC at your source outputs) then use non polar caps instead of the polar types that come with the V3. You can get Nitai non polars at rswww.com or Samwha non polars at www.maplin.co.uk anything greater than 50V rating will be fine but keep the capacitance @ 10uF. As I say..... unless you've got DC at your CD players output you can dispense with the input caps altogether.... MF fit the input caps as a belt and braces "catchall" and they are only there on the offchance that maybe 3% of the sources are old fashioned and have DC on the output...... most modern CD players will have no DC at the outputs. |
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Post by colinh on Feb 14, 2006 21:22:16 GMT
Just got my self an X-CAN V3. after 5 hrs I un plugged it and
took it apart after checking out this site. Valves on order
capacitors by weekend .As a new member I have to
that it's the best forum i have found so far. All the posts have been a big help all the best Colin
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 14, 2006 21:36:48 GMT
Just got my self an X-CAN V3. after 5 hrs I un plugged it and took it apart after checking out this site. Valves on order capacitors by weekend .As a new member I have to that it's the best forum i have found so far. All the posts have been a big help all the best Colin Hi Colin, welcome aboard. There are better forums like head-fi.org but this is a good little place for info on the X-Can with a few knowledgable members who will be happy to share tips with you. What valves are you going for and what type of caps will you be fitting? All the best. Mike. |
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Stormy
100+
Advocates putting smokers in a "Sin Bin"
Needs to learn to keep his big mouth shut.
Posts: 153
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Post by Stormy on Feb 15, 2006 12:24:05 GMT
I was told by my manager at work that we have a load of passive components in storage behind the labs from the old R&D days when surface-mount didn't exist, and that I could help myself to as much as I like because the whole lot will be binned soon. I had a look and chanced across some Elna RSH 100uF 63V low-ESR caps and some 10 and 33 ohm 1/2W 2% resistors, so I've fitted the caps into the filter section to replace the dreaded Jamicons after my mistake with the Panasonic FMs (until I can tack some of the correct value/rating onto another RS order - I'm not paying £5.90 for five 100uF caps with postage, even if they were in stock!). The 63V Elna's are actually the same pitch as the holes in the PCB, so they look neater than 50V caps because they sit flush. I used the resistors to replace the 1/4W ones between the output transistors and caps, as they were the ones that got scorched the worst on MysticalDodo's board. I know I've gone from 1% tolerance to 2%, but the measured values of the resistors I chose were pretty close to the originals, and I'd rather have higher power handling to avoid them cooking themselves and blackening things around them if something goes wrong. I've kept them raised off the PCB anyway, because they will still get hot if there is a problem. I was going to do the ones in the power smoothing section too, but I couldn't find any of the correct values at work. Might actually have to BUY some (gasp!).
When I plugged the amp back in and did my usual "hiss" test with the volume up full I was initially worried I'd broken something, as it was practically silent. I took the volume back down to safe listening levels then played a track through it, and was pleasantly surprised to find it was still working and sounding great to boot.
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Fergus
100+
Done a David Ike and is now known as Godkin
Posts: 197
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Post by Fergus on Feb 17, 2006 21:46:26 GMT
Hi everyone, I was browsing the PANASONIC site tonight and found that, as well as producing the glorious FCs and FMs, PANASONIC make what they describe as "Audio Type A Series X-PRO 105s (part no: ECAxxCTxxxx and ECAxxDTxxxx), designed to have "large capacitance for power supplies." Has anyone any experience of these caps? And, more importantly, can they be purchased in the UK? Fergus
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Post by colinh on Feb 17, 2006 22:06:53 GMT
Hi Colin, welcome aboard.
There are better forums like head-fi.org but this is a good little place for info on the X-Can with a few knowledgable members who will be happy to share tips with you.
What valves are you going for and what type of caps will you be fitting?
All the best.
Mike.
hi Mike as I am sure you may have guessed I have
ordered the Russian Valves you have praised and all the other parts in fact. After reading how bad the Xv3 is
I thought it was worth a listen to get an idea for myself
so as to judge how much better the mods will have made.
To be honest I have had an urge to improve my set up
but the headphone amp looks like a good place to start
not to overwhelming for a first project
regards Colin
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Stormy
100+
Advocates putting smokers in a "Sin Bin"
Needs to learn to keep his big mouth shut.
Posts: 153
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Post by Stormy on Mar 4, 2006 9:58:12 GMT
RS finally got the 10uF and 470uF 105ºC non-polar caps that I've had on order since early February back in stock, and have delivered them. I shall hopefully be fitting them today after the news that Rapid have run out of TO-220 silicon kits essentially delayed my order for the remaining heatsink parts and my PSU project. I might go the whole hog and buy some polycarbonate bolts and washers. They only come in packs of 100, so others will be welcome to the rest at some point I suppose.
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I have just replaced the "far from audiophile" JAMICON caps in my X-CAN V3 with the PANASONIC FC types.
Recently changed the tubes to Brimar 6922 which was quite a nice improvment so looking to do a few more mods to improve the sound even more 
