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Post by mortenhoe on Nov 25, 2015 19:51:50 GMT
I bought an X-Can mainly because of Mike's(Pink Floyd) modding on this board. I got it for 80£ used. It still has the original JAN tubes. It would have been A LOT easier just to buy the cap mod from Mike, but 2 things. I wanted to do it by my self, and I am also modding a Lepai 2020+ so I could order stuff for both from Mouser.  Before I took it apart.  Same old girl most of you know and love.  Started by replacing the C102 and C202 caps with links, since they are not necessary with my DAC as line in.  I like soldering with a butane soldering iron. FAST hot, and no wire. I use Superwick to remove tin.  Remove the 4x 470uF caps, and replaced them with the very PRETTY Nichicon Muse 1000uF 25V caps.  I replaced the 1000uF Jamicons with 4x Panasonic FM series 35V 1200uF  And I replaced the 6x 2200uF Jamicons with the same value of Panasonic FC series 35V.  The 4 x small caps between the valve bases are now Panasonic FC series 100uF 50V I'm doing the ultra fast diode mod tomorrow or maybe next week. I'm a bit jammed up at the moment. The Can survived being powered up, and from cold it sounded narrow and boxed. I let it play for half an hour and listen again, and now it sounds very nice. The biggest difference right now, without proper burn in, is more mid-bass on my very mid-bass lacking T70 headphones. I am very satisfied. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 25, 2015 22:29:40 GMT
Nice work Morten  Enjoy the music, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 25, 2015 22:37:38 GMT
If that is the case RUN (don't walk) and secure a pair of NOS tubes because (trust me) the tubes in your V3 will be WELL out of spec by now....... they will have drifted so badly out of spec that they will be SERIOUSLY hindering the sound quality (and I mean seriously hindering it)..... they will be WELL and truly knackered.
Mike.
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Post by mortenhoe on Nov 25, 2015 22:51:56 GMT
If that is the case RUN (don't walk) and secure a pair of NOS tubes because (trust me) the tubes in your V3 will be WELL out of spec by now....... they will have drifted so badly out of spec that they will be SERIOUSLY hindering the sound quality (and I mean seriously hindering it)..... they will be WELL and truly knackered. Mike. Yeah I know. I just did the diode mod though. Made the sound crystal .... I can't even fathom why MF didn't choose better diodes. The plan is, I'm buying 6H23N-EB tubes and heatsinks from you, when I got the money :-) |
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Post by mortenhoe on Nov 25, 2015 22:53:43 GMT
 That's a lot. |
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Post by mortenhoe on Nov 27, 2015 21:34:25 GMT
I actually found the diode mod to do the biggest difference. I didn't expect capacitors would have so much burn in time? It still keeps sounding better with more burn in.
1. What does the polyester caps at the power plug do, and would it do anything changing them?
2. What about R7 R8 R9 and R10, why would it make a difference changing them? Expect maybe to one single of a summed value. I expect they are in series?
3. Are the yellow ones in front of the output caps film caps? or?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 27, 2015 22:05:58 GMT
I actually found the diode mod to do the biggest difference. I didn't expect capacitors would have so much burn in time? It still keeps sounding better with more burn in. 1. What does the polyester caps at the power plug do, and would it do anything changing them? 2. What about R7 R8 R9 and R10, why would it make a difference changing them? Expect maybe to one single of a summed value. I expect they are in series? 3. Are the yellow ones in front of the output caps film caps? or? What are you? A policeman? The next I know you'll have my hands tied and denying me a smoke....... |
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Post by mortenhoe on Nov 27, 2015 23:27:45 GMT
What are you? A policeman? The next I know you'll have my hands tied and denying me a smoke....... Haha, sorry  I actually found some info you wrote about the resistor mod. I'll be doing that. Can't imagine why they would use 4 in a series instead of 1. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Nov 28, 2015 10:27:44 GMT
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Post by mortenhoe on Dec 2, 2015 21:17:57 GMT
This is correct, yeah?  |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 2, 2015 21:40:27 GMT
Correct but it must be BEFORE the fuse..... show it with the fuse in circuit.
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 2, 2015 21:43:06 GMT
Where is the fuse in that diagram?
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Post by mortenhoe on Dec 2, 2015 22:18:49 GMT
The picture of the terminal block has a fuse in the black tray. We use these terminal blocks in front of transformers in alarm systems, so I got one from work.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 23:03:26 GMT
The picture of the terminal block has a fuse in the black tray. We use these terminal blocks in front of transformers in alarm systems, so I got one from work. If you are using a metal case with an IEC 3 pin mains socket, you could also connect E from the IEC socket to the metalwork for greater protection in the event of a high voltage flash over in the transformer .I am assuming here that the mounting bolt of the toroidal transformer will be bolted to the chassis, or the transformer will be mounted on a separate metal plate above the chassis for improved air circulation around the transformer. This will also prevent a large bolt head from protruding underneath the case.
Alex
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Post by mortenhoe on Dec 3, 2015 7:26:43 GMT
I will ofcourse be grounding the PSU. I just didn't include it in my picture :-)
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Post by mortenhoe on Dec 4, 2015 22:08:17 GMT
Since there was a long silence I searched the forum and found you saying the MOV should be in parallel after the fuse, or what? What difference does that make, if the fuse burn? Wiki says a metal oxide varistor is like a diode. Aren't diodes normally in series? I'm a BIT confused. The MOV and X2 cap are fine but make sure you fit the MOV "after" the fuse, the connection of the one you linked to is incorrect.... it should be connected after the fuse and not before it. NICE looking transformer and I love the enclosure and cable, that will look fantastic when it's complete. Mike. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2015 22:16:57 GMT
Since there was a long silence I searched the forum and found you saying the MOV should be in parallel after the fuse, or what? What difference does that make, if the fuse burn? Wiki says a metal oxide varistor is like a diode. Aren't diodes normally in series? I'm a BIT confused. The MOV and X2 cap are fine but make sure you fit the MOV "after" the fuse, the connection of the one you linked to is incorrect.... it should be connected after the fuse and not before it. NICE looking transformer and I love the enclosure and cable, that will look fantastic when it's complete. Mike. An MOV is more like a Zener diode that conducts heavily after a certain voltage threshold is reached . Until that point, it is more like a capacitor of several hundred picoFarads. This will also likely attenuate some RF/EMI, although not being actually conducting at the time. Yes, it should be in parallel, not connected in series. A suitably rated MOV can also be directly connected across a power outlet as done with some Power Boards, in which case you rely on the fuse in the AC mains box if there is no circuit breaker in the powerboard or as with much U.K. gear, in the actual mains plug.
Alex
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Post by mortenhoe on Dec 4, 2015 22:29:00 GMT
Thanks for the explanation. It makes sense now. I will put the cap in parallel before the fuse, the mov in parallel after the fuse and connect the casing to the ground pin. All the plugs in my house are grounded. Since I'm an electrician, that's the part I know best :-)
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Post by mortenhoe on Jan 2, 2016 23:30:12 GMT
Finally got time to do the PSU. Thanks to Mike and Sandyk for the explanations. And especially just a big thanks to Mike, for the MOV and cap you mailed me, free of charge! Except for the box and the toroid, all the other stuff was free. Reused the DIN cable from the old wall-wart. This build is below 20£  You can see the red cap that I soldered yellow wires on and connected in parallel before the fuse.  The blue one is the MOV in parallel AFTER the fuse.  Just before completion. I cut off the DIN cable from the original wallwart and reused it. Measured red to be center pin.  Done.  Done.  The white cable reliefs(Don't know the word?) are from lamp sockets. Just so the cable can't be pulled on. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2016 0:25:10 GMT
Hi Mortenhoe
Before you leave this as completed, please unsolder the connections to the front panel mains switch, and slip some insulation over their leads , (perhaps suitably dimensioned pieces of heat shrink tubing) then re-terminate the connections with the tubing slipped over the exposed terminals on completion to ensure that you don't expose yourself to an electric shock at a later date.
Kind Regards Alex
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Post by mortenhoe on Jan 4, 2016 23:10:08 GMT
Hi Sandy.
Thanks. I will do that. I also have in mind to shorten all the wires and secure the mov and cap better. The case itself is grounded, so I should be protected from electrocution :-)
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2016 0:01:51 GMT
Hi Sandy. Thanks. I will do that. I also have in mind to shorten all the wires and secure the mov and cap better. The case itself is grounded, so I should be protected from electrocution :-)
The way it was, with the grounded case, if you were touching the case AND with your little pinkies accidentally touched those exposed AC terminals on the switch, you would have been in even more danger of electrocution !
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