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Post by weimeranerman on Feb 23, 2015 12:56:30 GMT
Hi All,
I have just registered as my appetite has been whetted!
I’ve been reading some of the postings on the forum and looking at the X10D upgrade kit. I have an X10D that I picked up second hand about six years ago and have been seduced into wanting to try the upgrade kit. I note that the current valves in my X10D are Phillips 6DJ8’s, but being a novice on this topic I am not sure if these are stock or were changed by previous owner. I also note some browning at R1. See photos attached.
Also, I note that the upgrade kit offers the JAN/Phillips 6922 valves, but there is much talk of the Russian NOS 6H3N-EB’s on the forum. Would it be worth considering these if they are still available?
My soldering skills are somewhat limited and rusty - being limited to basic repairs on an old Vox AC30 and couple of other guitar amps back in the 70’s and lots of jack plugs and some minor connection repairs on PA speaker in the 80’s and was I wondering how easy the upgrade is for someone of my limited skill set? I have done lots of DIY electrics over the years and have basic multimeter, soldering iron, wire cutter and strippers, but not much else.
Best wishes
Chris
PS. I couldn't upload photos due to the Forum reaching its upload limits! I presume this is a general issue as my file was only 100KB.
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jc
Fully Modded
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Post by jc on Feb 23, 2015 17:02:06 GMT
Chris PS. I couldn't upload photos due to the Forum reaching its upload limits! I presume this is a general issue as my file was only 100KB. Hi, You'll need to use an online photo host like "photobucket", "Flickr" etc. Upload your photos there and use the codes provided to insert into your post. |
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Post by weimeranerman on Feb 23, 2015 17:41:47 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 23, 2015 21:17:05 GMT
Hi All, I have just registered as my appetite has been whetted! I’ve been reading some of the postings on the forum and looking at the X10D upgrade kit. I have an X10D that I picked up second hand about six years ago and have been seduced into wanting to try the upgrade kit. I note that the current valves in my X10D are Phillips 6DJ8’s, but being a novice on this topic I am not sure if these are stock or were changed by previous owner. I also note some browning at R1. See photos attached. Also, I note that the upgrade kit offers the JAN/Phillips 6922 valves, but there is much talk of the Russian NOS 6H3N-EB’s on the forum. Would it be worth considering these if they are still available? My soldering skills are somewhat limited and rusty - being limited to basic repairs on an old Vox AC30 and couple of other guitar amps back in the 70’s and lots of jack plugs and some minor connection repairs on PA speaker in the 80’s and was I wondering how easy the upgrade is for someone of my limited skill set? I have done lots of DIY electrics over the years and have basic multimeter, soldering iron, wire cutter and strippers, but not much else. Best wishes Chris PS. I couldn't upload photos due to the Forum reaching its upload limits! I presume this is a general issue as my file was only 100KB. Hi W Man, Welcome to the forum  The resistor (R1) gets very hot and the browning on the PCB is more indicative of a poor PCB "material" than it is a hot resistor...... the browning is 100% to be expected, especially with an X-10D that has been left powered up 24/7/365. The resistor is 100% OK, the cheap PCB that MF used has discoloured due to heat, it's as simple as that. The X-10D kit is possibly the simplest to fit and anybody with a basic knowledge of soldering / desoldering will have it up and running in an hour. No need for multimeters or hammers.... it's pretty much painting by numbers. Mike. |
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Post by weimeranerman on Feb 23, 2015 22:19:11 GMT
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the response and clarification about the discolouring on the PCB. Can you comment on the question concerning the valves? I am keen to 'have a g'!
Chris
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Post by weimeranerman on Feb 23, 2015 22:20:17 GMT
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the response and clarification about the discolouring on the PCB. Can you comment on the question concerning the valves? I am keen to 'have a go'!
Chris
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 24, 2015 20:58:53 GMT
Hi Mike, Thanks for the response and clarification about the discolouring on the PCB. Can you comment on the question concerning the valves? I am keen to 'have a go'! Chris Hi Chris, My current favourites are the 6H23N, I've got a batch in at the moment that are just "sublime" in every respect, they trounce the 6N23P-EB in all areas and that includes sound quality. They are all from the same batch / same date codes and have the OTK markings, I just wish I could get hold of more of them, they are (by far) the best batch of Russians I have ever laid my hands on and they sound sublime in the X-10D. Mike. |
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Post by weimeranerman on Feb 24, 2015 22:39:43 GMT
Hi Mike, Thanks for the response and clarification about the discolouring on the PCB. Can you comment on the question concerning the valves? I am keen to 'have a go'! Chris Hi Chris, My current favourites are the 6H23N, I've got a batch in at the moment that are just "sublime" in every respect, they trounce the 6N23P-EB in all areas and that includes sound quality. They are all from the same batch / same date codes and have the OTK markings, I just wish I could get hold of more of them, they are (by far) the best batch of Russians I have ever laid my hands on and they sound sublime in the X-10D. Mike. Hi Mike, I will email you re an order for the upgrade and to get a price on the valves. Thanks for the prompt reply. Chris |
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Post by weimeranerman on Mar 13, 2015 8:22:01 GMT
Well, I finally got round to upgrading the X10D last weekend. The tip about the 'solder sucker' was a good one Mike. All went extremely well and I now have had it up and running for five days without fault! The board looks surprisingly neat, although I am sure there is room for improvement (with practice). The only problem I had is the old LED is stuck into the faceplate very solid (looks like superglue) - not sure how to get it out - and the wire has snapped off at the bulb. So definitely need to replace it.
I have the X10D inline on an old Technics amp for testing as my other MF amps are being worked on by JSAudio at the moment. For testing purposes I have it running via the tape out/in so that I can do easy switching for comparison. First thing I noticed was the breathy rasping on the sax on Art Blakey's 'Moaning'. I initially thought that the speakers were buzzing. Gradually over the week the difference has become more obvious with a less compressed/more open sound. Greater clarity on cymbals and higher frequency (which is good for me as my hearing is not 100%) and a more natural bass sound.
I have played quite a lot of stuff to see the difference, but the one that was most noticeable was Peg by Steely Dan. I haven't played it for a long time but I hear things in that track that I never remembered!
So, all in all a very good experience.
Thanks Rock Grotto!
PS. Mike please let me know when you have the LED's back in stock!
Chris
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 13, 2015 10:43:47 GMT
Chris,
The best way to get the LED out is to slam the face plate down onto a wooden / plastic chopping board..... works every time and you will not damage the fascia..... just whack it down (the front side) and the LED will pop out.
Mike.
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bullpup
Been here a while! 
How much is that doggy in the window?
Posts: 517
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Post by bullpup on Mar 13, 2015 11:19:00 GMT
Whack it Slam it - electronics engineering or blacksmith's forge?
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 13, 2015 11:22:49 GMT
Whack it Slam it - electronics engineering or blacksmith's forge? It's the most effective method Bullpup and will not cause any damage to the fascia, 100% guaranteed...... going in with a drill bit will totally arse the thing up  |
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Post by weimeranerman on Mar 13, 2015 17:06:13 GMT
Chris, The best way to get the LED out is to slam the face plate down onto a wooden / plastic chopping board..... works every time and you will not damage the fascia..... just whack it down (the front side) and the LED will pop out. Mike. Ha! I will try this later. I am good at whacking things! Thanks again. Chris |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Mar 13, 2015 21:29:33 GMT
Chris, The best way to get the LED out is to slam the face plate down onto a wooden / plastic chopping board..... works every time and you will not damage the fascia..... just whack it down (the front side) and the LED will pop out. Mike. Ha! I will try this later. I am good at whacking things! Thanks again. Chris Seriously Chris, It's the proper way to do it..... you start farting about trying to drill it out or poke it out and you're likely to cock a very simple job up. Whack the fascia down onto a wooden chopping board and, voila!, the LED will pop out...... you are whacking the front of the fascia onto the board by the way. I guarantee you 100% that this will work and assure you that there won't be so much as a scratch on the front panel..... I've done hundreds of them so like to think I know what I'm talking about Mike. |
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Post by weimeranerman on Mar 28, 2015 8:44:26 GMT
Hi Mike,
Sorry for slow response, but I have been away awhile. I believe you. Just need a replacement! I'll PM you.
Chris
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