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Post by syous on Dec 27, 2006 13:51:55 GMT
So I've been looking for a decent amp to pair up with my DT770/80s that are due to arrive any day now, and my research turned up these two amps. I've read many reviews and experiences on head-fi with regards to the Heed and Gilmore Lite, but so far there hasn't been any real direct comparisons between the two.
It would appear that the Heed has gotten alot more positive reviews than when the Gilmore Lite first came out, and because of this I'm currently leaning toward the Heed. The Lite costs about $300 and the Heed about $360, but people were talking about the Heed as if it were the second coming of Jesus.
I plan to use the setup primarily with my computer, yet my onboard sound doesn't have coax or optical out...so I'd need a DAC with usb support as well. Here's the thing, the DT770/80s are coming pretty soon but if I order the Heed it'll take at least another month for it to arrive...so if I go that route I'd want a DAC with at least some capability to drive the DT770/80s, not to their full potential of course, but enough so that I don't have to go through the pain of hooking up the headphones to my computer's line out. In this respect, I'm totally lost as there's so many options in the usb DAC world.
Alright, my final question is if I'm using a DAC as a temporary headphone amp, how important is it for the DAC to have a volume control feature? I have heard that it is more destructive to audio quality if one reduces the volume from the computer than if you had it on full blast (or ASIO/Kernel streaming w/foobar) and controlled volume from the DAC or amp.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Dec 27, 2006 15:17:31 GMT
So I've been looking for a decent amp to pair up with my DT770/80s that are due to arrive any day now, and my research turned up these two amps. I've read many reviews and experiences on Goat-Fi with regards to the Heed and Gilmore Lite, but so far there hasn't been any real direct comparisons between the two. I've never heard the Gilmore but, according to Kevin it's the best amp in the world. I'd like to hear the Gilmore and will probably get around to it one day but as it stands cannot comment on it. Indeed, quite embarrasing that thread on Head-Fi is...... one of the reasons I stopped posting quite as much as I used to about amps. It's not the second coming of jesus but, for the money, the best I've heard. Remember though, my ears are different to yours so always use your own before making the final decision. If you can audition one then definitely do it. Sorry but I know nothing at all about computers as sources, I don't even have beeps coming out of the internal speaker on mine.... not an area of musical reproduction I have ever got into and have no plans to start. I'm sure there will be others here who can comment on this. Again, another area that I don't get into.
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Dec 27, 2006 15:21:06 GMT
My opinion is some folks just have too much time on their hands so are always overthinking instead of DOING but because they post these "this is the BEST way" crap and once posted have no choice but to defend the post are always scaring the unimitiated with fairy tales. What is the ideal ? Throw $50K at the system then convince yourself it sounds good.The rest of us humans that pretty much live in the real world it is whatever works and whatever sounds good playing actual music that counts. I would say use what you have and enjoy it for what it is until or if you can afford an upgrade but remember too that not all "upgrades" are an improvement,just different while costing more. Quick 'N dirty would be to grab a couple of 10K audio taper pots,2 sets of RCA jacks and a box to put them in then use THAT as you volume control or better yet for more control,one that will allow for two sources and a speaker & headphone amp feed (or whatever) something like this headwize.com/projects/showfile.php?file=cmoy7_prj.htmA thing I SWEAR came from out of one of my posts in the headwize forums many years ago on the way to control a portable or computer based system and is in fact a rudimentry version of my now all out assualt on system control to answer the question of just where the windows software volume control begins to harm SQ there is a very simple verification test you can try : 1-Crank up the windows VOL to full 2-Crank down the external volume pots to total "off" 3-Set the volume control to what you consider a normal listening level and listen to actual music and become familiar with the way it sounds.Screw test tones and fancy screen images telling you what is up it is music and sonics that matter here-not pleasing the "look at this graph,it TELLS you all you need to know" crew 4-Once you become familiar with how your system set-up sounds under ideal consitions,if there is such a thing,back off on the windows volume control a bit while upping the volume level externally on your brand new "box" to compensate with the end result of the OVERALL VOLUME remaining unchanged.This level matching is the only way you can answer the quesion asked with any validity.Listen again. 5-Keep doing this "internal VOL reduction/External VOL increase" until there is an audible change in the SQ.THAT is the point where your system is beginning to lose resolution so stop there. 6-up the windows volume a bit,make a mental note to never go below that point then use the external box for all points onward and you will not only be fine but will have saved a bundle of loot in the process At least that is my opinion and I'm sticking with it until someone beats me over the head with a large stick forcing me to agree with them out of pure fear of getting lumped up **
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rickcr42
Fully Modded
Rest in peace my good friend.
Posts: 4,514
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Post by rickcr42 on Dec 27, 2006 15:27:27 GMT
Quick point-
your DAC will need to have a fairly beefy output stage,one wth no large value series resistors or too low in value caps on the output for it to work for driving cans.
If it satisfies the "beefy" part but not the R/C part it is still possibly OK since these are changes easily made-reduced resistor size for proper current delivery to a headphone load impedance,increased coupling capacitor size to rescue the bass lost by having a cap meantr to "see" a high impedance load at the next stage input
if our headphones are above 150 ohms then you are home free with the above mods (if needed) since no proper DAC I know of does not have enough voltage drive for headphone duties,just load drive for low Z cans and an output topology meant to drive a line level input so usually not suited to direct headphone driving duties without changes
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Post by syous on Dec 28, 2006 3:57:51 GMT
Thanks for everyone's input so far. It'll be next to impossible to audition either of the amps where I live unfortunately, so whatever I choose will be a leap of faith in the end. I'll go with Heed for now, and when it comes in about a month I'll give everyone my impressions.
As for the DAC, I'm not really much of a DIY guy so I'll probably end up with a Great March or some such...man this is getting expensive!
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darynalexander
100+
will probably give you some sort of disease.
Posts: 179
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Post by darynalexander on Dec 28, 2006 5:44:15 GMT
Hell, I'd say get the Heed because of the resale value. They are hard to come by with supplies being so short, so if you don't like it it'd be a lot easier than say a Gilmore Lite
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Post by syous on Dec 28, 2006 5:48:49 GMT
That's one thing I hadn't considered actually, I'll grab the Heed first and if I end up not liking it it should be a fairly easy sale. Thanks for the reminder.
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