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Post by daws0n on Nov 1, 2012 15:14:09 GMT
I've completed the LME49720HA upgrade on my ASUS Xonar E1 DAC. As a finishing touch, I bought some heatsinks on eBay to help keep them cool. I've applied a little thermal grease onto the inner circle, but even when applying moderate force I cannot get them to push down onto the opamps. Since the opamps were pre-soldered onto DIP-8 adapters, I am hesitant to use too much force in-case I damage a connection somewhere. I'm happy to leave them as-is as there are no heat issues per se, I just thought it was good practice to stick them on. Before I call it a day, any advice guys? Thanks Dawson P.S Heatsinks were bought here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320994001480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649It it my understanding that the TO99 package is the same circumference (give or take a few 0.0xx mm) so I figured they should fit just the same. Have I got this wrong?!
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Post by daws0n on Nov 1, 2012 15:47:01 GMT
Hmm, not joy so far... I took one of the op-amps out of the DAC and using a flat surface managed to *just* about get one of the heatsinks on. It looks pretty easy to squash the op-amp against the DIP-8 adapter in the process, so I think it's best to install these while the TO-99s are fresh/uncut. Also, after installation is became pretty obvious these large surface fin type heat sinks are hardly practical... In this case the fins stop you from getting down underneath the adaptor to pull it back out the DAC socket. Might have more luck with something like this? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-TO-99-for-OPA627-OPA627SM-/120757525065Given the tight layout and DIP-8 adaptors: www.pzplay.com/daws/xonar/dac.jpg
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2012 17:12:25 GMT
Try warming the heatsinks up first in boiling water. Remove them with tweezers, any residual water will soon evaporate, then quickly slide them over the op-amp..
This should allow the bore size to expand a couple of thou, enough i suspect, to allow them to slide over the op-amp with ease.
Heat from a hair dryer will probably achieve the same, which of course is the only option for removal.
Mick.
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Post by daws0n on Nov 1, 2012 17:48:13 GMT
Smart idea there Mick - thanks!
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 1, 2012 19:13:23 GMT
Err, in the first place, why cut the leads so short on the can op amps until the heat sinks can be a difficulty to put in when in place in the Dip 8?
On the heatsink, there is a slit opening. Pry slightly the heatsinks with a screw driver and they will fit in nicely. Release the pry and the heatsinks will clamp nicely onto the can op amps. Prying should be quite easy as it's soft material AL. No need to expand the heatsinks with heat to fit.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2012 21:16:55 GMT
As Chong says.
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Post by daws0n on Nov 1, 2012 21:28:29 GMT
Hey XTRProf,
I bought the opamps off eBay. They came pre-soldered/assembled on DIP-8 adaptors.
I tried prying the slit with some pin nose pliers, but it's night on impossible to maintain it with any force while installing the opamp. I ended up using my thumb (it's quite wide so a screw driver won't fill the gap). It made a difference and helped to get the heatsink on one of the opamps.
Are there any other tools you recommend trying to stretch them out?
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Post by daws0n on Nov 1, 2012 21:33:03 GMT
Actually you guys are right! Using the pole of the screw driver rather than the flat tip I can get a considerable stretch on the heatsinks. Awkward but doable It still leaves the question however of removing the opamps from the sockets should I ever need too... Adding these large fin heatsinks means I can no longer get a grip underneath the DIP-8 adapters to prize them out the usual way.
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
Posts: 5,689
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 2, 2012 23:09:50 GMT
Actually you guys are right! Using the pole of the screw driver rather than the flat tip I can get a considerable stretch on the heatsinks. Awkward but doable Err, use the screwdriver "wedge" style instead of the tips to pry. That will be very easy. It still leaves the question however of removing the opamps from the sockets should I ever need too... Adding these large fin heatsinks means I can no longer get a grip underneath the DIP-8 adapters to prize them out the usual way. Same "wedge" style will be effectively good for that. But how you orientate the heatsinks wrt the slits when you put them in will determine how easily they can be removed when needed given the blocking by the E-Caps around the can op amps. Anyway, DIY is all about the difficulty before the success and jubilant!
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