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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 19:29:42 GMT
Shaun, Getting the chemicals out again Franken-crickets! I never did have a go at etching, I go super-bodge like the cricket below
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 19:48:43 GMT
Crikey! Are you "terraforming" on another planet You'll be good friends with Endesa (or Iberdrola) "Hmmmm, maybe the dark side not is this, much money from this young sith draw we will" I had no idea it was going to be so big, the board is 12,8x4,2cm but once you add the heatsink, the big cap (5cm tall) plus the spacers I'm not sure if it'll fit inside a Panda sytle case. As to power consumtion, maybe a remote controlled bypass in the company's meter I would activate when playing music? ;D 300mA at 6V (unregulated) = 2W, right?
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Post by gommer on Nov 9, 2012 20:21:20 GMT
Now i have to ask: what's a cricket? Not the insect, please.
@javier, i missed you talking about the hifiduino reclocking mods before.
When i saw his efforts i was convinced it would work, but i also knew beforehand the layout and decoupling could be better. Also, his clock signal wrapped with GND is all about return path, not shielding. And i would think that a rise and fall time limited device would even perform better.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 20:35:47 GMT
Hi Marc Some of us are using a dual version in our SC DACs. Regards Alex
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XTRProf
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 9, 2012 22:14:26 GMT
Hi Marc, I've been looking for a computer based thermocouple. Any recommendations? Btw, guys, don't worry too much about the SMT components moving like a football. In all SMT AI section, when done correctly, there is a tiny glue blob applied to ensure the SMT components don't move during AI and solder paste curing. Heh, heh, heh ............., I was a former PCBA guy. @shaun, What's OB2WA?
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Post by gommer on Nov 9, 2012 22:21:54 GMT
Ah, so it's a 35mA 5.1V low noise voltage supply.
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XTRProf
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 9, 2012 22:22:47 GMT
The cap is a 10,000uF monster! Wow, your Amanero will disco, man! Bass freak you! Same for my X-Dac V3. I had beaten you to it and also top it at 2 X 12,000uf.
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XTRProf
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 9, 2012 22:33:58 GMT
"Hmmmm, maybe the dark side not is this, much money from this young sith draw we will" What Sith? We are already talking of the next SW trilogy, man! And more trilogy every few years ............
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Post by gommer on Nov 9, 2012 22:35:58 GMT
What's that? All I know is thermocouple wire. Weld (spark) an end together, put other end in thermocouple thermometer and read.
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XTRProf
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Post by XTRProf on Nov 9, 2012 22:40:57 GMT
What's that? All I know is thermocouple wire. Weld (spark) an end together, put other end in thermocouple thermometer and read. Sorry, not clear there. I mean a computer (software monitoring) based thermocouple system.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 22:58:08 GMT
Hi Javier Yes I agree that re-clocker looks like an interesting proposition but as marc says the implementation so far looks ok for a try out. but a little less than optimal for the long term. Maybe at some point someone will come up with something with a much better layout and grounding scheme. The Salas is a little large done that way But I mount my ones directly on the heat sink. So board on standoffs tapped into the sink and then the IRF9610/MJE15031 soldered under the board and again tapped into the heat sink on isolation pads. Then the heat sink bolted to the case with plenty of ventilation holes cut. Works a treat and saves space. Any way I’m not expecting so much heat and certainly not as much as the 650ma one for the WAVEIO toaster. Chris "Hmmmm, maybe the dark side not is this, much money from this young sith draw we will" The Salas are really not as expensive as they look $10 for the mini kit and $6.30 for the board. Caps and rectifiers to find but still a fair price. ‘’Getting the chemicals out again Franken-crickets!’’ Yup I’m up for another try at etching and may as well make a few rather than just one as it’s not much more trouble. But really Chris those P.P ones look pretty good to me and have me thinking again. Good for a quickie maybe Take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 23:44:26 GMT
Shaun,
crossed wires, I was messing with Javier about his impending electricity bill with that big mother of a psu!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 0:02:59 GMT
Hahaaaa, the main 3.3v feed is now in place.
I've had a slightly different experience to you Shaun. Maybe we listen biased in different ways?
When I popped on the XO supplies all was good and I didn't notice the drop in bass presence that you heard. When the main 3v3 went on, slam! The bass really came in, more in line with your experience. It actually took me a little while to readjust, the sound is really filled out.
Enjoying it now...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 0:35:48 GMT
@shaun, does your Amanero BiB get hot to the touch? Id never thought dissipating 2/3W would get such a heatsink even slightly warm.
All this talk is making me really eager to try the Amanero with the BiB but I' don't think that'll happen before next weekend, dang!. I still have to send the board for surgery and reg scope checking with real load for possible oscillations, etc.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 0:54:14 GMT
Hi Chris good work Chris I'm glad you've had the chance to try the 3V3 mod ''I've had a slightly different experience to you Shaun'' glad to hear it and why it's always IMHO to my ears. because we all have slightly different priorities and listen differently. i also do most of my day time listening through speakers. to my mind that is a different listening experience compared to HPs in terms of sound stage width height and depth recognition to name but a few. not better or worse just different. i listen to a bit of electronica and techno/dance/dub stuff so bass is important to me and tend to i notice when it's not quite right. with the 3V3 reg taken out yessssssss the bottom end was much better. speed presence and slam all present and correct. i also nearly fell of my seat when i first heard the difference (a BIG shock). i found that the mods improved things from top to bottom quite a bit with things sounding fuller and more textured.(more flesh on the bones) more real if you like thing is I've had the WAVEIO for a while now so I've been a little spoiled in the bass department to say the least. back here the sound is much sweeter and has that relaxed but detailed sound that i really like. not analogue but closer to it. IMHO with the mods the Almanero sounds like a totally different board and much much better than the original Vbus powered one. so a few not to hard mods and it's all gravy and now the board is opened up for you to try whatever you like PSU wise. if you'd like to try a Salas PM me. take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 1:00:11 GMT
As there will be quite a few people reading this thread, it could be helpful to see a few block diagrams. Alex
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 1:13:05 GMT
@shaun, does your Amanero BiB get hot to the touch? Id never thought dissipating 2/3W would get such a heatsink even slightly warm. All this talk is making me really eager to try the Amanero with the BiB but I' don't think that'll happen before next weekend, dang!. I still have to send the board for surgery and reg scope checking with real load for possible oscillations, etc. Hi Javier i have 650ma Salas for the WAVEIO on a big sink like yours and yes it gets a little warm. not roasting just warm I'm not expecting 250 or 300ma to get any more than luke warm to the touch TBH. but good ventilation is always best so i get as much air around things as i can. just drill some holes in the case where you are going to put the Salas. we are not talking thermo nuclear meltdown hear just luke warm. I'll have my one built and running tomorrow evening so I'll give you the lowdown then. ventilation is not going to be a problem but fitting it into a Panda case might be tough height and width wise but you could always leave the lid off or have a listen to it with the Salas in and decide if you think that the SQ merits a bigger case. maybe one in wood for now would be a good temporary measure to keep those prying little fingers out (I have a mother in law like that also ;D)or you have pets. so no worries I'll give you a full report tomorrow. take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 1:34:50 GMT
As there will be quite a few people reading this thread, it could be helpful to see a few block diagrams. Alex Hi Alex good point i think that Javier posted a picture of the board outlining what needed to come out 3V3 reg wise and how to wire in the new PSU. i could rework that a little to include the clock PSU inputs if you think that would be of use. i think that Chris may be a bit further down the line than me with Your nice cricket in place. or it could be an idea to just show people what to take out and how to connect up and leave the PSU's choice down to personal preference. i really hope that anyone reading and wanting to have a go would join the discussion and be warmly welcomed. all welcome here take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 1:50:04 GMT
Hi Shaun I am losing track of some of the various changes, so I imagine that others may be too. I wouldn't be surprised if a few from the original thread in DIYAudio aren't also looking in from time to time. Kind Regards Alex
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Post by gommer on Nov 10, 2012 11:10:25 GMT
Does anyone know the exact part number of both XO's? Can't seem to find them. I presume from the case markings they are from Mercury electronics ( www.mecxtal.com/ ) but can't find them.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 18:04:31 GMT
Shaun, Yes, ASYNC at the moment. I'll try SYNC again when I have the last 3.3v sorted out. Cheers, Chris Hi Chris thanks for the update it would be interesting to have your thoughts on the sound with SYNC now that the clocks had a dedicated PSU. I've not tried it myself but it may sort some of the traits that you reported when you tried it before. interesting to find out. take care I have switched a few of times between SYNC & ASYNC now that I have all the psus that I'm going to do sorted out. To my ears and in my system, SYNC is now a VERY clear winner. In complex or moody music the subtleties are quite superior in clarity, air and delivery. Pop some rock on (Karnivool right now ) and the weight, speed and attack are so much improved that going back to ASYNC sounds dull and sloppy in comparison. After several hours I have not yet found an aspect I prefer on ASYNC. In a previous post I said that I was looking for the best of both worlds from SYNC & ASYNC as my set up was then. I now have exactly that. FAB I only have twiddling left to do, shortening leads, routing etc, etc. On that subject, are we (me, Shaun, Will thus far) ready for the USB cable purchase. Let me know which one etc and I'll check to see if prices are still as was.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 18:39:11 GMT
Today at 3:00, sandyk wrote: As there will be quite a few people reading this thread, it could be helpful to see a few block diagrams. Alex
Any good? (prev post deleted, found error on diagram)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 19:12:33 GMT
Very interesting Chris, thanks for sharing. I wonder how much true isolation, buffering and reclocking could improve things in sync mode.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 19:28:43 GMT
Today at 3:00, sandyk wrote: As there will be quite a few people reading this thread, it could be helpful to see a few block diagrams. Alex Any good? (prev post deleted, found error on diagram) If I understand the block diagram correctly it shows 3 seperate 3.3v JLH RE'd supplies - could these all originate from the same supply, fed through 1 JLH and then split to the 3 inputs? Sorry if it's a numptie question Dave.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 20:15:28 GMT
Not numptie at all Dave. Don't forget all that was originally done by the single USB DC supply. There is no electrical reason why you cannot do what you said.
Shaun and I both found that a single supply for both the XOs was good, as they switch for different jobs anyway. The separate supply for the main 3v3 in is, however, sonically beneficial. I have also used a "cricket" which has a limited current ability, one is good for the two switching XOs. It, or a second one, is not man enough to use on the rest of the board, therefore the direct JLH supply.
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