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Post by gommer on Nov 10, 2012 21:56:37 GMT
Hi Chris,
Be careful with that cricket of yours. While browsing the MEC website, looking for TCXO satasheets, i found that they can use as much as 33mA. Also, the disable function only seems to disable the output, while the XO keeps running (contradictory to what i thought first). Now this was looking at what datasheet i could find, not the exact same type (it's probably a custom ordered product).
So, depending on the opamp used, it might be underpowered. You could measure the supply current easily though, also for the disabled one.
Marc
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 22:10:39 GMT
Hi Marc All good advice. We covered this quite some time back, and IIRC, it was the expensive AD797 that had better current output capabilities without overheating. Originally I suggested to temporarily fit a series 1ohm resistor at the power input to the Cricket and work out the current draw of the Oscillator used.Some even used piggybacked opamps. Regards Alex
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Post by gommer on Nov 10, 2012 22:16:03 GMT
Cheers Alex,
Why not use a reasonably fast discrete output transistor. That wouldn't deteriorate the purpose (isolation and low noise) of the cricket, or would it?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 22:25:31 GMT
Cheers Alex, Why not use a reasonably fast discrete output transistor. That wouldn't deteriorate the purpose (isolation and low noise) of the cricket, or would it? Hi Marc The "Cricket"was a simpler version of the PFM "Flea" with it's double sided PCB. We were able to simplify it because the "Cricket"was already being used via a +15V JLH.Using a transistor may cause output level related problems that needed to be compensated for ? The beauty of the "Cricket is that what you get out from the Zener diode is exactly what you get at the output of the "Cricket" but vastly less noisy and much more stable. Kind Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 23:42:15 GMT
Marc,
I have stacked two chips on my "cricket" so hopefully I'll be OK. There is certainly no sign of warmth from the chips themselves which makes me assume they are functioning within limits.
Cheers
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2012 10:01:38 GMT
I found out about the max4238 opamp ( www.maximintegrated.com/datasheet/index.mvp/id/3407) in a DIYA thread and thought it was quite interesting, the brand is not well known but the part has geat specs (low noise, almost no offset, huge PSRR and CMRR,...) for non audio signal stuff like DC servo plus it is quite cheap, maybe it could also be good for the Cricket? it only comes in SOIC or SOT23 though.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2012 10:39:34 GMT
Hi Chris thanks for the update it would be interesting to have your thoughts on the sound with SYNC now that the clocks had a dedicated PSU. I've not tried it myself but it may sort some of the traits that you reported when you tried it before. interesting to find out. take care I have switched a few of times between SYNC & ASYNC now that I have all the psus that I'm going to do sorted out. To my ears and in my system, SYNC is now a VERY clear winner. In complex or moody music the subtleties are quite superior in clarity, air and delivery. Pop some rock on (Karnivool right now ) and the weight, speed and attack are so much improved that going back to ASYNC sounds dull and sloppy in comparison. After several hours I have not yet found an aspect I prefer on ASYNC. In a previous post I said that I was looking for the best of both worlds from SYNC & ASYNC as my set up was then. I now have exactly that. FAB I only have twiddling left to do, shortening leads, routing etc, etc. On that subject, are we (me, Shaun, Will thus far) ready for the USB cable purchase. Let me know which one etc and I'll check to see if prices are still as was. Hi Chris Interesting I was wondering if having a better PSU on the clocks would make any difference to the SQ. Sounds like that is a yes then. I remember JK advising me to try Wills PK in Sync mode and TBH I nodded but did not really know what he was talking about. Well things move on and I’ve learned the language so no it makes more sense. Yes I’m still up for doing that Mini GB on the Furutech USB cable. 1M for me with the end that will does not want. How shall we go about this? I’d say that it would be fair for people having ends to pay a little more for the pleasure. Pass me your paypal details my good man and I’ll sort you out. So yesterday was a pretty busy day with the menial chores to do shopping etc. But My wife went to the Mother in Laws for the afternoon :-/which gave me time to build a Salas and filch one from Wills PK. Interesting I’m just off to make a steak and kidney pudding but I’ll be back to post some thoughts on that once the pudding is at hand. Take care
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Post by gommer on Nov 11, 2012 11:22:52 GMT
Or something like the circuit below, combining best of both worlds of a precision input with high power (in this case 10A) output. This circuit with explanation can be found in following TI application note: www.ti.com/lit/an/sboa092a/sboa092a.pdf
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Post by pagan on Nov 11, 2012 11:31:05 GMT
[quote author=shaun board=talk thread=8441 post=123022 time=1352630374 I was wondering if having a better PSU on the clocks would make any difference to the SQ. Sounds like that is a yes then. I remember JK advising me to try Wills PK in Sync mode and TBH I nodded but did not really know what he was talking about. Well things move on and I’ve learned the language so no it makes more sense. But My wife went to the Mother in Laws for the afternoon :-/which gave me time to build a Salas and filch one from Wills PK. Interesting I’m just off to make a steak and kidney pudding but I’ll be back to post some thoughts on that once the pudding is at hand. Take care [/quote] Thought on what??? The steak and kidney pudding or the salas reg ;D But then Then thoughts on the salas reg could be influenced by the pudding.... or visa-versa
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2012 11:49:52 GMT
Hi Alan errr both actually ;D give a man time. puddings are not a thing to rush Ahhhhhhhhhhhh a pudding of distinction and one of my favorite Sunday lunches. Takes not very long to make but needs constant checking should the water boil dry so plenty of time for music. OK Salas I started with a 140ma shunt target 50ma to be generous on the clocks. THE Salas will work quite happily with 70ma + whatever the device needs so should be fine. So JLH on the 3V3 main board It did make a difference in terms of clarity and scale and gave a crystal clear pin sharp image wall to wall and floor to ceiling scale which was nice. So I turned my attention to the main board and added a 270ma Salas. Mm interesting A little more fine detail and more air and space to the sound and a little more attack and slam down below. I had a listen to Sandy Denny –Bruton Town –Best of BBC live recordings which is just her and a guitar. It’s superb guitar playing and with the above mods I could really hear all of the subtleties. Even hear the strings vibrating as they were struck and also the fingers hitting the guitar body occasionally which I’d previously thought was a flaw in the recording . The guitarist really attacks some parts of the piece and TBH the Amanero failed to convey that in a convincing way before. Not so now The down side (yup there’s always one). Well IMHO it sounds a little more HIFI and a little less music than with the JLH which seemed to convey more about the soul of the recording. One not better than the other just different. I may go back to JLH on the main board for another listen. IMHO it's going to be worth experimentation with the type of PSU used for a particular job. the Amanero does seem to be pretty responsive to PSU's. IMHO i think that the Amanero i have now is a totally different beast to the one that i plugged it for the first time powered vy Vbus. but that's just subjective i guess I think I’m going to try SYNC to Wills PK next to see what that does. Take care
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Post by Telstar on Nov 11, 2012 16:27:00 GMT
I wouldn't be surprised if a few from the original thread in DIYAudio aren't also looking in from time to time. Kind Regards Alex ehe
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Post by Telstar on Nov 11, 2012 16:29:00 GMT
Does anyone know the exact part number of both XO's? Can't seem to find them. I presume from the case markings they are from Mercury electronics ( www.mecxtal.com/ ) but can't find them. I remember Domenico said they were Crystek.
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Post by Telstar on Nov 11, 2012 16:35:42 GMT
Today at 3:00, sandyk wrote: As there will be quite a few people reading this thread, it could be helpful to see a few block diagrams. Alex Any good? (prev post deleted, found error on diagram) Alternatively to U2, L1 can be removed. Actually I got one of my two boards with L1 L2 and L3 already unsoldered and I plan to power it exactly as shown in the above diagram (same psu for both clocks since i almost never use the 48k fs).
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Post by gommer on Nov 11, 2012 16:59:14 GMT
Does anyone know the exact part number of both XO's? Can't seem to find them. I presume from the case markings they are from Mercury electronics ( www.mecxtal.com/ ) but can't find them. I remember Domenico said they were Crystek. Thanks, but that's hard to believe. Case markings on mine are: MEC C10D2CD Oh, and welcome to the forum
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2012 21:30:58 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2012 22:52:45 GMT
I wouldn't be surprised if a few from the original thread in DIYAudio aren't also looking in from time to time. Kind Regards Alex ehe Hi telstar and welcome. mmmm the name seems familiar from DIYA so nice to see you here. ''Actually I got one of my two boards with L1 L2 and L3 already unsoldered and I plan to power it exactly as shown in the above diagram (same psu for both clocks since i almost never use the 48k fs).'' good move on your part we have been having some fun here with PSU for the board and clocks. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the Amanero. what do you have in mind PSU wise? Hi Marc ''Thanks, but that's hard to believe. Case markings on mine are: MEC C10D2CD'' yup that's what i have also ''I presume from the case markings they are from Mercury electronics'' a quick part number web search took me to the same manufacturers web site as the one that you posted. take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 7:36:25 GMT
Alternatively to U2, L1 can be removed. Actually I got one of my two boards with L1 L2 and L3 already unsoldered and I plan to power it exactly as shown in the above diagram (same psu for both clocks since i almost never use the 48k fs). Yes, exactly that was discussed earlier in the thread. I had visions of using the freed pads for the PSU I/p but went the easy route instead Sent from my HTC One S using proboards
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Post by pagan on Nov 12, 2012 8:08:16 GMT
"Hi Marc ''Thanks, but that's hard to believe. Case markings on mine are: MEC C10D2CD'' yup that's what i have also" same as mine too.
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Post by gommer on Nov 12, 2012 11:08:47 GMT
Hi Alan,
Completely off topic, but I wonder, how do you make such well lit macro pics?
Marc
PS. back on topic: hifiduino's have 'MEC C10D1D3' markings
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Post by pagan on Nov 12, 2012 11:21:24 GMT
Hi Alan, Completely off topic, but I wonder, how do you make such well lit macro pics? Marc PS. back on topic: hifiduino's have 'MEC C10D1D3' markings Marc I was stunned at that pic too. It was done outside in the sunlight with an iphone4 Highly technical ;D snipped out of this.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 11:47:16 GMT
Hi All just a quick update on where I've got to. so the ''come out Amanero we've got you surrounded'' build Look Ma no DAC Two Salas and a Will's PSU/JLH for the teleporter the long wireworld USB cable is folded rather than looped and will be replaced pretty soon with a shorter cable. Front view i wanted the box to match my Buffalo rear view so very much still a work in progress with other PSU to try take care
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Post by Telstar on Nov 12, 2012 12:17:10 GMT
Hi telstar and welcome. mmmm the name seems familiar from DIYA so nice to see you here. Hello, thanks.''Actually I got one of my two boards with L1 L2 and L3 already unsoldered and I plan to power it exactly as shown in the above diagram (same psu for both clocks since i almost never use the 48k fs).'' good move on your part Esp. since my soldering skills are noob-level.we have been having some fun here with PSU for the board and clocks. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the Amanero. what do you have in mind PSU wise? My only thought so far is that is recognized on the two PCs i plugged in, but the i2s outputs are not connected anywhere And my favourite software player seems to work fine at 32/352.8k upsampling (which is what i wanted). For this reason I cannot do the flip-flop mod, but I want to change some caps since I have some oscons in my stash. I have been following this thread closely. I should have a jlh ripple eater pcb or two somewhere, but i'm not planning on using it. Since my time is scarce as my DIY skill, i'm going with two prebuilt SR3M (Paul Hynes) that are proved and tested on digital equipment. I'll make a dedicated case with two transformers, not sure which ones, i'm debating between the excellent potted Talemas toroids I use on the headamp and the r-cores sold by Audiophonics (I have r-cores in the dac). I wanted a SOTA digital interface to my dac, so that I can get back to tweaking the amplifier output stage (see signature), going to try the classic EF and even more output devices. Then I have a JLH to build... I'm at an impasse with that tweaking now, with the difference between Rohm and Toshiba (of very similar specs) to be little to my ears and even song-depending, so I desperately needed a better digital input. I became aware of the Amanero board just when i was ready to install my waveIO (which now i think will go for sale, after a quick comparison). On a sidenote, do you plan to change the clocks? I dont think they are that critical in my dac because the signal goes to a DSP anyway, which is needed to convert i2s to left-aligned for the PCM1704s. Avoiding phase noise to spread to the signal is more important.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 13:05:58 GMT
Hi telstar ''I have been following this thread closely. I should have a jlh ripple eater pcb or two somewhere, but i'm not planning on using it. Since my time is scarce as my DIY skill, i'm going with two prebuilt SR3M (Paul Hynes) that are proved and tested on digital equipment. I'll make a dedicated case with two transformers, not sure which ones, i'm debating between the excellent potted Talemas toroids I use on the headamp and the r-cores sold by Audiophonics (I have r-cores in the dac).'' Sounds like a plan to me those PH regs should be interesting to try so I'll look forward to your views on those once you have things running. Ahh Cavalli yes I'm more familiar his tube based designs but not so much on SS. looks like an interesting Amp. how does it sound? i have no plans as yet to change the clocks and am more keen to let things settle down a little before the next round of surgery. more info in your DSP set up would make for interesting reading as i think that others are thinking on this route also. take care
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 14:07:43 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2012 16:34:59 GMT
Congrats Shaun, that is some a*se kicking build, Hi Javier thanks for your kind comments on my errrr well less than pretty build. but TBH i don't really think that pretty builds always make for a prettier sound and sometimes even make things worse SQ wise. otherwise i might make a little more effort in that regard. (all of those wires neatly tied together doing their best to become capacitors) sounding good looking good with the lid on result take care
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