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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2013 23:02:18 GMT
Hi Alex
Re the discussion on the HiFiMan thread, can you tell me the watts output into the 50 ohms of the HE6?
They need a lot of power but I feel the AK should be up to the job.
Thanks
Sydf
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2013 23:53:13 GMT
Hi Alex Re the discussion on the HiFiMan thread, can you tell me the watts output into the 50 ohms of the HE6? They need a lot of power but I feel the AK should be up to the job. Thanks Sydf Hi Syd I haven't had a coffee yet, so I will let Marc or Shaun work that out for you. It will happily drive even lower impedance headphones at increased power if you replace the series output resistors with something like 8.2 or 10 ohm 1W resistors The volume achieved won't give near maximum SPL from those headphones, but who listens to headphones anywhere near there maximum capabilities if they don't want permanent hearing damage ? If you want to use it with various types of headphones , it may be a good idea to put links where the series output resistors are presently, and use a rotary switch as some ( Chris ?) have done elsewhere to insert different series output resistors in order to suit various types of headphones. The 15W Class A on the other hand, was originally designed used to drive both headphones and speakers. Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 0:06:36 GMT
Thanks Alex
As far as I remember the HE6 needs 5W, so maybe it won't do. The 15W is certainly an idea, I think I just happen to have a set of boards sitting partially completed!
If Shaun, Marc or Chris can chip in I'd appreciate it. No matter what, the present AK Class A HA is going nowhere, its superb with the Fostex. I'm presently playing the Muddy Waters DVD-A and its amazing.
Best regards
Syd
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 0:36:20 GMT
Hi Syd, I'm afraid my memory is very hazy on this one but; I originally made a progressive resistance switch for my Jaycar HP amp. I had the lowest required R on the board, then the switch either passed this straight through or added more resistance at each "click" to give a different total resistance each time. I can't remember the final values I settled on for either the Jaycar or the A Class but I am very happy with the results on both amps. Below is the only picy I could find of what I did, it's an early attempt using a basic quality switch and a bit of a messy job.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 0:39:38 GMT
Syd I read a review where even a MF V CAN 2 was able to drive them fairly well, but came unstuck at higher volumes due to distortion. If you have a chance to try them without buying them, I would try them with the Class A HA using 8.2 or 10 ohm series resistors in the output . Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 0:57:51 GMT
Hi Syd,
Muddy Watters.......................what's it you say..................a blast from the past.
I've a 1964 Chess records mono LP of Muddy Watters, pretty well played in the early years.
He played support to Clapton late seventies at the Apollo Glasgow, that was a great night quite a double whammy for us.
Regards,
Alan
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 12:00:58 GMT
Hi Syd, Muddy Watters.......................what's it you say..................a blast from the past. I've a 1964 Chess records mono LP of Muddy Watters, pretty well played in the early years. He played support to Clapton late seventies at the Apollo Glasgow, that was a great night quite a double whammy for us. Regards, Alan Hi Alan I've had just this one disc of his for quite a few years, bought it to test my DVD-A/SACD/CD player when I first got it. Of course immediately after that all the high-res discs started to disappear and then PC music arrived But last night it was its turn for a play and that set me looking at what was available of his and it seems there's some good CDs out there, hopefully with reasonable quality. I also just recently bought a couple of Clapton CDs which I'm getting to like a bit more, gradually weaning myself out of the early sixties That concert's a nice memory to have! Syd
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 12:05:47 GMT
Syd I read a review where even a MF V CAN 2 was able to drive them fairly well, but came unstuck at higher volumes due to distortion. If you have a chance to try them without buying them, I would try them with the Class A HA using 8.2 or 10 ohm series resistors in the output . Regards Alex Hi Alex I think it is best I try before I buy, they seem to need special treatment power wise, so I'll do as you suggest. Stupid question coming up - when you say series resistors do you mean remove the resistor that is already there or add these to it? Syd
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 12:11:03 GMT
Hi Syd, I'm afraid my memory is very hazy on this one but; I originally made a progressive resistance switch for my Jaycar HP amp. ..... Hi Chris I remember that post from the time, I'll search back and have a read, thanks. I even bought some switches at one point then chickened out, I'll have a go though as my AK Jaycar HA still gets some use and that would be a good one to experiment on. Syd
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 21:01:04 GMT
Syd I read a review where even a MF V CAN 2 was able to drive them fairly well, but came unstuck at higher volumes due to distortion. If you have a chance to try them without buying them, I would try them with the Class A HA using 8.2 or 10 ohm series resistors in the output . Regards Alex Hi Alex I think it is best I try before I buy, they seem to need special treatment power wise, so I'll do as you suggest. Stupid question coming up - when you say series resistors do you mean remove the resistor that is already there or add these to it? Syd 'Hi Syd If you are careful, you can tack the resistors in parallel across the existing at the top of the PCB. Otherwise put them across the existing 120 ohm, or whatever you are using, under the PCB. Kind Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 23:30:26 GMT
Gotcha Alex, thanks. Took me a minute (or two) to remember the effect of doing that.
All set for the big arrival then.
Syd
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