jonclancy
Been here a while!
Mr. Ripple Eater
Amateur EAGLEist
Posts: 1,131
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Post by jonclancy on Feb 28, 2013 12:45:39 GMT
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pingu
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Reallising what has been taken on with the GB
Posts: 332
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Post by pingu on Mar 1, 2013 13:21:07 GMT
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Post by bluerob on Mar 7, 2013 1:01:40 GMT
Hey chaps I will be building a Jaycar Headphone amp kit (yeah yeah I know...better late than sorry ) or SCHA as called. Trying to solve my many doubts around it I´m in need of a PCB for the JLH mentioned in the headphone amp thread. Do you guys have any idea where can I get one of this PCB´s without going into the hassle of etching it myself? Hope I´m in the right thread and this ripple eater is the same gadget :/ Any comments appreciated. Rob.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2013 1:54:13 GMT
Hey chaps I will be building a Jaycar Headphone amp kit (yeah yeah I know...better late than sorry ) or SCHA as called. Trying to solve my many doubts around it I´m in need of a PCB for the JLH mentioned in the headphone amp thread. Do you guys have any idea where can I get one of this PCB´s without going into the hassle of etching it myself? Hope I´m in the right thread and this ripple eater is the same gadget :/ Any comments appreciated. Rob. Hi Rob See this thread. rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/8851/page/5/ripple-eater-boards-limited-availablilty#scrollTo=127916Basically, the JLH PSU Add-on is a kind of shunt regulator, but is not voltage specific.It has a capacitance multiplier section, and a Ripple Detector section. It draws a standby current of typically 16mA, depending on the input voltage. The Ripple Detector section causes this standby current to be modulated in opposition to detected noise and ripple, thereby cancelling it out. No, I don't have a copy of Robert's .pdf. It was aimed more at technically advanced users, and was the only one of it's kind built. Regards Alex
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Post by bluerob on Mar 7, 2013 5:35:44 GMT
Thanks for the info and link Alex!
Rob.
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FritzS
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Sound of Blue Danube
Sound of Blue Danube
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Post by FritzS on Mar 25, 2013 18:46:44 GMT
I have some 4.700uF low ESR caps (Suntan) and want to use CL too, should I use only one of this (C4) and a smaller cap (which value?) on the other place?
For C3 (10 uF) are a electrolytic enough or could I use a WIMA film cap too?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2013 20:17:08 GMT
I have some 4.700uF low ESR caps (Suntan) and want to use CL too, should I use only one of this (C4) and a smaller cap (which value?) on the other place? For C3 (10 uF) are a electrolytic enough or could I use a WIMA film cap too? Use a 2,200uF 10V low ESR plus a 2,200uF 16V normal electro in parallel on both polarities of the JLH PCB. The original CL design doesn't like working into the 4,700uFs, and may cause hunting, and possible overheating problems. The 10uF should be a 10uF 35V electrolytic. Alex
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Post by mkusan on Nov 26, 2013 13:59:47 GMT
Hello everyone, I am finally building ripple eaters, only positive version 5V for DAC. I have all parts at hand except WIMA MKS 2,2uF. Would it be a bad idea to replace them with tantalums.
Regards Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 20:35:06 GMT
Hello everyone, I am finally building ripple eaters, only positive version 5V for DAC. I have all parts at hand except WIMA MKS 2,2uF. Would it be a bad idea to replace them with tantalums. Regards Marko Marko I try to avoid tantalums in general these days. I am not sure about how close they are to the marked value either. You don't need to use the Wima 2.2uF caps, as any brand with a value of either 1.5uF or 2.2uF will work fine, provided that they have the correct lead spacing to fit the PCB. As the JLH is working at quite a low voltage, it is best to replace the 10K resistor with a J506 Current Regulating Diode. If you are unable to obtain a J506 CRD (usually available on ebay ) then try reducing the value of the 10K resistor to 4.7K. A J506 gives better results though at +5V and +3.3V . Regards Alex
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Post by mkusan on Nov 26, 2013 21:52:50 GMT
Hello Alex, thank you for a quick and informative reply, expected from a true ripple eater fan WIMA has a small pitch, so what I have available wont fit the PCB. I will take your advice regarding J506 and might as well order WIMAs from ebay. The only downside of DIY is shipping costs and waiting Thanks again Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 22:05:01 GMT
Yes. Frustrating, isn't it ? Kind Regards Alex P.S. At a pinch you can even use 1uF. Although they don't meet the specs of the original article, they appear to give good results and most normal stockists should have them in the correct lead pitch. The part numbers quoted in the Bill of Materials were simply given to make it easier for U.K. members mainly. The Wima caps will perform no differently to other brands at that location.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 22:18:24 GMT
If you're sourcing the J506s from ebay as well, this seller has proved to be reliable for many items by myself and other members. Plus this one tooAs for the 2.2uf caps I've used standard issue films there.
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Post by mkusan on Nov 26, 2013 23:06:23 GMT
Thank you both, I used electronics-salon before, good tip.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2013 23:30:39 GMT
Thank you both, I used electronics-salon before, good tip. BTW, Don't use 2 x low ESR electros in parallel . Use a 4,700uF 10V low ESR type in parallel with a normal 4,700uF 16V type. The higher voltage types have considerably higher ripple ratings. Use the different types in parallel , even for digital areas. Bypass the current limiter section and feed in +5V. Alex
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Post by mkusan on Nov 27, 2013 10:09:30 GMT
I ordered WIMAs and J506 from ebay, soldering will start probably around xmas time As for the caps I planned to use Vishay caps 2200uF 16V with ESR of 0.13 according to the datasheet. Current limiter will be bypassed and fed with Martin Clark circuit based on LM317 with two green leds. Regards Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2013 11:29:22 GMT
I ordered WIMAs and J506 from ebay, soldering will start probably around xmas time As for the caps I planned to use Vishay caps 2200uF 16V with ESR of 0.13 according to the datasheet. Current limiter will be bypassed and fed with Martin Clark circuit based on LM317 with two green leds. Regards Marko Hi Msrko When using the CL section it is best to stick to 2 x 2,200uF in parallel, but when the CL section is bypassed you can then use up to 2 x 4,700uF in parallel for a simulated capacitance of around 1 FARAD as against about .5 FARAD for 2 x 2,200uF. Regards Alex
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Post by mkusan on Nov 27, 2013 11:51:01 GMT
Hello Alex, I think 0.5F would suffice , optional C6 0,1uF needed in my case or not? Thanks Marko BTW. I am not receiving notifications when someone replies, any thoughts
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2013 12:37:34 GMT
Hello Alex, I think 0.5F would suffice , optional C6 0,1uF needed in my case or not? Thanks Marko BTW. I am not receiving notifications when someone replies, any thoughts Where both of the parallel electros aren't specifically stated by the manufacturer to be low ESR types, you can fit the optional 100nF. Click on your own name for PROFILE-then Notifications-Edit Profile-Notifications, where you can turn on that facility, Alex
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Post by mkusan on Nov 30, 2013 19:34:27 GMT
I just realised that my board ver.GE20120421 does not have C6, although there are unmarked pads between C4A and C4B that could be used for that purpose if 0.1uF is positioned on solder side of the PCB.
Regards Marko
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Post by mkusan on Dec 28, 2013 19:46:57 GMT
Hello and Merry Christmas everybody, just a quick update on my progress, I finally received all the parts and managed to solder 2 positive ripple eaters. For testing I used 15V as specified in the Build Manual V3.0, schematics is slightly different so if anybody could check results I got I would appreciate it TP7=measured 1.73V vs specified 1.74V (junction of R8 and J506) TP8=measured 2.3V vs specified 2.2V (input of R8) Regards Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2013 20:58:35 GMT
Marko Although you can use the J506 with higher supply rails, it's best ( and much cheaper) to use the original 10Kohm resistor at 12V and higher. The J506 C.R.D. helps to keep the reference current higher at +5V and +3.3V supply rails. The correct manual for the PCB shown in your photo is at users.tpg.com.au/gerskine/greg/default.htmClick on Power Supplies. The BC639 end of R8 should be a little under 1.8V.WRT 0 volts. This is the combined series voltage readings of the base to emitter voltages of Q3, Q4 and Q5 The Q1 and Q2 ends of R13 and R4 ( 2.7Kohm) should be reasonably close to each other WRT 0 volts.. The actual voltage readings there will depend on the supply rails used. How close they are to each other will depend on other factors, such as how well the 2 transistors are matched to each other. Regards Alex
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Post by mkusan on Dec 28, 2013 21:34:10 GMT
Marko Although you can use the J506 with higher supply rails, it's best ( and much cheaper) to use the original 10Kohm resistor at 12V and higher. The J506 C.R.D. helps to keep the reference current higher at +5V and +3.3V supply rails. The correct manual for the PCB shown in your photo is at users.tpg.com.au/gerskine/greg/default.htmClick on Power Supplies. The BC639 end of R8 should be a little under 1.8V.WRT 0 volts. This is the combined series voltage readings of the base to emitter voltages of Q3, Q4 and Q5 The Q1 and Q2 ends of R13 and R4 ( 2.7Kohm) should be reasonably close to each other WRT 0 volts.. The actual voltage readings there will depend on the supply rails used. How close they are to each other will depend on other factors, such as how well the 2 transistors are matched to each other. Regards Alex Hello Alex. I used 15V only for testing voltages, final output voltages will be +5V for the usb receiver and the dac, so that is why I followed your J506 suggestion. Thank you for the link and Greg for maintaining current schematics on his site. It would be a shame to split board in half, so if you have advice how to make negative version positive I am all ears. One more, what or who is AK, it is mentioned in BOM on Gregs page, "AK modification to original circuit". Regards Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2013 21:59:07 GMT
Hi Marko In your case, as you aren't using the Current Limiter section, all you need to do to have both the same polarity, is to fit the same type of components , but with the PCB marked polarity of all electrolytic capacitors reversed. The J506 should be mounted in the same direction as at present in the other half. Regards Alex (A.K.) P.S. You will see a same polarity version here. Click on the image, then click on the new image for a better photo.
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Post by mkusan on Dec 29, 2013 0:08:11 GMT
Thank you Alex, you are too kind and obviously I could not get better help regarding ripple eaters. BTW. the Q1 and Q2 ends of R13 and R4 with input voltage of +5V are 3.86V vs 3.89V.
Regards Marko
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2013 0:34:03 GMT
Thank you Alex, you are too kind and obviously I could not get better help regarding ripple eaters. BTW. the Q1 and Q2 ends of R13 and R4 with input voltage of +5V are 3.86V vs 3.89V. Regards Marko Hi Marko All you need now is to duplicate those results on the other side when completed. Kind Regards Alex
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