Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Feb 23, 2013 11:10:17 GMT
I thought it was about time to get started on my mono amp project and will definitely need all the help I can get. I have never built any HIFI from scratch before so this is certainly going to be a challenge to my limited knowledge. I am concentrating on the casework first, then when I have that somewhere near to what I want i will then source the electronic components. I did not want to keep butting in on the wrong thread about the casework, so Marc & Alan, to give you an Idea of what I am trying to do I have posted some pics. The first pic is the raw materials. The second pic shows how I intend to put it together? The red arrows show the brackets where I intend to fix the 2mm top plate by velcrow? or something else (open to suggestions) to the 5mm case. The green arrows show where I tried to drill and tap the 5mm case and gave up, I cannot believe how hard the alloy is. The white arrows show where i will drill through the cross-members and fix the front plate with Allen bolts. The next pic show the front plates before and after - this is only a trial run but you get the Idea. Next pic shows how the front plate will roughly look. Now you know what I am trying to achieve, all suggestions on how to fix that top plate invisibly but not permanently will be greatly appreciated. Cheers Chris.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2013 11:26:02 GMT
Hi Chris Haaaaaaaaaaa I like the name Crispy fidelity cooooool That case work looks nice so off to a good start. Take care
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
Posts: 5,689
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Post by XTRProf on Feb 24, 2013 8:48:22 GMT
Chris,
Where did you get the case? I'm looking for one which is similar, but bigger, to do an X-Can V2 PSU. The legs look like the V2. Aluminium case?
Btw, I'm not sure showing a clone build that's close to original will get any copy right problem. So be mindful of what you show here.
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Feb 25, 2013 9:53:10 GMT
Chris, Where did you get the case? I'm looking for one which is similar, but bigger, to do an X-Can V2 PSU. The legs look like the V2. Aluminium case? Hi Chong The case was custom made to my specs by the lads who work with my brother in an aluminum factory, the cost was £35 each. If you give me the size you want for the case I can get you a price, but then the cost of shipping to Singapore may ruin everything they are quite heavy. Chris
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
Posts: 5,689
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Post by XTRProf on Feb 25, 2013 13:11:54 GMT
The case was custom made to my specs by the lads who work with my brother in an aluminum factory, the cost was £35 each. If you give me the size you want for the case I can get you a price, but then the cost of shipping to Singapore may ruin everything they are quite heavy. The legs dimensions and angles will be exactly like the X-Can V2 as I wanted it to look like the V2 series. I can use the squarish body of your design as I will be putting in 1 or 2 R-Core traffos. Btw, what dimensions of the body are yours? Maybe your dimensions will suffice my needs. If you can get it surface shipped, the shipping cost wouldn't be mind blowing. I think we better take this offline as we are writing about likely clones. More so yours than mine. Enough problems here already and not to add more.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 14:46:31 GMT
Hi Chris, have you decided how to fix your top plate yet?
You could fix it using the same principle that a 13amp socket strip would be attached to a wall. The strip has a hole to take the screw head and then an elongated slot the width of the screw shank, screw head in hole then slide along slot to fix. That's the principle.............how to effect the same without showing any fixing when the top is attached to the main body of your case I'd do like this.
On the inside wall of both sides epoxy glue two short lengths of 15mm X 15mm X1.5mm aluminium angle approx' one third in from each end and exactly level with the top of the side wall.
On the inside of the top plate epoxy glue two lengths of 15mm X 1.5mm flat aluminium bar across the width of the top plate. The length of this first bar should be the width of the top plate less 2 times the wall thickness = 10mm and 2 times the angle width = 30mm total 40mm. Glue a further 15mm X 1.5mm flat bar on top of the first, length being the width of the top plate less wall thickness 10mm. Position the flat bar on the inside of the top in the gaps between the two bits of angle so that when the top slides forward the flat bar slides under the angle.
Best way to proceed.........................glue the angle to the side walls.....................when dry place the top on a flat surface/workbench and sit the main case on top mark on the top/inside the position of the angle gaps and along the length of the angle..................using the marked top mark off the first two bars and cut about a mm oversize you can then dress down with a file and get a good fit. Glue both bars to the top plate, allow to dry before proceeding. Using the main case as a template mark off the top two bars the inner width of the sides and cut again allowing a mm or so over and dress down for a good fit not sloppy not tight. Take the top with the first bars glued and dry, place the main case body on top and place the second bar on top of the glued first it should be a nice fit. Make two alignment marks on both bars remove main case body and glue second longer bar on first bar using the marks. Got it all glued up then try a fit, pop the top on main case bars in gaps and slide forward. Hard wood blocks would do also if no ally. Hope it works for you if you decide to go down this path. Regards, Alan
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 17:21:51 GMT
Blimey Alan! I was thinking of two bodgy ways of doing it, which seem really naff now Anyhoosen, As the panels are already cut, you could; 1) add some sort of shim to the rear and front edges of the top plate, could be any type of metal/alloy or even a plastic. I was thinking of the really small c-section plactic bead you can get for trimming sharp metal or glass egdes. The added length to the top panel (1 or 2mm) would allow the front and rear panels to clamp the top panel in to place. i.e. to remove the lid, loosen the front and back panel mounting bolts and retighten after replacing the lid. OR, 2) As you seem to have access to a friendly welder, you could add some small "Z" shaped brackets to the underneath of the lid. These would be positioned so that the lid slides in from the back (back panel not in place)and the brackets both locate and grip the tabs you already have welded to the side panels. Clear as mud? Excellent!
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Post by gommer on Mar 3, 2013 18:39:15 GMT
Magnets, small strong ones can easily hold 20kg and more. Glue them, I'm confident that the magnet idea alone is enough to trigger your creativity.
Cheers, Marc
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 3, 2013 19:07:43 GMT
Magnets, small strong ones can easily hold 20kg and more. Glue them, I'm confident that the magnet idea alone is enough to trigger your creativity. Cheers, Marc Thanks Marc, I wish I had thought about magnets before I made my move Thanks also to Chris and Alan, two good suggestions, but what I came up with is speaker grille mounting pegs, I have not finished yet and I don't know if I will keep them if i don't then magnets seem the easiest route to go. Below is the speaker grille fixings with the thread taken off the right one, these will be glued to the underside of the top plate. The bottom part of the fixing is no nailed into the four corners. As you can see I have been busy and I cannot believe how much hard work and thought goes into a project like this It is a good job I am not busy work wise - as this project has stopped me going to the funny farm
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 3, 2013 19:20:18 GMT
While I am online can anybody tell me what these markings are on the PCB? I am only interested in the zig zag markings & 10R+L
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Post by gommer on Mar 3, 2013 19:48:03 GMT
That would probably mean coaxial resistor (10R) and inductor (L). Would have the be an air-coil, number of turns as per the zig-zag line?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 19:50:45 GMT
While I am online can anybody tell me what these markings are on the PCB? I am only interested in the zig zag markings & 10R+L I think it is likely to be a coil wound on a 10ohm resistor.Is it near the output section of an amplifier ? Alex
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 3, 2013 20:07:55 GMT
While I am online can anybody tell me what these markings are on the PCB? I am only interested in the zig zag markings & 10R+L I think it is likely to be a coil wound on a 10ohm resistor.Is it near the output section of an amplifier ? Alex Hi Alex, Pass I don't have a clue . My best bet is to post the schematic and a pic of the full board. Not sure if the schematic is true to the board though -even though it was sent to me by the PCB maker. Schematic: Actual Board: Pic pulled off the web:
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 20:53:36 GMT
Hi Chris I haven't had my wake up coffee yet, but the schematic appears to be incomplete at the output and doesn't show it. It can be seen in the photo at the centre near the big electrolytics. It is a Zobel coil at the output. You will see in the photo a PCB marking at the left of it marked Out. You will need to know the physical size of the 10 ohm resistor and the number of turns and the gauge of enamelled copper wire they wound on it, then soldered across each end of the resistor before covering it . Regards Alex
P.S. At a guess, I would say it's probably a 2 or 3W carbon resistor with possibly .8mm enamelled copper wire used to wind as many turns on it as you can conmfortably fit. Ask the supplier.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 23:46:51 GMT
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 5, 2013 15:19:38 GMT
Hi Chris I haven't had my wake up coffee yet, but the schematic appears to be incomplete at the output and doesn't show it. It can be seen in the photo at the centre near the big electrolytics. It is a Zobel coil at the output. You will see in the photo a PCB marking at the left of it marked Out. You will need to know the physical size of the 10 ohm resistor and the number of turns and the gauge of enamelled copper wire they wound on it, then soldered across each end of the resistor before covering it . Regards Alex P.S. At a guess, I would say it's probably a 2 or 3W carbon resistor with possibly .8mm enamelled copper wire used to wind as many turns on it as you can conmfortably fit. Ask the supplier. Hi Alex I am still waiting for a proper reply from the supplier off E-Bay where I got the boards, she said she is trying to get me a better quality schematic and will try to find out about the Zobel Coil, I had to send her a picture - I am guessing she is only a middle man(woman) who is only selling the gear on for someone else? I will let you know the info when I know. What would be the worse case scenario if I cannot find out this info - can it be worked out or do I have to abandon the project? Cheers Chris
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2013 21:01:57 GMT
Hi Chris Having the PCB, you should be able to get a rough idea of the diameter and length of the resistor used from the photo . Using .8mm wire enamelled copper wire, wind as many turns on a suitable sized resistor as will comfortably fit. Regards Alex
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leo
Been here a while!
Team wtf is it?
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Post by leo on Mar 6, 2013 8:56:26 GMT
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 6, 2013 9:34:04 GMT
Hi Leo Thanks for the links, they do work and it gives me the general idea - you are spot on with the 10ohm 2w resistor as I have just heard from my supplier this morning.
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 6, 2013 9:42:08 GMT
P.S. At a guess, I would say it's probably a 2 or 3W carbon resistor with possibly .8mm enameled copper wire used to wind as many turns on it as you can conmfortably fit. Ask the supplier. Hi Alex, I have just heard from the supplier this morning and she says R is a 10ohm 2W resistor and L is 2UH? Is enameled copper wire widely available and does the size of the round bar make any difference - I was thinking of winding it around a pen or a drill bit like Alan did in his inductor tutorial. Cheers Chris
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 6, 2013 10:08:57 GMT
P.S. At a guess, I would say it's probably a 2 or 3W carbon resistor with possibly .8mm enameled copper wire used to wind as many turns on it as you can conmfortably fit. Ask the supplier. Hi Alex, I have just heard from the supplier this morning and she says R is a 10ohm 2W resistor and L is 2UH? Is enameled copper wire widely available and does the size of the round bar make any difference - I was thinking of winding it around a pen or a drill bit like Alan did in his inductor tutorial. Cheers Chris Hi Chris Enamelled copper wire should be readily available, as I can buy rolls of different gauge wire over the counter at Jaycar. Using Alan's method you would still need a 10 ohm resistor to dampen the inductance. It would have been nice if they had given you a part number for the resistor as there doesn't appear to be standardisation in sizes of 2W and 3W resistors. A 10 ohm resistor of around 5 or 6mm diameter should be suitable. Just wind as many turns on it as you can comfortably fit. Regards Alex
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 6, 2013 10:21:50 GMT
Hi Chris Enameled copper wire should be readily available, as I can buy rolls of different gauge wire over the counter at Jaycar. Using Alan's method you would still need a 10 ohm resistor to dampen the inductance. It would have been nice if they had given you a part number for the resistor as there doesn't appear to be standardization in sizes of 2W and 3W resistors. A 10 ohm resistor of around 5 or 6mm diameter should be suitable. Just wind as many turns on it as you can comfortably fit. Regards Alex Thanks for that Alex, I will try to source some 2W resistors of that diameter and some enameled wire - then I will have fun trying to make it up Chris
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Post by gommer on Mar 6, 2013 11:01:19 GMT
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pingu
Been here a while!
Reallising what has been taken on with the GB
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Post by pingu on Mar 6, 2013 16:53:03 GMT
Hi Crispyface, Enamelled copper wire can be bought in small quanties and various diameters from Maplins. Not the cheapest way of doing things but if you only need a few meters probably the best shot. They sell 0.71mm and 0.9mm either should be near enough but I an sure that some one will be able to give you amore better idea. Try this link; www.maplin.co.uk/productsearch?criteria=eameled+copper+wireThe case looks brilliant by the way makes me very envious ....lol Martin
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Mar 7, 2013 17:05:35 GMT
Hi Crispyface, Enameled copper wire can be bought in small quantities and various diameters from Maplins. Not the cheapest way of doing things but if you only need a few meters probably the best shot. They sell 0.71mm and 0.9mm either should be near enough but I an sure that some one will be able to give you amore better idea. Try this link; www.maplin.co.uk/productsearch?criteria=eameled+copper+wireThe case looks brilliant by the way makes me very envious ....lol Hi Martin Thanks for the link - I did not realize how dear the wire is (anybody out there got a spare bit of 0.8mm they don't want) I am trying to keep the cost down with work being a bit thin on the ground. Thanks for the compliment on the cases, I will be posting an update soon showing the progress now that I have just got some more alloy for the second case.
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