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Post by Imagemaker18 on Mar 24, 2013 21:42:37 GMT
Not over impressed with the quality of fit by means of the 4 self tapping screws, that hold the inner and outer cups together. The bosses that the screws screw into are very poor quality "plastic", and one of mine was showing signs of cracking after just one dismantle. I certainly would not want to dismantle too often, as stripped threads, and or broken bosses, is imminent even with VERY gentle torque applied to screws. When i am satisfied that i wont be making entry anymore, i shall seal my two halves together probably using silicon sealant or such like, and just replace the screws for appearance value. Mick Mick, I guess I have been lucky so far, and mine haven't stripped yet, but there is always a chance that it may happen. I read somewhere that one can restore the threads to a certain extent by applying tiny amounts of superglue, carefully applied with a thin piece of wire inside the stripped threaded holes, hence giving the self-threading screws something to bite on. Haven't tried it myself, so I am not sure that it would work. Sealing the cups with silicon sounds too final and irreversible to me. What if the sealing itself changes the SQ for the worse? Perhaps sealing with non-permanent rubber glue would be better? What do you think? Kind Regards, Israel
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 22:12:50 GMT
Hi Israel,
I refer you to my last post, continuous tweaking is not the road i personally wish to go down as explained in the post.
The quality of plastic used in there construction will not lend itself to restoration by plugging the holes in the bosses, its far to brittle.
Superglue or two part epoxy resin might give a short term solution, but i have my doubts, if you are constantly removing the screws for experimental purposes.
The quality of materials used in manufacture of this HP`s casing is perfectly in line with the cost, as they certainly wasn`t designed to be taken apart on a regular basis. Self tapping screws into plastic are designed for a sealed for life build as part of the manufacture process.
Regards.
Mick.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2013 23:37:16 GMT
Hi Mick On several occasions, with older pairs of glasses, the wing has become detached near the front hinge. Using superglue or 2 part epoxy seems to last about a week or so before the wing falls off again. Recently, an Optometrist made the repair. It lasted only 1 week. I cleaned out the hole in the wing and put in a small portion of JB Weld epoxy. Months later it is still rock solid. They claim you can even drill or tap JB Weld after setting, but I think that claim is stretching things a bit where strength is needed. Regards Alex
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Post by Imagemaker18 on Mar 24, 2013 23:49:01 GMT
Hi Israel, I refer you to my last post, continuous tweaking is not the road i personally wish to go down as explained in the post. The quality of plastic used in there construction will not lend itself to restoration by plugging the holes in the bosses, its far to brittle. Superglue or two part epoxy resin might give a short term solution, but i have my doubts, if you are constantly removing the screws for experimental purposes. The quality of materials used in manufacture of this HP`s casing is perfectly in line with the cost, as they certainly wasn`t designed to be taken apart on a regular basis. Self tapping screws into plastic are designed for a sealed for life build as part of the manufacture process. Regards. Mick. Hi, Mick Thinking about it further, I see that you make a very valid point! These phones were not intended to be continuously tinkered with - something I have been known to go with a bit further than I should. My striving to reach higher and higher, can sometimes be unrealistic, and, lead to disaster! . Believe it or not, I do intend to quit, and leave it at that, which is quite OK. I must keep in mind that it will be next to impossible to make the T40/T50 sound as good as my HE-500. I am going to try a couple of more tweaks, and then quit. I will however, try something other than silicone to seal them with. Perhaps hot glue or double stick tape. Kind Regards, Israel
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pagan
Been here a while!
Posts: 512
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Post by pagan on Mar 25, 2013 7:35:26 GMT
Hi Syd, I have carried out what to my mind makes sense to improve these HP`s, more comfortable and better sealing ear pads, stiffening of the inner casing with clay, and some deadening of standing waves in the outer casing with foam pads. This has given a positive increase in SQ to a small degree which i am very happy with, the filter option to my way of thinking will be the last upgrade and will probably give the best upgrade to the SQ. I really can`t be bothered to constantly pull these apart and experiment, in the hope of finding utopia, as i am happy with the performance at the present level. In fact i will now be sealing the two halves of the cups together, just in case someone discovers that adding a gram of fairy dust lifts the SQ to a whole new level, just in case i feel the urge to do the same. For the price, these are a really nice sounding HP even without any modifications. Mick. And something for the dusty fairies Using the modeling clay(as adults call it) or plasticine for us kids.. I wonder how much it's used for resonances, or more for adding mass for the drivers ? If, more for mass, then you could try mixing some lead into the plasticine..... Thought came when I found some old fishing sinkers, could easily file off fragments of the lead for mixing. File off with a rasp or course file.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2013 10:56:04 GMT
Hi Mick On several occasions, with older pairs of glasses, the wing has become detached near the front hinge. Using superglue or 2 part epoxy seems to last about a week or so before the wing falls off again. Recently, an Optometrist made the repair. It lasted only 1 week. I cleaned out the hole in the wing and put in a small portion of JB Weld epoxy. Months later it is still rock solid. They claim you can even drill or tap JB Weld after setting, but I think that claim is stretching things a bit where strength is needed. Regards Alex Hi Alex, I have never tried JB Weld, If you say its a remedy then great. The problem with mine is that the 6mm boss itself has cracks running through it, and is about to shatter, leaving nothing for the screw to attach to. Could try to replace the boss with a similar size piece of this material, and as you say, small pilot hole, and screw straight into the "weld". Mick.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2013 11:11:09 GMT
Hi Mick. It's not perfect, but at least much better than recent 2 part epoxy mixes. In this rented house, the heavy turquoise toilet seat lid had it's 2 hinges broken due to the rusted long bolts that allowed the outer hinges to move backwards and forwards , so that the lid came off and fell on the floor when lifted. An attempted repair with normal 2 part epoxy didn't last long at all. The dark looking JB Weld was used to join the lids 2 broken circular retaining clips together where the tube went through them, and reinforce them with added thickness. It doesn't look like breaking again any time soon. Kind Regards Alex
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Post by Deleted on Mar 26, 2013 11:34:29 GMT
Hi Alex,
Sounds like a very useful material to have handy for a lot of applications.
I will purchase some.
Thank you.
ATB.
Mick.
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Post by Imagemaker18 on Mar 28, 2013 17:45:11 GMT
I replaced the fiberglass damping in my T50 with exactly 0.6 gram of fluffed up sheep's wool in each cup, and the result is a big improvement in SQ: wider sound stage, better, more resonant bass, while at the same time tighter. I was amazed at the improvement. After playing them awhile, just for the hell of it, I decided to try different OpAmps on the active filter. Mind you, there was nothing wrong with the LM4562A OpAmps - they sounded great, but the tinkerer in me was itching to try something else. I had 4 AD8620 OpAmps (mounted on BrownDog SMT to 8 Pin DIP adapters) lying around, and was curious how they would work out. And, Lo and Behold! There was a marked improvement and refinement, especially in the HF! Strings sound silkier, bass, while already very good, improved, there seems to be a quicker decay, and better transient response, as well as some further expansion of the sound stage. This is about as close as I can get to the characteristics of my phenomenal HE-500, and it is pretty darn close! . These OpAmps are not cheap (about $15.00 US each, or $60.00 US for the lot), but to me they are worth it! Of course, all of this is slanted to MY hearing, and your mileage may vary. I may be in for some surprises after I build the headphone testing rig, for charts don't lie. For now, however I am very happy, and don't intend to do anymore modding on the T50. So, on to my T40 for sheep's wool damping. Cheers! Israel
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2013 18:09:21 GMT
Israel,
I'm currently running a TLE2072A in my 3x9 Zigis cmoy. It was intended to have the LM4562 too but the TLE is very different, I'm still getting used to it at the moment but two of the attributes that spring out are a deeper, well controlled bass and a less cold HF area without losing detail.
It may be worth a spin in your filter and they're dirt cheap!
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Post by Imagemaker18 on Mar 28, 2013 19:38:06 GMT
Israel, I'm currently running a TLE2072A in my 3x9 Zigis cmoy. It was intended to have the LM4562 too but the TLE is very different, I'm still getting used to it at the moment but two of the attributes that spring out are a deeper, well controlled bass and a less cold HF area without losing detail. It may be worth a spin in your filter and they're dirt cheap! Thanks! I may give them a try. Cheers! Israel
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 12, 2013 9:40:30 GMT
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oldson
Been here a while!
Older than a well used glove
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Post by oldson on Apr 12, 2013 19:30:07 GMT
hey Mike when you are done with the modded t50's , you can sell them to me
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 12, 2013 19:40:59 GMT
hey Mike when you are done with the modded t50's , you can sell them to me I'd rather sell you some plasticine and sheep's parts so you could DIY
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oldson
Been here a while!
Older than a well used glove
Posts: 414
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Post by oldson on Apr 12, 2013 19:49:30 GMT
hey Mike when you are done with the modded t50's , you can sell them to me I'd rather sell you some plasticine and sheep's parts so you could DIY i aint got any t50's and i wont be putting that shite in my denons.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 18:51:12 GMT
What a difference a change in the weather can make.... the last couple of days I've been tweaking and building a few things and finally managed to finish my T50RP to a sound that really suits my preferences. I tried a few things but it turns out that less is more.... well, to my ears anyway! The plasticine is definitely better "in" than out, there's no doubt it improves the soundstage, clarity and midrange detailing: That bloody AWFUL headphone socket, with it's intermittent connection was getting on my nerves so I removed it and recabled with some OFC Evolution cable. Just look at the thing, it's absolute rubbish.... no wonder the connection was intermittent: I decided to stick with the single entry cable using the hole that used to house the socket.... a simple "grommet" is all that's required for a really tight fit: I added a "belt and braces" cable tie to be sure that this cable is never going anywhere!: I cannot say that the recabling made any kind of "sonic" improvement BUT that awful intermittent connection is a thing of the past, the Evolution cable is totally silent (unlike the stock cable which was microphonic) AND it is now only 1 metre long as opposed to the stock cable which seemed like a mile long! Hold on...... the recabling "has" made a sonic improvement By far the BIGGEST improvement was the sheep's wool. I'm lucky enough to be surrounded by all sorts of sheep and a friendly farmer who was more than happy to shave some off selected sheep for me I'm also fortunate to know a Woman in the village who makes wool jumpers using traditional methods.... she, very kindly, washed and "carded" the wool for me and here is the end result: WAY too much for one pair of headphones so if anybody wants some I'll send it free, just pay P&P. I tried a few different quantity variations and found that a small fistful was best. This stuff REALLY brings the midrange out of the mire AND preserves the bass response! I thought there would be a trade off between more mids = less bass but, no, the sheep's wool is absolutely perfect for this application! I haven't tried the cotton buds / cotton balls but would imagine they would be too densely packed to do a really good job..... I'm more than happy with the plasticine and sheep's wool and have decided to quit whilst I am winning. These are the best headphones I have heard, at any price, and the midrange detail is mindblowing at times.... I am picking up some artefacts from recordings that I wasn't previously aware of.... the retrieval of minutiae through these 'phones is absolutely stunning! A big thanks to Ian for pointing me in the T50RP's general direction, these are now my number ONE reference headphone AND will be my main listening headphone. A quids worth of plasticine (and you've got enough left over to make Wallace and Grommit!), a penny "grommet", a quids worth of cable and some free sheep's wool has transformed these headphones into something very special
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2013 19:15:52 GMT
Hi Mike, your variety pack sheep's wool..............did you use the white stuff or the darker coloured? The white looks softer whilst the darker colours look wiry'er..................errr..... or don't it matter. Harking back I think the reccy was for long hair wool...............I've a farming friend pulling some off her sheep for me she said I'd get enough to stuff a pillow. Pity we have to buy the plasticine our grand-kids use playdough.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 19:28:38 GMT
Hi Mike, your variety pack sheep's wool..............did you use the white stuff or the darker coloured? The white looks softer whilst the darker colours look wiry'er..................errr..... or don't it matter. Harking back I think the reccy was for long hair wool...............I've a farming friend pulling some off her sheep for me she said I'd get enough to stuff a pillow. Pity we have to buy the plasticine our grand-kids use playdough. Hiya Alan, I delved into the dark wool pile.... no particular reason other than it's not as common as the white.... both black and white, irrespective, are probably the best natural substance you can use in this application..... would you like a listen to my pair of T50RP? I'm more than happy to send them over to you. Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 19:30:34 GMT
I'd rather sell you some plasticine and sheep's parts so you could DIY i aint got any t50's and i wont be putting that shite in my denons. erm...... sheep's wool is one of the best things you could ever dream of using..... it's far from "shite" ;-)
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 19:34:48 GMT
Alan..... do you have a Lama close by? Their hair is supposed to have even better audio qualities than sheep's hair.
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 20:03:25 GMT
When refitting you "WANT" a bit of wool to foul the screw holes / mounting points this will ensure a better screw to hole bond...... I went one step further and threadlocked each joint with Loctite 243. Mike.
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
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Post by Crispy on Apr 14, 2013 20:26:38 GMT
i aint got any t50's and i wont be putting that shite in my denons. erm...... sheep's wool is one of the best things you could ever dream of using..... it's far from "shite" ;-) Simon, I have sheep's wool stuffed in my Acoustic Energy AE1 speakers and I can tell you it is far from shite, I am now thinking of using it in my subs and Beyer headphones.
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Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
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Post by Crispy on Apr 14, 2013 20:44:20 GMT
What a difference a change in the weather can make.... the last couple of days I've been tweaking and building a few things and finally managed to finish my T50RP to a sound that really suits my preferences. I tried a few things but it turns out that less is more.... well, to my ears anyway! The plasticine is definitely better "in" than out, there's no doubt it improves the soundstage, clarity and midrange detailing: That bloody AWFUL headphone socket, with it's intermittent connection was getting on my nerves so I removed it and recabled with some OFC Evolution cable. Just look at the thing, it's absolute rubbish.... no wonder the connection was intermittent: I decided to stick with the single entry cable using the hole that used to house the socket.... a simple "grommet" is all that's required for a really tight fit: I added a "belt and braces" cable tie to be sure that this cable is never going anywhere!: I cannot say that the recabling made any kind of "sonic" improvement BUT that awful intermittent connection is a thing of the past, the Evolution cable is totally silent (unlike the stock cable which was microphonic) AND it is now only 1 metre long as opposed to the stock cable which seemed like a mile long! Hold on...... the recabling "has" made a sonic improvement By far the BIGGEST improvement was the sheep's wool. I'm lucky enough to be surrounded by all sorts of sheep and a friendly farmer who was more than happy to shave some off selected sheep for me I'm also fortunate to know a Woman in the village who makes wool jumpers using traditional methods.... she, very kindly, washed and "carded" the wool for me and here is the end result: WAY too much for one pair of headphones so if anybody wants some I'll send it free, just pay P&P. I tried a few different quantity variations and found that a small fistful was best. This stuff REALLY brings the midrange out of the mire AND preserves the bass response! I thought there would be a trade off between more mids = less bass but, no, the sheep's wool is absolutely perfect for this application! I haven't tried the cotton buds / cotton balls but would imagine they would be too densely packed to do a really good job..... I'm more than happy with the plasticine and sheep's wool and have decided to quit whilst I am winning. These are the best headphones I have heard, at any price, and the midrange detail is mindblowing at times.... I am picking up some artefacts from recordings that I wasn't previously aware of.... the retrieval of minutiae through these 'phones is absolutely stunning! A big thanks to Ian for pointing me in the T50RP's general direction, these are now my number ONE reference headphone AND will be my main listening headphone. A quids worth of plasticine (and you've got enough left over to make Wallace and Grommit!), a penny "grommet", a quids worth of cable and some free sheep's wool has transformed these headphones into something very special You've done another fantastic job there Mike like you say less is more, getting rid of that stupid headphone socket must have made a big difference I am really interested in the TR50, but would like to know if the plasticine and sheep's wool help the isolation with them being open backed? Do you think putting a handful of wool in my Beyer DT770's will improve them along with some Plasticine, if so you can put me down for some of your wool - it always sounds better when it's free anyway
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 20:46:49 GMT
erm...... sheep's wool is one of the best things you could ever dream of using..... it's far from "shite" ;-) Simon, I have sheep's wool stuffed in my Acoustic Energy AE1 speakers and I can tell you it is far from shite, I am now thinking of using it in my subs and Beyer headphones. Chris, I am also confident enough to send these over to you for a listen........ if you're interested in a test drive let me know. Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Apr 14, 2013 20:58:02 GMT
What a difference a change in the weather can make.... the last couple of days I've been tweaking and building a few things and finally managed to finish my T50RP to a sound that really suits my preferences. I tried a few things but it turns out that less is more.... well, to my ears anyway! The plasticine is definitely better "in" than out, there's no doubt it improves the soundstage, clarity and midrange detailing: That bloody AWFUL headphone socket, with it's intermittent connection was getting on my nerves so I removed it and recabled with some OFC Evolution cable. Just look at the thing, it's absolute rubbish.... no wonder the connection was intermittent: I decided to stick with the single entry cable using the hole that used to house the socket.... a simple "grommet" is all that's required for a really tight fit: I added a "belt and braces" cable tie to be sure that this cable is never going anywhere!: I cannot say that the recabling made any kind of "sonic" improvement BUT that awful intermittent connection is a thing of the past, the Evolution cable is totally silent (unlike the stock cable which was microphonic) AND it is now only 1 metre long as opposed to the stock cable which seemed like a mile long! Hold on...... the recabling "has" made a sonic improvement By far the BIGGEST improvement was the sheep's wool. I'm lucky enough to be surrounded by all sorts of sheep and a friendly farmer who was more than happy to shave some off selected sheep for me I'm also fortunate to know a Woman in the village who makes wool jumpers using traditional methods.... she, very kindly, washed and "carded" the wool for me and here is the end result: WAY too much for one pair of headphones so if anybody wants some I'll send it free, just pay P&P. I tried a few different quantity variations and found that a small fistful was best. This stuff REALLY brings the midrange out of the mire AND preserves the bass response! I thought there would be a trade off between more mids = less bass but, no, the sheep's wool is absolutely perfect for this application! I haven't tried the cotton buds / cotton balls but would imagine they would be too densely packed to do a really good job..... I'm more than happy with the plasticine and sheep's wool and have decided to quit whilst I am winning. These are the best headphones I have heard, at any price, and the midrange detail is mindblowing at times.... I am picking up some artefacts from recordings that I wasn't previously aware of.... the retrieval of minutiae through these 'phones is absolutely stunning! A big thanks to Ian for pointing me in the T50RP's general direction, these are now my number ONE reference headphone AND will be my main listening headphone. A quids worth of plasticine (and you've got enough left over to make Wallace and Grommit!), a penny "grommet", a quids worth of cable and some free sheep's wool has transformed these headphones into something very special You've done another fantastic job there Mike like you say less is more, getting rid of that stupid headphone socket must have made a big difference I am really interested in the TR50, but would like to know if the plasticine and sheep's wool help the isolation with them being open backed? Do you think putting a handful of wool in my Beyer DT770's will improve them along with some Plasticine, if so you can put me down for some of your wool - it always sounds better when it's free anyway No no no...... it doesn't work like that Chris! (unfortunately) Mike.
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