|
|
Post by absorb on Oct 17, 2012 5:11:59 GMT
Could someone please pm me regarding acquiring an EB valve, I assume that's the one I want? Thanks I would like to ask a technical question also. When outputting the T1 to an amp (line out) has anyone had any issues getting sound? I get sound through the line out with the usb input but not the line in. If using headphones I get sound from either of the inputs. I managed to get sound using the headphone jack as an output to the amp and line in to the source, but this has the volume control in play. After looking in the booklet it doesn't actually say you can use the line in and the line out together, but it doesn't say you can't either. Thanks  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 6:51:49 GMT
If you pm Pink Floyd, the Admin who runs this site, he can supply them. He also tests them before shipping them out so that you know you are getting a good one!!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 6:52:30 GMT
Six sold...... 4 left I should think so!!! They are extremely good units.  |
|
|
|
Post by absorb on Oct 17, 2012 7:28:45 GMT
Cheers Ian, PM sent |
|
|
|
Post by gommer on Oct 20, 2012 13:37:11 GMT
Just a small update, telling that the traveling T1 is not in sight yet.
Cheers, Marc
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2012 13:49:52 GMT
Hi Marc,
Fortuitous post, I just checked the tracker, it left the Spanish international hub yesterday.
It should be with you Monday/Tuesday.
Enjoy.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2012 14:05:11 GMT
The EB valves are available from "Pink Floyd" (Mike). As they are rather special it may be worth ordering a pair which will even come matched from here; www.rock-grotto.co.uk/x-ccessories.htmlMike is a very busy man and may not have noticed your request within the forum thread. I'm afraid I can't help on the line in/out setting as I did not try that particular connectivity. |
|
Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631 
|
Post by Crispy on Oct 20, 2012 14:40:50 GMT
I tried to use the T1 as a source from my laptop = laptop to T1 via usb then line out to pre-amp. No problem getting sound.
I did not try the line in but I think Chris (CJ) or Ian did, so they may be able to help you.
Chris
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2012 18:29:09 GMT
I didn't notice any problems either. Chris, you went into a preamp so perhaps the problem is NOT going into a preamp first? I've no idea what the output is from the back.
I've tried some different valves and they do change the sound in a pretty obvious way. That means the choice of valve with this is quite important to the sound. I still prefer the EB's but that may be because I'm tuned in to them. I'm also quite partial to the Jan Philips.
The stock valve to me isn't as well defined as it could be.
I like both the EB's and JP's in my X-Cans as well.
One thing I'm really keen on as well is the temperature that it settles into in the UK climate. It doesn't get baking hot at all.
|
|
Crispy
500+
"Done me wrong," it's the same old song" - forever
Posts: 631
|
Post by Crispy on Oct 21, 2012 12:08:35 GMT
I just had another thought - it may sound silly but have flicked the switch on the top from USB to Line Chris |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2012 15:25:37 GMT
That could be a big Bingo there Chris. It never occurred to me 'cos it's so simple.
Sent from my HTC Wildfire S A510e using proboards
|
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 21, 2012 21:42:46 GMT
Totally agree with you there Ian, they are particularly good with the T1 I dipped into my box of them the other day ( rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=q&action=display&thread=6494 ) and slotted one into the T1... a nice rock solid type of presentation with very sweet mids and extended highs.... maybe it was my imagination but they seem a bit more "OPEN" than the EB's. One thing I have noticed with the JAN Philips 6922 (Joint army Navy = military spec) are the pins..... the batch is 100% NOS / never used and preserved in a vacuum but the pins have been open to the elements for all those years..... I like to go over them with some 800 grade wet / dry paper to get rid of the surface oxidisation and find this improves things slightly...... Some people have reported crackles / pops / noise from their X-CAN amps and I recommend they clean the JAN 6922 pins.... 9 times out of ten it works wonders. You don't even have to be so pedantic to use 800 grade paper, a simple scrape over the pins with a sharp craft knife will do the trick. The Russian EB's have chrome pins so no such niggles with them, those bastards are built like tanks, inside and out.... ready to plug and play WHATEVER the scenario..... ready to go into battle at a moment's notice in true Mil-Spec style. Just picture the scenario.... the yanks and the Russians are lined up to do battle (back in the day).... BOTH sides control panels have gone down and they have to repair them before they can hit the NUKE! button........ The Russians will have the edge as they simply slot in their chrome pinned EB's and press the NUKE! button..... the yanks will still be scraping the JAN Philips' pins whilst being peppered with Rusky Nukes! I dunno..... maybe they employed a "pin polisher" whose sole job was polishing pins so they were all ready to "roll" into action at a moments notice. Any of the JAN Philips 6922 that I sell come pre polished so they are ready for action.... I start with 800 grade and finish with 1200 grade...... Good contact is essential and it's interesting to measure one out of the carton and then measure the SAME valve with polished pins..... the polished pin valve ALWAYS measures better..... Just thought I'd mention this as it's not often discussed..... those people who don't like the JAN Philips 6922 are possibly not getting the best out of it due to less than ideal contacts. It's taken the best part of 30 years for these deposits to build up on the pins so, once removed, no further action should be necessary.... as soon as they are inserted into the valve socket the actual connection is tight (as opposed to a pin exposed to the elements)..... if anything, the minimum that would be required is a simple "in and out" of the socket once or twice a year to keep the contacts clean.... even a little "roll" from side to side would suffice. Yup, the valve may be preserved in a vacuum but the pins are exposed to the elements and, as such, deserve a little "scrape" before being put into service Ian, I've got a little something for you that I'm going to send (as soon as I recover from this chest infection) and will include a few valves for you to try out in your T1..... I won't say a word but want to know which one you think sounds the best  I'll mark each one (ie: 1, 2 , 3, 4 etc,) I've already taken notes Let's see how they compare. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2012 22:06:07 GMT
Just a thought/tip on cleaning the pins on valves - use one of the Missus's emery boards they use on their finger nails?
|
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 21, 2012 22:23:12 GMT
Just a thought/tip on cleaning the pins on valves - use one of the Missus's emery boards they use on their finger nails? Yes! good tip Dave |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 21, 2012 22:41:10 GMT
6N1P-EB can also be used, they run HOT but I think the T1 and PSU can cope Scotty..... more on this later, I'm experimenting with mine to see what we can, and can't, do with it 6N1P-EB is a military spec valve but demands more current than the 6N23P-EB..... it sometimes sounds BETTER than the 6N23P-EB BUT the circuit / PSU has to be fit to cope with the extra current it demands..... it's also a cheaper option than the 6N23P-EB (but an equally BULLET PROOF valve)...... leave it with me, it will be great if the T1 (as is) can run with the 6N1P-EB. |
|
pagan
Been here a while! 
Posts: 512
|
Post by pagan on Oct 22, 2012 6:07:53 GMT
Just a thought/tip on cleaning the pins on valves - use one of the Missus's emery boards they use on their finger nails? Next will be using her nail polish for a "lock-tight" for screws and nuts. I use flouro yellow myself  |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 23, 2012 8:17:43 GMT
These are now £129 SHIPPED (UK members only) only 7 left so be quick! |
|
|
|
Post by gommer on Oct 23, 2012 9:21:14 GMT
The T1 has arrived with me (at work, so no chance at listening yet). It looks nice indeed, blah blah, i won't repeat what all my predecessors said about it's looks. Completely agree there. But one small gripe already: non-replaceable UK power plug.  I know this one was for the UK market, but they could have fit a IEC socket on the power supply, or make it a universal type plug. Since I don't own any travel adapters, Mike, am i allowed to screw on another (Schuko style) power plug? This is non-destructive, as the plug is a screw type thingy, not moulded. Cheers, Marc |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 23, 2012 20:15:09 GMT
The T1 has arrived with me (at work, so no chance at listening yet). It looks nice indeed, blah blah, i won't repeat what all my predecessors said about it's looks. Completely agree there. But one small gripe already: non-replaceable UK power plug. I know this one was for the UK market, but they could have fit a IEC socket on the power supply, or make it a universal type plug. Since I don't own any travel adapters, Mike, am i allowed to screw on another (Schuko style) power plug? This is non-destructive, as the plug is a screw type thingy, not moulded. Cheers, Marc Mark, All of the ones I bought are for the UK market so all come with a dedicated UK 3 pin mains plug. Just chop the plug off if you want and fit a plug of your choice, it's really not a problem  I totally agree about the IEC inlet, it would make it a lot easier to ship to ALL 230V countries with no worries about fixed lead / dedicated mains plugs fitted...... In fact, I wouldn't even bother shipping an IEC lead with it, they are two a penny in any country and the "end user" can fit his / her own. Mark, go ahead and chop that 3 pin plug off and fit your own "region specific" plug..... no probs at all  |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2012 21:05:19 GMT
I never gave that a thought Marc! I have dozens of the damn things all over the place, If I had twigged I'd have left one in place  Don't forget that EB valve is also in the packaging |
|
|
|
Post by gommer on Oct 24, 2012 22:02:31 GMT
This thing is confusing me  Found flaws and merits of both DAC and HA parts. Comparing it with WAP-4500 for DAC and Panda for HA and also trying to judge it as a one piece combo. Then there's the different valves, ... oh, and different headphones too ... I'll need some time before my mind settles. Cheers, Marc PS. Screw driver bit set is always ready for battle at my desk and a plug only a few steps away, so the T1 was playing yesterday as soon as my family duties were done. |
|
|
|
Post by absorb on Oct 25, 2012 5:38:25 GMT
I just had another thought - it may sound silly but have flicked the switch on the top from USB to Line Chris I tried that about 50 times, and every other combination possible I got a replacement one and it's exactly the same so I assume they are just unable to do that. It's only an issue if I want to use line in on the T1 and output with the line out to my amp. USB to line out on the T1 to my amp is fine and Line in to headphone out on the T1 is fine. It's only the combination of line in to line out on the T1 that doesn't work. I have tried two units now and same thing. Even the one I sent back was said to be working when they tested it. It just means I can't switch sources through the T1 at a whim and will have to bypass the T1 and go straight in to my amp with other audio players. The manual seems to support what I'm saying although it doesn't say it directly. It's more what it doesn't say. Maybe it's an oversight in the functionality or I have tried two from a bad batch. Maybe what I am trying to do (since the line in is already analogue and doesn't need converting) is not what it's intended for. I was hoping it would do the same magic with the analogue signal that it does with the digital USB signal. It's not a big deal either way as I will only be using the USB input. I look forward to my new valve turning up so it will sound even better |
|
mrarroyo
Been here a while!
Our man in Miami!
Posts: 1,003
|
Post by mrarroyo on Oct 25, 2012 10:10:35 GMT
In other amp/dac combos I have owned that have a line input it is only for the unit. In those units the line input can not be used as a pass through.
|
|
|
|
Post by rainman on Oct 25, 2012 16:41:54 GMT
Hi guys Not been around for a long time.. Has anyone compared the T1 to either of the following: Graham Slee Solo MF V Can Neck V.2 Portable Especially with Senn HD650 ? |
|
|
|
Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 25, 2012 17:42:49 GMT
Hi guys Not been around for a long time.. Has anyone compared the T1 to either of the following: Graham $lee Solo MF V Can Neck V.2 Portable Especially with Senn HD650 ? Not really fair comparisons as the V-CAN and Solo are dedicated headphone amps...... the T1 is a DAC and an amp in one. If your music is primarily computer as source then I know what my £129 would be spent on. The T1 actually manages to embarrass some quite expensive amps AND it has a built in digital to analogue converter. It is a serious piece of kit for not a lot of money. I hope this helps to answer your question. |
|
I'll mark each one (ie: 1, 2 , 3, 4 etc,) I've already taken notes 
