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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2012 12:19:33 GMT
From where do you get 18V or 24V linear, regulated supplies to power the Zigis through it's DC input? I've been looking for such a PS for my Aune Mini USB DAC and getting an affordable device (I'm thinking circa £20) is not easy: most of the ones around are SMPS. (And I can't run to a Pinkie!) Fact is, good cheap power supplies are hard to get, John. I'm using a 24v supply that came with one of the Bravo series tube amps. They're not brilliant but it does supply a better dynamic. No noise is buzzing through but I'd like a 30v DC supply really but decent quality. There's not a great deal to be had by sticking a cheap supply on imo since noise may be an issue. It's something that Mike demonstrated to me big time with his Little Pinkie se. It is a great supply and I know that it comes at a price but the ease of use/dynamic range/lack of noise made my V8 behave SO well. Zigisg does a power supply on his site which is cheap but it has an annoying two pin European plug so it would need to go into an adapter for us. I hate that nonsense since the plug will be sitting on a platform above the mains plug - not ideal. I'm looking for a nice 30v as Zigsg suggested. Not easy to come by but using the cheap little 24v thing I have has shown the dynamics that are available from the amp. The only thing is that a 30v supply will dwarf the amp and look quite funny as a combo, but I've been using it since I got it most of the time and it's really doing a very good job. I can't use the Pinkies 'cos they're AC. I made that mistake once before with my Mini Ape and Mike fixed it for me!!! Felt such a fool. I always associated CMoys with average sound and good value, but this seems quite a bit better with a good power supply. |
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toad
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Post by toad on Feb 14, 2012 11:06:18 GMT
I'm glad the Zigis is getting some well deserved praise. I got my first one in 2007 and another with the DC in socket 2 or 3 years later. They are cracking amps for the price I paid and they are even cheaper now  Ian |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2012 13:40:31 GMT
Hi Ian.
John has sent me a v1 to compare. That'll be interesting in order to see whether the removal of the caps makes any difference.
Hopefully it'll arrive tomorrow.
Thanks John.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 13:32:45 GMT
John's V1 arrived so I set them up side by side, got them to the same volume with same music and headphone to compare.
The IS a slight difference. The V2 is slightly crisper up top. It is perhaps a tad more 'see through'. The biggest advantage is to plug the V2 in.
Zigisg says he took capacitors out of the audio path to clean the sound up and it looks as though it actually does.
However, if you're using it with a Portapro or something of that quality, it probably isn't worth a lot.
I'm detecting the differences on a K601 and would say that the V2 is slightly more 'airy'. Both have good bass but plugging in gives more authority so the V2 is a better amp. Very slightly on battery power and the advantage of a power supply on the V2 is even better.
He's hanged the looks too. Same plastic box but a brass front and black volume control.
Thing is, would I get a V2 if I had a V1? If I was purely wanting to use it mobile with a portapro type headphone, I wouldn't bother but having said that, I do prefer the V2 with its advantage of doubling up as a small home amp. At the price, it's a real bargain and it does drive the K601 quite nicely. (So does the V1 with slightly less 'airiness')
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 15, 2012 13:50:10 GMT
Useful comparison, thanks for the update (keep the V.1 as long as you like). I'm relieved it's not a 'night and day' difference between the two versions (at least, not without plugging in a decent mains PS). I already have a number of mains-powered HAs (Naim, Chiara, Larks/Guanzo and Pro-Ject II) as well as all the portables I've mentioned previously, so I'll not shed tears at not having the V.2!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 13:54:55 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 14:21:44 GMT
Hi Mick,
OK, it seems like there are different versions flying around.
My amp has a Burr-Brown Texas Instruments OPA2134 dual op-amp.
The LM4562 is also a Burr Brown chip I think. I'm not sure what's in John's. I didn't realise he was playing around with op amps as well, so that could account for the slight difference I hear between John's and mine. (Although some think all op amps are much of a muchness, I know)
Checking the specs of yours, it's virtually identical except for the opamp and Rubycon power output caps.
I wonder whether he's still selling what I'm calling the V1? (John's version. The differences are quite subtle, but they are there with a slight improvement in the clarity stakes.
However, given the headphones that many may use this type of thing with, I doubt if they'd detect the differences.
I am very pleased with the version that I have if I'm honest. The sound is way above the price level imo. The only thing I wonder about is the quality of the sockets. I noticed that John's is a bit 'stiff' when you push the headphone in and that can sometimes be the sockets wearing.
I would imagine that it would be very nice with your GS1000, Mick. I tried it with the Grado 125i and it's really quite nice but my K601 sounds terrific from it. That really surprised me!! (a CMoy?)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 15:07:19 GMT
Ian,
I will take a photo of the inside of mine later and upload it, and yes drives the PS1000`s a treat.
Mick.
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 15, 2012 15:26:22 GMT
Zigis has always sold that version of the portable HA, designed for (the more upmarket?) eBay Germany ("German Hi-Fi Forum PacK"), but he also ostensibly lists the Mk.1 version (albeit priced in Euros and therefore more expensive). However, I suspect that that one, too, will be the Mk.2 version that Ian's got. (Tragbar Kopfhörerverstärker = portable headphone amplifier) |
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 15, 2012 15:30:39 GMT
The only thing I wonder about is the quality of the sockets. I noticed that John's is a bit 'stiff' when you push the headphone in and that can sometimes be the sockets wearing. Putting all inuendo aside, I can report that the sockets have always been like that, especially the input jack. I assume Zigis is having to compromise to turn them out at that (very reduced) price and so maybe the quality of the jacks isn't all it could be... |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 18:47:26 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 19:53:36 GMT
Pretty basic inside even to my untrained eye, but it sure works just fine.    Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 20:06:06 GMT
They are basic aren't they? I see you have a metal tower in there too!! STill if it sounds ok, that's the main thing.  Maybe a nice uncomplex amp is a good thing? I can't believe just how good these CMoys sound. The only negative I've noticed (but this may be more to do with the supply) is that if I use my Senn noise cancelling headphones, I get quite a buzz from it when it's plugged in and if I touch the player, it goes - so there's an earthing thing going on. (Yet again!!)  It doesn't do it with normal headphones. It may be more to do with the cheap power supply I'm using too though. On the battery - dead silent. Makes you wonder. Get a nice fancy box and stick that little circuit board inside - I bet no-one would notice!! Lovely little home amp. It's embarrassingly close to some of my better amps - I just hope there's some kind of cross talk or distortion that I can't hear to justify the price of my other gear!!!!!  |
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 15, 2012 21:03:19 GMT
Ian
If you want to pop the lid on my V.1 and post some snaps of the internals, as Mick has done, feel free. (Or I'll do it when you send it back.)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 21:43:35 GMT
OK John, thanks.   Not a massive difference. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2012 22:08:23 GMT
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 15, 2012 22:09:51 GMT
Well done, that was quick!
I can't see, looking at those pictures of my V.1, what caps Zigis has removed from the signal path (the eBay listing for the V.2 states: "DC coupled, no caps in signal path"), assuming the two big ones by the op-amp are part of the power supply, unless it's the ones that are near the volume pot (white in mine and blue in Mick's).
Time to get your camera out again, Ian, and show us yours with the lid off!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 9:51:00 GMT
This is the version that I have:   Basically the same - different layout. Not sure what the 'taking caps out of signal path' means. Maybe I'm hearing different op amp? Looks like it's best to go for whichever is cheapest eh? John, pm your address and I'll send yours back to you. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 10:18:25 GMT
There appears to be quiet a few differences between your PCB and mine and Johns Ian, interesting, perhaps confirms an upgrade has taken place, and by your account certainly seems a worthwhile one.
Mick.
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 16, 2012 10:47:56 GMT
And those caps near the volume control (white in mine, blue in Mick's) HAVE disappeared, just like the man said!
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Post by mrarroyo on Feb 16, 2012 11:23:25 GMT
The external PSU is only to power the amp, correct? In other words it does not charge the internal battery?
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Post by JohnnyBlue on Feb 16, 2012 11:42:29 GMT
Looking at the wiring of Mick's, I'd say that it is only to power the amp, and does not provide a charging circuit (and I'm sure Zigis would've mentioned it if it applied to the updated Mk.2 version).
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 12:23:47 GMT
And those caps near the volume control (white in mine, blue in Mick's) HAVE disappeared, just like the man said! Oh yes .... sorry. I'm blind!!!! I wondered why mine sounded different and thought perhaps I was just detecting a different op amp!! Miguel, no charging circuit unfortunately. Streets ahead of pocket amp and more powerful. Crystal, 'hear through' sound. So surprising for a little CMoy. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 13:14:37 GMT
The external PSU is only to power the amp, correct? In other words it does not charge the internal battery? Correct Miguel. Mick. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2012 14:15:58 GMT
Differences between old version and newer version.
input coupling caps are taken out.
positive: less parts, less noise (as the input resistance is smaller)
negative: DC on the input will be amplified and can silently destroy headphones if a DC is present.
This will manifest itself in a scratchy pot b.t.w. so there is a 'check' possibility for DC.
Personally I wouldn't want the caps out of this circuit as there is no protection whatsoever.
PCB now double sided and has a groundplane.
It also has provisions for a basic constant current charging circuit.
Different opamp.
The output power is limited by the rail splitter and is asymmetric.
This charge circuit isn't installed because:
a: he will make a rechargeable version later for a higher price (parts + rechargeable battery).
b: he found out that a constant current may damage rechargeables or could blow normal batteries if used and 'charged' so ditched it
c: the circuit got too hot on 30V DC input so ditched the idea.
The amp itself is the most basic C'Moy there is.
The used rail splitter circuit TLE2426 has avantages and disadvantages.
I intend to post schematics of both versions in the future.
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It doesn't do it with normal headphones.
