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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2013 10:22:39 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 28, 2013 11:02:39 GMT
They are voskhod valves made in Kaluga, Russia. The 6N23P is equivalent to a 6DJ8 / ECC88 and 6N23P-EB is equivalent to 6922 / E88CC. Nice valves
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2013 13:18:51 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2013 11:17:20 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 31, 2013 19:48:22 GMT
Right, I didn't know about the 6N23P-EB. Are these Voskhod tubes still manufactured or NOS? NOS. I have a couple of thousand of them, all from factory sealed cartons, so you can be assured you'll get "genuine" NOS if you order from me
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 31, 2013 19:57:25 GMT
A short aside: got a couple of Ukrainian NOS 6N3P tubes manufactured by the October Vinnitsa plant from a vendor in Taiwan. The logo on the tube seems to be the right one: But the logo on the box is from Chinese Shuguang: Could be a coincidence, the seller using stock boxes, but China faking Soviet tubes? Mindboggling. The tubes are for another amp, not the G3. I CERTAINLY wouldn't buy from Taiwan when you can secure FIFTY direct from the Ukraine for peanuts www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-pcs-NOS-6N3P-6CC42-2C51-396A-6385-Same-box-same-series-/111112723806?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item19ded59d5e#ht_1658wt_1399 These are all from the same factory box / same date codes. I have experience of this seller and he is genuine. The Taiwan valves (tubes) may be the genuine article BUT they are way overpriced....... Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 31, 2013 20:34:16 GMT
When buying more than one valve online always ask the seller if the date codes are the same, are they from the same batch etc. If you are buying 100 x 6N3P (for example) then you've got a better chance of them being 100% genuine NOS if the seller says they are all the same date code. The "rogues" will sell you 100 random valves, that are possibly knackered, and call them "NOS"....... look at it this way, what's the chance of 100 valves, with the same date code, being pulled from defunct equipment? Very rare! I don't know of any piece of equipment that requires 100 valves (of the same value)...... you can, generally, trust the guy who is selling "100 from the same batch / same date codes" over the guy who is selling "100 with assorted date codes". A few of these ebay sellers sell "pulls" and claim they are "NOS".... a "pull" is a valve that has been removed from a defunkt piece of equipment..... The unscrupulous seller sells these as "NOS" where he should be selling them as "removed from a previously working item / not sure of their service history / not even sure if they test good". One ebayer, who has been getting away with it for years is "delax777mechanics ".... he has a 99.9% feedback rating yet he sells "pulls".... the buying public don't have access to test equipment and seem quite happy with the half dead valves he is selling..... he will sell you a bunch of random valves and claim they are "NOS"..... yeh, "Nasty old shite" that he has removed from a rusting Russian tank somewhere in deepest Russia If you are buying more than one ALWAYS ask the seller about the date codes...... If they are selling 1,000 of them and claiming they are genuine NOS then one would assume they are all from the same batch. Another thing to look at are the pins.... if there's a couple of mm discolouration on the pin (where pin meets glass) it's a sure fire sign that the valves have been pulled out of working / defunkt circuits) Oxidisation will be evident..... the part of the pin has lived in the socket will be a different colour to the part that has been exposed to the elements Plenty of tell tale signs that you can look out for. Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 31, 2013 20:44:13 GMT
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 31, 2013 20:50:24 GMT
Whoops.... seems somebody bought them! I really must stop listening to myself
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2013 21:54:25 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2013 12:39:32 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2013 14:30:30 GMT
That's an elegant solution, well done.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2013 8:36:01 GMT
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Post by tacoboy on Oct 4, 2013 18:27:01 GMT
How is the reliability been with the indeed G3?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2013 18:53:39 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 14, 2013 10:20:28 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 20:55:21 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 21:36:08 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2013 21:47:01 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2013 0:38:19 GMT
I don't doubt that Frans' amp is a good choice. So what's the plate voltage of the Ember? IIRC, it's a far more sensible +48V Alex
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Post by Deleted on Dec 20, 2013 0:41:00 GMT
I don't doubt that Frans' amp is a good choice. So what's the plate voltage of the Ember? IIRC, it's a far more sensible +48V From my understanding . the kit is also very well put together. If I wasn't a Solid State person, I would opt for proven and reliable designs like these. Alex
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Post by rikukh3 on Jan 15, 2014 18:47:25 GMT
My Indeed G3 just arrived and it's sounds fantastic! I did few mods: replaced blue led with 2.2K resistor, replaced IRF510 mosfets with Fairchild IRL530A and set bias to 13.5v. But now I noticed that heater voltage is 6.9v on both 4 and 5 pins instead of 6.3v... Should I be worried or it's completely normal? My tube is Electro-Harmonix 12AU7A/ECC82EH.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2014 23:22:47 GMT
My Indeed G3 just arrived and it's sounds fantastic! I did few mods: replaced blue led with 2.2K resistor, replaced IRF510 mosfets with Fairchild IRL530A and set bias to 13.5v. But now I noticed that heater voltage is 6.9v on both 4 and 5 pins instead of 6.3v... Should I be worried or it's completely normal? My tube is Electro-Harmonix 12AU7A/ECC82EH. I would expect that a little less than 10% increase in heater voltage would only shorten the life expectancy of the tube, but cause no other problems. Nevertheless, if it was me, I would try to find a way to reduce the heater voltage to closer to it's nominal rating. Alex
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Post by rikukh3 on Feb 2, 2014 22:32:04 GMT
Just solved heater over-voltage issue with my G3, so I share it here: replacing R6 and R16 resistors (6.8ohm) with 8.07ohm (8.2ohm + 510ohm in parallel) gives perfect 6.30v heater voltage with my tube. With different tube brands heater voltage is slightly different, so I suggest playing with second bigger resistor in parallel (510 ohm in my case).. something between 100ohm-1000ohm.
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Post by recepky on May 19, 2014 17:42:38 GMT
hi everybody I am in trouble with this device. Trouble begins with the PSU, blown suddenly while I was listening music through my speakers, (I generally use g3 as a tube preamp/buffer - at 3th volume step) after that I started to use 19 volt 3.4 amper notebook adapter... everything was beatifull than I started to tube rolling, bought 12au7 RCA and HITACHI tube, and continue enjoying music. several weeks later very loud crackling and popping sounds started to come from g3. I thought this was because tube, I switched to hitachi 12au7 tube. Nothing changed. when I look beneath the pcb red led was blinking with cracking noise. I thought this was a socket issue because when I was touching the tube noise was going away. so I desolder the socket and resolder with high quality solder. While this little amp playing dirty with me, indeed hifilab send me new psu. I plugged it in and nothing changed. red led not lighting anymore. Plus only rigth channel is working and I have to turn the volume waaaay up to hear anything. headphone amp section is another type of trouble, both channels working there but left and right channels sounds from both channels. =))) what is going on and what should I do ? any thougths
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