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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 19, 2011 11:54:23 GMT
 Blimey  erm..... "roll" the stuff into a big ball.... work it in your fingers until it is warm and you have a nice "ball" the size of a cherry tomato... place this ball on top of the capacitor and press down. Next, wrap some of the strips AROUND the body of the capacitor. Mike. |
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Post by dejanm on Jul 19, 2011 13:26:58 GMT
Mike,
I will do that ... But this wraping around the caps .... is it really a good idea ? I mean, the electrolytics do get warm. Their capacitance changes with temperature. Wraping the rubber around the cap could increase their temperature, could it ?
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Jul 20, 2011 0:47:53 GMT
I would think the "floating" auricaps and blackgates would benefit from the reduced vibration.
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XTRProf
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Post by XTRProf on Jul 21, 2011 4:28:01 GMT
Wow, external damped E-Caps. Really first time seeing this. If you want electronic resonance damping for e-caps, might as well do a super e-cap configuration for internal damping. More sound change than damping externally.  |
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Post by dejanm on Jul 27, 2011 14:48:37 GMT
I would think the "floating" auricaps and blackgates would benefit from the reduced vibration. This is what I just did (by the way, I find your remark reasonable). So I put a bit of this rubber around the legs of Auricaps and BGs ... This is how it looks like:  It is very hard though to say whether there are some changes in sound. It may be that the bass is a bit better defined ... but it is really very subtle difference - if any at all ... |
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rowuk
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Post by rowuk on Jul 27, 2011 17:14:03 GMT
Ummmmm,
the part of the cap designed as a pressure valve to release before they explode is the top. That is also why there are grooves there. Isn't there a better way to damp without potential danger (like put the caps in a sandbox......)?
Actually you could put most of an amp in a sand filled enclosure. Only the poti and connectors need to be external.
Sand works really well with crossovers for speakers too!
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Post by PinkFloyd on Jul 27, 2011 21:33:41 GMT
Ummmmm, the part of the cap designed as a pressure valve to release before they explode is the top. That is also why there are grooves there. Isn't there a better way to damp without potential danger (like put the caps in a sandbox......)? Actually you could put most of an amp in a sand filled enclosure. Only the poti and connectors need to be external. Sand works really well with crossovers for speakers too! The cap will NOT explode if you observe correct orientation...... I will show you how to damp a correctly fitted cap next time I have a camera next to me. |
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Post by dejanm on Jul 29, 2011 9:11:52 GMT
I am thinking now more in direction of damping PCB itself (to reduce vibrations of PCB itself); transformer and enclosure.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2011 10:56:05 GMT
Have you ever tapped on a PCB while it was on and listened (with no signal on the input) to the output signal ?
I do this for fault finding in defective audiogear (brought in for repairs) when looking for bad contacts.
IF you hear something in the headphones you can bet your life there is a bad contact somewhere.
IF you hear nothing at all (even tapping on caps directly) everything works O.K., even if you ram on it forcefully (don't recommend this if you don't know which part can handle what obuse)
Ofcoarse when you tap with a magnetic screwdriver on an inductor you might hear that because voltages are induced.
If you tap on a vacuum tube you WILL hear something.
That's why dampers exist for tubes.
When mechanical feedback is present (live performances of bands e.t.c.) these help a bit.
In all my life I have never met a capacitor, semiconductor, resistor or PCB that was sensitive to mechanical noise or vibrations... EVER... unless it was defective.
So HOW it can influence sound by damping vibrations (as they do NOT react to vibrations) is beyond me.
ofcourse in the subjective realm anything is possible.
Yes... mechanical things such as CD drives, vinyl cartridges, output transformers, microphones, loudspeakers e.t.c. are excluded.
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Post by dejanm on Jul 29, 2011 11:23:08 GMT
To be honest, at the moment I do not have any problems with PCB ... and enclosure is not there yet :-) Transformer is also not a problem because it is already enclosed in a plastic case.
My thinking was rather to damp the spots where the screws are and to try to isolate the parts (transformer, PCB, etc.) from enlosure vibrations ... Again, I ma not sure that it will bring much concerning sound reproduction but simply to decouple things mechanically as much as possible from each other. Somehow, that seems to make sense for me ..
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2011 12:15:37 GMT
Do you intend to mount it in a mechanically vibrant surrounding such as a car, boat, in a disco or on live stage or perhaps in an active speaker ?
If it is for home use I have never experienced ratteling parts or casing.
Fortunately there are no earthquakes too where I live...
The only 'vibrating' thing would be the transformer.
Also encased transformers can emit a mechanical hum, be it probably smaller than without it being encased.
If you isolate the trafo mechanically there should be no hum emitting from the casing audibly.
That is why usually there is a foam disc supplied with it.
I see no reason to mount a PCB on dampers as well but ofcourse in the 'it cannot hurt' mode it... errrmmm... won't hurt..
Damping can be a good thing, IMO... you only have to damp that what is needed.
Most electronic parts and PCB's are insensitive to vibrations.
Bolts and nuts you can secure with laquer.
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FauDrei
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Post by FauDrei on Sept 24, 2011 23:17:05 GMT
Mundorf AGs, Caddocks, Blackgates, V-Caps... you are not joking with your implementations.
Any conclusions on your cap damping test?
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Post by dejanm on Sept 25, 2011 8:13:19 GMT
Nothing really to talk about ... to be honest.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 25, 2011 9:24:24 GMT
Maybe "damping the listener" would be a more exciting thread... the official "comfy chair" thread..... Are you properly damped?
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Sept 25, 2011 10:03:52 GMT
Have you ever tapped on a PCB while it was on and listened (with no signal on the input) to the output signal ? I do this for fault finding in defective audiogear (brought in for repairs) when looking for bad contacts. IF you hear something in the headphones you can bet your life there is a bad contact somewhere. IF you hear nothing at all (even tapping on caps directly) everything works O.K., even if you ram on it forcefully (don't recommend this if you don't know which part can handle what obuse) Ofcoarse when you tap with a magnetic screwdriver on an inductor you might hear that because voltages are induced. If you tap on a vacuum tube you WILL hear something. That's why dampers exist for tubes. When mechanical feedback is present (live performances of bands e.t.c.) these help a bit. In all my life I have never met a capacitor, semiconductor, resistor or PCB that was sensitive to mechanical noise or vibrations... EVER... unless it was defective. So HOW it can influence sound by damping vibrations (as they do NOT react to vibrations) is beyond me. ofcourse in the subjective realm anything is possible. Yes... mechanical things such as CD drives, vinyl cartridges, output transformers, microphones, loudspeakers e.t.c. are excluded. The trick with tapping the PCB (when on) to find faults seems interesting. Perhaps this could help me in the future if I have to find a fault. I just can't take approaches serious that take rope caulk or other stuff and smear that on all electronic components of a CD player. Exactly the mechanic parts are NOT damped then and it makes absolutely no sense on the electronic parts, sometimes the decreased heat dissipation after such a procedure could be even a problem. Maybe it would be a better idea to dampen the CD mechanism itself inside the housing, just like harddrives are damped in computer cases (which are mounted with rubber parts between them and the drive cage). This would also reduce the need to dampen the surface on which the CD player stands. Are there any add-on tube dampers around that could be used (for instance) with the Project Sunrise or one of the X-Can amps? Maybe you should ask Alex...  If the components would be sensitive to vibrations, then EVERY portable audio player would have a serious problem. |
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Sept 25, 2011 10:06:33 GMT
Maybe "damping the listener" would be a more exciting thread... the official "comfy chair" thread..... Are you properly damped? A sedative would do the job. I wonder if "Z" also could be "dampened". |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Sept 25, 2011 11:08:55 GMT
Maybe "damping the listener" would be a more exciting thread... the official "comfy chair" thread..... Are you properly damped? A sedative would do the job. I wonder if "Z" also could be "dampened". I think someone has already tried damping him, early in life, with a sledgehammer blow to the back of the head  |
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elysion
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Post by elysion on Sept 25, 2011 16:00:12 GMT
We should try rope caulk for "Z". Afterwards a few additional feathers on top. Finished. |
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Sept 25, 2011 21:17:10 GMT
Maybe "damping the listener" would be a more exciting thread... the official "comfy chair" thread..... Are you properly damped? A sedative would do the job. I wonder if "Z" also could be "dampened". |
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