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Post by puffin on Aug 4, 2010 20:43:17 GMT
Brilliant. Thanks.
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jonclancy
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Post by jonclancy on Aug 4, 2010 22:28:48 GMT
The board on the top of the 3 has no resistors. Is there a reason? Resistance is futile...  |
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FritzS
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Post by FritzS on Aug 5, 2010 3:50:51 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2010 5:57:04 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2010 11:43:57 GMT
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Will
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Post by Will on Aug 5, 2010 13:28:53 GMT
The one thing that the pcb Freidrich linked to has in favour of it is that you can install larger heat sinks, which is useful if you have a heavier circuit load connected, and it can also be built as a variable supply . I suppose you can also build it with 'nice shiny components' from the start as well.
Mind you, the value in those jaycar kits is amazing.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 5, 2010 14:44:59 GMT
Very nice and professional - but for what you use three JLH Ripple Eater? Friedrich In a DAC for example, you could have a couple for +-15V for the analogue area, and +5V for the digital area. If you look closely at the photo, you will see that the bottom JLH is a different polarity version to the top 2 . Alex Yes, you can see the two capacitors turned the other way..... |
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Will
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Post by Will on Aug 5, 2010 17:33:29 GMT
I thought that Alex had spotted the +ve/-ve marking at the bottom right hand of the board, but yes, the caps give it away as well.
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Post by Dickybottle on Aug 8, 2010 8:10:31 GMT
Just a quick question - But first a bit of background. I am using Panasonic FM 2200uF 10V caps for C4 at present, but I also have a few Nichicon UPW 4700uF 10V. However, the Nichicon's are quite fat and two of them together impinge on the adjacent TO220 and cap C5. So, finally to the question(s)  - Could I use one of each capacitor in C4 - ie. a 2200 in C4A and a 4700 in C4B? Is there likely to be any sonic gain in doing this or is it not worth the effort? Cheers - Ken |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 8:21:13 GMT
Just a quick question - But first a bit of background. I am using Panasonic FM 2200uF 10V caps for C4 at present, but I also have a few Nichicon UPW 4700uF 10V. However, the Nichicon's are quite fat and two of them together impinge on the adjacent TO220 and cap C5. So, finally to the question(s) - Could I use one of each capacitor in C4 - ie. a 2200 in C4A and a 4700 in C4B? Is there likely to be any sonic gain in doing this or is it not worth the effort? Cheers - Ken Ken I haven't tried either of those capacitors in the JLH. There have been many reports to indicate that the Suntans are more neutral sounding than the big brand Audio type electros, which seem to have a "house" flavour. Nevertheless, there is no reason why you shouldn't try what you are suggesting. Alex |
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Post by Dickybottle on Aug 8, 2010 8:41:41 GMT
OK, thanks for that Alex - I'll give it a try. Typically for me - I ordered the SCHA kit without thinking about what else I could order from Jaycar at the same time  Anyhow - It could turn out to be an interesting combination. Would you say the Panasonics and Nichicons need a similar forming period to the Suntans? Ken |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2010 9:03:41 GMT
Ken
Probably not. I understand that the Panasonic FC don't require a large settling down period.
Alex
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 8, 2010 10:19:36 GMT
The ones you sent arrived Jon, thank you so much I will probably use a couple with this headphone amp I will be building shortly... looks pretty decent for the money and with a ripple eater could be the dog's gonads  |
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Aug 8, 2010 14:12:26 GMT
Mike, did you ever build the Millet Max headphone hybrid amp? The one I sent you the board for?
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jonclancy
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Post by jonclancy on Aug 8, 2010 16:47:13 GMT
The ones you sent arrived Jon, thank you so much I will probably use a couple with this headphone amp I will be building shortly... looks pretty decent for the money and with a ripple eater could be the dog's gonads Pleasure, Mike! Cheers Jon BTW, as Alex says, the Panny FCs are rock solid in the JLH RE from the outset. I haven't had the time to do a listening test against the Suntans, but will do. |
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Post by Dickybottle on Aug 8, 2010 17:22:05 GMT
The ones you sent arrived Jon, thank you so much I will probably use a couple with this headphone amp I will be building shortly... looks pretty decent for the money and with a ripple eater could be the dog's gonads It has to be worth the asking price for the parts alone, Mike. But what's the mounting of the volume pot all about?  - I hope the circuit design is better than the PCB layout.  I'll still be following your findings with interest though Ken |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 8, 2010 18:59:49 GMT
The ones you sent arrived Jon, thank you so much I will probably use a couple with this headphone amp I will be building shortly... looks pretty decent for the money and with a ripple eater could be the dog's gonads It has to be worth the asking price for the parts alone, Mike. But what's the mounting of the volume pot all about? - I hope the circuit design is better than the PCB layout. I'll still be following your findings with interest though Ken It's actually quite logical Ken, the pot being very close to the inputs....  # It means using a coupler and extension rod but that's not really a big deal. Quite a lot of designers position the pot close to the inputs and use an extension rod.... IMO, for the couple of extra inches it would have taken to mount the pot at the board edge I don't see any real benefit but for large boards then, yes, there is method in the madness mounting the pot close to the inputs. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 8, 2010 20:51:54 GMT
Sorry for hijacking the thread Jon.... anybody wanting to discuss the kit amp with the funky pot location can discuss here....... I've been busy and have only just this minute studied the JLH ripple eater boards in full.... I must say Jon, you've done a FANTASTIC job.... superb quality PCB's and easy to follow, concise, instructions.... absolutely first class in every respect I will populate my boards soon and implement them in "known" scenarios..... I am already confident enough to say "I won't be disappointed" just from studying the topology / quality of boards.... These will ROCK big time! Mike. |
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jonclancy
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Post by jonclancy on Aug 9, 2010 23:51:12 GMT
Thanks Mike, but the hard work was done by Alex and Will!! The manual was inspired by Carl Livett's excellent effort with the HackerNap project over at PFM. I've modded the terminal connector model to have a 1mm hole - just to improve on a couple of minor points with this edition. (The other glitches I could see are the (C) sign on the back not working, the POS / NEG silkscreen script being moved and larger than needs be, and finally, the silkscreen title should cover the top of the copper script on the front. More subtle that way...... Cheers Jon |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Aug 10, 2010 21:26:43 GMT
Mike, did you ever build the Millet Max headphone hybrid amp? The one I sent you the board for? Hi Miguel, In a word, NO. It's sitting in a drawer somewhere..... I just couldn't be arsed sourcing all the parts for it..... I'll send it back to you or, if you know someone who wants one I'll send it to them. All the best, Mike. |
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mrarroyo
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Post by mrarroyo on Aug 10, 2010 22:35:31 GMT
Keep it, I bought like 3 additional boards! Have not built a single one either. I have listened to units built by others and they sound mighty good.
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Post by Dickybottle on Aug 11, 2010 8:31:53 GMT
I've modded the terminal connector model to have a 1mm hole - just to improve on a couple of minor points with this edition. Cheers Jon Hi Jon, For what it's worth, I for one am quite happy with the holes as they are - I was considering soldering the in and out wires direct to the JLH board, and the holes are large enough to allow some quite hefty wire. Screw terminals are fine but the lower board screws are difficult to access when the boards are stacked. Ken |
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Post by puffin on Aug 12, 2010 18:53:55 GMT
I haven't seen much about what people think of the effect of adding these to a PS.
I built my first today and have inserted between PS and Beresford. Initial imprssions are very favourable. It seems that the background is much quieter and as a result you can hear more fine detail. Certainly seems to clean the PS up a treat.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2010 22:54:37 GMT
I haven't seen much about what people think of the effect of adding these to a PS. I built my first today and have inserted between PS and Beresford. Initial imprssions are very favourable. It seems that the background is much quieter and as a result you can hear more fine detail. Certainly seems to clean the PS up a treat. Hi Puffin I doubt that the majority of the people involved in Jon's GB have sourced all the components yet. What you have reported is in line with many reports in the Jaycar (SC HA) thread and a couple of other threads in DIY area of RG. You should also notice an improvement at the low end, as well as a small improvement in channel separation in many cases. Alex |
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jonclancy
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Post by jonclancy on Aug 24, 2010 22:07:41 GMT
Hi All, Has anyone not recieved their boards, please? I admit to one admin cock-up that has resulted in one order not being processed - Sorry Nicola!  I'm dealing with that - and trying to get PayPal to unlock my account, as they seem to think I am a charitable organisation. I am NOT HAPPY!  Cheers Jon |
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- Could I use one of each capacitor in C4 - ie. a 2200 in C4A and a 4700 in C4B? Is there likely to be any sonic gain in doing this or is it not worth the effort?
- I hope the circuit design is better than the PCB layout. 
I'll still be following your findings with interest though 
