Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2016 22:02:39 GMT
Hello. Are all those upgrades suitable for Bravo V3 (equalizer version)? Can I switch the IRF630 to IRF510 on it? Thanks. I doubt that too many members would have this version, let alone a correct schematic to check. Unless this one has a vastly improved thermal design, it is likely to fail, like so many others, just after 12 months of regular use. My suggestion , if you feel that it is in need of audible improvement, is to sell it at a loss, and investigate the range of WELL designed hybrid amplifiers and kits available from U.S.A. supplier Jeremy. They were all designed by well respected E.E. Frans de Grunter from The Netherlands.
You can Google the rest / direct link removed. Pinkie. |
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Post by knottydreadbr on May 2, 2016 10:33:36 GMT
Hello. Are all those upgrades suitable for Bravo V3 (equalizer version)? Can I switch the IRF630 to IRF510 on it? Thanks. I doubt that too many members would have this version, let alone a correct schematic to check. Unless this one has a vastly improved thermal design, it is likely to fail, like so many others, just after 12 months of regular use. My suggestion , if you feel that it is in need of audible improvement, is to sell it at a loss, and investigate the range of WELL designed hybrid amplifiers and kits available from U.S.A. supplier Jeremy. They were all designed by well respected E.E. Frans de Grunter from The Netherlands.
You can Google the rest / direct link removed. Pinkie. Thanks. I found out a especific thread in this board. I will try somethings on this V3 and see what I can get. Further I will buy a nice kit like you stated. |
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Post by nighthawk on Dec 12, 2016 10:13:06 GMT
Hey guys,
I am planning to mod my V2 and I would like to ask which mods are essential?
1. Changing mosfets from IRF630 to IRL510 (btw is IRL530 better??)
2. Tube swap (I already did that)
3. Crosstalk mod
4. Cap change mod
6. Changing 3k resistors with 5k trims
Anything else ?
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Post by tripwr1964 on Dec 24, 2016 13:03:44 GMT
got my v2 yesterday for my computer/desktop system.
feeding with raspberry pi/dac+, volumio, and grado sr60's (so nothing fancy).
changing nothing (not even the 12au7 it came with), i was completely impressed! i thought i'd hate it and have to do all these mods to even listen to it. but no.
this little set up is right up there with my decware csp3 and hd650's. i did back to back, was amazed!
anyway - still going to mod it! lol. that's what i bought it for too (to play with it a bit).
so i have all the parts coming from mouser to start.
question:
where is a good source for these little heat sinks? not having any luck finding any.
this little baby gets pretty hot as it... thinking i'll need to bigger heat sinks soon.
thks tim
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Post by tripwr1964 on Dec 24, 2016 13:16:39 GMT
oh and i put a nos cifte... nice little step in the right direction.
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eli
<100
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Post by eli on Feb 10, 2017 8:08:40 GMT
Hi,
Question: does someone have the schematics in a file format I can load into a circuit simulator and/or editor?
I bought the V2, and want to make some of the mods, but it can be cool to actually simulate the expected effect...
Thanks,
Eli
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Post by PinkFloyd on Feb 10, 2017 11:39:46 GMT
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Post by jack on Oct 9, 2017 17:24:30 GMT
Hi,
I have a Bravo Audio v2 unmodified.
Now it has just turned on and without signal the right channel mosfet immediately becomes very hot, much warmer than the left one.
The right channel voltage regulator remains normally warm but after a few minutes it also becomes very hot.
In the headphones, in both channels, there is a background noise that grows as the temperature rises.
Fearing the fusion I turn off the amplifier.
If I apply the signal to the input, the music can be heard on the two channels until it is covered by the noise.
If I turn the amplifier off and cool it resumes to work but after a few minutes repeats the problem.
Which component can cause this problem?
The MOSFET, the voltage regulator or some other?
The tube is certainly good, the measured bias voltages are correct.
Left channel components always reach a normal temperature in operation.
Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 28, 2017 12:32:18 GMT
Hi, I just got a Bravo Ocean and would like to replace the IRF630 MOSFETs with IRL530 ones. Problem is I can only find IRL530N MOSFETS. Does anyone know if they will work? I'm hoping they're just an updated version but the specs are the same. Thanks for your advice. They will be fine, no probs  Best regards, Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 29, 2017 13:37:20 GMT
Hi, I do have one more question. Can I replace the IRF630 MOSFETs with IRL530s and not worry about overheating? Is it necessary or just optional to do other mods to deal with the increased heat? Thanks in advance! I've forgotten quite a lot about this amp but Frans (Solderdude) said: "You should try to find IRL510 instead of IRF510 the IRF530N doesn't do a better job the IRF630 When using IRL the LM317's get a lot hotter, but the crosstalk and distortion will be much better." Read more: rockgrotto.proboards.com/thread/5297?page=2#ixzz4wu6iWxCMI would definitely go with what Frans said, he's a genius with electronics and has designed many good amps. Mike. |
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 29, 2017 13:46:49 GMT
I've sent you the schematic which outlines the Bravo ocean mods.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 29, 2017 19:37:23 GMT
It's the LM317's that get hotter when using the IRL, not so much the IRL itself.
Best regards,
Mike.
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Post by PinkFloyd on Oct 30, 2017 11:54:06 GMT
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Post by pdalvares on Jul 2, 2019 19:27:28 GMT
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Post by ronin06 on Aug 2, 2019 1:46:49 GMT
OK, so I noticed the crosstalk... yes it's bad. So I tried oohms crosstalk fix of cutting the two traces and soldering a jumper wire.
On the positive side the amp still works. But the crosstalk does not seem to have been impacted. Think I've taken this little experiement as far as I want to go. Will look for a different HP amp to play with. I still think for the money this is one of the best sounding amps in its' price range.
PS What I did prior to this last mod was to upgrade the power supply cap to 6800uf 35v, changed the output caps to audio grade 1000uf 35v (s/ have done 2200uf), upgraded the mosfets to ILR510, replaced the 3k resistors with 5k trim pots to adj to 13.5v.
I have a feeling either this little amp will travel with me to Asia or wind-up on my daughters desk. :-)
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Post by outdoorguy on Oct 10, 2020 21:48:59 GMT
Bought two of these 12au7 variants several years ago. One died after 4 months. The tube turned white and who knows what else happened The other is still going. Anyhow, decided to resurrect the dead headamp. Replacing the tube did not get it back to life. So, after reading way too many posts on modding and knowing some of these components might need to be replaced anyway, an order was sent to MOuser. IRL530, lm317a, capacitors, trim pots, crosstalk mod, pretty much the standard mods for this bugger.
The mosfets get warm as do the lm317 but the amp remains dead. No red led, no blue led, no filament glow in the tube.
This eliminates most things except the 2n3906 and red led. It's easy enough to figure out which 2n3906 work, but which red led? I have searched the posts and still have not come up with the specs for the red led.
Through Mouser's search engine, I have narrowed the search to Red>3mm>standard through hole> leaving 22 possibilities with varying specs.
Anyone have the specs for the red led?
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