Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2011 11:23:48 GMT
The question is WHY you want to recable it and WHAT you think you will gain ?
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XTRProf
Fully Modded
Pssst ! Got any spare capacitors ?
Posts: 5,689
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Post by XTRProf on Jun 15, 2011 3:35:43 GMT
I wanted to ask for an opinion on which cable to use for recabling and how to do it. I've been looking at LOOPS® A800 on ebay, but they are either too short or too long. The other one I'm looking at is van damme SP-OFC and UP-OFC. AFAIK, SP-OFC is better than UP-OFC? Any other modding ideas are welcome. Actually, depends on what you are looking for. First, you must try your HP for some time first and inventorise what are the weak points that are unacceptable to you. Try to compare it with a highend HP if possible for a better judgement of what is achievable. For cables, you can go for the OCC Copper or Silver. The OCC Copper will be brighter than the normal OFC variant. The OCC Silver will be even more. However, technically, these are the best wires that you can buy but may not suit your taste or solve the weaknesses that you had perceived. Also, putting some kind of fibre in the ear cups can also change the sound to your taste. The best technically will be the sheep wool.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2011 8:18:24 GMT
Measurement wise no differences have been detected between these cables, only in subjective tests (so when NOT compared directly under equal conditions). People seem to hear differences even when only a connector has been replaced. If various 'reviews' are analysed the opinions about cables seem to vary as much as the differences in perceived performances/improvements. IMO changing cables is only interesting when the original cable is defective, too rigid, too microphonic (sensitive to touch which can be heard mechanically) or too short/long. adding wool or dampening materials is only needed if you want to change the sonic signature or damp resonances, and thus alter the original sound to suit your needs. Simply adding or taking out things may not always give improvements. Experiments are needed. peaks and resonances of the driver themselves cannot be corrected easily and when done 'mechanically' you will also always affect parts that you did not intend/wanted to change. I do not intend to let this thread wander of in another pointless cable discussion as it is more a religion then anything else). These can be found in various threads already.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2011 14:07:14 GMT
For (pointless) cable discussions please create a new thread.
Please use this thread for Superlux headphone related topics, pictures of Boobs or funny remarks.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2011 14:18:32 GMT
For (pointless) cable discussions please create a new thread. Please use this thread for Superlux headphone related topics, pictures of Boobs or funny remarks. Especially pictures of boobs, if possible including the structure to which they are attached . Dave
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Post by gritzcolin on Jun 15, 2011 14:51:44 GMT
I want to re-cable to chop off a few feet, and I have a few old headphones with broken cables so I want to know what people prefer. small and flexible is my goal.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2011 17:27:28 GMT
the wire indeed is quite long. I cut them in half and simply mount a new plug on the desired length and make a small extension cord from the excess by soldering on a free socket on the other end.
On my own HD681 I use the cord I salvaged from a 15E skytronics headphone. very thin and supple wire (litze) and low in microphonics. Since I cannot hear differences between the cables (there aren't significant ones also) using these thin wires are very flexible.
thick wiring is not recommended as it usually is quite rigid and microphonic because of this. usually it is only the 'packaging' that is thick (made to impress) the wires themselves are usually thin in order to make it somewhat supple. the difference in capacitance, resistance and inductance is usually very small (I know, I measured it). All HP cables I measured when modding HD681's without any exception were completely flat from 0Hz to 1,000,000 Hz so no drop-off in highs, lows, mids or any specific region which would cause it to sound different (you would need to alter the frequency graph to accomplish this)
Nothing beats handling the actual cables, buying online without feeling the cable can be tricky. The very thin wires of earbuds I do not recommend, they break too easily.
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Post by radchild on Jun 16, 2011 17:42:25 GMT
The question is WHY you want to recable it and WHAT you think you will gain ? I missed this page and whoah...So many posts. The reason I want to recable them is, because I got the impression from THIS thread that it makes them sound better. I am not trying to go off-topic cable discussion, I am just asking a topic related question. The fact that the cable has no shielding is enough of a reason for me to change it so I hope that answers your question. I'll also answer a later question of yours - what the headphones lack, IMO, is mid range. A slight bump there would make me happy so if you have any suggestions (other than SW EQ) they would be quite welcome. P.S. I'm not quite sure about the filter mod, but if I get what I want with it, I'll experiment.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2011 18:24:27 GMT
Shielding is not needed... there really is nothing to shield against with the signal levels in headphones. recabling will not bring out more mids or anything else. What shielding COULD accomplish is the fact that a shield is lower Ohmic than a single return wire which might improve stereo imaging but not the EQ. The same can be accomplished using 4 unshielded wires where the common is only connected in the plug and wiring is completely separated in the headphone itself.
There is not much modding needed for the 668B and most use it as it is. It has more (and better) mids than HD681. using velours pads brings some sonic improvements but not a lot.
making a passive filter that lowers the highs and mids is not possible. You are the first to find the HD668B lacking in the mids. To me they lack low and high extension, just like the SR850.
What are the EQ settings you feel are needed for it to sound like you want it to.
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Post by radchild on Jun 16, 2011 18:31:59 GMT
I find that a slight bump on 1 and 2KHz makes them sound better to me. Maybe this is the case, because I'm used to how my M-Audio Studiophile DX4 speakers sound. They have a slight bump in the mids. That would explain it for me, but not for my colleague. Not sure what he's used to though.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2011 20:03:50 GMT
Alas this cannot be done with a passive filter, so you would have to use equaliser settings of the playback equipment for this.
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Post by galalo on Jun 29, 2011 12:20:58 GMT
Would it be possible to acquire the metal caps and velour earpads from any of the members here? Finding velour earpads in Canada is currently REALLY difficult. I'd also like to purchase the metal caps if anybody has them available.
These are excellent headphones and I'd just like to improve their appearance to match their SQ.
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elysion
Been here a while!
Team Anti M$ AND Facebook.
contra torrentem
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Post by elysion on Jun 29, 2011 18:19:24 GMT
www.akg.com/site/distributoren/powerslave,id,66,nodeid,28,_language,EN.html Soundcraft Canada is the official AKG distributor. I'd ask them for a list of dealers in your region. Alternatively, you could buy them online from USA or Europe. Postage from Europe could be a lot though.
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Post by kgeorgeg7 on Jul 1, 2011 11:36:42 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 1, 2011 12:00:27 GMT
the F has no bass at all and sounds squeeky because of the peaked highs. The HD681 (without suffix) has overblown bass reaching incredably deep but not sounding bloated. It may come across as uncontrolled to some people. The B version is between the 2 and more leaning towards the HD681.
Personally I prefer the HD681 with latest filter (which also adresses the bass) but without the low filters the B version is preferred by some.
It sortof depends on the amount and depth of the bass to choose between the HD681 and HD681B (B has a tad less bass) The F version I would not buy.
IMO the filter mod is a must, you can use it without but sibilance is waiting round the corner. The highs only filter is the same for HD681 and HD681B, both need it.
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Post by kgeorgeg7 on Jul 1, 2011 14:07:08 GMT
Ok, I guess then I will buy the one without the suffix and place the mods for both lows and highs
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natospec
250+
Squeal like a hawg! Yeeehaw!
when in doubt, the simplest and dirtiest fix will do, even if it is twisted wire and tape
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Post by natospec on Jul 6, 2011 10:25:38 GMT
hello all, this will be my first post here, being that I just ordered a pair of these headphones to get a different sound apart from my sennhieser hd 280's. I'm going to filter and cable them right when I get them after a few days of continuous burn on my cmoy(built around a burr brown opa series dual op amp ic by me, all set up for either 9volt portable or 12volt @ 750 mah ac adapter) surprisingly I had all the filter parts already, and I'm probably just going to use a cable that i had for the HD 280's that my dog chewed the top off right next to my headphones. its not cheap cable either so I might as well use it. i might make some ear pads out of one of those bags that crown royal whiskey bottles come in. what kind of foam should I use?-Nate
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natospec
250+
Squeal like a hawg! Yeeehaw!
when in doubt, the simplest and dirtiest fix will do, even if it is twisted wire and tape
Posts: 384
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Post by natospec on Jul 7, 2011 21:50:59 GMT
I can't wait until my headphones arrive sometime next week, I guess I'm just being impatient. with hearing so many good things about these headphones(ordered them before I really did thorough research on them, glad I did good) I'm exited to have a pair of such upgradable cans. such possible sound quality out of such inexpensive headphones really amazes me, reminds me of my grandfathers days, were you could buy good stuff for reasonably little money.
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Post by HaveYouGotItYet? on Jul 11, 2011 13:01:40 GMT
Is it possible to modify a HD681B into a HD681 (for example by removing some foam) or do they have different drivers etc. ?
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natospec
250+
Squeal like a hawg! Yeeehaw!
when in doubt, the simplest and dirtiest fix will do, even if it is twisted wire and tape
Posts: 384
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Post by natospec on Jul 12, 2011 0:18:12 GMT
just got mine. they sure as hell don't sound like i payed $40 for them. my friends think i bought cheep ass shitty headphones I think I'm keeping these to myself... edit: a few hours in. still sound great. havent really experianced much sibalance. seems to sound like they should be 140 if they came in a box
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Post by kgeorgeg7 on Jul 12, 2011 10:57:03 GMT
The headphones just arrived today, so i am beggining making that filter They have nice bass but in highs they don't sound so good. I look forward to listen to them with the filters!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2011 6:53:23 GMT
Is it possible to modify a HD681B into a HD681 (for example by removing some foam) or do they have different drivers etc. ? As far as I can see the drivers are different. I couldn't tell them apart visually side by side even the foam appeared to be the same. a reply I got from Superlux (long ago) suggested the diafragms are different. I don't think you can get more bass extension from the B version but the the foam might alter bass reproduction.
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Post by proid on Jul 17, 2011 11:17:49 GMT
I'm totally a newbie in soldering but i will get a 681 soon and filter mod them. But i want to make a filter box, how to make it? Which parts do i need? And dampen and pence mod do the same thing?
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Post by proid on Jul 21, 2011 14:34:49 GMT
If i dont' have 56ohm and 39ohm resistor, can i use other resistors with different value?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2011 15:04:41 GMT
If i dont' have 56ohm and 39ohm resistor, can i use other resistors with different value? Not without altering the filter characteristics. PM me ...
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