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Post by mattcalf on Oct 23, 2009 9:40:09 GMT
After seeing a few jaycar amps doing the rounds on Head-Fi, mostly among the Australian users I have decided to attempt one myself. More specifically the Sandyk modded version, after reading through this and consulting two people who have personally built it it looks like it'll be alot easier to build the modded version first. I'm just about to make a mouser order for the parts of a Gamma2 DAC (with accompanying Gamma1 Full++ build) so I have compiled the parts I figure I'll need to do the mod. I'd really appreciate if someone could double check if I'm getting all the right parts and quantities I should to complete the mod: AMP: Mouser #: 505-MKS2-4.7/50/10 Desc.: Polyester Film Capacitors (Wima) 4.7uF 50V 10% $3.11 x2 Mouser #: 512-BC547 Desc.: Bipolar Transistors NPN 45V 100mA $0.25 x2 Mouser #: 512-BC557 Desc.: Bipolar Transistors PNP -45V -100mA HFE/800 $0.32 x2 Mouser #: 871-B41828A5107M000 Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 25volts 100uF 6.3x11mm 105deg C $0.111 x2 Mouser #: 757-2SC5171(Q,M) Desc.: Bipolar Transistors NPN 180V 2A Transistor 4 Backordered $0.792 x2 Mouser #: 757-2SA1930(Q,M) Desc.: Bipolar Transistors PNP 180V 2A Transistor $0.792 x2 Mouser #: 660-CFS1/4CT52R4R7J Desc.: Carbon Film Resistors 4.7 OHM 5% 1/4W $0.07 x4 PSU: Mouser #: 505-FKP2470/100/2.5 Desc.: Polypropylene Capacitors 100V 470pF 2.5% $0.528 x 1 Mouser #: 821-SF12 Desc.: Rectifiers 1A 100V $0.222 x4 The 2SC5171 is back ordered and doesn't look like it'll come in for 3 months, any substitutes recommended or places I can source this nationally? The gamma2 build requires a Farnell order and I'll source the LM4562 there. (Is $13.18 a reasonable price?) I live in Cairns so a Jaycar is never far away, and I'm really looking forward to this build. I don't plan to add the JLH psu addition just yet, start off with this and see how I go. From everyone I've communicated with on this subject I have got the same reaction, the Rock Grotto forums are incredibly friendly, productive and fun. Hope I have the same experience! Thanks, Matt.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2009 10:19:39 GMT
Hi Matt At a quick glance Your list looks fine, but is the LM4562 the LM4562HA metal can version ? If not, it's quite expensive. Whereabout's in the land that doesn't have daylight saving are you ? Beware of overseas P and P costs on small orders too. Alex
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Oct 23, 2009 10:32:56 GMT
Alex, by the looks - Matt lives in Cairns ;P Does Robert have any 4562HA's left? Matt - Just so happens I have enough toshibas for a SCHA+JLH build - I originally ordered mine from the States, and they took the better part of 3 months to arrive. I'd given up on them by then so got some from Wes. Happy to send them up to you for whatever the going price is now. I built the modded version directly. (Don't tell Mr Vinen [inside joke]) Didn't like the look of winding those inductors Phil
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 23, 2009 12:25:56 GMT
Gday guys, yep Cairns it is. That'd be swell, I only need the 2SC5171 as I'm going to have a mouser order anyway. (see feedback down the bottom just in case. ) Getting a new Weller Station + the gamma1+2 parts has got me over the $200 threshold for free shipping at Mouser. This is the Farnell product page, I could buy 2 off ebay for the same price but not sure if they'd be fake. Thanks for the quick replies and help guys!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2009 12:50:01 GMT
Matt That IS expensive, and not as good as the metal can version LM4562HA, or LME49720HA (new name. ) Let's see if Robert in Rockhampton has 1 left first.
Alex
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 23, 2009 13:08:04 GMT
Sounds scrumptious, cheers.
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robertkd
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Post by robertkd on Oct 23, 2009 14:01:09 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2009 20:00:31 GMT
MATT I strongly recommend that you send Robert a Private Message. The cost is however double that of what you have quoted from Farnell. Robert is not making any profit when selling these to members. They are premium devices. If you read through the rather long threads, you will find that the general consensus is that the metal can version sounds markedly better than the plastic version, and further improvement is noticed after about 48 hours of use. Alex
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 24, 2009 2:37:16 GMT
PM is sent to Robert. Reading a bit more it looks like a HB5910 is a good solution while still being rather cheap. Sound good?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 24, 2009 2:41:28 GMT
Matt Looks fine. There is plenty of additional info in the "Tweaks " thread.
Alex
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Oct 24, 2009 3:32:15 GMT
Matt - does the job rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=chitchat&action=display&thread=3729&page=13About 3/4 of the way down. If my host would get his act together, then you'd be able to see photos of the completed article. If I didn't have a surveying assignment to do for the rest of the afternoon, I'd throw some up on photobucket or something. Swing me a pm with the current price of the 5171s, and your address, and how many you want and I'll pop them in the post hopefully Tuesday. Phil
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 24, 2009 4:08:30 GMT
PM sent Spirit. Hope the assignment goes quickly.
I'm in the same boat (reason for me not starting this build until December haha).
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Post by Deleted on Oct 24, 2009 5:05:43 GMT
Matt Check Phil's photo at the attached, and note just how close the hot soldering iron is to his little pinkies . ;D
SandyK
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Oct 24, 2009 8:02:49 GMT
My pinkies were alright.... and thankfully so was my mate's carpet ;D
What are you studying Matt?
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 24, 2009 13:55:27 GMT
Still in High School, grade 11 to be exact. So yeah, quite young. Usually keep that underwraps for a bit longer a new forums.
So I'm not really in 'the same boat' but it's relatively full on respectively.
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 30, 2009 8:39:39 GMT
2SC5171's arrived, let me know your bank details and I'll shoot that money off! Thanks again, Matt.
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Oct 30, 2009 9:01:28 GMT
Didn't get my pm? P.S. Grade 11 is a good year. [and a fine age to be ] The first year I should have worked and didn't... straight A's to low B's Best of luck with the build and if you run into any troubles, there are a number of people here only too happy to help. (Mostly Alex ;D)
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 30, 2009 10:23:36 GMT
Haha didn't notice the PMs sorry. Will send payment after basketball tonight (late game). Yeah grade 11 is quite fun, but it's a tad too hectic (with the amount of basketball i play atm) to start the amp now. Will get to on the holidays, not long now. Can't wait and thanks again!
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Post by mattcalf on Oct 30, 2009 12:38:12 GMT
I know everyone was wondering, and yes, we did win basketball Money has been sent, cheers Phil!!
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Oct 31, 2009 2:21:36 GMT
Congrats No worries mate Let us know how you get on.
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Post by mattcalf on Dec 1, 2009 11:07:37 GMT
I've found some cheap stepped attenuators from a reputable seller, however, they are 100k... would it be alright for this amp? Thanks, Matt. (Mod parts arrived the other day, planning to go in Jaycar tomorrow . I received some nice headphones the other day.. can't wait to get this badboy driving them.)
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Spirit
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Post by Spirit on Dec 4, 2009 22:32:16 GMT
I've no idea... guessing Alex missed your post the first time around.
Alex? (or anyone else with who knows ;D)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2009 22:50:04 GMT
Phil Yes, I did miss this post originally. Personally, I would go with 20-25K as a preference, but up to 47K. 100K is more in valve amplifier territory these days. The lower the impedance at the input, as a general rule translates to lower noise and better HF response. Alex
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Post by mattcalf on Dec 9, 2009 15:18:15 GMT
Well after about 7 hours today of solid soldering I think I'm almost done. I dont have lead clippers (specifically) yet so the bottom side of my PCB is crazy, however, through my consistent eyes and fluxing I'm happy with the result. I have two questions: 1. On the PSU, it is documented where the LED + goes, however, where does the LED - go? 2. On the Amp it says to rotate the bipolar transistors if they're changed to Toshiba ones (2SC5171, 2SA1930). Wouldn't this mess up the pin-out (and the direction everything is meant to flow)? The way my build has turned out it doesn't look as though I'll have trouble mounting either way, does it matter? Thanks again for all your help, Matt.
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Will
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Post by Will on Dec 9, 2009 15:48:30 GMT
Hi Matt,
In the SCHA originally, the output transistors are BD139/140, whose pins are (left to right) emitter, collector and base. However, the toshiba devices are different, being base, collector and emitter, meaning that you need to rotate the toshiba devices 180 degrees so that the circuit works normally.
Will
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