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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2009 21:46:18 GMT
The PCB has 2 squares which you see on the picture, on the other side the 'squares' are round, and not square anymore. That indicate minus? But the RCA's are they 'minus' then? I did not understnad your last post.. Yes the caps are big... 5.5cm * 3centimeter.. I might have to unscrew the board just to see where the signal is passing, then I can confirm it. I am sure the sound will be better by directly soldering the output cap leg onto the RCA instead of onto the PCB board again. I will keep the wires on then, so I get that 47kohm resistor. Are you 100% sure of this.... But the current moves from + pole to - pole.... so the way it goes through the Keces is actually from the dac chips through the 'square' +pole and to the -(round marking) pole, and then to the RCA's??? IS that how the current flows? K krisno Your thinking is awfully muddled.  Giving accurate advice without a schematic diagram, or at least, clear DETAILED photos of both top and bottom sides of the PCB, is virtually impossible. I suggest that you post clear, close up and high resolution photos of the area in question. If you have to ask so many questions, perhaps you shouldn't be attempting these modifications? SandyK |
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leo
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Post by leo on Mar 31, 2009 22:39:13 GMT
The PCB has 2 squares which you see on the picture, on the other side the 'squares' are round, and not square anymore. That indicate minus? But the RCA's are they 'minus' then? Take a picture either side of those Tantalum caps and I will tell you which is + and which is - Infact look closely at the actual cap, it maybe marked on the metal body at the side which is +v end. If your hardwiring from pcb to phono sockets, the worse that can happen if you solder the leg into the wrong hole is that there won't be any sound The centre of the phono socket is pos (+) the outer tag is minus I did not understnad your last post.. Thats ok  I'm not the best at explaining things anyway Yes the caps are big... 5.5cm * 3centimeter.. I might have to unscrew the board just to see where the signal is passing, then I can confirm it. if your good with a soldering iron its possible to do it without taking the board out  I am sure the sound will be better by directly soldering the output cap leg onto the RCA instead of onto the PCB board again. I will keep the wires on then, so I get that 47kohm resistor. Are you 100% sure of this.... The only way to know if its better is to try it. If you have a multimeter simply set it to measure ohms, measure the centre of each phono socket to ground, if it reads 47k you'll know for sure its connected But the current moves from + pole to - pole.... so the way it goes through the Keces is actually from the dac chips through the 'square' +pole and to the -(round marking) pole, and then to the RCA's??? IS that how the current flows?K Sort of yes The current on the output of the dac chips is converted to voltage with a low value resistor which goes to ground, the voltage is around half the dacs supply, about 2.5v DC, so that 2.5v DC goes to +v of the cap, the -v of the cap should measure 0v which connects to the centre of the phono sockets Sandyk already explained what the 47k resistors are for |
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Post by krisno on Apr 1, 2009 8:20:35 GMT
 As you see, it has round markings on the side closest to us and square markings toward the 'center'. Meaning the current goes from square marking towards 'round' marking. hehe.... But my question was really. The obbligato film caps, are they all non-polar? Does it matter which way I solder them in? Will it say on it which side is - +? ... if it does, I am supposed to solder the -minus lead of the output cap into the +(square) hole on the PCB? thats it... I won't ask for anything else. K |
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leo
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Post by leo on Apr 1, 2009 23:20:56 GMT
Yes, thats easier to see now, square mark is +v positive and circle end is -v negative
The Obbligato's are non polar so you can fit those in any direction ok
if your very careful you can heat the solder joints up with your soldering iron and pull the tantalum legs out of the pcb from the top.
carefully use a solder sucker to clear the holes and then solder the new caps in
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I'm not the best at explaining things anyway